开云体育

Welcome Bruce,

Yes it does appear bt looking at these forums that all we do is work on our
vans and camping or traveling is secondary. The reality is quite different.
We all love our vans --or they would be gone.

Wishing you many years of V-Dub fun
Forest

I'm a new EVC owner. I picked up a '97 EVC with 66K miles and an
already-rebuilt tranny back in February. It's not a daily driver and
I've only put a few hundred miles on it. I've had a few frustrations
with it and have spent more than I wanted to on "minor" repairs at
the dealer. Since purchasing it I've become a very regular lurker
here and at the Samba, Vortex, etc. Spend to much time doing that and
one can become afraid to pull the van away from the curb.

Well last weekend I FINALLY got mine out for its maiden camping trip.
It was just one night to meet some friends who had gone out the day
before and secured a good riverside spot in the woods. One hundred
miles from Seattle - the last 17 miles on Forest Service roads that
climed a couple thousand feet over a gnarly pass to a riverside
campsite at the base of a mountain. The EVC performed like a champion
and everyone at camp lusted after the comfy sleeping arrangements,
fridge, running water, heater and stove. It was a joy to hit the road
with minimal gear and then pack up in about five minutes in the
morning for the ride back.

I'll post some pics soon but I just wanted to put a positive post out
here in EV land so we don't forget the reasons we put up with these
tempermental beasts to begin with.

Bruce

Seattle

Hi Garrett -

I bought a Honda EU2000i 2KW genset several years ago,
& enjoy using it occasionally. Starts with 1 pull. I
thought of getting TWO of the Honda EU1000i [1KW] +
'Y' cable that allows you to sync them when 1 won't
handle your load.

The EU2000i lacks less than 1" fitting under the
removable board in the center rear EVC luggage space.
TWO EU1000i MAY fit, but I know one will, lashed to
seat belt anchors.

You can power your converter/charger to charge bats,
as well as use the Honda [6A?] DC for charging. The
Twin-Bullet DC charging cable w/bat clips is an option.

Also, there is an optional 'Running time meter' that
picks up high V from ignition, which is handy. Sears
has a similar meter on sale at my local store [$5],
but not sure if it is national or local.

One yachting site you may want to look at is:

genset-suggestions-10529.html

They have some warnings about the "Chinese copies" of
the Honda units - w/cheaper price, poor parts & service,
+ a tale of woe.

FYI, I was at a Ham Radio flea market about 8 years ago,
& after talking to a guy at his display table for about
10 minutes, I asked him where he was getting his power
from. He laughed, & pointed to his Honda under the table,
with his feet on it! We had been talking at normal levels.

After running mine for about 30 mins, I looked at the
thimble-looking exhaust port, & swiped it with my finger.
It was warm, but I was able to touch it w/o pain. I had
wondered why it was so close to the plastic.

The sine wave output wave-form is so clean, & precise,
it is said to be cleaner than some USA commercial power.
I ran my home refrigerator/freezer for 24 hours during a
power outage, & was running an ext. cord to next door
neighbor's house when the power came back on. I'm sure
it would have run his, as well. I was standing over the
Honda while it was idling in 'Economy Mode', when the
'fridge came on. It burped up to speed to take the load.

When I first ran the genset for about 30 minutes, & shut
it off, I touched the tiny,thimble sized exhaust port. It was
just a bit too hot to keep my finger on it. My old 1939
Onan 1KW had a muffler that would heat a room for 30
mins after shut down. It had a starter - thankfully.

I ran out of gas once, made a paper funnel, & poured the
Honda into my EVC tank. I was wishing for the 1KW model,
instead of my 50# gas can.

One Honda source in NJ, with free CONUS shipping, is
www.Mayberry.com/generators. They supposedly have good
service, but most of us never need it. They had mine at my
door in 3 days, & have been around for many years.

A handy Honda accessory is their elapsed running time / RPM
dual purpose meter [$49]. My local Sears store has a similar
meter, running hours only, on sale now for $5.00.

Regards,

Jack_son
================
--- In ev_update@..., "Garrett" <garrett.elists@...>
wrote:

Hi,

Am in the intial stages of considering a portable generator to
operate a small window-A/C unit (about 6,000 BTU).

I had read that any generator used for an A/C unit would require a
200-percent (or more) reserve wattage requirement to help any A/C
unit on intial start up. I don't know if that is accurate or not.

I thought that A/C units have a capacitor that will send a jolt of
higher wattage through the A/C circuit to get the initial jump

going

on the electric motor. The idea being that you don't want to suck
your entire house current down to zero for five seconds every time
the A/C unit kicks in, so the capacitor supplys this intial hit for
the unit instead of the house. If this is true, doesn't that

counter

the previous paragraph about needing extra capacity for a generator?

The A/C units I looked at (Home Depot and Lowe's) all were pretty
straight forward. It seems that roughly 1/10 of the BTUs equals

the

rated wattage. (i.e. 5,000 BTU is about 500 Watts... 6,000 BTU is
about 600 Watts) Unless these manufacturers are just blowing

smoke?

500W seems awfully LOW to me. What do you say?

The small, portable generators all seem to start at around 1,000
watts and go upward to 3,000 or more.

Here is a nice looking Yamaha (2400 watts peak/2000 continuous):



Here is another Yamaha (1000 watts/900 continuous):



My question to the electrical engineers (or electrically smart

folks)

is this: will a small generator like the Yamaha and Honda units
(around 1500 to 2500 Watts) run a small window A/C unit easily and
comfortably? (Window A/C unit around 5,000 BTU to 7,500 BTU,

Wattage

requirements about 500W to 800W)

Somewhere in Yamaha's website, it explained that their 3000W

portable

unit was large enough to power a small home A/C unit. That made me
wonder why they didn't say the same thing in the verbiage for the
smaller wattage units they sell? (i.e. 2400W machine)

Is anyone on this list using a small generator to power a small A/C
unit? How's that working for you??

Thanks!!

Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"

My fridge wouldn't light for our weekend trip last week so I took an
ice chest and decided to work on it during the week. A while back it
was lighting fine and going out while driving--that turned out to be a
broken vent cover. I pulled the unit yesterday and inside the burner
box was a piece of metal right between the burner and the
thermocoupler. I figure it dislodged while I was banging on it while
doing the vacuum trick and took a bit to work it's way down.

While I was in the burner box I went to brush the flue out and lo and
behold there is a cleaning rod in there. Norcold did provide one to
CYA in case of future complaints. The rub is , is in order to get to
it you have to remove the unit and disconnect the top of the flue. The
cleaning tube is wired into where they join!

This is by far the most complicated fridge I have ever seen to take
care of.

Forest
95 EVC

Might be the coolant temperature the ECM is seeing is wrong and feeding too much gas. As my dad told me years ago you need compression, gas and spark to run a engine. Verify if you have spark. I've seen on a boat a friend bought that had been sitting for years that stale gas invisibly fouled new spark plugs where it would run like you described.

Joe R

Garrett.

This gets brought up a lot on the travel trailer forums I belong to. First on the capacitor. What your describing is a "soft start" kit and it is a second capacitor because AC's already have one as you stated. The 200% for certain motor types is correct. The inverter generators have a relativity high starting capacity but a lot of users need the soft start also.

The 2000/2400 watt Yamaha generator you linked to is a "inverter" generator and will run a AC unit in the range your looking at but you may still want/need a soft start hit. The smaller one is a inverter model also but is not big enough. They are very quiet and only run as fast as needed. They generate a DC voltage then the inverter part changes it to 60 cycle 120 volts. A 2000 unit will not run a AC and microwave oven at the same time though. Both Honda and Kipor also make similar but smaller size ones. The Honda is expensive but seems to be the most favored but the Yamaha is developing a good following. Kipor had a wide open marketing but no service network and you were dependent on where you got it. They have since regrouped their marketing and service and the price advantage they once had is not as good.



The Yamaha has more output and would be the better one in my opinion. It will also power a couple things in your house in a power outage.

Stay away from a cheaper 3600 rpm noisy units so you can hear yourself think!

Joe R

I love the way companies take a generic product and try to make it a
proprietary product.

ABS is Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. Luran is "styrene acrylonitrile
copolymers that have been impact-modified with

acrylic ester rubber." The "acrylic ester rubber" is the butadiene
co-polymer. Polybutadiene (a rubbery compound) is grafted onto the
styrene-acrylonitrile chains, and converts a brittle polymer into a much
tougher material.



It's a good product, but without the glass fiber reinforcing that fiberglass
has, it can crack more easily if over-stressed.



Stuart





_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of Garrett
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 12:01 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Pop Top mattress storage question




jadrma1 wrote:

When I store my two foam mattresses along with the hinged platform
squished into the narrow space between the roof and the poptop it

seems

to be way too tight

No, don't do that! ;)

Unless, of course you are okay with putting way-too-much stress on
your poptop and fostering problems in short order.

Too tight is, in fact, TOO TIGHT!!

Someone mentioned ABS for the poptop material. Here is the actual
composition of the High Grade ABS:

The roof is BASF LuranR S

"styrene acrylonitrile copolymers that have been impact-modified with
acrylic ester rubber"

Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"

Hi,

Am in the intial stages of considering a portable generator to
operate a small window-A/C unit (about 6,000 BTU).

I had read that any generator used for an A/C unit would require a
200-percent (or more) reserve wattage requirement to help any A/C
unit on intial start up. I don't know if that is accurate or not.

I thought that A/C units have a capacitor that will send a jolt of
higher wattage through the A/C circuit to get the initial jump going
on the electric motor. The idea being that you don't want to suck
your entire house current down to zero for five seconds every time
the A/C unit kicks in, so the capacitor supplys this intial hit for
the unit instead of the house. If this is true, doesn't that counter
the previous paragraph about needing extra capacity for a generator?

The A/C units I looked at (Home Depot and Lowe's) all were pretty
straight forward. It seems that roughly 1/10 of the BTUs equals the
rated wattage. (i.e. 5,000 BTU is about 500 Watts... 6,000 BTU is
about 600 Watts) Unless these manufacturers are just blowing smoke?
500W seems awfully LOW to me. What do you say?

The small, portable generators all seem to start at around 1,000
watts and go upward to 3,000 or more.

Here is a nice looking Yamaha (2400 watts peak/2000 continuous):



Here is another Yamaha (1000 watts/900 continuous):



My question to the electrical engineers (or electrically smart folks)
is this: will a small generator like the Yamaha and Honda units
(around 1500 to 2500 Watts) run a small window A/C unit easily and
comfortably? (Window A/C unit around 5,000 BTU to 7,500 BTU, Wattage
requirements about 500W to 800W)

Somewhere in Yamaha's website, it explained that their 3000W portable
unit was large enough to power a small home A/C unit. That made me
wonder why they didn't say the same thing in the verbiage for the
smaller wattage units they sell? (i.e. 2400W machine)

Is anyone on this list using a small generator to power a small A/C
unit? How's that working for you??

Thanks!!

Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"

jadrma1 wrote:

When I store my two foam mattresses along with the hinged platform
squished into the narrow space between the roof and the poptop it

seems

to be way too tight

No, don't do that! ;)

Unless, of course you are okay with putting way-too-much stress on
your poptop and fostering problems in short order.

Too tight is, in fact, TOO TIGHT!!

Someone mentioned ABS for the poptop material. Here is the actual
composition of the High Grade ABS:

The roof is BASF Luran庐聽S

"styrene acrylonitrile copolymers that have been impact-modified with
acrylic ester rubber"

Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"

Neil,

Find someone nearby with a Vag Com!

Stuart, in Seattle and have a Vag Com

I like this idea. I would start by bleeding the clutch line which
just takes a few minutes and visually inspect the components.

--- In ev_update@..., "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@...>
wrote:

Has to be a clutch problem. Anything from the master to the clutch

itself.

Could be a swollen (blocked) hose that is not allowing the throw-

out bearing

to retract or a bad master cylinder. I'd start with the

hydraulics,

easiest and cheapest first. When did you last replace the clutch?



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...]

On Behalf

Of hilary.veen
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 8:27 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] 5-speed transmission problems



Hi there,

We have a 1984 Diesel Eurovan (with Westfalia). Here's the problem:
As soon as we've been cruising on the highway for a while, but then
have to downshift to 4th to go up a hill, the gear shift goes into
spasm and we cannot shift after that into any gear, or we have to
force it, or stop at the side of the road, turn off the engine and
start again. Two different shops couldn't find anything. Does

anyone

know what it could be? We don't even want to drive the thing now!

Hilary





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I know there is no maintenance interval for the manual transmission
oil, but I would change it as long as you are fiddling around. Make
sure it is SAE 75W90 synthetic. Once you have the lower pan off for
your other work, it only takes a few minutes.

I have never had a VW van yet (and I have owned every model made) that
didn't shift better with a tranny oil change every few years. My 95 EVC
shifted stiffly when cold, but great when warm. I changed the oil using
Mobil 1 synthetic per the Bentley specs, and now it shifts like butter
always. From the odor of the old fluid, I think the oil in there was
dino oil not synthetic, although I have all of the cars records and no
oil change was apparent.

I also noticed in the Bentley on page K 34-23 thru 34-24 there is a
detailed description of linkage adjusting. It might be worth a peek at
that to make the linkage reassembly go smoother.

Let us know how things work out.

Pete

Has to be a clutch problem. Anything from the master to the clutch itself.
Could be a swollen (blocked) hose that is not allowing the throw-out bearing
to retract or a bad master cylinder. I'd start with the hydraulics,
easiest and cheapest first. When did you last replace the clutch?



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of hilary.veen
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 8:27 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] 5-speed transmission problems



Hi there,

We have a 1984 Diesel Eurovan (with Westfalia). Here's the problem:
As soon as we've been cruising on the highway for a while, but then
have to downshift to 4th to go up a hill, the gear shift goes into
spasm and we cannot shift after that into any gear, or we have to
force it, or stop at the side of the road, turn off the engine and
start again. Two different shops couldn't find anything. Does anyone
know what it could be? We don't even want to drive the thing now!

Hilary

Jack,



The bed is supposed to be left fully open for storage. This is a major
deficiency of the EVC design, but a necessary compromise to allow the van to
fit under a standard 7' garage door opening. The Vanagon Westy had the
space between the top and the body to allow the bed to fold in half for
storage (top rose up higher too), and still cleared a 7' garage door because
the van was not as tall.



I don't use the upper bunk, so it's in storage, and my memory foam topper
for the lower bed folds in half and fits in the space you are trying to
stuff the upper bunk into.



Don't do that anymore, you risk damaging the top and the hinges. The top is
ABS, not fiberglass, and can crack!



Stuart

'97 EVC



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of jadrma1
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 7:31 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Pop Top mattress storage question



When I store my two foam mattresses along with the hinged platform
squished into the narrow space between the roof and the poptop it seems
to be way too tight and I hear an occasional thumping noise as I drive
which I think is caused by the air-tightness of the poptop seal being
compromised towards the front of the poptop. When I don't store these
items in my '95 EVC the stange noise does not occur. Question, should
the hinged platform be fully extended and the two mattresses in the
sleeping position when driving? This would reduce the thickness
considerably. What is the proper way to store this equipment when
driving? -Jack

Jack,
According to my '95 Winnie-beggar manual, the hinged bed board has to
be flat, not folded double when the top is closed. Whether or not the
mattress can be left in place isn't perfectly clear as I read the
manual. Here is the text, you tell me:
"Important: The upper bed must be stored in the user position (flat)
for the pop-up roof to lower and latch properly. If you need extra
headroom while the roof is closed, remove the bed board and mattress
from the support rails before lowering the roof, then store in the rear
area or remove from the vehicle."

Now, I'd love to store the memory-foam mattress topper up top, but have
the same problem you mentioned with the top not closing fully. I have
considered installing some external latches to snug the top down and
compress the foam but it seems a bit kludgy. I'm interested in others'
opinions on this...

Ken in AK

--- In ev_update@..., "jadrma1" <jadrma@...> wrote:

When I store my two foam mattresses along with the hinged platform
squished into the narrow space between the roof and the poptop it

seems

to be way too tight... (snip) >

IIRC there are two nylon balls and a nylon bushing in the linkage on
top of the tranny. I've had the pleasure of only 3rd and 4th three
times, and I believe the order of failure was large ball, small ball,
bushing. There was at least a year or two between each failure. I
think Steve at Europarts sells a kit with all the pieces and
recommends replacing them all at once.

Replacing the components is not technically difficult, but access is a
bit of a pain and it can take some perseverance.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

When I store my two foam mattresses along with the hinged platform
squished into the narrow space between the roof and the poptop it seems
to be way too tight and I hear an occasional thumping noise as I drive
which I think is caused by the air-tightness of the poptop seal being
compromised towards the front of the poptop. When I don't store these
items in my '95 EVC the stange noise does not occur. Question, should
the hinged platform be fully extended and the two mattresses in the
sleeping position when driving? This would reduce the thickness
considerably. What is the proper way to store this equipment when
driving? -Jack

There is a snubber that ads friction to the button so the weight will
not let it slide down and actuate the locks. Wrap a little electrical
tape around the base of the plastic plunger. This will keep it from
dropping down by it's self.

揟hou believest that there is one God; Thou doest well . . .� James 2:19



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jack,

The top bunk should always be stored flat, opened out as when ready to
use. I don't have the Winnebago book with me at work right now, but I
believe this is the preferred way to keep the top bunk. You could also
remove both mattresses and store them in your attic during off season and
in that case you could leave the support portion of your upper bed folded
back to give you lots more headroom when not camping. Originally your top
bunk came enclosed in large clear, heavy-duty plastic bag for storage when
not in use.

That should take care of the problem for you. Regards,

John Harkins
[Dad's 2002 EVC currently for sale]

When you say it wouldn't turn over, do you mean you turn the key and nothing happens? The starter doesn't turn the engine?

Maybe a bad starter, or bad ignition switch?

There are so many problems that can cause misfires. I have been fighting this on my '99 GLS for around 8 months now.

If you have a bad speed sensor it should throw a code, and you will have problems with your speedometer. I replaced mine recently as the speedometer would stop working sometimes while going down the road. It was very easy to replace.

Use a spray bottle and mist the coil with the engine running and see if you get your rough running to return. You can also mist each plug wire.

Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk