The basic answer is "yes" - solar charge controllers (SCCs), and other chargers, including ones that run off 120VAC (such as the Magnetek, or a newer charger) as well as just the van's 12VDC alternator, can coexist happily. ??
In some cases you may encounter difficulties, but they are generally not dangerous: the more common issue would be that you end up with a slight undercharge. ?
As an example, my SCC wants to charge the house battery to 14.6V. ?But while driving, the house and starter batteries are connected by the relay so both are connected to the alternator. ?The alternator runs at a lower voltage (closer to 13.8V). ? At the end of a long day driving, the house battery may be only ~85% charged. ?Not perfect, but good enough.
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Mike:
Can a solar controller be left connected to the coach battery when the house AC charger is active?
My plan is to have a portable solar panel for occasional use when away from AC, which I would disconnect and store when it is not needed.
I think it can be done, but would appreciate your input
Thanks in advance
W. Li
95 EVC 5-speed
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Mike:
Can a solar controller be left connected to the coach battery when the house AC charger is active?
My plan is to have a portable solar panel for occasional use when away from AC, which I would disconnect and store when it is not needed.
I think it can be done, but would appreciate your input
Thanks in advance
W. Li
95 EVC 5-speed
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Anyone have a lower timing cover for an ACU engine to sell? I could actually use the metal rear cover as well.
The lower timing cover is part number 074109127J, and the inner metal cover is 074109142B.
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On Tue, Aug 3, 2021 at 08:38 AM, sascph wrote:
Is this also the neutral safety switch?
Yes.? It's called the Multifunction Switch, Neutral Safety Switch, and F125.? It's at the left, rear corner of the transmission, just above the pan gasket.?? When I take them off, I use a probe to try to bend the tabs in the wiring connector toward each other, in an attempt to grab the switch pin better. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 208K Miles
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Thanks Duane.?
I think I¡¯m going to take a look at this¡.and try to find it!
I did notice last year that the PRNDL digital indicator ¡°reversed¡± color from black to white background. ?It¡¯s like that now.?
Is this also the neutral safety switch?
Best, Mark
On Saturday, July 31, 2021, 05:48:57 PM EDT, Duane <txpigeon@...> wrote:
On Sat, Jul 31, 2021 at 09:23 AM, sascph wrote:
Neutral safety switch ? Reverse lights an indicator??
Take a look at the gear indicator on the dash.? If it's showing D instead of P, try cleaning the multifunction switch connector on the transmission.? That will keep the neutral safety circuit from allowing engine start. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 207K Miles
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Re: no a/c coming out of dash,
The foam rot happened to me 8 years ago.? I found that if I press the ac button and recirculate, I get hot air.?
If I never use the recirculate button it blows cool from the dash.? Point is I avoided dismantling the dash and it cools fine.? In winter? dont chnage the controls.? Just move the temperature control to warmer and the heat works fine too.
Burt 99 HD
BTW: Now for sale after 21 years of original ownership and garaged.. No rust nor any rubber rot.? New Jersey.
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Re: no a/c coming out of dash
Roger
use some JB WELD PLASTIC version and reinforce it as well as bond it.
Phil B. 2003 EV WE 294 kmi
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Re: no a/c coming out of dash
Thanks for the suggestions--seemed to me like the blend door cables were the likely culprit, so I took apart what I could of the dash/console and discovered that there are two cables that control the blend doors. One cable controls the windshield/floor option, and one cable controls the floor/dash blend. The piece of plastic (not reinforced, unfortunately) that holds the floor/dash blend in place with a retainer clip had broken off. I guess you could count on a little plastic fatigue in 24 years. So that cable is now just coming out from underneath the dash and can be operated manually. Funky, but works fine. There is def. some foam loss going on in there as well, but perhaps I can stave that off for a while longer.? Roger
On Sun, Aug 1, 2021 at 3:02 PM Vance Stasna via <vancestasna= [email protected]> wrote: There is less strain if you turn blower off when switching vents. ?
Roger
"no tension", probably the connecting cable has come off the lever for one of the blend doors or
the knob itself. Not as serious as the "foam" issue. Have you had any foam coming out of any of the dash vents?
It might also be foam has come off of one, but not all the blend doors.
Yours being a '97 (like mine) it's time to address recovering the blend doors and while at it, install a new
heater core, blower motor and heater valve. The parts are inexpensive, the labor not so much.
Kent Kirkley
'97EVC
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Murphy < rogerwmurphy@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sun, Aug 1, 2021 7:08 am
Subject: [eurovanupdate] no a/c coming out of dash
1997 EVC w/135k approx. A/C still working, but only coming out of defrost and feet when using directional knob. There is no "tension" (if that is the right word) on the knob when it is moved to the dash. Is this the dreaded "foam" issue and I need to take apart the dash?
|
Re: no a/c coming out of dash
There is less strain if you turn blower off when switching vents.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 1, 2021, at 9:02 AM, Kent Kirkley via groups.io <kgkirkley@...> wrote:
?
Roger
"no tension", probably the connecting cable has come off the lever for one of the blend doors or
the knob itself. Not as serious as the "foam" issue. Have you had any foam coming out of any of the dash vents?
It might also be foam has come off of one, but not all the blend doors.
Yours being a '97 (like mine) it's time to address recovering the blend doors and while at it, install a new
heater core, blower motor and heater valve. The parts are inexpensive, the labor not so much.
Kent Kirkley
'97EVC
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Murphy <rogerwmurphy@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sun, Aug 1, 2021 7:08 am
Subject: [eurovanupdate] no a/c coming out of dash
1997 EVC w/135k approx. A/C still working, but only coming out of defrost and feet when using directional knob. There is no "tension" (if that is the right word) on the knob when it is moved to the dash. Is this the dreaded "foam" issue and I need to take apart the dash?
|
Re: no a/c coming out of dash
Roger
"no tension", probably the connecting cable has come off the lever for one of the blend doors or
the knob itself. Not as serious as the "foam" issue. Have you had any foam coming out of any of the dash vents?
It might also be foam has come off of one, but not all the blend doors.
Yours being a '97 (like mine) it's time to address recovering the blend doors and while at it, install a new
heater core, blower motor and heater valve. The parts are inexpensive, the labor not so much.
Kent Kirkley
'97EVC
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Murphy <rogerwmurphy@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sun, Aug 1, 2021 7:08 am
Subject: [eurovanupdate] no a/c coming out of dash
1997 EVC w/135k approx. A/C still working, but only coming out of defrost and feet when using directional knob. There is no "tension" (if that is the right word) on the knob when it is moved to the dash. Is this the dreaded "foam" issue and I need to take apart the dash?
|
no a/c coming out of dash
1997 EVC w/135k approx. A/C still working, but only coming out of defrost and feet when using directional knob. There is no "tension" (if that is the right word) on the knob when it is moved to the dash. Is this the dreaded "foam" issue and I need to take apart the dash?
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Re: Rear view mirrors move one way only
#evcrepair
Craig and Kent,?
Hey, ty both for your ideas!
Adios,
Chris
|
if it's not the ignition switch, I've seen dying batteries cause weird glitches like this. Ignition switch is $10 and an hour of your life to replace that you will regret, a new starter battery is ~$100 and about 5 minutes of your life to replace.
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On Jul 31, 2021, at 7:23 AM, sascph via groups.io <sascph@...> wrote:
Good day all,
I¡¯m dealing with a no start on my 2001 Eurovan GLS W/116k miles. I don¡¯t drive it much and it sits in the garage and am original owner. A few years ago I did the starter , a few years before that an ignition switch and brake switch.
Last year I had a rare intermittent start issue where I would get dash lights but no crank. Let it sit 10 min, then it would start. A week ago I took it out for its first ride in 6 months to Target¡15 min drive¡came out, no crank. Waited¡prayed¡and it started. Drove home back in the garage. Turned off¡tried¡no start. (I leave it on a battery tender when not used).
A couple of days later I walked past and thought to try again ¡it started. Then everyday since nothing.
Today! ¡after reading issues of other members I fiddled with the connector and got the starter to engage (ignition on) and it started! Turned it off and now no crank. By accident¡using a screw driver to reach the metal connector to ¡°clean it¡± ¡I apparently jumped the starter and it spun. (Yay!). Turned ignition on and did it again¡on purpose !!¡and it started. Turned it off and nothing again. Oddly the reverse lights were on when it was running (albeit a bit rough).
So here I am wondering ¡what could it be. Neutral safety switch ? Reverse lights an indicator?? Clean some connection somewhere ?
Sorry for the long story but thought the details as I know them might help.
Insight appreciated !
Brgds, Mark.
<22691E65-3616-43F0-B346-755D7BF290A8.jpeg>
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On Sat, Jul 31, 2021 at 09:23 AM, sascph wrote:
Neutral safety switch ? Reverse lights an indicator??
Take a look at the gear indicator on the dash.? If it's showing D instead of P, try cleaning the multifunction switch connector on the transmission.? That will keep the neutral safety circuit from allowing engine start. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 207K Miles
|
Ignition switch. Prone to breaking particularly if you have things attached to key fob
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Show quoted text
On Jul 31, 2021, at 8:24 AM, sascph via groups.io <sascph@...> wrote:
? Good day all,
I¡¯m dealing with a no start on my 2001 Eurovan GLS W/116k miles. I don¡¯t drive it much and it sits in the garage and am original owner. ?A few years ago I did the starter , a few years before that an ignition switch and brake switch.?
Last year?I had a rare intermittent start issue where I would get dash lights but no crank. Let it sit 10 min, then it would start. A week ago I took it out for its first ride in 6 months to Target¡15 min drive¡came out, no crank. Waited¡prayed¡and it started. Drove home back in the garage. Turned off¡tried¡no start. (I leave it on a battery tender when not used).?
A couple of days later I walked past and thought to try again ¡it started. Then everyday since nothing.?
Today! ¡after reading issues of other members I fiddled with the connector and got the starter to engage (ignition on) and it started! Turned it off and now no crank. By accident¡using a screw driver to reach the metal connector to ¡°clean it¡± ¡I apparently jumped the starter and it spun. (Yay!). Turned ignition on and did it again¡on purpose !!¡and it started. Turned it off and nothing again. Oddly the reverse lights were on when it was running (albeit a bit rough).?
So here I am wondering ¡what could it be. Neutral safety switch ? Reverse lights an indicator?? Clean some connection somewhere ??
Sorry for the long story but thought the details as I know them might help.?
Insight appreciated !
Brgds, Mark.? <22691E65-3616-43F0-B346-755D7BF290A8.jpeg>
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Re: Rear view mirrors move one way only
#evcrepair
Chris
The outside mirrors on Eurovans can be moved 'by hand'.
This is done to establish the 'middle' of the electric movement of the mirrors.
Run the windows down, gently push on each mirror until you see what you want in them,
sitting as you would when driving. You'll hear a sort of clicking sound.
Now try the door mounted mirror controls and see if they move each way.
Kent Kirkley
'97 EVC
-----Original Message-----
From: Craig <craig.mcclung@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 12:21 pm
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] Rear view mirrors move one way only #evcrepair
I guess you may have already tried but The ?switch in the door that controls the mirrors. Pull that and check the connector and the wires to it are tight.
Since it applicable to both mirrors I would think when the pulled the door off for repair a wire has come loose fingers crossed.
Craig 95 Camper 302K I5 5spd
On Sat, Jul 31, 2021 at 11:11 AM stupidgits < bob@...> wrote: After a hit and run, our 1995 EVC went to the body shop (again).? As part of the?
repair, the driver's mirror had to be replaced.? This was done, but now _both_?
side mirrors move out, but will not electrically move intowards the van body.??
This sounds like some sort of impedance matching, relay, or similar issue.? Is?
there a simple solution?? Anyone seen this issue?? Are we doomed?? Stay?
tuned ...
Thanks for reading down to here.
Adios,
Chris
|
Re: Rear view mirrors move one way only
#evcrepair
I guess you may have already tried but The ?switch in the door that controls the mirrors. Pull that and check the connector and the wires to it are tight.
Since it applicable to both mirrors I would think when the pulled the door off for repair a wire has come loose fingers crossed.
Craig 95 Camper 302K I5 5spd
On Sat, Jul 31, 2021 at 11:11 AM stupidgits < bob@...> wrote: After a hit and run, our 1995 EVC went to the body shop (again).? As part of the?
repair, the driver's mirror had to be replaced.? This was done, but now _both_?
side mirrors move out, but will not electrically move intowards the van body.??
This sounds like some sort of impedance matching, relay, or similar issue.? Is?
there a simple solution?? Anyone seen this issue?? Are we doomed?? Stay?
tuned ...
Thanks for reading down to here.
Adios,
Chris
|
After a hit and run, our 1995 EVC went to the body shop (again).? As part of the?
repair, the driver's mirror had to be replaced.? This was done, but now _both_?
side mirrors move out, but will not electrically move in towards the van body.??
This sounds like some sort of impedance matching, relay, or similar issue.? Is?
there a simple solution?? Anyone seen this issue?? Are we doomed?? Stay?
tuned ...
Thanks for reading down to here.
Adios,
Chris
|
Good day all,
I¡¯m dealing with a no start on my 2001 Eurovan GLS W/116k miles. I don¡¯t drive it much and it sits in the garage and am original owner. ?A few years ago I did the starter , a few years before that an ignition switch and brake switch.?
Last year?I had a rare intermittent start issue where I would get dash lights but no crank. Let it sit 10 min, then it would start. A week ago I took it out for its first ride in 6 months to Target¡15 min drive¡came out, no crank. Waited¡prayed¡and it started. Drove home back in the garage. Turned off¡tried¡no start. (I leave it on a battery tender when not used).?
A couple of days later I walked past and thought to try again ¡it started. Then everyday since nothing.?
Today! ¡after reading issues of other members I fiddled with the connector and got the starter to engage (ignition on) and it started! Turned it off and now no crank. By accident¡using a screw driver to reach the metal connector to ¡°clean it¡± ¡I apparently jumped the starter and it spun. (Yay!). Turned ignition on and did it again¡on purpose !!¡and it started. Turned it off and nothing again. Oddly the reverse lights were on when it was running (albeit a bit rough).?
So here I am wondering ¡what could it be. Neutral safety switch ? Reverse lights an indicator?? Clean some connection somewhere ??
Sorry for the long story but thought the details as I know them might help.?
Insight appreciated !
Brgds, Mark.?
|
Re: Wheels for 2002 camper
Hi Sam, I have some 16¡± eurovan steelies with hub caps. I currently have snow tires on them. Where are you located? I¡¯m in portland, or
? - Michael?
On Thu, Jul 29, 2021 at 12:18 PM Alex L < amlevy@...> wrote: Hi Sam, Do you have specs on the wheel you¡¯re looking for? I see that many EVC owners have upgraded to Audi or Mercedes wheels which should be plenty strong.? Alex On Jul 28, 2021, at 3:26 PM, sam letzring < sletz@...> wrote:
NOel Thanks Tried every shop I could think of and find on the Interenet. Lots
of wheels on Ebay for early EV's but not later ones- problem is
that the later EVC's require a very heavy duty wheel- which are
unobtanium in the US, Canada and Europe! Haven't tried Russia
yet!. I'm now trying to find someone to straighten my 2 bent ones.
Thanks for the reply
sam
On 7/28/2021 6:17 PM, Noel wrote:
My 95 came without a spare tire or wheel. I asked my local tire
shop and they referred me to a shop specializing in wheels. The
wheel shop checked the correct match, ordered it for me and I
had about 5 days later. I think it was $65 Canadian.? Check in your area for a similar shop to get a wheel.?
Noel
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Duane
Craig
