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I was wondering if anyone had tried this. I'm glad to know it works.

Speaking of insulation, what have folks tried for sound or thermal
insulation in the body cavities? When I replaced the rear speakers in
my 97 EVC I noticed that there is nothing but air and sheet metal
behind the trim panels where the speakers are mounted. Ditto behind
the fridge and pantry cabinet, and I'll bet the same is true behind the
closet and in the sliding door. While my fridge was out for service
this summer, I installed strips of Dynamat on the inside of the body
panels behind the fridge and pantry cabinet, which seems to have
reduced the road noise somewhat. I'd be interested to know what others
have tried.

Joel Funk
97 EVC
Fort Collins, CO

kgkirkle-@... wrote:

If you live in a part of the world or US where you always have nice

70

degree weather, you won't need this tip.
Here in Texas, we have 100+ summers and 32-winters. My '97 EVC gets
very uncomfortable in the summer and in the winter the heater cycles
continually.
I've discovered a simple and inexpensive way to insulate the Pop-Top
for either climate situation. A material called "Reflectix" is sold in
home improvement centers like Lowes or Home Depot. It comes in rolls

of

various sizes (for EVC's you'll want 48"wide x 25 ft.). It is the same
material that windshield sunscreens are made of; ie. a layer of thin
bubble plastic coated on both sides with 'silvered' plastic.
I cut two long triangle pieces from the roll which exactly match the
side measurments of the pop-top (about a foot at the narrow end and
3ft. at the wide end) and wrap half around the front. These two
triangles of Reflectix are pushed up under the pop-top overhand and
fastened with velcro strips along the base of the pop-top canvas. The
front halves overlap slightly.
Once in place (it only takes a couple of minutes to install when
camping), it insulates the inside from heat gain or loss. You can

sleep

much later in the morning with the sun blazing.
The Reflectix triangles can be stored folded once in the upper bed
area or rolled and stored behind the rear seat, or any number of other
places. The Reflectix is waterproof and storms and rain don't bother

it.

Kent Kirkley
'97 EVC
'86 Vanagon
'81 Vanagon
'74 BMW 2002
'95 BMW M3
Dallas, Texas

The high-altitude kit came already installed on my 97 EVC. The second
vent is mounted on the flat surface of the body panel, not on the seam,
and is vertically aligned with the other vent. My understanding from
other posts to this list is that the vent mounts above the existing
vent, which, unfortunately, places it right under the window, but that
is how it was designed.

Joel Funk
97 EVC
Fort Collins, CO


kgkirkle-@... wrote:

Will try. And if I don't succeed, I'll airmail my EVC to you! ;-) Jim.

It seems to me that one reason it took so long to obtain the VR6 was that the
front end had to be enlarged, pushed out, to contain the engine. If true, this
might make the engine switch difficult.

Chances are lubricating the speedometer cable will help.

Well thought out, well said. Thank you for your support. Jim McCarthy

At 10:18 PM 11/16/1999 -0600, you wrote:

Chris Noeske wrote:

<<The above is one big reason I am GLAD and RELIEVED I no longer own any
Volkswagen. >>
So why bother reading about something, you neither own or like?

First of all, I am not just reading. In case you have not noticed, I have
tried to contribute positive info to help the other members.
True, I do not own a VW now, but who said I do not "like" them?
I said I was glad and relieved to not "own" one now. I still like VW's in
several ways. The Passat is one of the best cars in its class. The VR6 and
the TDI are fantastic powerplants. The EV is arguably the best van on the
market. I still miss the functionality of it. But I do have serious problems
with the attitude and performance of the VW organization (which appears to
be, if you have not noticed from other members too, "We don't care, and we
aren't going to do anything about it") The local dealers here leave
something to be desired in several ways.
I very simply came to a point where I was not willing to take the risk
anymore of incurring large amounts of money and being without a vehicle
needed for daily use. (After only 3 years of use, the $1,500 A/C system on
my '90 Vanagon blew, VW offered not one penny. After only 3 years of use,
the $2,250 A/C system blew on my '93 EV, and only after much wrangling did
they offer to pay 1/3. I "only" had to pay $1,500. Then the shifter bushing
broke and I was "only" out the EV for six weeks. After a lot of time and
effort spent to get the remaining part myself from Germany with the help of
friends, they finally agreed to reimburse only the $70 to ship the part.)
How would you feel to be without a daily driver for 6 weeks?? I missed my
vacation that summer because of the failure to get necessary parts.
I spent extra dollars for my wife and 2 of my kids to fly to New York. So I
was able to use her car for 2 weeks. After that I was fortunate to have just
purchased an old Toyota Tercel that my son would soon purchase for his first
car. I was lucky to not have to rent a car. I do not think it is reasonable
to have to rent a car for six weeks, waiting on a $6 part. If the EV had
been an extra vehicle for me it would be a different story.
Are you going to begrudge me because I prefer a reliable, cost efficient
vehicle?

So why do I bother? Because I think I might be able to help with a piece of
information from time to time. And I can learn about different things from
the members here. I, like, Ron, think freedom to have a diversity of
opinions here is a good thing. My hope is that no one will be offended, but
ultimately we all choose how to act or react.

Peace,

Wade





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Jim McCarthy
ex '87 Westfalia
'95 EuroVanCamper
Somerville, MA, USA

While I was in Germany last month, I met with an Italian company that makes
the window insulation kits for the EV. They offer the cab window set, which
includes the windshield and drivers and passengers windows. They also have a
cover for the rear window.

These covers attach with suction cups and are the quilted reflective
insulation material.

You can also buy the bulk material and make your own covers for the side
windows.

They also have insulation kits for the poptop canvas. This is also a quilted
material, but does not have the reflective layer to it. They stock the kits
for the Westfalias, and can custom make the Winnie tops if I get them a
template.

I would like to start importing these kits for EuroVans and Vanagons, so what
I propose is a group purchase. I would like to make an initial order for at
least 10 of each set, and would pass these kits on to anyone who wants them
at very close to my cost.

The difficult part of this is that I won't know what all the costs are until
they arrive. If these are shipped by parcel post, they can arrive at my
door. Other times I get hit with duty charges at the post office.

I will estimate a worst case cost and post the details.

Any volunteers for making the poptop pattern? I will need all 4 sides made
on plastic sheeting.

Steve Lashley
'66 Westy
'74 Campmobile
'93 EV MV
<A href="></A>
314-614-0750
Importing German Side Tents, Carver Propane Heaters and other Accessories for
Bus, Vanagon and EuroVan

Good question...... make that great question!
I've been wondering too ;-)

-Bill
93 Weekender

OZCOLEMAN@... wrote:

In a message dated 11/16/99 5:00:21 PM, erolz@... wrote:

<<As I have mentioned before these transmissions are known to have problems,
requiring rebuilding prematurely. Supposedly there are problems with the
valve
body. Most transmissions shops will offer to rebuilt them for you but they are
not equipped to do so. There are special tools needed and most of the guys I
talked to did not even know that it did not have any bands like the
traditional
transmissions. Hence I decided to buy a used unit. There are plenty of used
and
rebuilt transmissions available, provided yours is a CEU or CKA.
But I am sure adding fluid will solve your problem. If, by any chance, you
need a
transmission I can give you a long list of places that have them in stock.
Good luck
Eckhard>>

I'm pretty sure that the fluid is low. I don't want to take any chances
since the service shop may have neglected to put in enough fluid, or caused a
leak. The fluid level was consistent before they changed it. I'm having it
towed back to the shop this morning, as I want them to see that the fluid is
low, and they can take responsibility for any damage this may have caused.

The service we received was a simple change of fluid and replacement of the
filter and gasket. I ordered a service kit from Euro Parts, and had the shop
use it.

Steve Lashley
'66 Westy
'74 Campmobile
'93 EV MV
<A href="></A>
314-614-0750
Importing German Side Tents, Carver Propane Heaters and other Accessories for
Bus, Vanagon and EuroVan

If you live in a part of the world or US where you always have nice 70
degree weather, you won't need this tip.
Here in Texas, we have 100+ summers and 32-winters. My '97 EVC gets
very uncomfortable in the summer and in the winter the heater cycles
continually.
I've discovered a simple and inexpensive way to insulate the Pop-Top
for either climate situation. A material called "Reflectix" is sold in
home improvement centers like Lowes or Home Depot. It comes in rolls of
various sizes (for EVC's you'll want 48"wide x 25 ft.). It is the same
material that windshield sunscreens are made of; ie. a layer of thin
bubble plastic coated on both sides with 'silvered' plastic.
I cut two long triangle pieces from the roll which exactly match the
side measurments of the pop-top (about a foot at the narrow end and
3ft. at the wide end) and wrap half around the front. These two
triangles of Reflectix are pushed up under the pop-top overhand and
fastened with velcro strips along the base of the pop-top canvas. The
front halves overlap slightly.
Once in place (it only takes a couple of minutes to install when
camping), it insulates the inside from heat gain or loss. You can sleep
much later in the morning with the sun blazing.
The Reflectix triangles can be stored folded once in the upper bed
area or rolled and stored behind the rear seat, or any number of other
places. The Reflectix is waterproof and storms and rain don't bother it.
Kent Kirkley
'97 EVC
'86 Vanagon
'81 Vanagon
'74 BMW 2002
'95 BMW M3
Dallas, Texas

I posted this question a week or so ago and got no responses.
I asked for and received (from Winnebago) a high altitude kit for the
Norcold fridge in my '97EVC but haven't installed it yet. It appears
that a new hole must be drilled in EVC exterior sheet metal below the
current vent and the new vent will be placed right where there is an
indented seam running down the side of the EVC. Is this the case and
how is the new vent sealed if it installs over this seam???
Kent Kirkley
'97 EVc
'86 Vanagon
'81 Vanagon
'74 BMW 2002
'95 BMW M3
Dallas, Texas

kgkirkle-@... wrote:
original article:

When traveling on rough roads (paved or otherwise) my '97 Eurovan
Pop-Top makes a lot of noise as if it wasn't locked down. I'm always
very careful about how the pop-top fabric is folded and that the
pop-top is latched. I think some of the noise may be coming from the
bed-board rattling overhead.
Has anyone else experienced this and how did you treat it???
Kent Kirkley
'97 EVC
'86 Vanagon
'81 Vanagon
'74 BMW 2002
'95 BMW M3

A hearty thanks to everyone for your responses.
I love hearing all the solutions you guys have for this pop-top rattle
problem.
It would be neat if someone were to publish a manual of user developed
improvements to the Eurovan Camper, covering all aspects.
Kent Kirkley

Jim,

It sounds like you have some extra "play" in the front latches. If so,
rather than use the tennis ball fix, it's real easy to tighten the latches
slightly. Without the tennis balls, close the top and check the exterior to
make certain the rubber seals aren't too tight against the metal roof to
prevent tightening the latches without damaging the rubber seals. Try
pulling down on the roof to see exactly how much "play" there is in the
system. Then, to tighten the latches, simply open the roof, loosen the
retaining bolt on each of the latches and rotate the L-shaped catch one turn
and retighten the retaining bolts. Check the roof again and if necessary,
take it down another turn, but check each side separately since both sides
may not be equal.

We found it took a couple of turns on one side and a single turn on the
other to level the roof and provide a secure fit of not only the latches,
but also for the rubber seals to fit properly against the roof of the van to
provide a weathertight seal. The adjustment only takes a few minutes -- its
real easy to do.

Sheldon
'97 EVC

Hello to all,

Many thanks to all for such kind words and encouragement. I'll try
some of the spots on the i-net that Eckhard suggests. I visited the
dealer today dropping off a list of maintanence done to the van (oil &
coolent change intervals, etc). What I was told is that the regional
rep likely won't help since in the dealer's words, "If he does it for
you then he'll have to do it for everyone." I would hope that VWNA
would if everyone took such good care of their engines.

I'll keep you all up to date on what's happening here in paradise!


Cheers,

Doug Shrum
Washington State

Hello to all,

Many thanks to all for such kind words and encouragement. I'll try
some of the spots on the i-net that Eckhard suggests. I visited the
dealer today dropping off a list of maintanence done to the van (oil &
coolent change intervals, etc). What I was told is that the regional
rep likely won't help since in the dealer's words, "If he does it for
you then he'll have to do it for everyone." I would hope that VWNA
would if everyone took such good care of their engines.

I'll keep you all up to date on what's happening her in paradise!


Cheers,

Doug Shrum
Washington State

My '93 EVGL has a noisy knock/rattle coming from under the passenger
floor. It usually doesn't start until the engine is warm, and then
only seems to happen at idle and on deceleration.

I've inspected the exhaust system for any obvious signs of the rattle
and can't find any loose components. Is a rattle like this a classic
sympton of the catalytic converter going south? If it is, are there
any fixes available other than replacing with the factory part (over
$1000 here in Canada)?

Thanks,
Andrew Ebbern
Calgary, Alberta

mdekker@... wrote:

chris noeske <chris-@...> wrote:
original article:

<<The above is one big reason I am GLAD and RELIEVED I no longer own

any

Volkswagen. >>
So why bother reading about something, you neither own or like?

My guess is he's what occasionally pesters usenet groups, a troll.

Usually best to ignore them than start a flame war. Remember the PhD
from back east.

Matt,

I guess I could ignore your comments above, but I would like to respond. To
make a reference to the Herr Doktor was, in my opinion, a pretty low blow,
and uncalled for.

I do not know the definition of a troll, and don't really care to know. If
my remarks seem to "pester" you, I am sorry, you have a right to your
feelings. There was absolutely no intention on my part to start a flame war.
What are your intentions?

I do not see any profit in labeling.

Here's to hoping we can all continue to have open and honest dialogue,

Wade

jmf@... wrote:

chris noeske <chris-@...> wrote:
<<The above is one big reason I am GLAD and RELIEVED I no longer own any
Volkswagen. >>

So why bother reading about something, you neither own or like?

Ditto that, and for the dig at the warranties.

It may have sounded like a dig at the warranties, but it was meant to
inform. If enough of the members were not particularly pleased with the
shorter warranties, they might speak up to VW, and VW might do something to
change the length of the warranties. Everybody would benefit.

We're all entitled to
our opinions.

Thank you.

I don't think Wade will find much sympathy here for his.

I am not looking for any sympathy for my opinion.

I think most people here and in the multitude of other VW groups
participate because we've
had ownership experiences where reliability and value have far
outweighed the occasional consternation over glitches in design or
parts availability.

This may be true, but for me, the glitches became too expensive for my
wallet.

I see more old VWs still on the road than most other makes.

I do not know where you live, but in the Nashville area, I do not find this
to be the case. I would say I see more old Toyota's and Honda's.

No one is immune to problems, but I think we do better than others. I
know I have.

I am glad you have. Yes, you certainly do better than the American makes,
but I think the Japanese have the upper hand. I know a lot of other people
would agree.

Wade

Chris Noeske wrote:

<<The above is one big reason I am GLAD and RELIEVED I no longer own any
Volkswagen. >>
So why bother reading about something, you neither own or like?

First of all, I am not just reading. In case you have not noticed, I have
tried to contribute positive info to help the other members.
True, I do not own a VW now, but who said I do not "like" them?
I said I was glad and relieved to not "own" one now. I still like VW's in
several ways. The Passat is one of the best cars in its class. The VR6 and
the TDI are fantastic powerplants. The EV is arguably the best van on the
market. I still miss the functionality of it. But I do have serious problems
with the attitude and performance of the VW organization (which appears to
be, if you have not noticed from other members too, "We don't care, and we
aren't going to do anything about it") The local dealers here leave
something to be desired in several ways.
I very simply came to a point where I was not willing to take the risk
anymore of incurring large amounts of money and being without a vehicle
needed for daily use. (After only 3 years of use, the $1,500 A/C system on
my '90 Vanagon blew, VW offered not one penny. After only 3 years of use,
the $2,250 A/C system blew on my '93 EV, and only after much wrangling did
they offer to pay 1/3. I "only" had to pay $1,500. Then the shifter bushing
broke and I was "only" out the EV for six weeks. After a lot of time and
effort spent to get the remaining part myself from Germany with the help of
friends, they finally agreed to reimburse only the $70 to ship the part.)
How would you feel to be without a daily driver for 6 weeks?? I missed my
vacation that summer because of the failure to get necessary parts.
I spent extra dollars for my wife and 2 of my kids to fly to New York. So I
was able to use her car for 2 weeks. After that I was fortunate to have just
purchased an old Toyota Tercel that my son would soon purchase for his first
car. I was lucky to not have to rent a car. I do not think it is reasonable
to have to rent a car for six weeks, waiting on a $6 part. If the EV had
been an extra vehicle for me it would be a different story.
Are you going to begrudge me because I prefer a reliable, cost efficient
vehicle?

So why do I bother? Because I think I might be able to help with a piece of
information from time to time. And I can learn about different things from
the members here. I, like, Ron, think freedom to have a diversity of
opinions here is a good thing. My hope is that no one will be offended, but
ultimately we all choose how to act or react.

Peace,

Wade

Hi all,

Our cruise control works, but doesn't seem to hold speed without
"wandering" up then down. It is not dramatic but very annoying.

Is there an adjustment one can make to fine-tune and hold cruising
speed?

Thanks,
Tim

tim.s.cole@... or coltm@...