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Hi Mike -

That's exactly what the button does. I replaced my heater hose last
month along with a couple others. After eight years it, too, was
leaking. FYI - a decent temporary fix, until you can arrange a new
one, is good old duct or electrician's tape. Just wrap it up tight.
Steve

Scott
93 GL

But is this really going to make a difference? Maybe.

And if it does "make a difference" then that difference will simply be that
the electric fans will run more often. It's not going to "make a
difference" in terms of operating temperatures, and the implicit affect on
engine life.

If it were true that the fans on our EVs were marginal (and they surely are
not), and engine cooling therefore required the added ram effects of a belly
pan designed to assist the fans, then your speculation that temps would be
higher without the pan would be true. In that case, absent the pan, the
fans would be running at top speed, the thermostat fully open, and the
engine suffering at higher temps absent the ram effects of the pan, but that
is not the case. I don't have a pan, and my fans cycle on and off just as
they did with the pan installed. My A/C blows very cold, and my fans very
rarely hit the highest speed. My engine operating temperature -- which is
the only thing that matters to the engine -- is no different.

Heat dissipation in our EV is controlled by sensors and fans, and if there
is any collateral effect from aerodynamics it's very marginal, and its only
effect would be to reduce the frequency/duration of the cycling of the
electric fans. At this point we are discussing potential relative fan motor
life, not engine life, which is oblivious to how often the fans cycle.

----------
From: "Donald " <gibbonsnc@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan
Date: Mon, Sep 17, 2001, 9:24 PM


Its not so much the air flow it low or idle speeds, its air flow at
high speeds that the belly pan does its job.

Any car that moves thru the air will develope an high pressure
directly in front of it. If you stick the raditor right there at the
high pressure area you have only done 1/2 the job. In order for there
to air flow there has to be a high pressure and a low pressure area.
The air will rush from high to low. And thats what the belly pan
does, creates a low pressure area in the engine compartment. By not
allowing the air flow to shoot up right at the area just under the
bumper and by delaying the exit of the air till around where the
front axle center line is you maintain low pressure in the engine
compartment.

But is this really going to make a difference? Maybe. When the
thermostat gets fully open any additional air flow will make lower
coolant temps. With the belly pan in place there will be better air
flow.

I was going to try an experiment to prove this with 2 belly pans, one
is intact and the other has a hole that someone added to try and get
better cooling. But one pan is from an automatic and the other is
from a manual... They will not fit interchangably...


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$39.50 for a 2000 EVC pollen filter in SC. You would think they could design
the housing to use a stock filter.

Well, in that case I'll be doing the more time-consuming option. The hose was
$68, and I don't plan on buying another one soon. It would seem to me that
they would sell the screw separate, but they don't.

Mike Hahn
1993 MV5
Mediterranean Blue
130,000 Miles



In a message dated 9/18/2001 9:07:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
mgmccarthy@... writes:

You bleed the system as the very last step in any procedure involving
replacing cooling system components. You can use the little screw on the
high firewall hose -- careful, it's delicate -- or you can run-the
engine-then-top-off-the-overflow-tank numerous times. Either way you need
to get air OUT of the system to prevent air pockets forming

So do I need to bleed it then I replace the hose? I've had a multitude of
coolant problems in the last year, and I don't want to make things any worse.

Mike


In a message dated 9/18/2001 6:56:11 AM Central Daylight Time,
bleggis4@... writes:

That's exactly what the button does. I replaced my heater hose last
month along with a couple others

We returned two weeks before our trip was scheduled to end trip
because it did not feel appropriate to continue. We may go on
another short 1 or 2-week trip early next month.

OVERHEAD STORAGE UNIT
The overhead storage unit worked wonderfully. The concern that it
might block rear visibility was not a problem. We could see the hood
and grill of cars as they approached but you could not see the road-
rage in their driver's eyes [that may be a blessing]. The soft sides
work better than expected. We packed items we used more often toward
the front that were accessible by pulling down the front edge cloth
without tilting the unit. The unit road smoothly and did not sway
from side-to-side even on rough and winding roads. It also did not
get in the way of us using the lower bunk.

The weight of the unit fully loaded was 25 pounds consisting of 6
pairs of Levis, 10 T-shirts, 2 pairs of shorts, 2 sets of sweats and
several other items. We did not take a suitcase on this trip so
going from driving mode to camping mode was as simple as popping the
top and turning the front seats.

It would be nice to only have to undo only one snap to tilt open the
unit instead of the two that currently hold the prototype in the
closed position.

MAP STORAGE
The map storage was a blessing. Not only did it hold our maps and
travel guides but also the cell phone, sunglasses, pens, and several
other items. I think this was the first trip where we did not step
on maps and guides. I guess it will have to set up a vacuum mold to
make a "real" unit sometime this winter.

CLOSET STRAPS AND FALSE BOTTOM
The closet straps should be mounted slightly higher. Some of the
shorter cloths would migrate out from behind the strap. I may place
another strap about 18-inchs higher to retain the cloths both at the
middle and the bottom of their length. We stored bottles of water in
the closet's false bottom along with a few other items. Only once
did we retriever them so they remained out of our way.

UNDER REAR-SEAT STORAGE BOXES
The trapezoidal side box worked will since it's contents were
accessible by raising the rear seat. The rectangular box was not as
convenient because the front cover had to be removed to access its
contents. It was not the removal of the cover that was the problem
but trying to get the darn thing back on. With a new mounting method
for this cover, this problem may resolve itself. We shuffled a few
items the first day out so only items rarely needed remained in this
box.


OUR NEXT PROJECTS
-Closet Doors
I am going to make a 4-panel door for the closet. This will
provide better access to the closet and shelves. Once the closet
door can be opened fully, the shelves can be extended fully toward
the front.

-Norcold 12-volt thermostat.
We managed to freeze several items on our "long-drive" days. I
think it's time I installed the 12-volt thermostat modification.
Also, a refrigerator thermometer may be in order.

Does anybody know whether my 2000 VW GLS can be rigged up to be towed by my
motorhome? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated............

Cheryl Rose
alakay@...

tolerance (n) - Acceptance and open-mindedness to different practices,
attitudes, and cultures; does not necessarily mean agreement with the
differences.

Someone decided to redesign the new WTC. Look at it closely....LOL

Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine

The coach battery doesn't produce 110 AC power, only 12v DC power. In order to get 110 while you aren't plugged into power at a campground or such you need to buy an inverter which converts 12v DC to 110 AC. The size inverter depends on what you will be using and how much current you will be needing.

Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine

Me too....
Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine

Winnebago makes the Camper, Westfalia makes the Weekender.

I think you are referring to the MV Weekender. It is an option
package provided by Westfalia for the MV which includes a Pop-up roof
with a 2-person bed, window screens, a small electric refrigerator,
sliding window curtains and a screen for the rear hatch. Sold in
1993, 1999, 2000, 2001 and 2002.

I have seen no published safety information for the Eurovan more
recent than the crash test data for the 1993 model.

Ron
`97 EVC

--- In ev_update@y..., rvdalton@y... wrote:

My information indicated that Westfalia EVCs (non-Eurobagos) were
made in 93 (a long model year), then not until 1999, and are not

made

today. I called the non-technical people at VW (Customer Service 1-
800-822-8987) and they said the pop top camper was made every year
including 1993, and still made today. Can anyone confirm which

years

the MV Westfalia camper was made? Also, I believe VW used CFC free
refrigerant (R134a) earlier than US manufacturers. Were the 1993

EVs

CFC free?
Also, no air bag EVs were crash tested, does anyone have any safety
information on them? Thanks in advance.

I have been losing water through the heater hose, I bought a replacement, but
I am wondering what is the purpose of the plastic screw in it. This screw was
the source of my leak in the first place. The parts guy at the local VW
dealer said it might be to bleed the air...but he wasn't sure.

Mike Hahn
1993 MV5
Mediterranean Blue
130,000 Miles

Sorry to hear your experience. Good luck with the fix. We had the
same problem going up a steep hill with the AC on. THe plastic T
broke and we lost all coolant and our Memorial day weekend, all shops
were closed. Fortunately, once the T fixed, everything seems fine.
Advice to all Eurovan owners, think about replacing those plastic T.
There are 2 of them, its a $4 part at the dealer. They don't seem to
age well.


Paul,

Where are these T fittings?

Steve Z

Noise control?
If it was not necessary, why would the factory add the
expense?

--- In ev_update@y..., Erik L <erikforward@b...> wrote:

I picked up a 120 volt clock-radio for the van. It worked

fine when we

were plugged in this weeked, but when we were on battery power it

appeared

there was no power to the outlets. I didn't know if this was

normal or if

I had a problem. I did take a peek at the circut panel. The fuses

and

breakers looked ok but I had no light on the GFCI, nor did the test

or

reset buttons depress. Any suggestions?

-Erik
2001 EVC
"Eva"

Erik,

When you are not plugged in to an campground outlet, there is no 120
volts in the van. The only source of power is the 12 volt coach
battery for the camping components of the van. If you want to run a
120 volt device like a clock radio, you need to get an inverter which
will give change the 12 volts dc into 120 volts ac power. Select an
inverter somewhat larger than the amount of total watts that you
expect to be using. However, don't expect too much from an inverter
as the higher wattage models will run down the coach battery faster
and also your wallet.

Richard Cox

John -

I just got my Let's Go Aero Herman AT last week (just before the problems)
and I am really pleased with it. It sounds as though the Triple Play will
carry almost as much volume as the Herman, although I'm glad I decided on a
Herman at this point as I'd rather have something that I can easily remove
and leave at the campsite.

After the (some assembly required) about 2 hours that I spent putting the
Herman together (I'm kinda particular and took extra care with the
assembly), I've made some adjustments to the clamshell top closing screws
(so it fits accurately) and purchased some additional hooks and netting to
hold my gear safely in the Herman.

I purchased 3 of the bike holders and find that fitting 3 mountain bikes is
really easy (uses less than half the space) and gives me the whole other
side for our canopy and extra cooler. Then, I think that the rest of the
space will be filled with the porta-potty, tarps, and sleeping bags...

I've towed it only about 35 miles so far, but have decided to put a racing
stripe from the center of the front nose up the entire length of the front
clam top. This stripe will enable me to easier backup with the Herman, as
it can turn really quickly and sharply if the driver is too heavy on the EVC
turning... I thought that the black handle would suffice for this, but found
out that the handle is blocked from my view by the rear seat headrest!!

I really think that the Herman will be great for our excursions to give us
just a bit of extra space without being a huge towing liability...

I'm glad that you posted the pictures of the Herman as it helped me a lot to
decide on a Herman AT vs. a standard utility trailer that weighs over 3
times what the Herman is empty!!

Thanks again, I hope you like your Triple Play as much as I like the
Herman...

David Palmerston
2001 EVC (and Herman AT)
Santa Maria, CA

--- In ev_update@y..., rvdalton@y... wrote:

I believe VW used CFC free refrigerant (R134a) earlier than US

manufacturers. Were the 1993 EVs CFC free?

Yes, my '93 uses R134a as the refrigerant.

--- In ev_update@y..., prousseau@t... wrote:

...The plastic T broke and we lost all coolant ... think about

replacing those plastic T. There are 2 of them, its a $4 part at the
dealer. They don't seem to age well...

Paul, where are these T pieces? I am aware of a flange that some
have had fail that mounts to the head. Mike McCarthy has provided
the part numbers for this part, thanks Mike. Paul, do you have the
part number for what you had to replace? Thanks

Humphrey
'93 MV 5spd

You only get AC when you're plugged into a shoreline. That's why the GFCI light was off.

Lee Thé
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA

I don't know if this is something new or has always been there, but when I went to look at John's hitch carrier pictures I ran across a category that says "Photos." It has 30 MB of space and 0 used. Anyone know if this is new or why we aren't using it given the fact we are concerned about running out of space?

Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine