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Hi,
I have a set of 4 alloy wheels for sale,
their are stock passat 98-01 - 7 spoke with bolt pattern 5x112
They still have tires on them (Michelin Energy plus)
I got that set to install on my EV but I got an other set of 5 spoke from an
audi and I like them better.
These wheels were never installed on my EV, one tire is new (coming from the
spare) and 3 other are used but don't meet the loading rate.

I'm in the bay area and would like not to ship them.
I can remove the tire before selling if you do not want them.
Pictures available upon request.
Christian

Returned this afternoon. Lots of friendly people, lovely weather,
great campsite on the water. Buses of all types from early vans to a
Rialta. American flags everywhere, courtesy of the American Legion.
Outstanding dinner with lobster, steamers, chowdah. Great experience
that we plan to repeat. Many thanks to Rich and everyone who worked
to put it on.

Ed
'99 EVC

Can I also be removed from the list
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Hi,

I'm trying to service the Norcold refrigerator on my
2001 EVC. I've followed the procedure described on
Rich's Eurovan site ()
to remove the fridge. However, I can't budge it out of its space.
(I need to replace the thermocouple, and I'm doing
it on my own as a learning exercise.)

Any tips on removing the fridge? I'm worried about bending
hoses or lines that shouldn't be bent.

thanks!
-Mark
2001 EVC

I have a set of 4 alloy wheels for sale,
their are stock passat 98-01 7 spoke with bolt pattern 5x112
They still have tires on them (Michelin Energy plus)
I got that set to install on my EV but I got an other set of 5 spoke from an
audi and I like them better.
These wheels were never installed on my EV, one tire is new (coming from the
spare) and 3 other are used but don't meet the loading rate.

I'm in the bay area and would like not to ship them.
I can remove the tire before selling if you do not want them.
Pictures available upon request.
Christian

The belly pans function is to dirrect the air around the engine.
Removing it could cause hot spot on the block or cylinder head and
improper cooling of the radiator.
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Mark,

If everything else is working fine, why not replace the engine completely?
At a minimum, I'd replace it with the 81K mi engine. Have you spec'd out
the cost of a new engine? It's the Audi 5 cyl, right?

Steve

Mark,

If you really like the MV (does it have the WKR package?) and want to
hold on to it, you need to be prepared to spend at least $3-4K to
take care of all the items mentioned by Mike (they're good ideas).
You could bring that number down a bit if you have good access to
quality tools and can do some of the work.

Your other options might be to consider:
1. an engine swap, a chipped 1.9 TDI? or
2. hold on to this one (as a parts vehicle) and buy another 93 MV, or
3. buy a 00/01 MV

I hope you go for the TDI option...

Jerry

--- In ev_update@y..., Mark Kumler <kumler@x> wrote:

I was driving my '93 MV from southern California to the S.F.

Bay

area, where I intended to leave it with in-laws while I headed off

to New

Zealand for a year. It was a hot (*very* hot) day, but the van had
recently had a major tune, was performing wonderfully as usual, and

I

plowed through the Central Valley with the AC on. After a lengthy

lunch

break (when the engine should have cooled down a bit), I hit the

road

again. But within 10 minutes the AC faded, I lost considerable

power, and

I barely made it off the highway before a t-valve in the cooling

system

blew and -- as I would later learn -- the head was irreparably

damaged.

My boys loved the ride in the tow truck and the unexpected

Sunday (or

course) evening in a hotel pool, but I hated the news the next day

that it

would be several days and several hundred dollars, at a minimum.

After

several trans-Pacific phone calls and nearly 8 weeks, I hear that

it'll be

$2200-$2500 for a new head, piston rings, etc. For an engine that

already

has 150,000 miles on it.
I'm trying to decide whether to a) repair it, b) buy and have
installed a newer engine ("81,000 miles, compression: 175") from an

unknown

dismantler I found on the web, for about the same total price, or

c) sell

it for parts and buy a newer (but still used) one when I return to

the

States in a year. Any suggestions?

Where is your van repair being estimated ?
You could try the bettle clinic in San Mateo, Bay Area.
That is a great, excelent mecanic for VW.
He knows very well the eurovan.
You could probably call him to have a second estimate.
I can send the phone number if you are interested.
Christian

Anyone know if the fold down seat/bed from a MV can be installed in a
standard 93 GL? I would think all the holes and attaching points are there
somewhere. I have been pulling the seats and using a blow up mattress. Thanks
Spencer

I agree your block's a little long in the tooth. I like the engine with 81K
much better, but there would have to be assurances that the block really
does hit 175 and the top end is quiet. If you have a manual transmission,
now's the time to do the clutch if it hasn't been done within the last 50K
(if you have an automatic, I wonder if Plan C makes the most sense). If you
are going to pull the entire engine, it become economical to do other things
too (eg, new boots for the half-shafts, new coolant hoses, and other soft
parts too) and that's just not the case when just swapping a head, which is
all the more reason I like the 81K engine.


----------
From: Mark Kumler <kumler@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] is it worth replacing an engine?
Date: Sun, Sep 16, 2001, 8:55 AM


I was driving my '93 MV from southern California to the S.F. Bay
area, where I intended to leave it with in-laws while I headed off to New
Zealand for a year. It was a hot (*very* hot) day, but the van had
recently had a major tune, was performing wonderfully as usual, and I
plowed through the Central Valley with the AC on. After a lengthy lunch
break (when the engine should have cooled down a bit), I hit the road
again. But within 10 minutes the AC faded, I lost considerable power, and
I barely made it off the highway before a t-valve in the cooling system
blew and -- as I would later learn -- the head was irreparably damaged.
My boys loved the ride in the tow truck and the unexpected Sunday (or
course) evening in a hotel pool, but I hated the news the next day that it
would be several days and several hundred dollars, at a minimum. After
several trans-Pacific phone calls and nearly 8 weeks, I hear that it'll be
$2200-$2500 for a new head, piston rings, etc. For an engine that already
has 150,000 miles on it.
I'm trying to decide whether to a) repair it, b) buy and have
installed a newer engine ("81,000 miles, compression: 175") from an unknown
dismantler I found on the web, for about the same total price, or c) sell
it for parts and buy a newer (but still used) one when I return to the
States in a year. Any suggestions?



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<> .

I was driving my '93 MV from southern California to the S.F. Bay area, where I intended to leave it with in-laws while I headed off to New Zealand for a year. It was a hot (*very* hot) day, but the van had recently had a major tune, was performing wonderfully as usual, and I plowed through the Central Valley with the AC on. After a lengthy lunch break (when the engine should have cooled down a bit), I hit the road again. But within 10 minutes the AC faded, I lost considerable power, and I barely made it off the highway before a t-valve in the cooling system blew and -- as I would later learn -- the head was irreparably damaged.
My boys loved the ride in the tow truck and the unexpected Sunday (or course) evening in a hotel pool, but I hated the news the next day that it would be several days and several hundred dollars, at a minimum. After several trans-Pacific phone calls and nearly 8 weeks, I hear that it'll be $2200-$2500 for a new head, piston rings, etc. For an engine that already has 150,000 miles on it.
I'm trying to decide whether to a) repair it, b) buy and have installed a newer engine ("81,000 miles, compression: 175") from an unknown dismantler I found on the web, for about the same total price, or c) sell it for parts and buy a newer (but still used) one when I return to the States in a year. Any suggestions?

This page takes a VERY LONG time to load because there are so many pictures
even with my fast DSL, but I'm very moved by it and thought some here might
also be interested in seeing it. For any pictures that only show a red "x" in a box, right click and click on "Show Picture."

BTW, a few pictures down there are two pictures from "Inside the
Volkswagen Autostadt Company in Wolfsburg, Germany ."

Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine

Thanks, Jim. I'll keep looking locally.
--Jan

Did you use the right key? When we were closing the
deal to buy the EV, we tried the gas cap to make sure
everything was working and we couldn't get the gas cap
off either. The sales assistant tried, no luck. Turns
out we were using the glove box key, the sales guy was
new and didn't know. Hope this helps..

--- gatorkate30@... wrote:

Hello,
We are the excited new owners of a 2001 MV. The 1st
time my
husband tried to put gas in he couldn't get the cap
to unlock. He
put in a call to our salesman who tried to talk him
through it, with
no luck. We bought the van out-of-town so we
couldn't run over
for help. We do have a local dealer but the service
dept. is closed
until Mon. I'm hoping someone in the group has a tip
that will get
us rolling. Has anyone else had this problem? Any
and all help
would be appreciated. Other then this issue, we love
our new
van.
Warm regards,
Kate

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I purchased my belt from Napa they have them in stock.
E Penton

Hi Jan: Sorry, but I do not have a middle bench seat with the camper.
Regards, Jim

The following ev_update poll is now closed. Here are the
final results:


POLL QUESTION: Are you the owner of a 5-cylinder
engine Eurovan with an automatic
transmission? If so, please rate your
satisfaction with the transmission
according to how much maintenance
it has required.

CHOICES AND RESULTS
- Very happy-- no maintenance yet, 13 votes, 56.52%
- Satisfied-- 1 or 2 problems, easily repaired, 5 votes, 21.74%
- Unsatisfied-- major repairs needed, 4 votes, 17.39%
- Very unhappy-- had to replace entire transmission, 1 votes, 4.35%
- Disgusted-- sold the van or retrofitted with 5-speed, 0 votes, 0.00%

INDIVIDUAL VOTES
- Very happy-- no maintenance yet
- dela@...
- zeph_1999@...
- stormep@...
- jimhmc@...
- rkbowman@...
- lefthandy1@...
- boleyd@...
- rwcleary@...
- lowhoho@...
- nkaps@...
- fredsaulus@...
- westenburg@...
- dngherring@...
- Satisfied-- 1 or 2 problems, easily repaired
- gibbonsnc@...
- elgartk@...
- highrpm@...
- bleggis4@...
- cvh@...
- Unsatisfied-- major repairs needed
- rowley@...
- George.Mehallick@...
- dvanulden@...
- marcelv@...
- Very unhappy-- had to replace entire transmission
- framp1@...
- Disgusted-- sold the van or retrofitted with 5-speed


For more information about this group, please visit


For help with Yahoo! Groups, please visit

Al,

I had the same problem in June of this year with our '97 EVC also.
The yellow check engine light came on and wouldn't reset. Turned out
the problem apparantly was related to a weak, dying battery which
finally died completely a few weeks later. Soon as I installed the
new battery, the check engine light reset and hasn't come back on
since (except on start-up when its supposed to come on to verify its
working). If you're still on the original car battery, perhaps
you're experiencing the same problem. Good luck.

Sheldon
'97 EVC




--- In ev_update@y..., Al Ferguson <eurovan97@y...> wrote:

Long time lurker, first time poster...
I know this has probably been addressed before but...
I would like to know if any of you good folks can tell
me how to check and reset (if required) the EGR light
on a 1997 Eurovan-Camper (VR6). On my late 80's
Vanagons it was a simple black box on the speedo cable
with a little hole to stick a pencil in - push the
pencil in and the button will make a click sound and
is reset. Had to do that every 30K if I remember
correctly. Heck if I can find a similar setup on this
Eurovan!
So here is the deal, at 48.8K (and change) the
"check-engine" light comes. It is running cool... I
pull over and check oil, leaks, water, etc. - all is
o.k. so I drive it to the dealership - Hueberger in
Colorado Springs, CO - they won't even look at it for
a
week :-/ (terrible service) So I set an appointment.
In the meantime I would like to check that EGR / OXY
to see if it is a simple reset until I can get it in
the shop. YES I WILL GET IT LOOKED AT. BTW - I just
had a smog test on it - passed with ease.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Al Ferguson

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Messenger

oops......typo. Should be:

And, although the ignition fires more the faster the engine spins, it
*ISN'T* much of a drain

----------
From: "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] range of a battery
Date: Sat, Sep 15, 2001, 8:39 PM


Faster does not mean bigger drain. The fuel pump runs constantly
irrespective of vehicle's speed, and that's the major current draw on your
electrical system. And, although the ignition fires more the faster the
engine spins, it's much of a drain (a bigger drain is the electric fans, and
I would think you could maximize the effective range or your battery by
finding the optimum speed where the fans cycled as little as possible).

At some point, long before the ignition dies, my guess is the fuel pump
would fail to deliver sufficient fuel pressure, and that would be the end of
your ride. (When I was in college my Rambler's generator -- not alternator;
generator -- died and I made the dash from Columbus to Cleveland on battery
power alone, and of course that old car had NOTHING electrical but the coil.
I remember putting the car in reverse and killing the engine.....the backup
lights were enough to kill the ignition. IOW, the ignition required very
little actual current.)

Bottom line? I think you can drive as long as your fuel pump can maintain
adequate system pressure, and I would think you won't get much if any
warning when that's about to fail. I think you could go at least two hours
though.

----------
From: "Tom Wilds" <wildst@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Subject: Re: [ev_update] range of a battery
Date: Sat, Sep 15, 2001, 8:04 PM


2 hours at what speed? The faster you go the bigger the drain - yes ?

I would also think that at some point, long before dead, there would be
insufficient power to create the spark, and drive all of the other
electrical components. I also assume that all controllable electrical things
were off.

I had a old diesel rabbit and got about 20 miles after the alt. went and
then sat for a while..