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Re: Rims for 99 EVC
In a message dated 12/17/02 7:06:00 PM, mgmccarthy@... writes:
<< Steve, what have you got for lug bolts for those wheels? >> I don't know yet what lug bolts they need. I have a set on order and haven't received them yet. My supplier says he used the originals on his '93, but I think most alloys have a cone seat and not a ball type like the steel wheels. Also most alloys use 17mm bolts ant not 19mm. Either way, I have a source for lug bolts at reasonable prices. Steve Lashley SKL Enterprises Inc. 636-797-9015 636-789-2127 fax |
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Re: Tire wear
In a message dated 12/17/2002 3:27:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bzimm8@... writes: Thanks for the reminder, wear pattern is mostly on the outside edgeThat wear pattern is a sign of improper camber or toe. Since the wear is most noticeable in the rear, I would look closely at the rear toe which is the only thing adjustable on the rear of your 2000 EVC. (I have sent the page of the Bentley Manual which deals with adjusting the rear toe.) But I would go for a full alignment which includes checking the height of the front end first. (Archives have ample information on the difficulties experienced by many EV owners to get the local dealer to set the height or even to get him to acknowledge that the height can be adjusted.) Regards, Bob Williams Severna Park, MD Ex-1993 Weekender Now 2001 Weekender p VIN WV2NB47031H104628 |
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Finally, an inexpensive console for the EV
I've solved my problem with not having enough storage space in my EVC as
well as having the Homer Simpson's size Super Size drink holder! At Target Stores... they're selling this Truck/Van Storage console that fits between the seat. It's molded gray plastic with two adjustable size drink holders. Has a nice size storage bin and a detectable trash bin. Quality is very acceptable for the $39.99 price! It the largest one they sell... the fit is nice and there's minimal interference with the parking brake. Those interested may want to check it out. |
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Re: Tire wear
Thomas Isom <[email protected]>
Hmmm, could it just be from taking more hard right turns? Because we
drive on the right side of the road, we tend to make more sharp right turns, while left turns through intersections have a much larger radius. Or, perhaps because you often drive with more load on the left? Just a few thoughts. --- In ev_update@..., "bzimm8 <bzimm8@y...>" <bzimm8@y...> wrote: Thanks for the reminder, wear pattern is mostly on the outside edgethan on the right side. |
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Re: EVC97 Right Armrest: BROKE!
Michael G. McCarthy
Roy, I was going to do just that but the link is kaput....
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That's the bookmark I had for the repair. Usually I use Pagesucker to grab those sort of things but this time I didn't. Mike DON'T BUY A NEW ARMREST YET! |
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Re: EVC97 Right Armrest: BROKE!
DON'T BUY A NEW ARMREST YET!
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I can't find the link... but I know someone on this board can send you the link to a website which walks you through the simple inexpensive repair. M. Roy Nakamura Principle Industrial Engineer The Boeing Company % Office Phone: (562) 593-8123 % Home Phone: (310) 514-8342 * Pager: (562) 403-5103 Email : Roy.M.Nakamura@... -----Original Message-----
From: tripod97pct <jjacobs@...> [mailto:jjacobs@...] Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 12:28 PM To: ev_update@... Subject: [ev_update] EVC97 Right Armrest: BROKE! Awright, so I shouldn't have leaned on the armrest while I was reaching over to the passenger door. The metal "thumb" piece that holds the armrest into a notch in the seat has snapped. So now it won't stay fixed at a horizontal position (the armrest can just spin). The metal is just an alloy and would not work well with welding. I tried JB Weld but it didn't hold. So I am looking for options as to how I can repair it instead of paying $140 for a replacement. I may try wrapping steel wire around the unit and then welding that together to make a new "thumb" to stick into the seat body. Anyways, if anybody has a spare right armrest, I am really interested. The fabric has the diamonds and triangles, not the large ovals. But beware that these armrests cannot hold much weight! But this is probably common sense and it is I that have learned this too late. Jeff EVC97 To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <> . |
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EVC97 Right Armrest: BROKE!
tripod97pct <[email protected]>
Awright, so I shouldn't have leaned on the armrest while I was
reaching over to the passenger door. The metal "thumb" piece that holds the armrest into a notch in the seat has snapped. So now it won't stay fixed at a horizontal position (the armrest can just spin). The metal is just an alloy and would not work well with welding. I tried JB Weld but it didn't hold. So I am looking for options as to how I can repair it instead of paying $140 for a replacement. I may try wrapping steel wire around the unit and then welding that together to make a new "thumb" to stick into the seat body. Anyways, if anybody has a spare right armrest, I am really interested. The fabric has the diamonds and triangles, not the large ovals. But beware that these armrests cannot hold much weight! But this is probably common sense and it is I that have learned this too late. Jeff EVC97 |
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Re: Rims for 99 EVC
In a message dated 12/17/02 3:46:55 PM, pcbevan@... writes:
<< Dear Listers, Just got a set of snows for my 99 EVC. Just wondering if anyone knows where to get a set of steel rims at a reasonable price? The place I got the tires from had rims listed, but they were OOS. Also, can I use any steel rim made for an EV with the correct bolt pattern, or does it, like the tires, need to have a more heavy duty load range rating? >> Sorry I can't help you with steel wheels, but we now have Audi factory alloys at very low prices. or Steve Lashley SKL Enterprises Inc. 636-797-9015 636-789-2127 fax |
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Re: Rear Heater Not Working ('99 EV GLS)
Brad Schwartz
That was my next thing to try once it stops raining... just need to borrow
some truck ramps so I don't have to mess with jacks and jack stands... Thanks, Brad If it's anything like the rear heater in my 93 EV, check the electrical -- Brad Schwartz <baschwar@...> |
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97 EVC top vent leaking.
Scott D. Thornock
With the most recient storm....
I have found that the flip up vent in my van is leaking. The inside seal seems fine ... Maybe it is leaking around the outer seal ... If there is one. In any case it seems to collect a lot of water, then wham...dump water like a cow peeing when I start to move. Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks, Scott 97 EVC |
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Re: Master Clutch Cylinder replacement
Bill,
If bleeding the clutch lines does not work the "normal" way, here's a trick: You get a few feet of clear plastic tube and connect it to the bleeding nipple on your SLAVE CLUTCH CYLINDER. Open the nipple and let the tube fill with brake fluid (some spillage is unavoidable), then connect it to the bleeding nipple of your LEFT FRONT BRAKE trying not to introduce any air in. Bleed your BRAKES in the normal way (open the nipple, pedal down, close the nipple, pedal up, repeat). You will be forcing brake fluid backwards through the clutch lines until all air bubbles escape through the reservoir. No need to top up the reservoir since you are just recirculating fluid. I haven't tried it on my EV yet but it works like a dream on my Audis which have vibration coils in the clutch lines that trap air. You may want to open the brake nipple beforehand to get rid of some of the old, rusty fluid. Another alternative would be to buy or build a pressure bleeder. Good luck. Radek 93 EV 91 Audi V8Q 5-sp 88 Audi 90Q Message: 13manual |
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Re: Rear Heater Not Working ('99 EV GLS)
Brad,
If it's anything like the rear heater in my 93 EV, check the electrical connection where the wires plug into the heater. You have to crawl under the van to do it. Unplug and spray some contact cleaner, it's done the trick for me a couple of times already. That connector is exposed to road dirt, salt etc. and is really prone to corrosion. Good luck. Radek 93 EV --- In ev_update@..., Brad Schwartz <baschwar@c...> wrote: > Hi, > > I seems that the rear heater in our '99 GLS is not blowing. I looked inside > the vent to see if there were any blockages and there weren't. Looked > underneath the van and the heater is getting hot... Just not blowing. > > Are there fuses associated with this that can be checked? Anyone with a > Bentley book care to look this up for me please... > > If it isn't a fuse... Is it the whole blower unit? Anything else to > troubleshoot or check? > > Anyone know how much a new rear heater is? Can the old one be rebuilt or > repaired? > > Thank you, > > Brad |
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Re: Opinions sought - Will my '93 EV Powertrain last 250K miles?
Ron rbiegel1@... wrote:
Thanks Lee. I was thinking to get that report myself but appreciateAs for all loans, you need to get the TOTAL amount that you will pay over the term of the loan. Then you can decide if it's a good deal or not. There are simply too many ways to calculate interest, too many hidden charges, etc. to compare blindly on percent interest rate. Here's a crude example. You're buying a Christmas gift. Would you rather pay $100 today, or $101 at the end of the month? The latter is a horrible interest rate -- but it only costs you $1. With all the holiday bills, it might be better to pay that $1 and wait. In my case, VW offered me 3.5% interest for a 24-month loan. We already had the money in the bank, and it was paying only 1% interest. So it was better to buy it outright than to finance it. But if we had the money in a CD that was paying (say) 5%, then we'd be money ahead to finance it (we make more on the 5% interest than we pay for the 3.5% loan). -- Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring 814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen |
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Re: Opinions sought - Will my '93 EV Powertrain last 250K miles?
B. Nostrand
For another reference. My family and I purchased a new 2002 mv weekender poptop in april of this year. the negotiated price, including front floor mats (what a coup) was $28,500. We got the 2 years at .9% and didn't have to make our first payment for 45 days (plus we paid an additional $365.00 prior to our first payment to completely eliminate the interest.) So our final deal was $28,500, zero down and 25 .5 months to pay it off. We were quite pleased with the price and helped two other sets of friends get the same deal. Seems like there would definitely be more room to move price wise on rather than settling for the $26K on the GLS or non-poptop mv. rbury
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From: Lee Hart To: ev_update@... Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 9:25 AM Subject: Re: [ev_update] Opinions sought - Will my '93 EV Powertrain last 250K miles? Ron rbiegel1@... wrote: > Thanks Lee. I was thinking to get that report myself but appreciate > the information. Sound like the dealer could be below 26K if they > really want to sell. With year end rapidly approaching the deals may > get better. FYI - my dealer is offering 4-1/4% 3 year VW financing. > Not very competitive with all the 0% deals floating around. As for all loans, you need to get the TOTAL amount that you will pay over the term of the loan. Then you can decide if it's a good deal or not. There are simply too many ways to calculate interest, too many hidden charges, etc. to compare blindly on percent interest rate. Here's a crude example. You're buying a Christmas gift. Would you rather pay $100 today, or $101 at the end of the month? The latter is a horrible interest rate -- but it only costs you $1. With all the holiday bills, it might be better to pay that $1 and wait. In my case, VW offered me 3.5% interest for a 24-month loan. We already had the money in the bank, and it was paying only 1% interest. So it was better to buy it outright than to finance it. But if we had the money in a CD that was paying (say) 5%, then we'd be money ahead to finance it (we make more on the 5% interest than we pay for the 3.5% loan). -- Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring 814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
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Re: Tires
Describe the wear pattern and perhaps more help can be offered.
In a message dated 12/17/2002 3:15:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, bzimm8@... writes: I have a problem with my 2000 EVC left tires wearing faster than the |
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correction regarding CV joints
Michael G. McCarthy
All,
In a prior post I advised the group that I'd been told there soon would be "no new CV joints available for EVs, only rebuilts." I've since learned that that's not correct. In correspondence with Steve at europarts-sd.com I've learned the facts: "Actually, VW had purchased their original joints from Lobro, as does nearly every European car manufacturer. They are about the only manufacturer of these joints. For some reason, VW has opted to have some independent company rebuild the joints here in North America rather than continue to buy new units from Lobro." I've long known that VW doesn't manufacture its own joints (in fact, VW or any auto"maker" doesn't manufacture much at all....mostly they design, assemble and market) so when I first heard that VW wouldn't be "making" new joints, I assumed that meant that LOBRO wouldn't be making new joints. Not true. Lobro will STILL be making new joints for the time being. All of which points to the real value of working with independents like Steve at europarts-sd.com and Ron at busdepot.com. Rebuilt CV joints will not last nearly as long as brand new joints. If you only buy from the dealer you'd have no choice but to get rebuilts (and very likely the dealer's parts counter will tell you--falsely--that only rebuilts are available). Steve and Ron know better, so work with them instead. Mike |
Lee Hart
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