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Re: parking brake beeping- ignition or brake switch

 

You'd think it'd have to be the switch then as that's the only part of those two with electrical contacts.? Also, it's a relatively inexpensive part to swap out.


Re: Fixing the EVC blender doors using special plugs, accessing from the front. #evcrepair

 

JD, I echo all the accolades that the others have offered.? Thank you for your post, and I need to do this, too.? Two comments- the first is that I thought that the? "best" repair to this is something that is like foam-? very light weight, but also would last a long time, preferably forever.? I think that the door was meant to be very lightweight so that it can move rapidly.? This would be most evident during a defrost cycle- the system is sending heated dry air to the windshield using both the heater and the air conditioner.? Of course I am speculating about this- don't know how this door moves- only VW knows.? You would have to have some days/weeks of how this works in order to know-? and you may not notice anything except that it now works like it should, or better than it did.? Any repair that works is all good, so we say.? Still with the first comment- are these things lightweight in what you would consider "foam" so that we would choose this instead of another thing- like duct tape?? Got an opinion on that?
Second comment-? the comment about replacing the heater core is troublesome to me in that if you have used the VW coolant you can be reasonably sure that the heater core is not deteriorating, or rusting internally.? Even other coolants are good for this prevention.? If maintenance has been done correctly, this should not be a problem.? Still, if you notice what you think is rust in the coolant, you should also look at your radiator as another suspect.? Generally, the OEM radiators are very reliable.? As was stated earlier, removing the heater core is much more work, so maybe looking at the coolant for indicators is a consideration.

HTH,? Mike


Re: parking brake beeping- ignition or brake switch

 

Thanks Carl. I played with the parking brake while light was on with no effect but when I jiggled the key the light went out and drl came back on. Now I've got to figure out if it's the ign switch or is the whole cylinder bad. Know of any test for this?

On Thu, Apr 8, 2021 at 10:15 AM Carl Henderson via <carlhenderson=[email protected]> wrote:
Are you sure it's not the parking brake switch?? Slightly lifting up on the parking brake would have the same effect of no DRLs and dash brake light on.


Re: megnetek replaced - what do I do with the 3 old wires that led to the magnetek? #prosport, #batter charger #batter

 

I swapped out a Magnetek for a Progressive Dynamics converter years ago.? If I recall correctly, I just combined the two (+) wires at the converter (+) output.

According to the Winnebago wiring diagram, the two (+) wires are blue and red. One is 'regulated' and one is 'unregulate' (also IIRC).? The blue wire goes the interior lights, refrigerator, furnace, and LP detector.? The red wire provides 12V for everything else on the camper side (water pump, monitor panel, and so on).?

The white wire to the converter is ground.


Re: parking brake beeping- ignition or brake switch

 

Are you sure it's not the parking brake switch?? Slightly lifting up on the parking brake would have the same effect of no DRLs and dash brake light on.


Re: Fixing the EVC blender doors using special plugs, accessing from the front. #evcrepair

 

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Hi,

I think the point is to get the Center Air Duct off the blender box, and I believe that¡¯s the same in the pre 1997 EVC¡¯s, if I understand the Bentley manual correctly. You¡¯re right some gloves would have been good¡­ But only very thin ones will work.

Good luck!
JD




On Apr 7, 2021, at 4:50 PM, Barry Grosman via <barrygodflat@...> wrote:

This is very helpful. I have a 1996 van, so there are probably some differences. No airbags and cup holders, for instance. I¡¯ve seen some foam from the vents but heating and cooling still work, although I avoid the higher fan levels. I wonder if?disposable gloves for mechanics might help avoid some scrapes during a repair process.
Take care,
Barry?

On Apr 6, 2021, at 9:03 PM, post@... wrote:

?I just finished repairing my ¡®99EVC blender doors. As many people know, the foam that covers these doors inside the heater blender box comes off after a while, exposing the holes in these doors, and making the heater/AC not function properly. Some people open the entire dash to get access to the blender box, a huge project, which does have the advantage that you can change the heater core as well, if needed. Others manage to tape up the holes with one hand (without being able to see what you do) from the vent on the bottom, by removing the bottom center console.?

I found a 3rd way, involving removing the radio, heating/AC controls, and knee padding under the passenger airbag. This gives you access to the Center Air Duct, which is attached to the front opening of the blender box and the vents in the middle and sides of the dash. By detaching and moving this Center Air Duct to the left, you can gain access to the blender doors from the front, with one hand. And you can sort of see what you¡¯re doing.?

I also found a set of 3D printed plugs on eBay, designed by a small auto parts company in TX for VW Jetta¡¯s and Passats of that time period. The plugs, plus a special recommended sealant work very well to cover the 20 holes. Total cost of the repair is about $40. The hard part of the job is reaching into the blender box with one hand, plugging one hole at the time. Your hand will be scratched up and you will have to do some precision work in there. I find this a more elegant solution than taping the holes with Aluminum HVAC tape.?
?

I created a PDF document outlining the procedure for people who are interested. Download it here:??

Good luck!?


Re: Fixing the EVC blender doors using special plugs, accessing from the front. #evcrepair

Barry Grosman
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

This is very helpful. I have a 1996 van, so there are probably some differences. No airbags and cup holders, for instance. I¡¯ve seen some foam from the vents but heating and cooling still work, although I avoid the higher fan levels. I wonder if?disposable gloves for mechanics might help avoid some scrapes during a repair process.
Take care,
Barry?

On Apr 6, 2021, at 9:03 PM, post@... wrote:

?I just finished repairing my ¡®99EVC blender doors. As many people know, the foam that covers these doors inside the heater blender box comes off after a while, exposing the holes in these doors, and making the heater/AC not function properly. Some people open the entire dash to get access to the blender box, a huge project, which does have the advantage that you can change the heater core as well, if needed. Others manage to tape up the holes with one hand (without being able to see what you do) from the vent on the bottom, by removing the bottom center console.?

I found a 3rd way, involving removing the radio, heating/AC controls, and knee padding under the passenger airbag. This gives you access to the Center Air Duct, which is attached to the front opening of the blender box and the vents in the middle and sides of the dash. By detaching and moving this Center Air Duct to the left, you can gain access to the blender doors from the front, with one hand. And you can sort of see what you¡¯re doing.?

I also found a set of 3D printed plugs on eBay, designed by a small auto parts company in TX for VW Jetta¡¯s and Passats of that time period. The plugs, plus a special recommended sealant work very well to cover the 20 holes. Total cost of the repair is about $40. The hard part of the job is reaching into the blender box with one hand, plugging one hole at the time. Your hand will be scratched up and you will have to do some precision work in there. I find this a more elegant solution than taping the holes with Aluminum HVAC tape.?
?

I created a PDF document outlining the procedure for people who are interested. Download it here:??

Good luck!?


parking brake beeping- ignition or brake switch

 

Got the dash brake light on with beeping and no DRL. It's intermittent- about every 3rd drive and only beeps in Drive. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch because when I jiggle the key the light goes out and beeping stops. Would a bad ignition switch cause a problem at the key area or is the whole ignition assembly at fault. Any ideas?
Spencer
02 MVWK


Re: Fixing the EVC blender doors using special plugs, accessing from the front. #evcrepair

 

Thanks, appreciate the PDF.??Really need to do mine one of these days too. . . .?
Jim
On 7 Apr 2021, 02:03 +0100, post@..., wrote:

I just finished repairing my ¡®99EVC blender doors. As many people know, the foam that covers these doors inside the heater blender box comes off after a while, exposing the holes in these doors, and making the heater/AC not function properly. Some people open the entire dash to get access to the blender box, a huge project, which does have the advantage that you can change the heater core as well, if needed. Others manage to tape up the holes with one hand (without being able to see what you do) from the vent on the bottom, by removing the bottom center console.

I found a 3rd way, involving removing the radio, heating/AC controls, and knee padding under the passenger airbag. This gives you access to the Center Air Duct, which is attached to the front opening of the blender box and the vents in the middle and sides of the dash. By detaching and moving this Center Air Duct to the left, you can gain access to the blender doors from the front, with one hand. And you can sort of see what you¡¯re doing.

I also found a set of 3D printed plugs on eBay, designed by a small auto parts company in TX for VW Jetta¡¯s and Passats of that time period. The plugs, plus a special recommended sealant work very well to cover the 20 holes. Total cost of the repair is about $40. The hard part of the job is reaching into the blender box with one hand, plugging one hole at the time. Your hand will be scratched up and you will have to do some precision work in there. I find this a more elegant solution than taping the holes with Aluminum HVAC tape.


I created a PDF document outlining the procedure for people who are interested. Download it here:

Good luck!


Re: Fixing the EVC blender doors using special plugs, accessing from the front. #evcrepair

 

Jorrit,
Thanks for this terrific write up and the resources. It¡¯s timely as I¡¯m about to tackle this project myself in my 2003 GLS. I¡¯m still considering, however, possibly going with the full dash removal to address replacing the heater core and maybe wiring for a new audio/media solution while I¡¯m in there too. You¡¯ve given us another option, so thanks for that!!
cheers /paul


Fixing the EVC blender doors using special plugs, accessing from the front. #evcrepair

 

I just finished repairing my ¡®99EVC blender doors. As many people know, the foam that covers these doors inside the heater blender box comes off after a while, exposing the holes in these doors, and making the heater/AC not function properly. Some people open the entire dash to get access to the blender box, a huge project, which does have the advantage that you can change the heater core as well, if needed. Others manage to tape up the holes with one hand (without being able to see what you do) from the vent on the bottom, by removing the bottom center console.?

I found a 3rd way, involving removing the radio, heating/AC controls, and knee padding under the passenger airbag. This gives you access to the Center Air Duct, which is attached to the front opening of the blender box and the vents in the middle and sides of the dash. By detaching and moving this Center Air Duct to the left, you can gain access to the blender doors from the front, with one hand. And you can sort of see what you¡¯re doing.?

I also found a set of 3D printed plugs on eBay, designed by a small auto parts company in TX for VW Jetta¡¯s and Passats of that time period. The plugs, plus a special recommended sealant work very well to cover the 20 holes. Total cost of the repair is about $40. The hard part of the job is reaching into the blender box with one hand, plugging one hole at the time. Your hand will be scratched up and you will have to do some precision work in there. I find this a more elegant solution than taping the holes with Aluminum HVAC tape.?
?

I created a PDF document outlining the procedure for people who are interested. Download it here:??

Good luck!?


Re: Motor Noise After Cooling Fans Stop on 2000 Eurovan Camper

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

You can also turn on the heater while going uphill to add another heat exchanger into the system!


On Apr 6, 2021, at 1:27 PM, Burton Trattner <btrattner@...> wrote:

?When the coolant gets too hot, and after you shut off the engine (Bad) the water pump keeps circulating the coolant until it cools down some.?
The secondary pump is powered via a relay.? On my 99 Rilata at some time, it would not shut off.? Next day, i find a dead cab battery.? Ice relay is under the dash and only costs a few bucks at advanced auto.? I dont member the relay location tho.

If you are running hot after a long hill climb and you want to cool down...dont shut off the engine.? Instead raise the hood and let the fans and circulation coolant dissipate the heat.

Another trick if driving in steep mountainous terrain,? Do not use D.? Instead manual downshift.? This by passes the auto slip clutch which is what the small engine does if it needs to raise rpm for more power.


Re: Motor Noise After Cooling Fans Stop on 2000 Eurovan Camper

 

When the coolant gets too hot, and after you shut off the engine (Bad) the water pump keeps circulating the coolant until it cools down some.?
The secondary pump is powered via a relay.? On my 99 Rilata at some time, it would not shut off.? Next day, i find a dead cab battery.? Ice relay is under the dash and only costs a few bucks at advanced auto.? I dont member the relay location tho.

If you are running hot after a long hill climb and you want to cool down...dont shut off the engine.? Instead raise the hood and let the fans and circulation coolant dissipate the heat.

Another trick if driving in steep mountainous terrain,? Do not use D.? Instead manual downshift.? This by passes the auto slip clutch which is what the small engine does if it needs to raise rpm for more power.


Re: Motor Noise After Cooling Fans Stop on 2000 Eurovan Camper

 

On my 99, there is a sensor that tells the after run pump to run.? So I would check for 12v at the pump when the engine is running or when off and engine hot.? I "think" that 2000 is the same, not sure about the rest.


Re: Motor Noise After Cooling Fans Stop on 2000 Eurovan Camper

 

I have replaced the brushes in these motors before, gotten a second life out of them.? The plastic gets brittle though.? It is a cool setup, the motor is not physically connected to the impeller, it is magnetic.? The motor spins and the magnetic attraction spins the impeller.


Re: Motor Noise After Cooling Fans Stop on 2000 Eurovan Camper

Phil
 

Russ
The secondary coolant pump is normally a low grade hum. ?If you cannot hear it take a stethoscope (you will need to lower the front of the belly pan, so 4 bolts not the rear two nuts) to and listen to it after stopping the (up to full temperature engine). ?If you cannot hear it, take a small rubber mallet and tap it lightly. If you still cannot hear it, check for voltage at the connectors to it. ?Assuming you get voltage showing (I believe 12 vts) if no sound, replace it. ?If no voltage, try driving to confirm it was fully up to temperature and repeat. A scanguage, if you have one confirms this, not the temp guage on the cluster (it will show 190 anywhere between about 170? And 210? Roughly). ?With 132 kmi you are probably due. Normally if I listen closely just after the engine turns off, and the fans are not running, I can hear the secondary pump as a very quiet hum if I go to the front of the radiators or put my head below the bumper, under these conditions, if the surroundings are quiet. If not I know it¡¯s shot. This scenario is true for even a brand new pump. ?I¡¯m sure mine is getting near replacement. ?By the way, my experience is that they make that hum until they don¡¯t (in which it¡¯s shot), and it¡¯s not like it gets loud or makes some other noise before failing- it either works or doesn¡¯t, if you need to tap it to get it going it¡¯s shot.
others experience might be different. ?Hope that helps.
Happy trails
Phil B 2003 EV WE AXK 286 kmi


Re: Motor Noise After Cooling Fans Stop on 2000 Eurovan Camper

 

Bob, Mike, monicact, and Phil,

Thanks for the informative replies. To my knowledge, I have not owned a vehicle with a secondary coolant pump before.

My question at this point is whether or not the pump is working normally. I cannot ever recall hearing it run after the cooling fans stop and it is fairly loud.
I am wondering if it might need replacement as it has likely been operating in the background without my noticing it. My camper has 132 K and I have had it for eight years and driven it about 36 k. Any additional insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Russ


Re: Rear wheel bearing replacement

 

Yep....if only our maintenance period was "once a year"......har har


Re: Rear wheel bearing replacement

 

it took way too much time to do that post and I was reminded why I only do about one per year! But glad you enjoyed it.?


justin


Re: Motor Noise After Cooling Fans Stop on 2000 Eurovan Camper

 

Just a heads up, these pumps should definitely be replaced after some years (2 decades or so).

I had one fall apart on me while driving up the Grapevine into LA and that ended up causing an overheat condition that warped the block.

It shouldn't generally make noise, you should just hear the fans running

On Sat, Apr 3, 2021, 04:59 Phil <apothecarymortar@...> wrote:
Indeed as others have said, it¡¯s the secondary water pump. I occasionally make an effort to notice it so as to confirm it¡¯s functioning properly, typically twice a year, as well as the fans, after engine shutdown, (which are very obvious). it¡¯s just one of those items I watch to make sure all is happy.? I¡¯ve replaced mine once, long ago, at about 100 kmi, when it started to fail, only functioning when tapped on. The replacement has worked for over 180k, so I figure it was a quirk, probably due in part to salt on roads up north.? It¡¯s a real low hum typically.
Phil B. 2003 EV WE 286 kmi