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Re: 2002 EVE Hood Latch
Alan, Another possibility is that the battery was installed in such a way as to engage the hood unlock cable, so that the latch is always in the unlocked position.? It does indicate that an inspection of the battery installation area should be examined.? I'll go out and take a look at my 2000 GLS.? My battery is currently not installed. v/r, Mike? |
Re: 2002 EVE Hood Latch
On Sat, Aug 14, 2021 at 01:42 PM, alanbragg01730 wrote:
For whatever it's worth, I should note that this started happening after a local vw shop replaced the battery.A somewhat remote possibility is that they damaged the hood release cable, preventing it from releasing completely. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 209K Miles |
Re: 2002 EVE Hood Latch
There is no obvious connection between the battery replacement and the hood latch.? If trying to engage the second latch meets with a hard stop, it's possible that the second latch somehow got engaged.? If so, you can manually release it.? If the hood just doesn't engage, the latch may need to be lubricated or somehow got miss-adjusted.? You can adjust the attachment point using the nut that holds it in place.? I hope this helps.
Jim Loomis
2002 EVC
|
2002 EVE Hood Latch
Dropping the hood will only engage the first latch hook, Pushing again does not complete the latching process.
Got any suggestions? For whatever it's worth, I should note that this started happening after a local vw shop replaced the battery. Anyone have a diagram of the latch assembly? Alan Bragg Bedford MA Original owner 200K miles |
Re: Jump starting battery
Some good ideas. Thank you.
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Paula On 08/12/2021 8:09 AM Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote: |
Re: Jump starting battery
Duane wrote:
It is possible (though definitely bad practice!) to connect aYes; a charged battery will do this for sure! The fuse saves you from worse problems. But a discharged battery can't deliver enough current to blow the fuse. That's what "sets the stage" for this sort of problem. If you install a dead battery backwards, the fuse doesn't blow. So you then charge it, either with an external charger, or by jump-starting and then letting the alternator continue charging the reversed battery. It's an unlikely scenario, but a possibility. I mentioned several others in my previous post. I'm trying to list all the possibilities, since we really don't have much to go on, and can't eliminate anything. Lee Hart -- We aren't devoting nearly enough scientific research to find a cure for the most recent pandemic; contagious stupidity. -- paraphrased from Bill Watterson (creator of "Calvin and Hobbes") -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. |
Re: Jump starting battery
Paula Hyman wrote:
Thank you for your response. Would a battery installed in reverse operate perfectly fine forHi Paula, It's not easy to reverse it. If someone puts a fully charged battery in backwards, it's likely that sparks will fly! It's likely to blow fuses, or melt wires, or kill electronics. But the usual way this happens is a) battery runs dead, b) battery is removed and charged out of the vehicle BACKWARDS (with the + and - reversed). The battery will actually charge up backwards; but will have very little amphour capacity and very short life. Such a battery will still work, but poorly. Instead of maybe a minute of cranking power, it can only crank an engine for a couple seconds. Now, there are also other possible things to check as well. 1. Maybe the alternator wasn't installed correctly, and isn't working. The van may have been running on just the battery weeks. You needed to "jump start" it only when it finally ran down too far to start it. 2. The old battery might have been damaged when the alternator failed. If you're still using the old battery, it might have finally gave out. 3. If you replaced both the battery and alternator, they might have been installed correctly, but suffered from "infant mortality". Maybe 1 out of 100 new things we buy are defective or fail soon, because manufacturers often skimp on testing to save money. ("It worked for one second; that's good enough -- ship it") 4. Maybe the terminals on your jump-starter are installed backwards? This can happen with cheap stuff from China etc. If you have a voltmeter, you can check the voltage of your battery, alternator, and jump-starter to figure out what's going on. Good luck! Lee Hart -- We aren't devoting nearly enough scientific research to find a cure for the most recent pandemic; contagious stupidity. -- paraphrased from Bill Watterson (creator of "Calvin and Hobbes") -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. |
Re: Jump starting battery
Thank you! I¡¯ll check everything as you suggest.
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On 08/11/2021 1:07 PM sam letzring <sletz@...> wrote: |
Re: Jump starting battery
IHMO- as soon as the battery were installed backwards- most of the electronics in the car would be fried ( electronics want to see a negative ground!). So- I don't think therese's anything wrong with the EV the problem is probably with the charger. If you have a multimeter- you can check the polarity of the charger Black Negative- Red Positive. I just looked up the charger and it looks like an all-right device- so just measure everything.
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sam On 8/11/2021 3:50 PM, Paula Hyman wrote:
Thank you for your response. Would a battery installed in reverse operate perfectly fine for months and then not work? Would it be able to be jump started?On 08/11/2021 12:22 PM Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote: |
Re: Jump starting battery
Thank you for your response. Would a battery installed in reverse operate perfectly fine for months and then not work? Would it be able to be jump started?
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On 08/11/2021 12:22 PM Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote: |
Re: Jump starting battery
Yes I¡¯ve used this charger before.
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On 08/11/2021 12:40 PM sam letzring <sletz@...> wrote: |
Re: Jump starting battery
If the battery were? connected backwards- a lot of other things would not work:
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The radio would not work The instrument cluster would not work The computers would be fried! I don't think the battery is backwards- more likely a defect in the charger. Had you ever used this charger before? Sam 02EVC On 8/11/2021 3:22 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
Paula Hyman wrote:A few months ago I replaced the alternator and battery in my 2001 EVC. Today I had to jump start my van. I used a TACKLIFE jump starter and connected the jump starter black connector to the negative post and the red connector to the positive post. I was immediately able to start the van. However the jump starter indicated that I had reversed the clamps (but I hadn¡¯t). I find this a little disconcerting. Any ideas why this might have happened.Could it be that your battery is connected backwards? |
Re: Jump starting battery
Paula Hyman wrote:
A few months ago I replaced the alternator and battery in my 2001 EVC. Today I had to jump start my van. I used a TACKLIFE jump starter and connected the jump starter black connector to the negative post and the red connector to the positive post. I was immediately able to start the van. However the jump starter indicated that I had reversed the clamps (but I hadn¡¯t). I find this a little disconcerting. Any ideas why this might have happened.Could it be that your battery is connected backwards? It is possible (though definitely bad practice!) to connect a lead-acid battery backwards. The alternator will charge it backwards, and actually reverse its polarity! The plus terminal becomes minus, and the minus becomes plus. The battery still (barely) works, but has very low capacity and short life. Lee Hart -- We aren't devoting nearly enough scientific research to find a cure for the most recent pandemic; contagious stupidity. -- paraphrased from Bill Watterson (creator of "Calvin and Hobbes") -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. |
Jump starting battery
A few months ago I replaced the alternator and battery in my 2001 EVC. Today I had to jump start my van. I used a TACKLIFE jump starter and connected the jump starter black connector to the negative post and the red connector to the positive post. I was immediately able to start the van. However the jump starter indicated that I had reversed the clamps (but I hadn¡¯t). I find this a little disconcerting. Any ideas why this might have happened.? Paula |
Re: EVC Solar Power 2021
It might be a bad solar controller.? When on shore power, long term, the converter output drifts up to 13.8V That is a safe charging voltage.?
Understand that the converter is regulated at 13.8 (at light or no load), but that's whats measured at the battery when the batteries are fully charged? to 12.8V? (after a half hour for the SURFACE CHARGE bleeds off)? If the batteries were discharged down to 12.2 for example, the converter voltage will sag lower due to the higher current output.? After a 24 hr whole day on shore power, you should read 13.8 volts while still connected. But If you immediately unplug from shore power, you still will read above 12.8 until that surface charge bleeds off. There are several ways to test the health of the battery.? Best is after a full charge, disconnect/isolate the battery from all sources.? Immediately log down the measured voltage.. then you will get a fakse reading above 13.0 you have to wait for the surface charge to bleed off. Wait 24 hours or better 48 hours.? Check the voltage again.? If it still read 12.6 or more its i holding the charge.? I fit drops to 12.4, its worn but still serviceable. with reduced capacity.? If after 48 hours its 12.3 the battery should be replaced.. |
Re: EVC Solar Power 2021
I have my BMV relay set to activate a Cyrix LI-CT (not the LI-charge) based on leisure battery charge level.??It is only able to charge once the battery drops below a certain point and then cuts off when it¡¯s full.??This does change the battery icon range unfortunately, so that shows empty at a low discharge level but the % gauge is still ok.
On 8 Aug 2021, 03:53 +0200, Steve via groups.io <seaweedsteve@...>, wrote: I'm back in my van and now I see the issue I have with my setup.? ?I use the BMV 702 relay programming to manage the Cyrix. Li-charge.? ? I like having control from my phone and the ability to manually open and close the relay depending.? ? ? ?So, I have found that with my vehicle, if I set (the BMV-702)? relay to close at 13.4 volts coming from the starter battery then it connects the Cyrix charging when my engine is on and the alternator is putting out some volts.? ?But I then have to set it to 13. 3 or lower to open the relay back up when the engine shuts off.? Problem is, sometimes the starter battery has that surface charge and when I shut off the motor it stays above 13.3, stays closed and the starter is actually sucking charge from the house battery.? ?And the other day, I actually plugged in my solar before the relay opened and it just stayed closed all day, effectively over charging the starter battery.? ? I can't really set my parameters any lower or it won't charge from the alternator.? ? I guess the easy thing to do would just be to wire the Li-charge to an ignition on? wire tap like the original relay does.? But I would lose control from the app for times when I want to do some custom management.? |
Re: Mechanic for 01 EV WK in Chicago?
Jonathan
Hi all.
I brought my van to Import Services in Glenview and met with Dan the owner. Both he and his partner Austin looked over the van. First, a bit of background: I bought this van new in 2001 from Autobarn in Mt. Prospect. Every single service has been performed by their shop up to this point. (Oil, filter, tune, etc.) Yes, I was one of those people that thought that the only reliable place to take care of my van was the dealer. I had a great relationship with one of their service managers., and felt I was being treated honestly and fairly. A few things recently caused me to consider looking for an independent shop. The dealership changed hands a few times in the span of 2 years. My service guy was gone. I was also given some misleading info about a "new" Interstate battery that they installed, but in fact was a VW branded battery, that looked much smaller than the space it was in. Since the battery cover is always on, I never noticed this until recently. I also had the oil leak mentioned above and after leaving the van a few days, was told not to worry about it. They didn't find anything terrible. But it always bothered me. Over to Import Service I go. After a few days, I got a call that the leak was coming from the head gasket. But it is not a leak, more like seepage they said. As soon as I heard head gasket, I immediately thought here goes thousands of dollars. In fact, to replace the head gasket, you apparently have to drop the transmission and engine to replace the $200US gasket. There was a possibility they could do it without all that, depending on a few factors. They said total cost would be ~$2000US to do that. That actually was not as bad as I thought it would be! BUT, their recommendation was to not do all that. Again, they said the seepage was minimal and they have seen worse on other EV's. What they did recommend was driving the van MORE! My EV tends to only go out of the garage to go on camping trips locally. Our trusty Toyota Corolla is the daily driver. My van has under 82000 miles on it. Most of that is highway miles. Or miles to drive to get the oil and filter! I still have 50% of my original brakes! Oil and filter is done by time, usually changed about every 6 months. I do baby this thing: zero to sixty in 90 seconds, coast to stoplights and signs, and leave about 20 car lengths between me and you. Yeah I am one of those guys! So I think I am going to just leave things as they are, try and drive a bit more. Apparently, this may even help slow down said leak. This shop is fully capable of doing the head gasket and they could have just as easily said yeah, do it. And maybe if around a few thousand, I would have. When I asked what I owed for the diagnostic, they said I don't owe them anything! I was not going to take the van unless they take some of my dough, so i told them to spend some time going over the entire van since the only service to look at it for 20 years was Autobarn. They did that and reported back that I have been taking really good care of this thing. OK, how about changing the battery since it died once over last winter?Been fine since. Since the battery was pretty new, losing charge once was probably more forgiving than one might think. They said to put a new battery when this one sounds taxed or doesn't start the van. How about wheel alignment? They asked if van was pulling left/right, un-even tire wear? I said no. They said save your money. My total cost for all this, plus my talking and asking questions endlessly was a whopping $66.00US! All that said, they will be handling all work for our 2017 Corrola from here on as well. Great guys. Most of their clients come from referrals and word of mouth. I am luck to have found Import Service. Here is to a happy marriage with them! I am hesitant to share this. I want them all to myself. Jonathan |
Re: Objet : Objet : [eurovanupdate] EVC Solar Power 2021
Yves Desilets via groups.io wrote:
Hi Lee,Yes, I can send you some photos; but they are big. Send your email address to me at leeahart@... and I can email them to you. Lee -- We aren't devoting nearly enough scientific research to find a cure for the most recent pandemic; contagious stupidity. -- paraphrased from Bill Watterson (creator of "Calvin and Hobbes") -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. |
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