Re: New HD 1200N rear hatch struts installed domestic supplier
Nice, that vendor is worth remembering!
After installing a spare tire rack and tire on my rear hatch it was no surprise the OE struts couldn’t hold up the hatch anymore—not a chance. After diving into several old threads trying to track down the proper “uprated” 1200n HD struts and striking out with several NLA suppliers in the UK, and domestically both I found a supplier based in California who was a breeze to work with, shipped for free and was here in just 2-3 days. Total cost $58.00, and the 1157n rating is close enough for me ?
?Anyhow I’m very happy with the final results w my “heavier than normal” rear hatch held up high and functioning normally?once again.?
?
?
--?
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)
  
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New HD 1200N rear hatch struts installed domestic supplier
After installing a spare tire rack and tire on my rear hatch it was no surprise the OE struts couldn’t hold up the hatch anymore—not a chance. After diving into several old threads trying to track down the proper “uprated” 1200n HD struts and striking out with several NLA suppliers in the UK, and domestically both I found a supplier based in California who was a breeze to work with, shipped for free and was here in just 2-3 days. Total cost $58.00, and the 1157n rating is close enough for me ?
?Anyhow I’m very happy with the final results w my “heavier than normal” rear hatch held up high and functioning normally?once again.?
?
?
--?
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)
  
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Selling my 1995 Manual EVC with 92K miles
I love this van but we don't seem to be able to get out camping anymore so I am reluctantly selling it.? Posted on The Samba:?
Thanks! Deb 1995 EVC
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
I reached out to 16cvs per Mike?Brown's recommendation (thanks Mike!). Waiting to hear back on any suggestions for shops on the peninsula.
On Fri, Aug 19, 2022 at 7:57 AM Michael Diehr < md03@...> wrote: Re: San Diego area:? I had same rust-around-windshield problem, got it all fixed at a body shop (including new windshield).
Not cheap - about $1800, but this was done in 2010 and has held up perfectly.? It was "Bradley Allen Autobody & Paint" in Encinitas.
> On Aug 18, 2022, at 10:02 AM, Droppin bombs via <duckdive=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
> Following.? I've got the same issue.? I'm located in San Diego.? Let's compare notes and quotes.? My rust has been pretty bad.? Wish I dealt with it earlier.
>
> I've got bad rust around my spider web windshield, along a rear and a side window, and along the foot well.?
>
> Don't end up with a bad TCM -
>
> Luckily, swapping that took care of it.
>
>
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
Re: San Diego area: I had same rust-around-windshield problem, got it all fixed at a body shop (including new windshield).
Not cheap - about $1800, but this was done in 2010 and has held up perfectly. It was "Bradley Allen Autobody & Paint" in Encinitas.
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On Aug 18, 2022, at 10:02 AM, Droppin bombs via groups.io <duckdive@...> wrote:
Following. I've got the same issue. I'm located in San Diego. Let's compare notes and quotes. My rust has been pretty bad. Wish I dealt with it earlier.
I've got bad rust around my spider web windshield, along a rear and a side window, and along the foot well.
Don't end up with a bad TCM -
Luckily, swapping that took care of it.
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
On Thu, Aug 18, 2022 at 03:22 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
I've been able to solder new metal in to replace rusted out areas. But that's no good for anything structural.
I don't know a specific shop in CA, but a fellow in NH found a place that builds race car bodies.? They work on his Rialta during their down time, so don't charge him an arm and a leg, but do all the sheet metal, including structural replacement.? Another fellow in FL wasn't as lucky.? His 'repair' lasted all of 2 years before the rust was worse than ever. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 220K Miles
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
16cvs on the samba vanagon forum is a windshield repair guy in San Fran. Message him through it and I bet he can either help you or point you in the right direction.
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On Aug 18, 2022, at 4:22 PM, Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote:
?matthew urso wrote:
Same with the rust... I'm in Colorado and shops here really don't like dealing with it My grandfather was really good at brazing new pieces of sheet steel into thin steel car bodies to replace rusted out areas. He was also amazingly good with an English wheel at making entirely new pieces of compound curved metal; even entire hoods or fenders from scratch! Alas, he is no more. Skills like that seem to have disappeared.
I've been able to solder new metal in to replace rusted out areas. But that's no good for anything structural.
Bondo of course makes it look smooth and nice; but it will not stop the metal from continuing to rust. I've found that POR-15 is the best paint for preserving rusted areas that are still structurally sound. Then you can fill in the holes without the repair just falling out again.
I wish I knew of a home handyman technique for stopping rust as effectively as the original coatings used on newer cars.
Happy motoring,
Lee Hart
--
Knowledge is better than belief. Belief is when someone else does
your thinking for you. (anonymous)
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
matthew urso wrote: Same with the rust... I'm in Colorado and shops here really don't like dealing with it My grandfather was really good at brazing new pieces of sheet steel into thin steel car bodies to replace rusted out areas. He was also amazingly good with an English wheel at making entirely new pieces of compound curved metal; even entire hoods or fenders from scratch! Alas, he is no more. Skills like that seem to have disappeared. I've been able to solder new metal in to replace rusted out areas. But that's no good for anything structural. Bondo of course makes it look smooth and nice; but it will not stop the metal from continuing to rust. I've found that POR-15 is the best paint for preserving rusted areas that are still structurally sound. Then you can fill in the holes without the repair just falling out again. I wish I knew of a home handyman technique for stopping rust as effectively as the original coatings used on newer cars. Happy motoring, Lee Hart -- Knowledge is better than belief. Belief is when someone else does your thinking for you. (anonymous) -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
Same with the rust... I'm in Colorado and shops here really don't like dealing with it
Following.? I've got the same issue.? I'm located in San Diego.? Let's compare notes and quotes.? My rust has been pretty bad.? Wish I dealt with it earlier.
I've got bad rust around my spider web windshield, along a rear and a side window, and along the foot well.??
Don't end up with a bad TCM -?
Luckily, swapping that took care of it.
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
Following.? I've got the same issue.? I'm located in San Diego.? Let's compare notes and quotes.? My rust has been pretty bad.? Wish I dealt with it earlier.
I've got bad rust around my spider web windshield, along a rear and a side window, and along the foot well.??
Don't end up with a bad TCM -?
Luckily, swapping that took care of it.
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Re: Strange Noises from 2002 EVC
The low rumbling could be a bad tire, though I would have expected a higher frequency to the noise. It could be though that a higher frequency noise is beating with the tire noise and producing the 2 Hz variation. Try rotating tires front to back and see if anything changes.
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Re: Strange Noises from 2002 EVC
Just some VERY wild guesses:
I would pull the rear wheel? and look for rust buildup on the
rotor or pads. How old are the pads? Check the emergency brake
cables to see if they are sticking.
The 2 Hz vibration "could" be the natural frequency of the rear
spring and the mass of the rear tire and wheel. If that is what is
vibrating, then your shock absorber is bad or the shock mounts
could be bad.? The shock absorber should damp out that vibration.
How old are your shocks? Original? Mine lasted for <100kmiles.
Sam
02 EVC 145,000 miles
On 8/17/2022 5:51 PM, James Loomis via
groups.io wrote:
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I have 2 strange noises coming from my 2002 EVC.? The first noise
is a low grating noise that appears to be coming from the right
rear.? I initially thought it was wheel bearing related, but my
mechanic found no wheel bearing issues.? The noise is most
apparent when first driving the van after it has been parked for a
while with the emergency brake applied but is noticeable while
driving.? The right rear wheel turns silently and freely by hand.
The second noise is a low rumbling while driving at speed (65 to
70 mph) with a frequency of about 2 cycles per second.? The noise
appears to come from the rear of the van, but it is difficult to
determine the actual location while driving.
Neither of these noises appears to affect the operation of the van
or appears to be engine/transmission related.? The rumbling noise
frequency is not consistent with the wheel rotation frequency and
there are no moving parts back there except the wheels.? I am
stumped and would appreciate any recommendations or observations.
Jim Loomis
2002 EVC, 150,000 miles
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Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
Busted windshield with rust around the edge is requiring me to look for a body shop.? Any recommendations on a shop in the San Francisco bay area?? Might consider dealing with rust on some other areas as well.
Thanks,
Roger
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Strange Noises from 2002 EVC
I have 2 strange noises coming from my 2002 EVC.? The first noise is a low grating noise that appears to be coming from the right rear.? I initially thought it was wheel bearing related, but my mechanic found no wheel bearing issues.? The noise is most apparent when first driving the van after it has been parked for a while with the emergency brake applied but is noticeable while driving.? The right rear wheel turns silently and freely by hand.
The second noise is a low rumbling while driving at speed (65 to 70 mph) with a frequency of about 2 cycles per second.? The noise appears to come from the rear of the van, but it is difficult to determine the actual location while driving.
Neither of these noises appears to affect the operation of the van or appears to be engine/transmission related.? The rumbling noise frequency is not consistent with the wheel rotation frequency and there are no moving parts back there except the wheels.? I am stumped and would appreciate any recommendations or observations.
Jim Loomis
2002 EVC, 150,000 miles
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Another plug for Independent Auto Werks—with an e btw :-). ?They’ve helped me out a ton over the years. Formerly and for decades known as Independent Bug Werks—until a VW o A cease and desist letter forced them to change their name several years ago. 52 years in business keeping VWs on the road….?
--
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)
 
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Thank you, thank you, to all who responded for your ideas and suggestions!? This group is great. Just got Havana back from the mechanics who started?from scratch again?and finally found the main culprit. I took her for a test drive up and down hills, idled along on flats?at 1000 rpm, stopped and turned her off multiple times and she ran perfectly.? The answer was unexpected.? After?she gets to temperature there?was soot or some other build up on the OXYGEN SENSOR which gave a false signal back to the computer to pour on the gas. As Maitland said:?"it's the default VW setting as well for when things go wrong: just flood the engine with fuel".? And?they did not charge me for the second visit.? I can't recommend Independent?Autoworks of Corvallis enough. Thanks?again for everyone's responses. Curtis '95 EVC? 140,000 miles
Hello, Curtis,
I don’t recommend aiming a parts cannon to “fix” stuff unless you know the part you're buying is the fix. But if you already have a known-good part available (free), then it's reasonable to swap the part.
Based on the symptoms you provided… and understanding I’m only guessing based on my experience.
And also understanding for most of stuff I’m suggesting here, you’ll need a scope, a multimeter, and some experience or someone who knows what to look for and/or how to interpret waveform data. If you’re a gung-ho? DIY’er, then jump on the internet. Lots of excellent video tutorials available by some amazing auto techs who willingly share their expertise with everyone.
1. Vacuum leak (unmetered air) - as rpm's and run-time increase, the ride smooths out. The engine gets hotter, and heat tends to minimize or nearly "fix" small vacuum leaks at cylinder heads and valve cover and other places so the ECU doesn’t go bonkers with unmetered air and flood the fuel injectors. So check for leaks at egr, pcv (sticking pcv can cause idle and other performance issues), air flow meter, brake booster (although the booster can be trickier to diagnose), any place there’s a grommet, hose, gasket or mating surface on engine. Really easy and cheap to diy test for many vacuum leaks with a spray bottle of water. Lots of excellent videos online. Go deeper using a vacuum gauge and/or smoke machine. Easy to setup.
2. Fuel pressure regulator is getting “stuck” but gets happy at higher rpm. Many regulators have a rubber o-ring seal. Sometimes those get smooshy-brittle and leak. You’ll need to test fuel pump pressure as other posters suggested and check before/after regulator and filter. A related issue is intermittent voltage drop to the fuel pump from the fuel pump relay. If power is being restricted to the fuel pump, the pump won’t pump the correct pressure or volume of fuel. In your case, most of the performance issue is at lower rpm, not highway driving…so inclined to think may not be the pump pressure or volume per se unless…
3. Fuel pump is ready to go – you’ll need pump specs, a scope and a multimeter to really test this, maybe a little experience as well to understand/interpret waveforms and because you’ll be checking grounds and power from the engine bay to the fuel pump.
4. Fuel injectors – really need a scope on these and check against ignition spark and crank. Are they the original 140,000 mile injectors? Ever been replaced/removed/cleaned?
5. MAF sensor – needs cleaning or needs replacing. Even with a scope this is a difficult sensor to troubleshoot. You’ll need a scope, multimeter, experience. And you’ll need to perform drive cycles. Even then, it can be a crapshoot, especially if no codes.?
6. IAC – Idle Air Control valve needs cleaning or is faulty. Not sure if your vehicle has one.
7. PCV sticking sometimes but related to air leak. Easy to check. Make sure to check grommet if it has one. If it’s rubber, it likes to leak. So check for vacuum leak. Don’t buy a new pcv if the installed pcv checks okay. That’s money you can save for a cheap burger. If you have to buy new, then make sure to get the grommet as well. ?
8. ECT. Faulty Engine Coolant Temp sensor. If temp sensor misreports, then ECU adjusts fuel because it thinks the engine isn’t running at proper temp (adds fuel if it thinks it’s “cold” which is part of reason why rpm higher on startup). Easy to test…but a real pain to get out sometimes. This is a rare issue.
If I were the tech, I’d be asking questions and looking at stuff:
How long have these symptoms been present (when did you notice and why)?
What time of day?
Are symptoms present all the time or intermittent?
What color is the exhaust at idle? After sitting all night or day? At running temp? After driving for 15 minutes on the highway?
Any fuel smell in the engine compartment?
Any wetness near the fuel injectors or fuel pressure regulator?
How’s gas mileage?
Any strange noises from the engine compartment?
What’s your air filter look like?
Battery at full charge and getting charged properly?
Were any other parts replaced before or besides the computer?
What happens when you stomp on the accelerator (wot – wide open throttle)?
What happens to rpm when you turn on a/c (if you have a/c)?
Surprising the ECU replacement “fixed” anything. It's more typical for something to get "fixed" unknowingly when a tech is banging around in the engine bay -?if the stalling is still fixed as you say – excellent!. Replacing an ECU is a big deal. It’s more typical for techs not to perform a proper drive-cycle relearn pattern when an ECU is replaced. So what you get is the default performance protocol from the ECU until the ECU adjusts itself for the signals from input/output sensors and then sends its corrections to some sensors…so from air flow to fuel to spark, the big three of any combustion engine and from evap system. Performance can change after the default system is adjusted real-time from sensors.?
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Re: Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper
#partswanted
In addition to the jump box, I rigged up my LifePo4 aux battery so that on occasion, if needed, I can switch my aux battery to charge my engine battery.? I made a simple drawing, attached.? Remember that if you add a lithium battery as your aux, you'll need to add a DC-DC charger (for LifePo4) and convert your AC-DC Charger as well.? All of it works great with solar and with a 1000-watt inverter! (not shown) Never leave your two batteries directly connected after your jump! 
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Re: Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper
#partswanted
I have a Micro-Start XP-10 The reason I have this one is that it was a gift. Have had it for about 5 years. Never failed me. Jumped vehicles, charged my phone, camera, and computer, powered my compressor. ? Once I thought I had lost it and researched for a replacement. If I hadn’t found the Micro-Start, I would have bought this: ? Kozmo ? ?
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From: eurovanupdate@groups.io <eurovanupdate@groups.io> On Behalf Of Craig Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2022 12:34 PM To: eurovanupdate@groups.io Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper #partswanted ? Can I ask which brand or model of lithium jump box you have and how long ? Was thinking of getting one since they are so small and seem to work well. ? On Sun, Aug 14, 2022 at 2:34 PM Kozmo <kozmob@...> wrote: Here’s my list. I keep a check-off list of everything I pack so I know when I leave home, I have it all. YMMV depending on your travel and camping style. I am often on very remote Forest Service and BLM roads. ? - Phone – with maps and many other relevant apps. That would be another good list.
- Garmin InReach satellite messenger
- AAA card
- Flashlights and headlamps
- Tool bag –small collection of the usual mechanic tools
- Electrical tools and supplies; multi-meter, 16-gauge wire, wire cutters, butt splices
- Shovel
- GoTreads traction grids - for sand or snow
- Extra key – hidden in an outside lock box
- Lithium jump starter battery pack – can start the rig if necessary or power any device on board. I also have jumper cables though they might be obsolete with the lithium battery
- Tow strap
- Air in a can
- 12V compressor
- Work gloves
- Fire extinguisher
- Beer – in case all else fails. Or not.
Spare parts- Serpentine belt
- Voltage regulator
- Hose clamps
- Motor oil
? ? ? ? ? I am hitting the road in my 2001 Eurovan Camper (86K Miles) for an extended road trip. Which tools and spare parts would you take with you? In the past I have taken: 1. A canvas repair kit; 2. various screwdrivers and wrenches 3. Tire iron, jack, and gloves, good spare tire; 4. freon leak detector and yellow glasses; 5. error code detector. What other useful tools should I consider?
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Re: Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper
#partswanted
Komso,
Can I ask which brand or model of lithium jump box you have and how long ?
Was thinking of getting one since they are so small and seem to work well.
Craig
On Sun, Aug 14, 2022 at 2:34 PM Kozmo < kozmob@...> wrote: Here’s my list. I keep a check-off list of everything I pack so I know when I leave home, I have it all. YMMV depending on your travel and camping style. I am often on very remote Forest Service and BLM roads. ? - Phone – with maps and many other relevant apps. That would be another good list.
- Garmin InReach satellite messenger
- AAA card
- Flashlights and headlamps
- Tool bag –small collection of the usual mechanic tools
- Electrical tools and supplies; multi-meter, 16-gauge wire, wire cutters, butt splices
- Shovel
- GoTreads traction grids - for sand or snow
- Extra key – hidden in an outside lock box
- Lithium jump starter battery pack – can start the rig if necessary or power any device on board. I also have jumper cables though they might be obsolete with the lithium battery
- Tow strap
- Air in a can
- 12V compressor
- Work gloves
- Fire extinguisher
- Beer – in case all else fails. Or not.
Spare parts- Serpentine belt
- Voltage regulator
- Hose clamps
- Motor oil
? ? ? ? ? I am hitting the road in my 2001 Eurovan Camper (86K Miles) for an extended road trip. Which tools and spare parts would you take with you? In the past I have taken: 1. A canvas repair kit; 2. various screwdrivers and wrenches 3. Tire iron, jack, and gloves, good spare tire; 4. freon leak detector and yellow glasses; 5. error code detector. What other useful tools should I consider?
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Re: Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper
#partswanted
Here’s my list. I keep a check-off list of everything I pack so I know when I leave home, I have it all. YMMV depending on your travel and camping style. I am often on very remote Forest Service and BLM roads. ? - Phone – with maps and many other relevant apps. That would be another good list.
- Garmin InReach satellite messenger
- AAA card
- Flashlights and headlamps
- Tool bag –small collection of the usual mechanic tools
- Electrical tools and supplies; multi-meter, 16-gauge wire, wire cutters, butt splices
- Shovel
- GoTreads traction grids - for sand or snow
- Extra key – hidden in an outside lock box
- Lithium jump starter battery pack – can start the rig if necessary or power any device on board. I also have jumper cables though they might be obsolete with the lithium battery
- Tow strap
- Air in a can
- 12V compressor
- Work gloves
- Fire extinguisher
- Beer – in case all else fails. Or not.
Spare parts- Serpentine belt
- Voltage regulator
- Hose clamps
- Motor oil
? ? ? ?
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From: eurovanupdate@groups.io <eurovanupdate@groups.io> On Behalf Of stevekrival Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2022 11:26 AM To: eurovanupdate@groups.io Subject: [eurovanupdate] Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper #partswanted ? I am hitting the road in my 2001 Eurovan Camper (86K Miles) for an extended road trip. Which tools and spare parts would you take with you? In the past I have taken: 1. A canvas repair kit; 2. various screwdrivers and wrenches 3. Tire iron, jack, and gloves, good spare tire; 4. freon leak detector and yellow glasses; 5. error code detector. What other useful tools should I consider?
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Justin Soares
Duane
Lee Hart
Bob H
Craig