OK, bad movie. Too long on boring. They did blow up and crash lots of
fords. Thats good! But they also blew up a late right hand drive EV.
The IM guys were using it as their spy equipment car and a badie
stuck a bomb under it. But the good guy did get out just in time
cause he saw the bomb thru the EV's excelent side mirrors. Then you
get to see all the EV's parts go up in flames and fly everywhere.

Eckhard,

Greetings!!!

By now, I hope youve eliminated the "whistling" from your front end and
that you were right in diagnosing that your noise was indeed from the
tranny. The problem is this whole thing is audal so its difficult to
describe in prose. Im updating you on a repair to let you know that
Ive solved mine. No, it was NOT coming from the tranny so please read
on.

I finally found a reputable shop in Monrovia, CA that has the VW special
tool to hold the vibration damper in place when removing the crankshaft
center bolt on AUDIs and the Eurovan. They have the tool because this
shop is a "dealer jobber". Their tool however is different. It does
NOT anchor the vibration damper to the engine block like the VW Special
Tool in the Bentley manual. It is a separate monster wrench that mates
with the splines of the vibration damper for a second mechanic to
counter hold in place. This way, the engine mounts do not get distorted
while loosening the center bolt. Did VW know that those mounts would be
subject to 340 ft-lbs. of "twist" at the least when you undo the center
bolt using their recommended tool? I hope so. This was the first time
mine came off and definitely, it was torqued way over 340 ft-lbs!
Closer to 400 from the amount of brawn I was told it all required.

I thought this unit had a T-Belt job at 60K miles. Not!!! It ran to
116K miles on original parts! Surprisingly, the belt was still in good
condition but it had scrape damage inflicted by the Tensioner on its
outer surface. The grease in my Idler Roller had dried up and the
Tensioner was seized. The belt was just sliding over the plastic roller
surface of the Tensioner. In fact, an area of plastic had already
eroded to about 1/8" deep. Literally, I was driving a grenade with
safety pin about ready to drop!

Since the center bolt was difficult to remove, I opted to have all
related repairs that depended on its removal addressed in one session.
Idler roller, crank & camshaft oil seals, water pump (ouch!) and
Thermostat were all replaced. The water pump is driven by the T-Belt.
If it should seize, the T-belt to get stripped of teeth. Guess what
happens next? The whole job cost me a pretty penny, but definitely
still less that what I would have paid if I didnt bother to research
and just had a dealer do it.

The whistling noise was coming from the Timing Belt as it slid over the
seized Tensioner! If it has been more than 60K miles since your last
T-Belt job, I suggest that you check your Tensioner. CONTINENTAL did a
superb job in designing their timing belt product, but the Tensioner
that INA makes for VW is a different story. Ive seen much better
bearing products from TIMKEN and FAG.

Take off the Serpentine belt and remove the Air filter assembly with its
plumbing to the intake manifold. Once you unclip the upper Timing Belt
cover, youll be able to eyeball the Tensioner.

Regards.

Kit Samson

A few months ago I registered with MSN CarPoint. Today I got an email about
the fuel line recall. It stated that owner notification should have started
on April 15.
Eckhard

At 01:39 PM 5/26/2000 -0600, you wrote:

thanks guys , i don,t know if canada has a recall .last time i checked the
person
at the dealer knew nothing . i'm on file with 2 dealerships and haven't
received
any notice.
don 92evcl,94cargo
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Noeske <chrisn@...>
To: 'ev_update@...' <ev_update@...>
Date: Friday, May 26, 2000 3:10 PM
Subject: RE: [ev_update] fuel line leak fix

My 92, didn't ever leak but the blue rubber hose had some cracking, so I
decided to fix it. Good thing I did, the blue hose fell apart as I was
removing it. The blue hose is the return line that is crimped to the blue
plastic line. Yes I would replace both of them too.

Chris

<should we also cut off the big crimpt fittings where the rubber meets the
plastic lines and re-clamp them as well ? i < have the dremel tool.
on the other hand my 92 evcl manufactured in 06/92 has spring loaded

clamps

,no looseness
and a different looking hose material ,any one had a problem with a 92 ?

Canada had a recall on the 1992s first. We had the EVs first and we had
more of them, and the problem was exacerbated by weather and heat related
aging. The vast temperature differences between winter and hot summer is
what fries rubbers, and plastics fastest.

Reg
1992 EVC

In a message dated 05/24/2000 9:08:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
gibbonsnc@... writes:

Actually your VR6 engine has 2 chains, a short one that goes from the
crank to a secondary shaft and then a longer one that goes from the
shaft to the two cams. Each chain does have an hydraulic tensioning
device that runs off engine oil. More or less it is a good system but
not as simple as the 5 cylinder engines cam belt.

It is also possible that one of the hydraulic cam followers has
failed and lets its valve make lots of noise. That would be simple to
fix.

Other then that its more serious internal engine parts. I hope you
have a warrenty left.

Thanks for the response.

Your diagnosis was right on. It turned out that the cam tensioner got stuck.
We don't know why the oil didn't lubricate it. Could have been some
machining problem in the manufacturing process. I saw the part. The part
costs 60 some dollars. But the top of the engine has to be dismantled.
Takes several hours to do. Quite expensive.

The warranty didn't cover it. It is considered an attachment not part of the
drive train.

The valve cover had to be removed obviously. Problem, the gasket is a part
of the valve cover. One just can't buy a new gasket one has to buy the cover
also which costs over one hundred dollars. The gasket is integrated into the
valve cover.

It seems that part very seldom fails. However, if the engine starts sounding
like a diesel better get it to the nearest garage immediately. Had the
tensioner remained ineffective for a very long time the cam chain would have
slipped and that would have been the end of the engine.

thanks guys , i don,t know if canada has a recall .last time i checked the
person
at the dealer knew nothing . i'm on file with 2 dealerships and haven't
received
any notice.
don 92evcl,94cargo

My 92, didn't ever leak but the blue rubber hose had some cracking, so I
decided to fix it.? Good thing I did, the blue hose fell apart as I was
removing it.? The blue hose is the return line that is crimped to the blue
plastic line.? Yes I would replace both of them too.?
?
Chris

<should we also cut off? the big crimpt fittings where the rubber meets the
plastic lines and re-clamp them as well ? i <?have??the dremel tool.
?on the other hand my 92 evcl manufactured in 06/92 has spring loaded clamps
,no looseness
and a different looking hose material ,any one had a problem with a 92 ??
?

? _____

I replaced all the rubber parts and used high quality hose clamps
instead of the spring or crimp clamps. But..... Isn't there a recall
now where you can get the dealer to do it for free?

开云体育

I saw an EV MV this morning on my way to work, it was white with a bunch
of stickers on the right rear window. They waved as they passed me,
looked like they were going away for the holiday weekend. If your on the
list, nice van and have a great weekend.


** NOTICE *
To avoid returned messages please check file sizes before
sending, smpcorp.com will not accept messages containing
file attachments over 8Mb.

An inexpensive option is to add a third lap belt on the rear bench.
They can be purchased at any auto parts shop, and can be bolted down
by sharing the same bolts hold that existing belts.

Installation is largely blind, working through two holes in the rear
seat frame; you will need a long socket extension and a little piece
of tar in the socket to hold the bolts as they are mounted straight
down. If you are lucky (as I was) the tar will still be stuck to the
bolt head from original assembly (!) but you won't know until the
bolt that you are removing drops ...

A few months ago devastating noises and shifting problems announced
the demise of one of our engine mounts. Seems that the entire
business separated from the frame when welds failed. Cost of repairs
- $700 Cdn at a local frame shop for welding, re&re. Now the noise
and shifting problems are back; one mounts itself has failed and the
other two are dodgey, all allegedly due to the first failure.
Projected cost - another $800.

Is this just bad luck? Am I likely to get any sympathy from the
folks
at VW?

I would like to buy itl I will be driving through indiane next mounth.
Can we makes a deal.

I was wondering if anyone has had any experience repairing the window
blinds... I knew that it was only a matter of time before one of
those delicate strings broke and last weekend, one gave way. Now I
know their function...they keep the blinds aligned when they
retract... without the string, they do not retract well at all. So
now I need to reattach the string. Before I disassemble the blinds,
I was wondering if anyone has had any experience in this area;
recommendations, do's, don'ts, etc. If not, I'll post how I make out.

Bob Lang
97 EVC

Michael,

Regarding your intermittent gauges:

The printed circuit board for the gauges needs to be replaced with an
upgraded version.
Ask your dealer about it. I believe the part is free but not the labor.

Two months ago I purchased a 93 EV Weekender from my local dealer. They
replaced the circuit board as part of the used vehicle prep.

Dave Bonning
Doylestown, PA

85 Westy
93 Weekender

I would be very interrested in a CD


Thomas in Florida
ex '77 Camper
ex '85 Camper
'93 EV MV 5-speed

<<< snip
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 00:18:04 -0700
From: Rick Gordon <rickgo@...>
Subject: Re: Re: VW Parts CD

Perhaps we can setup a distribution tree? Those of us with access to
CD burners burn a few copies for distribution to a few others? It's
been working great for music for years, and I'll bet enough of us
have burner access that everyone else doesn't have to deal with a
300MB download. Blanks and postage would be the only charge of course.
(Or I'll just wait until I get back into the office and use the big
pipe there!)

Hi Jim,

was this you or somebody else I met in January this year at Burnsville VW
when I was looking at the two '93 EV's they had (very rusty).
Just curious.


Thomas in Florida
ex '77 Camper
ex '85 Camper
'93 EV MV 5-speed









<< snip
From: louwsma@...
Subject: EVC's, EV GLS's and Rialta

EV Group--FYI. I was at Burnsville VW today (Twin Cities, MN area) and
they
have 4 EVC's--all 2000's, 2 Rialta's and 4 EV GLS's on the lot. Last time
I
was there they had one Rialta. Jim

didn't get away from the dealer without an oil change, three pounds
of freon and a replacement serpentine belt.

Scott, I hope it was 134a they stuck in there...
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at

n a message dated 5/25/2000 7:18:32 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
hjmoyni@... writes:

<< >Did you happen to see what size and make of tires the 2000???

I stopped by an RV dealer near Beaumont, TX to inspect some Rialtas,
both 2000 and leftover 1999. The rear tire size was 215/70R15 on
both, and was Continental LS23C on the 1999. I have 215/70R15
Continental LS23C's on my '93 EV MV front and rear which work great -
no clearance problems. >>

Humphrey, many thanks for sharing that info. What inflation pressure have
you settled for with your Continental LS23C 215/70R15's? I noted in an
earlier post of your improvement in gas mileage. Thanks.

swlink
s. arizona

power is measured in watts!