开云体育

Ensure that both ends of the cable are attached.

Bob W.

What tells you that the outlet is inoperative? The cooler requires a good
amount of electricity to work; an old battery may light the lights but be
inadequate for the cooler.

Follow the wire from the inoperative outlet and you should find a fuse under
the driver's seat. If the fuse is good, continue tracking back until a
break is found.

It is a simple circuit.

On my '93 Weekender, there was outlet under the table. Yours may be an
add-on.

Bob W.

Alas, Weekenders lack a stove.

Bob W

There is always the old style stove top espresso maker. My wife loves
hers.; It takes about two minutes to make a cup of coffee.

Forest

yes, it is the original cooler and the power cord attaches to an outlet on the black plastic
cover under the drivers seat. this outlet is not working.
as for the outlet under the table, the same plug for the cooler doesn't fit in this and i have no
idea what would. it is a penny size round hole and the manual says nothing about it other
than where it is located and all my google searchs have turned up empty.

Hello - I own a 2005 JettaWagon TDI which I love, but my growing
family requires that I get a new car. In December, I will have three
kids (got two now). Have not figured a way to put three kids seats in
a 2005 JettaWagon!

I like the Eurovan - read lots of good (and bad) on its quality. I
guess I am in the market for a 2003, also looking at the Routan. I
don't like the idea of teh Routan not being a true German engineered
VW, and the fact I can get the same basic type model from the
Chrysler dealer and get it cheaper!

So - is the 2003 Eurovan pretty good on average for a family van?
Which model do I look for if I want the moonroof and heated seats?
Any plusses on buying the dealer VW certified ones (of which at the
time of this posting there are three to pick from on VW's website)?

Also, I know you guys and girls own other VW's. do the newer (2007
and later) VW Wagons in the US offer any more width in the rear seats
for accomadating three kids seats (two for 3 year olds, 1 for a
newborn).

Thanks!

Sam

--- In ev_update@..., "David" <starsailor111@...> wrote:

1993 -- removed instrument cluster to perform voltage stsbilizer fix.

With cluster reinstalled I am having a devil of a time getting the
speedometer cable to seat properly. I got it to where I thought it was
ok, but speedometer needle doesn't move.

Is there some technique/trick to get the cable seated?

From just basic understanding of speedo cables, I'd undo the other end
of the cable, hoping for more access/room. Undo it and see if you can
rotate the inner wire in order to seat it. I've had this issue in the
past with other vehicles.

I had to crimp the the tabs that hold the bulb on my 03 MV to get the
bulbs to work consistently. Both front turn signals were intermitently
affected. Seems to be pretty common problem on this vehicle.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

Hi Robert,

Do you have the orginal cooler that fits under the rear-facing jump
seat behind the driver's seat?

Are you hooking it up using the socket mounted in the black plasic
that covers the back of the driver's seat base?

I don't have the factory under-seat cooler - never had it. What I
did in my my van was get a 200w inverter (enough for a laptop) with a
12v Pass-through socket, and wired it to the Aux battery under the
seat. The inverter just lays on the floor between the jump seat and
the driver's seat, I have one those Coleman 12v coolers that fits
between the front seats and I plug it in to the inverter's 12v
socket. I use the 110v to power a laptop, or the kids' DVD player,
or recharge batteries/cellphones etc. Having these things on the
Aux. battery mands I can always start the van...

The 110v outlet under my table is a regular home 110v electric
socket, so I can't help there. It is just the other end of a short
wire that goes to the socket on the outside of the van, I don't think
there is an inverter in there.

I don't know about running an Espresso Maker from an inverter... how
much current do they draw? Probably more than 200 watts. You might
need a pretty heavy-duty inverter to do this. On the other hand, I
have seen some propane-powered espesso makers in stores :)

To slide the driver's seat forward enough to get at the Aux batery,
there's a grey metal handle you need to pull out on the right side of
the driver's seat (by parking brake). It looks like part of the seat
track and is a bit hard to find. You need to pull on the black
handle on the door (left) side of the seat as well. There are
instructions in the owner's manual with pictures.

Good luck

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

--- In ev_update@..., "Robert" <rob@...> wrote:

greetings. okay the cooler under the middle seat doesn't work

plugged into the aux battery

under the drivers seat but works fine if i plug it into the

dashboard lighter outlet. both

overhead cabin lights work so i am assuming the fuse for the aux

battery outlets is blown.

how do i change this?
also what do i use to plug into the outlet under the table...i

can't seem to find info on what

type of converter/inverter will work with this strangely sized

outlet. i would want something

that is safe to run small appliances like a laptop, espresso maker,

etc.

thanks for any help!

1993 -- removed instrument cluster to perform voltage stsbilizer fix.

With cluster reinstalled I am having a devil of a time getting the
speedometer cable to seat properly. I got it to where I thought it was
ok, but speedometer needle doesn't move.

Is there some technique/trick to get the cable seated?

I'm getting ready for a fairly long trip next month and am wondering
if the 235-16s will fit on my 95 EVC without putting the lift kit on.
I was planning on doing the whole job at the end of this summer, but
my wife wants to take the grandson to Washington to see Mt. St.
Helens. I was only planning short trips for summer.

Thanks, Forest

Did you guys flag this on Craigslist? They'll check it out.



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of KG KIRKLEY
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 11:36 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] RE: Re: In the Market for Eurovan bet 2000 to 2004



I also responded, asking to look at the EVC and got the same response.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC

I also responded, asking to look at the EVC and got the same response.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC

All,

I feel obligated to let everyone know, this craigslist listing does indeed
appear to be a scam. I replied to the listing, wanting to look at the EV
and this is the response I got. Read below.



Mark,



I'm sorry for my late response but I had a buyer offering me the buy it now
price, but unfortunately his loan didn't get approved.There has been nothing
altered in the mileage represented on this vehicle. The perfect non-smoker
vehicle from a non-smoker owner. This fine auto has never had any repairs
done to the body due to collisions.The transmission in this vehicle still
shifts like it did when it was brand new. The engine has checked out okay.
There are no electrical concerns associated with this vehicle. The exterior
condition on this vehicle is extra clean. For a used auto, the interior is
not only extra clean but also smells extra clean.
If you want to buy it, e-mail me with any questions that you may have.You
can see more pictures of the car here:

Thanks,

Mihai Marinescu
Feltwell Air Force Base,
Thetford (Norfolk),
United Kingdoms



My apologies for posting an apparently bogus ad to the list.



Mark



Western PA



USA



Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 10:41 AM

To: 'ev_update@...'
Subject: Re: In the Market for Eurovan bet 2000 to 2004



I saw this on the Pittsburgh Craigslist. I realize you are looking for a
MV, but here you go.







Best regards,



Mark



Western PA

Hi all,

I'm pretty sure the bushings on the stabilizer link of my 1997 MV are
worn out. How difficult is it to replace the stabilizer link? Is it
something a resourceful driveway mechanic can do or does it require a
lift and/or special tools to remove and install? Looks pretty
straight forward, but wanted to check in to see who's done it. Any
tips are appreciated.

Thanks,

Brenden

Maybe it's something like HAL, the mis-programmed computer in "2001 - A Space
Oddesy" that reported a pending failure of a part outside the spacecraft so it could lock
the astronauts out and take control itself. Be careful!

Dave

No, unfortunately. You can try him yourself at mailto:gomi_otaku@...



That is a stumper.



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of mike shea
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 10:09 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: RE: [ev_update] multiple problems after replacing power steering
rack




hi stuart

it looks like i may have stumped some folks here. i haven't gotten any
replies other than yours. any word from gomi?
peace
mike

From: "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@comcast. <mailto:macgroup%40comcast.net>

net>

Reply-To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
To: <ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>

ps.com>,<gomi_otaku@yahoo. <mailto:gomi_otaku%40yahoo.com> com>

Subject: RE: [ev_update] multiple problems after replacing power steering
rack
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 22:30:13 -0700

I've forwarded this to Gomi, the real expert on the list. There must be
something you left (or accidentally) unplugged... You should be getting a
read when you connect to the OBD II socket. Is your reader working? Do
you
have a VAG-COM?



FWIW, A couple of years ago I was helping my son install an iPod interface
in his leased Passat, and when we finished the air bag light came on. We
took the interface out, and the dealer had to replace the air bag something
or other. Under warranty. So, good luck!



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com

[mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On

Behalf
Of mike shea
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 10:10 PM
To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Subject: [ev_update] multiple problems after replacing power steering rack




2000 gl

yesterday i replaced my steering rack, left drive axel, and left front abs
sensor. i had the downpipe for the exhaust out, and both o2 sensors
unplugged. i also had unplugged the connector that goes into the side of
the

tranny. everything went well for the most part. when all was finished
though

i was left with some problems. my check engine light is on and i can't get
any signal to the connector to read the code. the airbag warning indicator
is lit on the dash. my gear on the dash shows in drive all the time even
when in park, neutral, etc.

any thoughts on what might be going on here?
i'd love some advice as to where to look.
thanks
mike

hi stuart

it looks like i may have stumped some folks here. i haven't gotten any replies other than yours. any word from gomi?
peace
mike

4 weeks ago, I bent a rod in my well loved EV. I was sick to my
stomach. I found little in the way of VR6 AXK motors. One used one
was $4000 for a long block. That was just wrong.

My motor had 170k fwy miles on it. Seems high, but the thing ran like
a champ. Choices were to find a donor, or rebuild. I looked at all
the costs of a rebuild, and time away, and it wasn't a great option
either. My motor needed a timing chain tensioner examination, as per
typical mileage. It also needed a new WP, as per mileage.

A quick a dirty option was to pull everything and shove in a new rod
and or piston.

I found a new remanufactured VR6 longblock for $1999 shipped. It was
a BDF motor. I could find no one, no source, to tell me if the blocks
would work, line up with the tranny, and or if the heads would fit in
nicely. This block would be a automatic block. The block had a new
head, all new seals, a seal kit for the rest of the install, new
cams/chains/tensioners. All this assembled by the factory, with full
test readouts of oil pump pressure and cylinder PSI.

The motor arrived and the old motor was in the van. One tranny
bolt/dowel wouldn't line up, about 1.4" different.

Long story short, I ground a channel in the block to make the bolt
slide by into the original tranny hole. This allowed the substantial
head of the M12 bolt to grab the back of the block, and hold it tight.

Lessons:
1. A BDF block and head works just fine. YOU NEED A MANUAL BLOCK,
unless you want to grind the channel through 1" of iron like me.
2. The tranny can stay in place, with the axles, balljoints, etc,
while the long block gets pulled out through the front of the van. I
did this with the front of the van lifted about 6-8" off the ground.
3. The cam sensors wires are the same darn plug, since it uses the
same sensor part. Make sure you mark this, or take pics. I plugged
them in wrong, and luckily the van drives just fine. Power was down a
tad and it threw a code.
4. With the tranny in place, installing the engine was a big task. It
took 4 of us with a engine hoist, and a jack, and 2 hours to fit it.
The angle of the block presents the biggest problem, along with the
stock lifting points of the engine.
5. That special engine jack mount (bolts to bottom of block) shown in
the manual would be a lifesaver for the install. That would have
saved 2 hours for us.
6. Don't start this job without the 6 and 10mm triple box drivers.
You'll need the 12 for the axles or head bolts.
7. Part way through the 2002 model year, VW changed the WP on the EV.
The later VINs use the same WP as the BDF motors.
8. Buy all new exhaust nuts. They are crush nuts, and are not common
to find. Don't doublenut install studs with the old crush nuts,
they'll ruin the threads of the new studs. Use some 8.8 or higher nuts.
9. My WP impeller had ~1/2 of its blades worn/broken away. Stupid
plastic part. This most likely caused my old tranny temp to be 10+ F
higher than typical.
10. Those fuel injector seals are a small fortune. Don't ruin them.
If you need them, your dealer has them for $22/ea set. You need 6
sets! Cheapest online was around $15/set. Lame for 3 ordinary black
rubber o-rings.

We installed the motor back in and fitted all the panels and drove the
van within 6 hours. I'm a happy 'camper' again. :-)

As a super bonus, I bought a Scangauge/Xgauge thing. They have a code
that you can input and it displays tranny temp!!! How cool is that!
On a small little gauge face, I can see 4 things, and scroll through
another ~15 readings. I have mpg, trip mpg, tranny temp, and engine
water temp or voltage typically displayed. I can designate any of
those 4 fields to be any of those ~15 things. Awesome.

Hope none of you guys need the info above any time soon. ;-)


PS, at many points during the process, I strongly considered adding
complexity to the project and install a manual 6sp, since the engine
mating issue was already a problem. The 6sp trannies are cable
shifters, so that really wasn't an issue.

greetings. okay the cooler under the middle seat doesn't work plugged into the aux battery
under the drivers seat but works fine if i plug it into the dashboard lighter outlet. both
overhead cabin lights work so i am assuming the fuse for the aux battery outlets is blown.
how do i change this?
also what do i use to plug into the outlet under the table...i can't seem to find info on what
type of converter/inverter will work with this strangely sized outlet. i would want something
that is safe to run small appliances like a laptop, espresso maker, etc.
thanks for any help!