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Hi Mike, Thanks for your comments. I did notice after I closed it all up and tested it all out that the front door seems to flap a little louder. That could be because of the weight of the plugs, but

The heater core has a rubber ring to seal the head to core, it get old and will leak, that’s why you would do it now while apart. Leo1998

You'd think it'd have to be the switch then as that's the only part of those two with electrical contacts.? Also, it's a relatively inexpensive part to swap out.

JD, I echo all the accolades that the others have offered.? Thank you for your post, and I need to do this, too.? Two comments- the first is that I thought that the? "best" repair to this is

Thanks Carl. I played with the parking brake while light was on with no effect but when I jiggled the key the light went out and drl came back on. Now I've got to figure out if it's the ign switch or

I swapped out a Magnetek for a Progressive Dynamics converter years ago.? If I recall correctly, I just combined the two (+) wires at the converter (+) output. According to the Winnebago wiring

Are you sure it's not the parking brake switch?? Slightly lifting up on the parking brake would have the same effect of no DRLs and dash brake light on.

Hi, I think the point is to get the Center Air Duct off the blender box, and I believe that’s the same in the pre 1997 EVC’s, if I understand the Bentley manual correctly. You’re right some

This is very helpful. I have a 1996 van, so there are probably some differences. No airbags and cup holders, for instance. I’ve seen some foam from the vents but heating and cooling still work,

Got the dash brake light on with beeping and no DRL. It's intermittent- about every 3rd drive and only beeps in Drive. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch because when I jiggle the key the light

Thanks, appreciate the PDF.??Really need to do mine one of these days too. . . . Jim

Jorrit, Thanks for this terrific write up and the resources. It’s timely as I’m about to tackle this project myself in my 2003 GLS. I’m still considering, however, possibly going with the full

I just finished repairing my ‘99EVC blender doors. As many people know, the foam that covers these doors inside the heater blender box comes off after a while, exposing the holes in these doors, and

You can also turn on the heater while going uphill to add another heat exchanger into the system!

When the coolant gets too hot, and after you shut off the engine (Bad) the water pump keeps circulating the coolant until it cools down some. The secondary pump is powered via a relay.? On my 99

On my 99, there is a sensor that tells the after run pump to run.? So I would check for 12v at the pump when the engine is running or when off and engine hot.? I "think" that 2000 is the same, not

I have replaced the brushes in these motors before, gotten a second life out of them.? The plastic gets brittle though.? It is a cool setup, the motor is not physically connected to the impeller, it

Russ The secondary coolant pump is normally a low grade hum. ?If you cannot hear it take a stethoscope (you will need to lower the front of the belly pan, so 4 bolts not the rear two nuts) to and

Bob, Mike, monicact, and Phil, Thanks for the informative replies. To my knowledge, I have not owned a vehicle with a secondary coolant pump before. My question at this point is whether or not the

Yep....if only our maintenance period was "once a year"......har har