Re: EVC rear hatch (Liftgate) latch operation has "reversed" - Fixed
FIxed.
First to clarify, I wasn't using the keys to test this - just using the front passenger door pull knob to open and close the doors. The rear hatch was definitely 'reversed' compared to the door - so it is possible for this to happen.
My fix: pulled out electric door lock module and opened it up. I cleaned all the gold tracks/contacts inside with contact cleaner. I also scraped dark residue and cleaned off the connector pins with contact cleaner. One was especially oxidized. I put it back in and it is working properly. So as far as i can see, something in all these connections was not making proper contact - and possibly the vibration of the mechanism when opening / closing was inducing connectivity issues and thus improper sequence of operation.
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George Y
95 EVC Winnabago - Ottawa ON area
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sam letzring wrote: You really should get a trailer light converter. The problem with wiring the trailer lights to the van lights directly is that now you have doubled the current draw from the flasher. The flasher rate will then slow down considerably. Look up a trailer light converter on Amazon or Autozone. I have mine stuffed behind the rear reflector- much easier and quicker. You can also get LED lights for the trailer and/or Eurovan. I use LED lights in my trailer. They draw so little current compared to tungsten lights that the flasher doesn't notice the difference, so the flashing rate is the same. Lee Hart -- Knowledge is better than belief. Belief is when someone else does your thinking for you. (anonymous) -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com
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You really should get a trailer light converter. The problem with
wiring the trailer lights to the van lights directly is that now
you have doubled the current draw from the flasher. The flasher
rate will then slow down considerably. Look up a trailer light
converter on Amazon or Autozone. I have mine stuffed behind the
rear reflector- much easier and quicker.
Sam
02 EVC
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I have a1999 EVC and am attempting to wire the harness for towing
a trailer. I have it all connected to the passenger side rear tail
light wires, following the color coded wires from the wiring
diagram in the manual. It is connected to the house battery in the
rear right compartment by the right rear tail light. My problem is
that do not get 12 volts at the 4 pin connector that connects to
the trailer.?
Any help would be appreciated.?
Ian Bullock
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I have a1999 EVC and am attempting to wire the harness for towing a trailer. I have it all connected to the passenger side rear tail light wires, following the color coded wires from the wiring diagram in the manual. It is connected to the house battery in the rear right compartment by the right rear tail light. My problem is that do not get 12 volts at the 4 pin connector that connects to the trailer.?
Any help would be appreciated.?
Ian Bullock
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Re: Open hatch from inside
Ok, thx maybe a can cut a hole in the trim and find the release. ?
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Re: advice and parts for 2003 EV MV WE
I just had a pretty big oil leak develop on my 2002 with the AXK VR6 motor. It has around 250k miles on it and has never really leaked oil until recently. I removed the oil cooler and oil filter mount assembly and replaced the 4 gaskets and also
the oil pressure switch too. I cleaned up the Polly motor as best as I could with super clean and the garden hose. I left the belly pan off and have been driving the van for a week with no oil leaking from the motor since. Still nice and clean. ?The oil cooler
gaskets sound like they are a pretty common oil leak source. It was pretty easy to remove the parts to replace them too. I would try those to see if it slows down your oil leak. I got the parts from autohausaz. Be careful as the 2versions of vr6 appear to
have different gaskets for the oil filter housing. The AXK needed 2 “square” ring while the older version has a gasket that looks like an 8.?
I also found my coolant pump had locked up at some point and ordered a new one online for around $50. I found it because it caused a fuse to blow for the coolant pump which made my AC compressor clutch not turn on. ?
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On Aug 25, 2022, at 5:19 AM, Phil <apothecarymortar@...> wrote:
?
Kate
Very sorry to hear of your dilemma. I have the exact same model/year, (absolutely love it, and do almost all the work on mine) ?Indeed without checking, that sounds like the proper list I recall for the intake manifold removal- the six of one are for the spark
plug/coil slots. ?I’ve done mine 3 times over the years. It’s required for a timing chain job, or removal of ?the trans (for a timing chain job) and they are as a mechanic once said, notorious for leaking oil. As I recall, they wanted $500 for exactly the
job your speaking of. (5 years ago- and by the way, coincidentally, I too only had 20 kmi. On my coolant pump- the shortest I’ve had on any). I had him do the water pump, and I now carry a spare. - I don’t like Gaff(?), but it’s a total crap shot on brands/
bathes as Duane has said before. ?( I did the intake myself, but was in the middle of my longest trip so couldn't do the water pump conveniently- don't recall what it ran, but was very reasonable- and a simple job if you have the tools- even on the road-the
intake job was not simple, and great care must be made with the M9 bolts at the base of the manifold. ? As to the door panel- that’s very high and not a bad job. ?Your problem most likely is the door jamb wires- there are lots of old links in the forum- I
did mine long ago, if you don’t replace the harness, a better long run, cheap choice is splicing the wires with “18g fine stranded silicone insulated” wire. Done right, they will never break again. ?Lastly, yes plastic parts can easily break, and many mechanics
have (occasionally me) have it happen-that’s what zip ties and JB Weld are for.
Best of luck and happy trails.
Phil B 2003 EV WE AXK engine 322 kmi
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Re: Open hatch from inside
The EVC (Winnebago Camper conversion) has this capability, but not the Weekender.
Winnebago basically added a hole in the trim panel on the rear door to allow access to a tab of the unlock mechanism to give an emergency egress.
I think it's a requirement for an RV conversion.
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Re: advice and parts for 2003 EV MV WE
Kate
Very sorry to hear of your dilemma. I have the exact same model/year, (absolutely love it, and do almost all the work on mine) ?Indeed without checking, that sounds like the proper list I recall for the intake manifold removal- the six of one are for the spark plug/coil slots. ?I’ve done mine 3 times over the years. It’s required for a timing chain job, or removal of ?the trans (for a timing chain job) and they are as a mechanic once said, notorious for leaking oil. As I recall, they wanted $500 for exactly the job your speaking of. (5 years ago- and by the way, coincidentally, I too only had 20 kmi. On my coolant pump- the shortest I’ve had on any). I had him do the water pump, and I now carry a spare. - I don’t like Gaff(?), but it’s a total crap shot on brands/ bathes as Duane has said before. ?( I did the intake myself, but was in the middle of my longest trip so couldn't do the water pump conveniently- don't recall what it ran, but was very reasonable- and a simple job if you have the tools- even on the road-the intake job was not simple, and great care must be made with the M9 bolts at the base of the manifold. ? As to the door panel- that’s very high and not a bad job. ?Your problem most likely is the door jamb wires- there are lots of old links in the forum- I did mine long ago, if you don’t replace the harness, a better long run, cheap choice is splicing the wires with “18g fine stranded silicone insulated” wire. Done right, they will never break again. ?Lastly, yes plastic parts can easily break, and many mechanics have (occasionally me) have it happen-that’s what zip ties and JB Weld are for.
Best of luck and happy trails.
Phil B 2003 EV WE AXK engine 322 kmi
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advice and parts for 2003 EV MV WE
Hi, all -? I took my van to the dealer as my local go to guy wasn’t available for a 40K service at 155K miles. Major issues discovered included a coolant leak and an oil leak. The coolant leak requires a new water pump altho it was replaced 4 years and 20K miles ago. The part is on order.
I was told the oil leak was from a valve cover gasket -which was diagnosed by putting something in the oil and using a UV light. The engine is still intact. The dealer told me the gasket parts are no longer available and they couldn’t find an aftermarket source. I did get the part numbers which are listed here as follows: 022-133-227B -1 needed? 022-133-227D - 2 needed 022-133-227A-1 needed Other gaskets that were available included 022-103-483-E (1 needed) and 022-103-484-F (6 needed).
I am at the dealer's mercy as I have no clue about any of this. The only positive thing is that I was told the technician working on the van was a Eurovan owner but of course I didn’t think to ask to talk to him.
My question for those who know about these things - are there alternatives to these gaskets? I did look on GoWesty and found 022-133-227A which is listed as an intake manifold gasket-lower for the princely sum of ?$8.94. ?The Bus Depot has A ($6.82) & B ($28.81) but not D.?
My sense is to let the dealer do the water pump and the rear brakes - but to keep searching for gaskets and find someone else to do that repair. Is that reasonable? What kind of risk to harming the engine do I have by putting off this repair? Much of my reluctance is the dealer’s charge of $280 to diagnose each issue … - for example I asked them to find out why the motor for the external mirrors didn’t work - ?$280 ?to tell me the fuse was ok but wanted $480 to take door panels off to continue to diagnose the issue ?and then whatever to fix it. Plus a warning that the plastic parts could break. Grrr. Said no to that one.?
Thanks for any advice! Kate
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gaskets and parts search for 2003 EV WE
Hi, all -?
I took my van to the dealer as my local go to guy wasn’t available for a 40K service at 155K miles. Major issues discovered included a coolant leak and an oil leak. The coolant leak requires a new water pump altho it was replaced 4 years and 20K miles ago. The part is on order.
?
I was told the oil leak was from a valve cover gasket -which the service advisor informed me when I asked was diagnosed by putting something in the oil and using a UV light. The engine is still intact. The dealer told me the gasket parts are no longer available and they couldn’t find an aftermarket source. I did get the part numbers which are listed here as follows:
022-133-227B -1 needed?
022-133-227D - 2 needed
022-133-227A-1 needed
Other gaskets that were needed and available included 022-103-483-E (1 needed) and 022-103-484-F (6 needed). I am unclear as to why they are needed. The answer from the service advisor was along the lines of "the technician said so".?
?
I am at the dealer's mercy as I have no clue about any of this. The only positive thing is that I was told the technician working on the van was a Eurovan owner but of course I didn’t think to ask to talk to him.
?
My question for those who know about these things - are there alternatives to these gaskets? I did look on GoWesty and found 022-133-227A which is listed as an intake manifold gasket-lower for the princely sum of ?$8.94. ?The Bus Depot has A ($6.82) & B ($28.81) but not D. I didn't order them yet.
?
My sense is to let the dealer do the water pump and the rear brakes - but to keep searching for gaskets and find someone else to do that repair. Is that reasonable? What kind of risk of engine ?harm do I have by putting off this repair? Much of my reluctance is the dealer’s charge of $280 to diagnose each issue … - for example I asked them to find out why the motor for the external mirrors didn’t work - ?$280 ?to tell me the fuse was ok but wanted $480 to take door panels off to continue to diagnose the issue ?and then whatever to fix it. Plus a warning that the plastic parts could break. Grrr. Said no to that one.?
?
Thanks for any advice!
Kate
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Okay I've seen a few things about opening the rear hatch from the inside. I have a 2001 Weekender does anybody know how to do this?
Thx
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Re: EVC rear hatch (Liftgate) latch operation has "reversed"
That's it the 3 lock position?
On Wed, Aug 24, 2022 at 10:19 AM, Carl Hansen via groups.io <CARL_HANSEN@...> wrote: Physically impossible for the operation to "Reverse"...
Check the owners manual on the lock 3 positions?
Ch
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Re: EVC rear hatch (Liftgate) latch operation has "reversed"
Physically impossible for the operation to "Reverse"...
Check the owners manual on the lock 3 positions?
Ch
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Re: EVC rear hatch (Liftgate) latch operation has "reversed"
You know I had a similar problem in my 2001 I think what I realized is the key turns a couple different ways one will allow it to be unlocked when the other doors are locked and the other way it will not .I really can't remember but it was something to do with the key anyway give it a try it's easy if it works.
On Tue, Aug 23, 2022 at 10:10 PM, George Ya <gny@...> wrote: All of a sudden the rear liftgate outside handle will not open the liftgate when the van is unlocked, but will open when the van is locked. Has this been seen before (I can't find anything)?
Short of replacing the electric actuator (I assume it must be faulty inside?), any actuator repair videos out there?
Alternately, the Chinese replacement ones seem to be very inexpensive -> are they reliable?
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George Y
95 EVC Winnabago - Ottawa ON area
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EVC rear hatch (Liftgate) latch operation has "reversed"
All of a sudden the rear liftgate outside handle will not open the liftgate when the van is unlocked, but will open when the van is locked. Has this been seen before (I can't find anything)?
Short of replacing the electric actuator (I assume it must be faulty inside?), any actuator repair videos out there?
Alternately, the Chinese replacement ones seem to be very inexpensive -> are they reliable?
--
George Y
95 EVC Winnabago - Ottawa ON area
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Re: Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper
#partswanted
Female “spade” connector ;-)
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Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)
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Re: Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper
#partswanted
Nice write-up, thank you Ken.
- Jonathan 1999 EVC
On Monday, August 22, 2022 at 10:48:10 AM PDT, Ken <ken.friesen@...> wrote:
Michael mentioned to bring a spare ignition switch and right angle screwdriver as part of the spare parts. Having the ignition switch just fail me one day before taking it on a long trip in the Sierras I decided to do a write up on it. The actual 'emergency 'part I would recommend is a three foot wire with a female butt connector on one end. This is to simply 'jump' the van when it doesn't start because the ignition switch went bad. Here's my write up on the emergency and permanent fix:
Ken
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Re: Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper
#partswanted
Michael mentioned to bring a spare ignition switch and right angle screwdriver as part of the spare parts. Having the ignition switch just fail me one day before taking it on a long trip in the Sierras I decided to do a write up on it. The actual 'emergency 'part I would recommend is a three foot wire with a female butt connector on one end. This is to simply 'jump' the van when it doesn't start because the ignition switch went bad. Here's my write up on the emergency and permanent fix:
Ken
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Re: New HD 1200N rear hatch struts installed domestic supplier
I installed the same spare tire mount and struts, the struts seem a little light in the uplift power, becareful on cold days as the struts seem to be a little weaker till they warm up.
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Re: New HD 1200N rear hatch struts installed domestic supplier
Next, let's see if the door hinges can take and keep the door in alignment.?
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On Aug 20, 2022, at 10:55 PM, coastielfs <lfsiegle@...> wrote:
? Nice, that vendor is worth remembering! After installing a spare tire rack and tire on my rear hatch it was no surprise the OE struts couldn’t hold up the hatch anymore—not a chance. After diving into several old threads trying to track down the proper “uprated” 1200n HD struts and striking out with several NLA suppliers in the UK, and domestically both I found a supplier based in California who was a breeze to work with, shipped for free and was here in just 2-3 days. Total cost $58.00, and the 1157n rating is close enough for me ?
?Anyhow I’m very happy with the final results w my “heavier than normal” rear hatch held up high and functioning normally?once again.?
?
?
--?
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)
  
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Lee Hart
Justin Soares