开云体育

I would be very interrested in a CD


Thomas in Florida
ex '77 Camper
ex '85 Camper
'93 EV MV 5-speed

<<< snip
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 00:18:04 -0700
From: Rick Gordon <rickgo@...>
Subject: Re: Re: VW Parts CD

Perhaps we can setup a distribution tree? Those of us with access to
CD burners burn a few copies for distribution to a few others? It's
been working great for music for years, and I'll bet enough of us
have burner access that everyone else doesn't have to deal with a
300MB download. Blanks and postage would be the only charge of course.
(Or I'll just wait until I get back into the office and use the big
pipe there!)

Hi Jim,

was this you or somebody else I met in January this year at Burnsville VW
when I was looking at the two '93 EV's they had (very rusty).
Just curious.


Thomas in Florida
ex '77 Camper
ex '85 Camper
'93 EV MV 5-speed









<< snip
From: louwsma@...
Subject: EVC's, EV GLS's and Rialta

EV Group--FYI. I was at Burnsville VW today (Twin Cities, MN area) and
they
have 4 EVC's--all 2000's, 2 Rialta's and 4 EV GLS's on the lot. Last time
I
was there they had one Rialta. Jim

didn't get away from the dealer without an oil change, three pounds
of freon and a replacement serpentine belt.

Scott, I hope it was 134a they stuck in there...
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at

n a message dated 5/25/2000 7:18:32 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
hjmoyni@... writes:

<< >Did you happen to see what size and make of tires the 2000???

I stopped by an RV dealer near Beaumont, TX to inspect some Rialtas,
both 2000 and leftover 1999. The rear tire size was 215/70R15 on
both, and was Continental LS23C on the 1999. I have 215/70R15
Continental LS23C's on my '93 EV MV front and rear which work great -
no clearance problems. >>

Humphrey, many thanks for sharing that info. What inflation pressure have
you settled for with your Continental LS23C 215/70R15's? I noted in an
earlier post of your improvement in gas mileage. Thanks.

swlink
s. arizona

power is measured in watts!

In a message dated 5/25/2000 6:12:00 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
sukitoby@... writes:

<< If your sink top is getting tired on the way up, you may wish to consider
new
sink struts. My original 95's were weak, moreover they were rated at 25
pounds when new.

The new ones obtained from Mobility RV (Winnebagoparts.com) are rated at 40
pounds each. Sink lid has no problem now!!

The part number is #10779609000 and best of all the cost is
$11.75 each (The equivalent NAPA part # is $21.95 each!!!)

Folks at Mobility are very EVC friendly - I highly recommend them.

STEVE with 95 EVC
>>

Thanks for passing that alone Steve. Will order from Mobility two of them.
TY

If your sink top is getting tired on the way up, you may wish to consider new
sink struts. My original 95's were weak, moreover they were rated at 25
pounds when new.

The new ones obtained from Mobility RV (Winnebagoparts.com) are rated at 40
pounds each. Sink lid has no problem now!!

The part number is #10779609000 and best of all the cost is
$11.75 each (The equivalent NAPA part # is $21.95 each!!!)

Folks at Mobility are very EVC friendly - I highly recommend them.

STEVE with 95 EVC

EVC owners may have noticed plywood edges showing on their Winnebago
cabinetry,

The gray edge trim shrinks over time. On my 95, each trim piece is more than
1 inch to short.

Help is at hand. I recently purchased from Mobility RV (Winnebagoparts.com)
a one foot

piece of trim.

This is called T-molding, bulb Part #1137570201A only 35 cents per foot

Directions: Reposition molding so missing piece is least noticeable. cut
small piece with razor blade, insert - much improved appearance. And if it
shrinks more the next 5 years you can always cut a new piece!!

STEVE

Correct, I should have said "power draw", not "current draw" -- my mistake. ?Amps are a measure of current, volts are a measure of what is roughly comparable to pressure, and watts are a measure of power. ?Amps x volts equals power.

And also correct, be careful.

And also correct, show respect for the hardware.

Now, please, before you test your fans, please observe the following:

! -- Do remove your wedding ring.

2 -- Also be sure you aren't standing barefoot in a puddle of water.

3 -- Also make sure you use INSULATED wire (please! -- don't try this with a coat hanger).

4 -- Also, if the wire you choose is just a TINY bit too short, DO NOT ?-- I repeat DO NOT -- try to span the gap with your tongue! ?Just get a longer wire, or see your qualified service technician.

5 -- Don't forget to prop up the hood either (how many times have you seen it happen? ?-- someone lifts the hood, leans in to inspect the engine bay, forgets to prop the hood open, and then lets go -- OUCH!. ?Make sure the hood is secure before you let go!).

6 -- Remember that when you are looking at something with your own two eyes, objects are NOT "closer than they appear".


Finally, the point is just to check if you've got a dead fan or not. ?This process involves safely getting some juice (current or power -- NOT orange or grapefruit) directly to the fan for a second or two.


Mike






----------
From: WSArmstron@...
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Warning about testing the Cooling fans...
Date: Thu, May 25, 2000, 2:47 PM

--- In ev_update@..., "James H. McCarthy" <jimhmc@M...> wrote:

Last night I changed a bulb in the rear of my '95EVC. Fortunately
it was a bulb on the right side, and access was easy because the
well behind/in front of it has the auxiliary battery.

But as I contemplated a future need to change on on the left, I was
stumped on how to access the left rear bulbs. Has anyone figured
out how to do this? The booklet for the EV shows easy access, but
the EVC has water intake, and fuse panel blocking things. Any
suggestions?

Others have posted their ways; here's one more. You can get to it
easily with a reasonable amount of arm room if you remove the furnace.
Leave the aft panel containing the fuse panel and pockets in place,
and instead remove the panel below the closet -- the one that has
vents in it, and supports the aft port portion of the lower bed. Then
pull out the furnace. This is fairly straightforward, though you have
to disconnect the furnace's propane line, and you need to check it for
leaks when reassembling.

I doubt that removing the furnace is an easier way to get at the
bulbs, though it's probably not too much harder. OTOH, if you ever
have the furnace out for maintenance anyway, it might be a good time
to take the opportunity and change all the bulbs back there.
Especially if you've already had a bulb burn out on the right side --
the left side may go at any time.

One more note: if you instead go behind the fuse panel, be sure and
disconnect the coach battery first. There are exposed wires back
there.

--Rich

Thanks. The "wall 'shell' that has the pockets" is an approach I had not
pictured. I shall probably try to fuse panel approach first. Jim.

At 11:04 AM 5/25/2000 -0700, you wrote:

hi again,
as I recall, you have to remove the left rear wall "shell" that has the
pockets. I loosened the piece that covers the furnace intakes up to the
point where I could work my arm in underneath it.
I think trying through the fuse panel first is the way to go.
& yes, I believe my wife is a wise woman too.
8^)
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: James H. McCarthy [mailto:jimhmc@...]
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 11:01 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: RE: [ev_update] Changing Bulbs


My imagination says that the plastic you removed started with was the
plastic beside the heater air vents, that open into the 'runway' in the
middle of the van. Yes?

Frankly, I like the idea of replacing all the bulbs as preventive medicine.
Beer or no beer, I think your wife is a wise woman.

I will, however, wait until such a move is necessary. Jim.


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Old school buds here:

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jim McCarthy
ex '87 Westfalia
'95 EuroVanCamper
Somerville, MA, USA

hi again,
as I recall, you have to remove the left rear wall "shell" that has the
pockets. I loosened the piece that covers the furnace intakes up to the
point where I could work my arm in underneath it.
I think trying through the fuse panel first is the way to go.
& yes, I believe my wife is a wise woman too.
8^)
Bill

My imagination says that the plastic you removed started with was the
plastic beside the heater air vents, that open into the 'runway' in the
middle of the van. Yes?

Frankly, I like the idea of replacing all the bulbs as preventive medicine.
Beer or no beer, I think your wife is a wise woman.

I will, however, wait until such a move is necessary. Jim.

At 08:14 AM 5/25/2000 -0700, you wrote:

hi Jim,
I did this last year and it took about 45 minutes and 2 beers to do it the
way I did. I removed a lot of winnebago plastic around the back and managed
to reach in behind the fuse panel to change the bulb, with only minor
scratches on my arm!

Jim McCarthy
ex '87 Westfalia
'95 EuroVanCamper
Somerville, MA, USA

I was under the impression that this file was being made available for free
download by VW. If that's not the case, then it should definitely not be
downloaded or distributed. I don't think anyone here was suggesting selling
copyrighted material, or even illegally downloading anything. Perhaps
someone could clarify the situation and legalities of the issue. If this is
pirated software then it should definitely not be downloaded or copied.

Sheldon
'97 EVC

You might want to take this discussion off the list, remember,
distribtuion of copywrited material is unlawful. All of these posts
are in digest form therefore any lawer for VW could access these
emails.

Not that this might happen but...

--- In ev_update@..., "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...>
wrote:

The download time is not that long; try this one:

ftp://206.172.22.65/pub/vwcd.zip

That's a zipped version that's just 208.6MB It can easily be

downloaded

overnight even at 28.8.

True, you need a reliable connection, but the site
() also has

resumable

connections.


Mike



----------
From: "Sheldon H. Winick" <s.winick@w...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: VW Parts CD
Date: Thu, May 25, 2000, 10:48 AM


As long as one of the downloaders would be willing to
initially make some CD copies to share with others who have a CD

burner who

could in turn do the same, a distribution tree could be set up so

everyone

on this list who wants one could obtain a copy without having to

commit to

the extremely long download time.

hi Jim,
I did this last year and it took about 45 minutes and 2 beers to do it the
way I did. I removed a lot of winnebago plastic around the back and managed
to reach in behind the fuse panel to change the bulb, with only minor
scratches on my arm!

after buttoning it back up, 2 things were pointed out to me:
1) my wife thought I may as well have changed all the bulbs in that area
since it was such a pain to get to one (preventative maintenance)
2) my brother-in-law (who also owns an evc) thought removing the fuse panel
first would be a lot quicker.

next time, i'll buy all the bulbs, drink the beer, and beg my wife to remove
the fuse panel and change all the bulbs at once. ;-)

good luck
Bill Segesser
95evc
Woodinville WA

The download time is not that long; try this one:

ftp://206.172.22.65/pub/vwcd.zip

That's ?a zipped version that's just 208.6MB ?It can easily be downloaded overnight even at 28.8.

True, you need a reliable connection, but the site (http://kozmik.guelph.on.ca/gtdproject/fluids/cd.htm) also has resumable connections.


Mike



----------
From: "Sheldon H. Winick"
To:
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: ?VW Parts CD
Date: Thu, May 25, 2000, 10:48 AM

In a message dated 5/24/00 2:01:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RocknRolz@... writes:

<< VW is working on the T5 but all the EVs are T4. >>

Volvo also calls one of their vehicles a T5

Blaine

Re: [ev_update] Re: VW Parts CDMike,

>> So, if you have an extra 360mb of harddrive space,
>> it might not be worth the hassle of burning a CD at all.

I think what the folks are talking about is sharing the information via CD
and snail-mail so everyone won't have to individually commit to the long
download time. As long as one of the downloaders would be willing to
initially make some CD copies to share with others who have a CD burner who
could in turn do the same, a distribution tree could be set up so everyone
on this list who wants one could obtain a copy without having to commit to
the extremely long download time.

For those of us who have both a regular CD and a CD/RW, duplication would be
an easy process.

Sheldon
'97 EVC




----- Original Message -----
From: Michael G. McCarthy
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: VW Parts CD


This CD is a complete VW and Audi CD. It has a pretty thorough parts list
for ALL models from the 70's through 2001.

There is some idiosyncratic stuff on this disc though. For example, I've
looked up parts on 1999 and 2000 EVs and the CD will return a "no part
number available" message. However, I can find the SAME part on the '93 and
then get the correct part number (and I'm talking about the exact same part,
like a particular bolt that is obviously identical on all EV's from '92 to
present).

The CD also has some pretty decent navigation tools and a nice bookmark
feature (too bad the bookmark feature does not work across the ENTIRE
disc -- you need to be within a particular model to see the bookmarks for
that model).

You also can assemble and printout parts lists. Today I'm going to try
printing out a short list of parts that I'm sure will have to be special
ordered and then fax them to the parts guy Jack at my local VW dealer.
Hopefully he will order the parts without my having to drive in and order
the parts over-the-counter.

One other thing, the CD is pretty fast. I have slow old PC that only
supports the big screen you need for this CD to work (1280x1024) in 256
colors (which is fine for the CD) -- I don't have a real fast CD player
either -- and still the whole process of working the disc is pretty fast.

You can also see which parts are discontinued as they are greyed out in the
menus.

(BTW, you DON'T need to actually burn a CD to make this thing work. You can
install the whole thing on your harddrive and it will work the same, and
even a bit faster. An intallation using a CD requires about 50MB of disk
space for files that MUST be installed on the harddrive anyway. An
installation using the harddrive only requires about 410MB total for the
installation. So, if you have an extra 360mb of harddrive space, it might
not be worth the hassle of burning a CD at all.)


Mike

----------
From: Bennett <6bennett@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: VW Parts CD
Date: Thu, May 25, 2000, 8:37 AM



I'd be more than willing to pay for this CD if they were made available
through the group! Having struggled through vacant stares from
parts/service personnel (even at VW shops!) on behalf of my 88 Vanagon,
this would be well worth your suggested price.
I recently bought a '93 ev mv and know I will be facing a new learning
curve.
This CD would be an answer to prayer!
Please let me know when you can do this and what you need...


Kirk


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Old school buds here:

------------------------------------------------------------------------








Hiking Biking Climbing Nature Tours Dude Ranches Rafting/Paddling Sea
Kayaking Multi Sport Horseback Riding

In a message dated 05/21/2000 10:57:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mgmccarthy@... writes:

50 amps at 12volts is 600watts. That's about the current draw of a large
screen TV. That's a lot compared to most current draws in a car, but it's
hardly "unsafe" if you use heavy wires. The point is just to test the fan,
nothing more

Mike -
I believe you mean that is the POWER draw of a large screen TV.
Regardless, 50 amps is nothing to play around with. I agree with Jack: Such
testing deserves a lot of respect, and connecting a questionable motor, which
may draw 50 amps when operating normally, to a battery which can deliver
100's of amps, and doing so without proper fusing, is not showing a lot of
respect. A person performing such tests should have knowledge of the
consequences that Jack is referring to. Pity the poor uninformed home
mechanic who gets his wedding ring welded to the contacts of this high
amperage source: he not only has lost a sentimental item, he may well lose
the finger that once displayed that item!

Bill Armstrong, EVC Speculator
Endwell, NY
'71 Econoline (home brew camper (54K Mi))