Re: Used Eurovan checklist?
Hi Barbara, Can you please send me the MS Word doc privately, as I don't think it made it to the list (I can't seem to find it, perhaps the attachment didn't take?) -o --- In ev_update@y..., Ooohlaa@a... wrote: I made up a checkist last year when I was looking for a '93-95. I have attached it to this email. It is a "word" document so hope you can open it. Barbara/Florida
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Re: Norcold Refrigerator Modification Suggestions and List
Thanks from your input.
#2 ¨C This pilot light shows when the Norcold is the process of
cooling. When running on propane, the flame burns at the high-level
when this pilot light is on, and low-level when this pilot light is
off. Now, I turn the thermostat a little to try to hear the slight
click it makes when crossing between the "more cold" and "cold
enough" point. This change is partly because my hearing is shot and
trying to hear the click is difficult at best. I don't recognize the
name Harry Pinochet. I would be interested in seeing his
suggestions. Would it be possible to provide a reference?
#3 ¨C Yes, in my eyes, an internal thermometer is necessary. What
brand and model thermometer are you using? I was thinking of
mounting it on the Norcold control panel. Also, it would be nice to
have an alarm that would sound when the temperature became
excessively high ¨C above 40 degrees F. That way you would know there
is a problem when driving.
#6 ¨C I read about group members that have used fans and their feeling
that they help. This item primarily addresses the need to use `D'
Cell batteries to power the fan. I want to power the fan from the RV
battery; therefore no batteries to replace. I think I can power the
fan without drilling a hole in the box and running wired directly to
it by using an induction coupled power source.
. . . Gary of Grass Valley
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In a message dated 9/19/01 5:06:47 PM, catzz@... writes:
<< Check for all official candle lighting, satellite
picture taking announcements. I know your intentions are good, but sheesh,
do you always believe everything you hear or read?.................. >>
Yes, I give the benefit of the doubt a lot. Its a nicer, softer way that I
like to live.
There are some of us who still love Life enough to trust ... what harm can
come from going out there and lighting candles and shining flashlites anyway,
as a statement for Peace ... Nasa or no Nasa. I would wish that this tragedy
would offset such kneejerk cynicism, especially in issues that are totally
harmless as this. You rained on my parade, but I went out there anyway,
sattelite or not. May have just been a grass roots movement, but who cares.
Such chiding hurts, and I can't imagine why you would send a Sheesh
disenchanting email on such a delicate subject.
Barbara/Florida
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Re: Danger: Transmission fails to downshift
I don't doubt you have a serious problem, but your description doesn't seem to make sense. Regardless of whether the transmission will downshift or not, you should be able to easily stop the vehicle with the brakes. They are power brakes. If it was a manual transmission you would not have to downshift from 4 to 3 to 2 to 1 to stop the car. You can just as easily stop it in 4. Exactly when do you expect the transmission to downshift? The only time I am very aware of it is going uphill. Sometimes the RPMs slow down to the point that the transmission downshifts and then the RPMs pop back up. Could the accelerator be getting stuck? Serge 01 EVC "Beluga" --- In ev_update@y..., JWHsundial@a... wrote: I have a 1999 Eurovan weekender and we have had problems since day
one with the transmission. There are two problems. First the engine peroidically revs up to almost 5000 rpm before shifting into third
gear. Second and most importantly, the transmission has failed to
downshift on two occassions. When the automatic transmission has
failed to downshift, applying the foot brake does not stop the car. My wife had to throw the moving car into park into order to stop and
avoid hitting another car. We have had two different VW dealerships
try on six occassions to fix the problems, but with no sucess. When
they can reproduce the problem, their fix is only temporary.
Currently, the VW dealership can not duplicate the problem and
nothing shows up on their computer codes. VW has taken the position
that if there are no error codes, then the car is functioning as
designed and is safe. Well that is a bunch of BS and I am not
putting my family in car.
Any suggestions on solutions or similar experiences?
|
Doesn't make sense to me. A properly working thermostat should keep the engine temperature a steady 180 (or whatever it is set to) regardless of outside temperature (once it warms up). Serge 01 EVC "Beluga" --- In ev_update@y..., The Barbers <thebarbers@s...> wrote: No. It is working just fine. I just believe that with the suction behind the truck and hot weather and the diesel just below red line, it heated up a little extra. When the temperature is Germany style the guage reads a bit lower than during the warmer summer weather.
Bill
serge@s... wrote:
Thermostat could be the culprit as well.
--- In ev_update@y..., "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...>
wrote: Were your fans not working? Your fans should come on and
prevent your temps
from rising at all?
----------
From: The Barbers <thebarbers@s...>
To: ev_update@y...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan
Date: Wed, Sep 19, 2001, 1:24 PM
'94 EV GLS 2.4l diesel
When I was following fairly closely to a large truck on the
highway, the
temperature gauge rose considerably.
"Michael G. McCarthy" wrote:
Consider the fact that the fans will not push air thru
the radiator at any thing near a speed of 70 mph? Don, I don't think that's the relevant point. If the radiator
was sitting
out in the open what you say would be true. But instead of
being located in
a place that receive a lot of convections flow, the radiators
are behind a
partially covered grill, and the the fans and their hardware
are bolted to
the back of the radiator, and just a few inches away there's
the engine, and
then the entire underhood space is partially sealed by the
belly pan.
Putting all these pieces together, I'd say that very little
air naturally
flows through the radiator even at freeway speeds; you need
the fans.
----------
From: "Donald " <gibbonsnc@y...>
To: ev_update@y...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan
Date: Wed, Sep 19, 2001, 12:43 PM
--- In ev_update@y..., "IronWood Designs" <zawalick@p...>
wrote: I'm not sure where this information is from, but I can
verify that
the
system is not designed to run without the fans. When our
fan fuses
failed,
the van overheated while traveling at 70 mph on freeway
traffic (low engine
There is no reason at all for the fans to run while driving at
speed.
Consider the fact that the fans will not push air thru the
radiator
at any thing near a speed of 70 mph? And driving at 70 will
push much
more air thru then the fans ever could.
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For those of us limited on time, driving fast makes a significant difference in the places that can be practically visited in a weekend. Serge 01 EVC "Beluga" --- In ev_update@y..., kta95409@y... wrote: At the risk of being flamed as a sexist: It must be a guy thing. I
find it amazing that anyone would want to go as fast as 100 mph in a
square box!! I am quite happy putzing along at the speed limit, much to the annoyance of drivers around me. I know, I know, you don't really drive all that fast all the time, right? ;)
Kate
93 MV
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At the risk of being flamed as a sexist: It must be a guy thing. I
find it amazing that anyone would want to go as fast as 100 mph in a
square box!! I am quite happy putzing along at the speed limit, much
to the annoyance of drivers around me. I know, I know, you don't really
drive all that fast all the time, right? ;)
Kate
93 MV
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Re: Used Eurovan checklist?
On Wednesday, September 19, 2001, at 10:43 PM, Sea2river@... wrote: In a message dated 9/19/2001 8:58:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
oaitw@... writes:
Also, can anyone suggest a VW dealer who is familiar with eurovans
in the DC metro area?
I live in Severna Park, MD, now and was in Rockville for quite a few years.
Based on my experience of frequenting dealers in the area for about 20 years,
I reluctantly say there are no reliable dealers here. Springfield VW is the
only dealer which sells the Camper. Burnett in Alexandria did sell all other
EV models as did Congressional in Rockville and Fitzgerald in Annapolis
(salesmen there are unfamiliar with the difference between a Camper and a
Weekender). A dealer in Laurel will sell new non-camper EVs. I can talk
about other dealers, but it won't be pretty. Your best source for reliable
info is this list.
I do have a 93 Weekender available for sale. It's a 5-speed and in excellent
condition. I am asking $6500.
Regards,
Bob Williams
For general service/maintenance, I've been taking my '99 EVC and '99 Jetta to Martens VW in Bethesda (on River Road just outside of DC). They seem OK, but I don't believe that they know much if anything about the camper components. For that service, Bob is right in that Springfield VW is the only dealer that carries them. Out of principle, I won't take a car to Springfield VW, so I too am stuck needing a dealer that will service the camper components. Perhaps there is a Winnibego dealer who will service it? --Mike Washington, DC and Sun Valley, ID '99 EVC '99 Jetta
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Re: Norcold Refrigerator Modification Suggestions and List
I don't understand what your #2 shows, when the Norcold is turned on or when it is in the process of cooling? Would this light be dash mounted like the one Harry Pinochet described? 3 and 6 are easy mods (the only ones I have undertaken) however, the knowing the internal temp has been very helpful. I have my therometer mounted on the Norcold door. It would be more useful to have it mounted on the dash. I will be interested in hearing your solutions. Larry LA, CA 99 EVC --- gself@... wrote: I'm starting a list of improvements I want to make to my
Norcold
Refrigerator this winter. I've taken ideas from
modifications
other people have made and have added a few of my own.
The list so far is:
1. Thermostat control in 12-volt mode.
2. Additional pilot light to show when thermostat is
"on"
3. Thermometer showing internal temperature.
4. Inspection port to see propane flame.
5. Access port to clean combustion chamber without
removing
Norcold.
6. Internal fan to circulate cold air inside box
powered from RV
battery.
7. Outside vent for heat exchanger.
What else can you think of?
Thanks
Gary of Grass Valley
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Norcold Refrigerator Modification Suggestions and List
I'm starting a list of improvements I want to make to my Norcold
Refrigerator this winter. I've taken ideas from modifications
other people have made and have added a few of my own.
The list so far is:
1. Thermostat control in 12-volt mode.
2. Additional pilot light to show when thermostat is "on"
3. Thermometer showing internal temperature.
4. Inspection port to see propane flame.
5. Access port to clean combustion chamber without removing
Norcold.
6. Internal fan to circulate cold air inside box powered from RV
battery.
7. Outside vent for heat exchanger.
What else can you think of?
°Õ³ó²¹²Ô°ì²õ¡
¡Gary of Grass Valley
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Re: Sheepskin seat covers
I got a set of sheepskin seat covers at Costco this morning. So far
I have installed one on the passenger seat. And I thought the bra
was hard to put on.
I finally resorted to taking the seat out of the car, removing the
headrests and arm rests, then I removed two flute-head screws that
fasten the front of the seat bottom to the track. Removing these
screws allowed the elastic bands to pass between the seat cushion and
the track so it would not interfere with seat movement. Also removing
of the arm rests allowed the seat cover back to form nicely to the
seat back. Four holes in the seat cover allowed the arm rests and
head rest to once again fit in their rightful places.
Boy, are they ever nice. Thanks to all of you who recommended them.
I can't wait to give them a road test on our trip next week. Now I
need to find a nice way to cover the arm and head rests.
. . . Gary of Grass Valley
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Re: Danger: Transmission fails to downshift
You are not alone with your transmission problems. Ours fails to
upshift from 2nd or 3rd into overdrive. Once we were coming out of
Death Valley toward Lone Pine, CA and had to drive almost 10-miles in
2nd gear. I tried everything I could think of. Only after I pulled
to the side of the road, put it in park, then started out again in
drive did it operate properly.
This has happened twice. I think it may be do to the Computer
Controlled shift logic in the 2000 model. I refer to this feature
as "Brain Dead" shift logic. The dealer only checked the shift
point, diagnostic readout and said No Trouble Found.
. . . Gary of Grass Valley
|
Re: Danger: Transmission fails to downshift
--- In ev_update@y..., JWHsundial@a... wrote: I have a 1999 Eurovan weekender and we have had problems since day
one with the transmission. There are two problems. First the engine peroidically revs up to almost 5000 rpm before shifting into third
gear. Second and most importantly, the transmission has failed to
downshift on two occassions. When the automatic transmission has
failed to downshift, applying the foot brake does not stop the car. My wife had to throw the moving car into park into order to stop It sounds like a valve or valves in the transmission are sticking. Then, even though the computer is commanding the valve (and gears) to shift they will not. Have you had the ATF and filter changed? My transmission has done just the opposite a few times, instead of not down shifting it just does not shift into a gear while stopping. You wind up at an intersection with no drive. A few seconds of waiting or shifting into R has done the trick. I have changed the aTF and filter a few times (as well as taking the valve body apart...) since then and no problems for a while. As for the not stopping. You have done severe damage by using the "park" to stop. Why not try "N" and use the brakes? When the transmission is shifted into N manually it bypases the electrical valves. I also find it hard to beleive that the brakes would not stop the car no matter what gear the transmission was in.
|
Of course it was a closed course. I think it was called Utah.
I backed off at 110 mph in my 97evc.
Az Barber wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 01:01:05 -0000
From: serge@...
Subject: Re: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?
... regarding the increased hp engine, you're
really just trying to find a way to break you EVC land
speed record, right? Which brings up the question, just how fast has everyone gone in their
EV/EVCs? 90? 100? 110? Faster?
(any numbers provided would be assumed to have been reached on a
closed course, of course).
Serge
2001 EVC "Beluga" (100MPH)
Az
--
AH#56
----- Original Message -----
From: <ev_update@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 9:43 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Digest Number 1108
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Hitch carriers
From: gself@...
2. Re: Re: Hitch carriers
From: John Waterman <jwwaterman@...>
3. Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
4. install pollen filter on a 93
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
5. Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: Tomas Jones <tomasjones@...>
6. Re: Re: 93 EV-High mileage potential?
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
7. Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: Sklashley@...
8. Re: install pollen filter on a 93
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
9. Re: Re: Belly pan
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
10. Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: aberns@...
11. Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: kunsteins@...
12. Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: "Donald " <gibbonsnc@...>
13. Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: "Don & Karin Thompson" <kdthomp@...>
14. Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: sanae@...
15. Re: Hitch carriers
From: gself@...
16. Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: Baldy <baldy@...>
17. belly pan
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
18. ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?
From: plthe@...
19. Re: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: "Madeleine Dewar" <madewar@...>
20. Re: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: Baldy <baldy@...>
21. Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: jander14@...
22. Re: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?
From: Larry Schellhase <schellhase@...>
23. Re: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?
From: serge@...
24. RE: Re: Overheating - HELP !! FIXED
From: "IronWood Designs" <zawalick@...>
25. RE: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: "IronWood Designs" <zawalick@...>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:55:01 -0000
From: gself@...
Subject: Re: Hitch carriers
I also do weight & Balance calculations when flying - strictly VFR
stuff. I worried about the extra load being placed on the rear
tires. As you know, adding weight behind the rear wheels not only
adds that weight but also moves some of the load from the front tires
to the rear tires. Each individual EVC tire is being run very near
their design load limits.
I guess I worry too much. That may be due to the fact that I also
own a Ford Explorer!!!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:32:30 -0600
From: John Waterman <jwwaterman@...>
Subject: Re: Re: Hitch carriers
I asked Marty about this and he said that the normal weight distribution
of front engine vehicles is about 60/40. His point is that the
additional weight (which is maximum 200 lbs and for me probably closer
to 100) is that having the weight in the back with a somewhat long
moment the weight distribution of the vehicle more closely approaches
50/50.
John
gself@... wrote:
I also do weight & Balance calculations when flying - strictly VFR
stuff. I worried about the extra load being placed on the rear
tires. As you know, adding weight behind the rear wheels not only
adds that weight but also moves some of the load from the front tires
to the rear tires. Each individual EVC tire is being run very near
their design load limits.
I guess I worry too much. That may be due to the fact that I also
own a Ford Explorer!!!
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:36:47 -0400
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
Subject: Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
i repainted my Jamaican blue 92 Caribbean camper green instead . changing
body color also requires
painting the inside areas where doors, hood and hatch close . some of these
areas require careful preparation or paint
will flake off . i'd find a shop willing to properly strip and prepare the
vehicle for a decent job . some budget paint jobs
ignor sanding where it's too difficult .
years ago i had my jetta repainted a different color , i found an
independant shop which let me completely strip
and dewax the vehicle myself in his shop before they sanded it . i pulled
everything ,doors , hood, trunk lid , etc so every opening could be
painted the new color , it looked great when done and cost me $1000.00 cdn.
since then i've purchaced a compressor and paint gun and now repaint my own
vehicles.
don
-----Original Message-----
From: carlton_john@... <carlton_john@...>
To: ev_update@... <ev_update@...>
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:07 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Maaco or Earl Scheib
To the horror of many I imagine, I'm thinking of painting my '93 EV
Weekender at Maaco or Earl Scheib. I'm not keen on its current teal
blue and am considering a dark blue color.
Has anyone painted their EVs at Maaco or Earl Scheib? And if so,
what were the results? The only reason I'm considering it is $$. A
really good paint job will cost me $3k to $4.5k while I can get a
(hopefully) decent paint job at either Maaco or Earl Scheib for about
$1k.
Please share your experiences or thoughts.
Thanks,
John
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:41:29 -0700
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
Subject: install pollen filter on a 93
Hello,
Is it possible to install a pollen filter on a 93 eurovan ?
I want to order 2 items (cup holder, plug kit), is shipping now ok to CA Bay
Area ?
Thanks
christian
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:44:34 -0700
From: Tomas Jones <tomasjones@...>
Subject: Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
I still remember the Earl Scheib ads from when I was a kid in So. California
"I'll paint any car for $29.95"
Cheers, Tomas
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:51:29 -0400
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
Subject: Re: Re: 93 EV-High mileage potential?
it maybe a good idea for those running their ev's without functioning guages
. to get them fixed so that a
leak doesn't go unnoticed . we blew the block to oil cooler hose last winter
and a working guage may save
an engine from an early demise.
don
-----Original Message-----
From: Sklashley@... <Sklashley@...>
To: ev_update@... <ev_update@...>
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 93 EV-High mileage potential?
It may be possible that the early demise of the EV 5cyl is related to the
failure of cooling system fans or coolant leaks.
These seem to be weak points with the '92 - '95 EVs. If you don't keep ahead
of the fan resistors, temp sensors and relays, and the T fittings and coolant
hoses, you could have overheating problems that could easily destroy the
engines.
I have had very good luck with my '93 which is now pushing 160K. I just
replaced the blower motor this past weekend, and the T fitting on the block
for the second time.
Steve Lashley
SKL Enterprises Inc.
636-797-9015
636-789-2127 fax
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:49:55 EDT
From: Sklashley@...
Subject: Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
Find your shop carefully. Not all Maaco or Earl Scheibs are the same.
This past Spring Bosch Power Tools contracted with Maaco to have all of
their
salesman's vehicles painted Bosch blue. The salesman picked up their
vehicle
at a local dealer and then took it to one of the local Maaco shops.
I got a chance to see some of the paint jobs from different Maaco locations.
None of them were even close to being acceptable. Paint runs, overspray,
areas missed around the bumpers or under the sides. Most of the cars had to
be repainted. Some more than twice.
After the first couple of weeks, Bosch stopped the program and decided to
buy
the closest dark blue new vehicles they could get.
Steve Lashley
SKL Enterprises Inc.
636-797-9015
636-789-2127 fax
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:52:08 -0700
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
Subject: Re: install pollen filter on a 93
Please forget this message,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:41 PM
Subject: [ev_update] install pollen filter on a 93
Hello,
Is it possible to install a pollen filter on a 93 eurovan ?
I want to order 2 items (cup holder, plug kit), is shipping now ok to CA Bay
Area ?
Thanks
christian
____________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:53:02 -0400
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
Subject: Re: Re: Belly pan
i've got 3 belly pans stacked up in the backyard !
don
-----Original Message-----
From: prousseau@... <prousseau@...>
To: ev_update@... <ev_update@...>
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:54 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan
While I'm posting, here's another 2 cents. I hate removing the belly
pan and hate the fact I can't see anything, "watch" and understand
my engine with it on. Having the light come from the bottom allows
for better visual inspect from the top and gives bottom visisbility
as well. I've been running 10000 miles without it, so far so good.
Paul
--- In ev_update@y..., "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...> wrote:
All other things being equal it would be better to
operate in the range when the thermostat is just
coming into full open then running just under the fan
temp switch point. Don,
Even granting that the ideal temp range is a range where the
thermostat is
just opening (and I don't know what evidence there is for that) and where
the fans accordingly should hardly ever turn on except when running the A/C,
you are arguing that the hood/grill/bellypan is designed as a coordinated
system in such a way to steadily evacuate air from the engine compartment by
pulling it through the radiators such that the fans are NOT really needed,
thereby keeping temps at an optimized lower-than-what-trips-the- fans AND
high-enough-to-open-the-thermostat range. I follow your logic, but I don't
believe the pan is part of a system that sophisticated and optimized around
keeping the fans off. Why bother? Just run the fans.
I think instead that the pan is more simply part of a system designed to
minimize the costs associated with weatherproofing and protecting vulnerable
underhood components, and that's very important in highly electronic cars
with lots of sensors, wiring and fittings. Likewise, costs are reduced
because the pan forms a physical shield that protects components, wiring and
plumbing thereby eliminating the need to engineer all those things out of
harm's way, or make tem impact resistant. Is the pan also engineered to be
part of a venturi-style cooling system that's optimize for an idealized temp
range lower than the temp range that trips the fans? I highly doubt it.
Could be, but I just don't think so.
----------
From: "Donald " <gibbonsnc@y...>
To: ev_update@y...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan
Date: Tue, Sep 18, 2001, 12:30 PM
I was not thinking so much about the fans as I was about the coolant
temps being lower.
Look at it this way: If you have all other things equal (engine
speed, ground/air speed, grade of road) more air thru the radiator
will give you lower coolant temps.
I don't have my book with me right now but there are two temp ranges
here: Fan switch & thermostat setting. Its clear that no matter what
the ground/air speed the fan will come on when the coolant gets hot
enough. But there is a gap between when the thermostat is fully open
and when the fans come on. All other things being equal it would be
better to operate in the range when the thermostat is just coming
into full open then running just under the fan temp switch point.
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 22:23:44 -0000
From: aberns@...
Subject: Belly Pan/Oil Change
Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:00:40 -0000
From: kunsteins@...
Subject: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:
Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this? I had a mechanic cut an access opening on my 95 EVC, then the same
procedure on my 97 EVC.
Now, my 2001 EVC comes with an access opening precut - almost exactly
as my old 97 EVC.
Kunio
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:11:52 -0000
From: "Donald " <gibbonsnc@...>
Subject: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:
Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this? I have said this before: Its a very bad idea.
And it has nothing to do with cooling.
The only time anyone gets to see your engine/transmission is when the
cover is off during an oil change. If you have cut a hole the cover
does not to be removed and no one gets to inspect anything on the
engine. Untill it breaks or leaks.
There are lots of coolant hoses and fuel lines and rubber boots that
you can get a good look at while the oil is draining.
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 19:17:38 -0400
From: "Don & Karin Thompson" <kdthomp@...>
Subject: Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
----- Original Message -----
From: <carlton_john@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:06 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Maaco or Earl Scheib
To the horror of many I imagine, I'm thinking of painting my '93 EV
Weekender at Maaco or Earl Scheib. I'm not keen on its current teal snip
Please share your experiences or thoughts.
Thanks,
John
I had a Maaco job done on my "93 and it was a BIG waste of money. In
retrospect, I should have paid a good body shop to work on the seam rust and
NOT to change colors.
Don Thompson
ex '93 GL, now '01 MV
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:27:56 -0000
From: sanae@...
Subject: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
While I agree with Don on not removing the pan at all is a bad thing,
I understand the need to be able to do a quick oil change...
Do this, after cutting the "hole", don't throw the "hole" piece
away. Rather, attach a hinge on one side and a catch on the other so
you can open and close the "hole" for those quick oil changes.
At least once a year, you ought to pull the pan and check everything.
Jerry
--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:
Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this? ________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:50:50 -0000
From: gself@...
Subject: Re: Hitch carriers
That's good to know. I was hoping to add something like that for our
6-month trip around the U.S. planned for next year[+1?]. We know we
did not want a trailer because the extra wheels come with speed limit
restrictions in some states.
Thanks for the info.
. . . Gary
--- In ev_update@y..., John Waterman <jwwaterman@w...> wrote:
I asked Marty about this and he said that the normal weight distribution
of front engine vehicles is about 60/40. His point is that the
additional weight (which is maximum 200 lbs and for me probably closer
to 100) is that having the weight in the back with a somewhat long
moment the weight distribution of the vehicle more closely approaches
50/50.
John
gself@j... wrote:
I also do weight & Balance calculations when flying - strictly VFR
stuff. I worried about the extra load being placed on the rear
tires. As you know, adding weight behind the rear wheels not only
adds that weight but also moves some of the load from the front
tires
to the rear tires. Each individual EVC tire is being run very
near
their design load limits.
I guess I worry too much. That may be due to the fact that I also
own a Ford Explorer!!!
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 16:51:20 -0700
From: Baldy <baldy@...>
Subject: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
At 10:23 PM 9/18/2001 +0000, aberns@... wrote:
Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this? Go here:
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:25:41 -0400
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
Subject: belly pan
i kind of worry about the pan soaking up a telltale leak before it's noticed
in time. the absence of a pan allows me
to peek under more often than every oil change. maybe if the sound pad was
removed and the inside of the pan
painted bright white leaks could be spotted. my tranporter's 1st owner
didn't notice an oil leak that soaked and softened
the main timing belt . it stripped teeth and a piston punched open valves
into the head.
don
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 00:38:51 -0000
From: plthe@...
Subject: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?
My wife rear-ended an Econoline, thus attacking its bumper with our
engine. She wasn't hurt other than having a sore neck for a few days,
but in addition to extensive nose damge, the body shop tells me one
of the engine mounts sheared off the block. First time he'd seen such
a thing in thirty years of body shop work, he said.
I assume the labor cost of putting all the existing engine parts on a
new block would equal the cost of just swapping in the new 201hp
engine, which the local dealer tells me would probably work fine with
the rest of the van.
Does anyone know if the 201hp engine can swap in without requiring
mods?
Also, my mechanic tells me the insurance companies just want to pay
for broken parts and labor, even if the cost = a new engine. Anyone
know about that? We're with Farmer's.
BTW thus far Farmer's has been good to us about this.
BTW BTW one of the tables was set up at the time of the crash, and it
apparently broke the leg in some way.
Lee Th
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 19:45:39 -0500
From: "Madeleine Dewar" <madewar@...>
Subject: Re: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
"my 2001 EVC comes with an access opening precut - almost exactly as my old
97 EVC."
Is this simply a hole or is it a hole with a covering?
Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine
----- Original Message -----
From: kunsteins@...
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 6:00 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:
> Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
> belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in
the
> belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?
I had a mechanic cut an access opening on my 95 EVC, then the same
procedure on my 97 EVC.
Now, my 2001 EVC comes with an access opening precut - almost exactly
as my old 97 EVC.
Kunio
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 16:53:05 -0700
From: Baldy <baldy@...>
Subject: Re: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
At 11:11 PM 9/18/2001 +0000, Donald wrote:
--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:
Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this? I have said this before: Its a very bad idea. Its such a bad idea that VW decided to do it on the later production dates
of 2000 and all 2001. So much for that theory.
Baldy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 00:52:10 -0000
From: jander14@...
Subject: Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
--- In ev_update@y..., Sklashley@a... wrote:
Find your shop carefully. Not all Maaco or Earl Scheibs are the same.
The main thing about any cheapo paint job is lack of proper prep
folks. I've said this many times on Vanagon over the years, it is
prep time you pay for, spraying a car is a joke, but the difference
between $200, $1000, $5000 jobs is almost all in the prep and some in
the materials themselves. I've shot $1100 in materials alone on a
friends '73 Vette, if you counted my time it would have pushed a
$6000 job most likely. The good news is YOU CAN MAKE THE DIFFERENCE
to a great extent all by yourself. For anyone interested more go
look in the vanagon archives but my short form is this.
1. Wash the van entirely with hot water and a little TSP, DON'T
use "car wash" that doesn't remove wax you want to remove it. Rinse
real well, hot water is great again.
2. Go by a can of real auto paint prep degreaser, PPG AcyliClean is
great but so are cheapo things from Autozone or a budget paint supply
house. Buy a pack of 50 red shop towels at SAMS wash them 2 times in
detergent and bleach, once in just water, dry. Use MANY of those
towels to degrease, one wet, follow with one dry, change the dry
often, use about 10 towels for the van.
3. Now do any body work you want to do, fill pinholes, spot prime,
whatever I'm not getting into that.
4. MOST IMPORTANT TIP, scrub the entire van now with 400-600ish wet
dry done wet OR easier and better with a relatively coarse/medium
painters "scotch bright" pad from an auto paint shop, you will need a
few. If you can't find em, a regular new green dishwashing pad will
do but breaks down faster. Scrub it all, all the seams, nooks,
crannies, flats, etc. Use the wet dry to featheredge primer you put
on, level spot glazing putty, etc but scrub it all with the abrasive
pad. By coarse I mean these are still like effective 400 grit or so.
5. Wash van with a little TSP in hot water, rinse many times.
6. Degrease van again with degreaser.
7. For the ultimate take thin wire (a single strand of telephone wire
is great) and tuck it underneath the edge of all the rubber seals on
all the windows with a broken popsickle stick or whatever so it lifts
up the edge of the rubber. Then YOU apply good masking tape and wrap
it just over the edge of the now lifted rubber. You should tape the
entire van yourself in fact for a good job, or at least for the job
you deserve because you did it if using a real cheapo place.
8. Take it to Scheib and give em $200 or whatever.
All said this will cost you maybe $50 in stuff (less likely) and will
make the job infinitely better looking, and lasting. The wire under
the rubber trick is exceptionally good as paint gets wicked a hair
under the rubber, you have no masking marks, the rubber covers back
down. The results of that are amazing I've done panel repairs where
you couldn't tell around the windows it looks so perfect. I don't
like any "professional" who doesn't do this on a $1000+ job. Another
good tip find a foam rubber "WonderBlock" to sand with, lasts in the
water for wet sanding and is comfortable to use. Do this and you can
turn a $200 job into a $1000 for about a days work. Well worth the
time. The Scheib guy can probably spray a nice finish well enough he
does it all day long, and the paint probably will last 5+ years if
cared for but the details make the job.
John
jander14@...
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:53:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Larry Schellhase <schellhase@...>
Subject: Re: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?
Lee, I am glad to hear Phyl is OK, too bad about the
accident. But, regarding the increased hp engine, you're
really just trying to find a way to break you EVC land
speed record, right?
Larry
--- plthe@... wrote:
My wife rear-ended an Econoline, thus attacking its
bumper with our
engine. She wasn't hurt other than having a sore neck for
a few days,
but in addition to extensive nose damge, the body shop
tells me one
of the engine mounts sheared off the block. First time
he'd seen such
a thing in thirty years of body shop work, he said.
I assume the labor cost of putting all the existing
engine parts on a
new block would equal the cost of just swapping in the
new 201hp
engine, which the local dealer tells me would probably
work fine with
the rest of the van.
Does anyone know if the 201hp engine can swap in without
requiring
mods?
Also, my mechanic tells me the insurance companies just
want to pay
for broken parts and labor, even if the cost = a new
engine. Anyone
know about that? We're with Farmer's.
BTW thus far Farmer's has been good to us about this.
BTW BTW one of the tables was set up at the time of the
crash, and it
apparently broke the leg in some way.
Lee Th
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 01:01:05 -0000
From: serge@...
Subject: Re: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?
... regarding the increased hp engine, you're
really just trying to find a way to break you EVC land
speed record, right? Which brings up the question, just how fast has everyone gone in their
EV/EVCs? 90? 100? 110? Faster?
(any numbers provided would be assumed to have been reached on a
closed course, of course).
Serge
2001 EVC "Beluga" (100MPH)
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 18:37:12 -0700
From: "IronWood Designs" <zawalick@...>
Subject: RE: Re: Overheating - HELP !! FIXED
James (et al.),
Be wary of these laser guided temperature sensors. If the emissivity
setting is not dialed in for the material you are measuring, it can be way
off. Also you can get totally unpredictable results when measuring
something shiny like chrome or aluminum. I'd trust the dash gauge first.
Stevie-z
-----Original Message-----
From: James 'JC' Gochoco [mailto:ieworld@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 9:00 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: Overheating - HELP !! FIXED
[snip]
He checked also temp by using a Laser gun and gives
the reading. The reading from the Laser Gun is much
lower what we are getting from the Dashboard.
[snip]
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 18:43:12 -0700
From: "IronWood Designs" <zawalick@...>
Subject: RE: Maaco or Earl Scheib
[snip]since then i've purchaced a compressor and paint gun and now repaint
my own
vehicles.
don
[snip]
Don,
What kind of equipment do you have? Do you have a booth? What about
purchasing the paint, out here in CA they are VERY careful about who they
sell to. Do you use HVLP conversion? Air drier? What kind of paint?
Clearcoat? This would be a good topic for groop.
Stevie-z
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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|
Great info John. Everyone has different experiences in this area and
usually sticks with 'what works,' so it's always good to see where folks
have evolved. I've been using a Fuji HVLP turbine driven gun and conversion
(compressor) driven HVLP touchup guns mostly on furniture, but I did do a
CBR600 F2 in metallic green with a clear coat. Turned out nearly perfect.
Stevie-z
'93 GL w/133K mi in CA
|
Hi,
I've decided on a Eurovan MV for my next vehicle. However, I cannot
afford a brand spanking new one, so I'm going to search out at 93-97
one. Is there a checklist on the web or buried in the archives (I
couldn't find one) of questions to go through or things to look
for/at when viewing as used MV? If this hasn't been created already I
think it would be a great asset to those looking for used eurovans.
Also, can anyone suggest a VW dealer who is familiar with eurovans
in the DC metro area?
Thanks
-oaitw
|
Re: Danger: Transmission fails to downshift
downshift on two occassions. When the automatic
transmission has
failed to downshift, applying the foot brake does
not stop the car.
My wife had to throw the moving car into park into
order to stop and
avoid hitting another car. We have had two different I'm sure I'm not going to be the only guy making this comment, but, I find it hard to believe that standing on the brake pedal will not bring a vehicle to a satisfactory stop (unless, of course, you're tailgating, which I'm sure you're not, right?(!)) That's kind of like saying the Audi 5000s were all named Christine... Are you sure all four brakes are functioning the way they're supposed to. Well, OK, they must not be if you're reporting this problem, but, you know what I mean... Norman __________________________________________________ Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help? Donate cash, emergency relief information
|
Hi,
I wish that A/C was an option with the diesel. Not enough power.
After the truck left me, the temperature went back down.
I have the belly pan, but took out the deadening material after an
injector diesel leak.
Bill
joseph O Becker wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Was the air conditioner running? If so this could have caused it to run
hot or overheat while driving. Was there any other problems in the
cooling system? Low coolant or slow leak? Loose belt? etc. Also you
will notice the coolant fans will cycle as the air conditioning cycles.
Press the button to the right (on 97 models) of the a/c switch and the
a/c compressor runs continiously. I havent checked my 97 EVC but on
other vehicles with 2 cooling fans only 1 runs to cool the engine as
necessary and both run with the a/c on.
___________________________________________________
|
Danger: Transmission fails to downshift
I have a 1999 Eurovan weekender and we have had problems since day
one with the transmission. There are two problems. First the engine
peroidically revs up to almost 5000 rpm before shifting into third
gear. Second and most importantly, the transmission has failed to
downshift on two occassions. When the automatic transmission has
failed to downshift, applying the foot brake does not stop the car.
My wife had to throw the moving car into park into order to stop and
avoid hitting another car. We have had two different VW dealerships
try on six occassions to fix the problems, but with no sucess. When
they can reproduce the problem, their fix is only temporary.
Currently, the VW dealership can not duplicate the problem and
nothing shows up on their computer codes. VW has taken the position
that if there are no error codes, then the car is functioning as
designed and is safe. Well that is a bunch of BS and I am not
putting my family in car.
Any suggestions on solutions or similar experiences?
|
TP Tools (painting and body supplies)
I thought I'd note their www it is
www.tptools.com
TP used to be TIP and is a long time player in the car hobby tool
field, all of their stuff is 1st rate, sometimes it costs more but it
is usually worth it. Good deals on blast cabinets and pots are best
had at the major shows, Carlisle on this coast, especially at the end
of the day when they don't want to take show models home and will
take offers. I have the 99'er pressure pot, and have bought numerous
other things from them. The shop in Canfield, Ohio is great to go
walk through but hold onto your wallet less you buy everything. They
aren't always the best price though, just use em as a guide. Usually
more reasonable than Eastwood. I'd shy from a turbine HVLP system as
the things spray dry despite what they claim, the learning curve is
steep to use em well. Plus a fair 5hp compressor (which I'd buy at
SAM'S club) will be more versatile for tools etc. Look around used
to I gave $50 for a 18 cfm @ 180 psi Korean war surplus DeVilbiss
with 5hp B&S gas engine and a 5hp electric as well, thing can pump
all day long. TP wants $159 for the Sharpe Cobalt gun right now, $99
for some imports, like I said I got a deal and paid $175 for the SGF
($225 list) a few years ago local so look around.
John
jander14@...
|
