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Fw: wtc attack web art

Madeleine Dewar
 

Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine

----- Original Message -----
From: "SHOOTER31" <shooter31@...>
Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2001 10:35 PM
Subject: wtc attack web art


watch this. no comment necessary. takes a while to load so be patient.

www.beyondirc.com


Re: Norcold #3 Saga (cont'd.)

 

Doug-

How much did you have to pay for a replacement Norcold? I think ours is
not happy, and need to get an idea of how much I'm getting myself into.

Ours is not as bad as yours, and we're only haveing noticeable problems
when the weather gets up over 90F or so. We're leaving on a trip next
friday, and I've started the fridge this weekend to see if it's going
to work for us. Since the weather has been cooler, we're doing ok, but
it's really irritating when the fridge can't hold temp while driving to
Southen Colorado in July.

artcraftrolls@... wrote:

Hello Eurovan fans,

My 3rd Norcold (since '97), which I had to purchase, here in Maine,
since #1 (D.O.A. from Winnebago-VW) and #2 died (just after the
guarantee ran out!), is going to Auburn, ME, for a few days. I'm
going with it.

We've never had trouble with our "single vent" Dometic in the '81
Vanagon Camper, still going strong, and pulling my piano to concerts
in its matching 5x8 Haulmark trailer with a ramp/remote control
winch. Ditto for the Dometic in the Aliner trailer and the one in our
travel trailer, which stays "put" in Searsport Shores, Maine - 100
miles North of Wiscasset, our home. (We can't pull a 32 foot Salem
trailer, so had it delivered!)

Anyway, I have to prove that the coils are failing again ... and,
yes, this is a "single vent" type, but the flame never goes out, not
even on the mountains around Flagstaff AZ, which is beyond the 4000
ft. level. Mostly, it's on sea level, here in New England.

Last week it cost me $92.00 in labour + sitting in the waiting room
for AN ENTIRE DAY while the refrigerator was pulled in/out for 4
hours at a time ... scratching the metal frame on every withdrawal,
followed by "it works, here!". Of course, it takes overnight to show
that there's blockage in the coil system, so the gas flame stayed on
... it ran fine for the 2 hours of driving back home ... and then
died overnight, as I knew it would.

As we've had things "disappear" (clothing, appliances, tools,
utensils) from our Vanagon Camper on trips through TX and MD, I
decided to 'live in the upper berth' for 1-2 days, in their parking
lot ... in order to get Norcold honoring their guarantee, for last
October's installation. That means another "after the Season" (cold
weather installation, doesn't it, and proofing #4 - or new coils -
next Summer, since Maine doesn't really have a Spring).

If I drive, or the dealership pulls the Norcold #3163 in/out, it
"shakes up" the system, so runs for a few hours. Driving, it's fine.
Parked, it's DEAD-DEAD-DEAD in about 6-8 hours' time.

Thus, I'm getting the gas-oil mixture for the little 350w Honda
generator (placed outside), my laptops, cell 'phone for E-Mail, etc.
etc. for a 1-2 day "stay" with the Eurovan while #3 shows it's
another Norcold lemon. (When working, it can explode soda pop cans on
12v DC, which is why I check it every 2 hours, turning it on/off and
using a thermometer inside, when driving all day long.)

I level with a Stanley gauge (which shouldn't be necessary), that has
bubbles for 90 degrees + 45 degress, also. Meanwhile, our Dometics,
going back 20 years, work in DC/AC/propane modes, with any fuss.

If #4 (since April '97) fails, can a Dometic be fitted to the
Eurovan? I really think the problem is LACK OF QUALITY CONTROL at
Norcold, since my 3 refrigerators came from 3 sources (2 were VW for
Winnebago and this is a Winnebago-RV dealership which sells Rialtas,
in Maine).

Once I get the Norcold problem solved, then the vehicle which took 13
months ('97 to '98) to prep, will be "finished". Winnebago dribbled
in non-fitting bug screens, twice, the 2nd set a year late, but
prepaid. Ditto for the Add-a-Room features and the rest of their
things, like the roof rack & pod, but ... I liked the design, so
stuck with it. We have to drive 245 miles to NH for service, from
Maine, so that came to 1300 miles and a lot of "lost time" for my
one-person Pianola roll business. Except for the Norcold, the Camper
was "put together" after all that time.

The VW part of the Eurovan Camper was, of course, fine. Have had VWs
- plus a '27 Franklin - since '54 (as a teenager) - so know most of
the good/bad models. Had 5 Type IIs before the Vanagon, for example.
[Like air-cooled engines, really, which explains the Franklin.]

Am sure the "aren't you sure you didn't do this/that?" routine will
start again, after it's dead-on-a-gas-flame while I sleep in the
vehicle. This is not scenic Maine, but a crossroads where you can
view a Rite-Aid, a couple of gas stations and watch the industrial
trucks head for the mountains. (I could be camping on asphalt in
Emeryville CA of the 'Fifties, really!)

If that gets a Norcold which works, I guess it will be worth it.

Hoping for the best, starting tomorrow, while the Norcold "dies"
again, to prove its point.

Regards,
(signed) Douglas Henderson

ARTCRAFT Music Rolls


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kidwiler
 


Re: Belly pan

Michael G. McCarthy
 

This is a water-cooled engine. The pan has nothing to do with cooling.

----------
From: joseph O Becker <geeko6@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Belly pan
Date: Sun, Sep 16, 2001, 4:05 PM


The belly pans function is to dirrect the air around the engine.
Removing it could cause hot spot on the block or cylinder head and
improper cooling of the radiator.
________________________________________________________________
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Re: 93 will MV rear seat fit GL?

 

My last reply seems to have disappeared.

You will have to drill 10 new holes and install a reinforcing plate
behind each one.
- 2 holes each to mount the 2 guide rails (they are about 4 ' long and
mounted to the floor close to the wheel wells.
- 2 holes each to mount the 2 the frames for the rear shelf (behind
the rails
- 1 hole in each wheel well brace the frames.

You can probably use the existing upper seat back mounts.
and you will have to plug the 4 existing holes in the middle of the
floor.
You will have to remove the middle row seats in order to slide the bed
open.

VW uses 1.5 x 2.5 " plates with attached threaded nut for the
mounting holes. They are set in goop and pop-rivetted in place.


I have a GL too. I built a shelf behind the rear seat that is the same
height as the rear seat back when folded. (19" high, 58" wide , 25-27"
deep). I have a second shelf (24" x 58") that I position in front.
I use 2 thermarest mattresses on top of the resulting platform.

I have LOTS of storage space under this bed!
and I can keep the middle row seats in place (folded down)

Marcel van der Sluis
92EVGL 8 passenger






--- In ev_update@y..., SPENCERVW@A... wrote:
Anyone know if the fold down seat/bed from a MV can be installed in
a
standard 93 GL? I would think all the holes and attaching points are
there
somewhere. I have been pulling the seats and using a blow up
mattress. Thanks
Spencer


Re: 93 will MV rear seat fit GL?

 

--- In ev_update@y..., SPENCERVW@A... wrote:
Anyone know if the fold down seat/bed from a MV can be installed in
a
standard 93 GL? I would think all the holes and attaching points are
there
somewhere. I have been pulling the seats and using a blow up
mattress. Thanks
Spencer


Re: 93 will MV rear seat fit GL?

 

It would not be a bolt in replacement!
The GL rear seat mounts to the floor with four bolts. They are in an
approximately square pattern about 14", in the middle of the floor.

The MV seat rolls in two guide rails, mounted against the wheel wells
(about 4' apart) These tracks are bolted down with two bolts each.
The "bedboard" (rear shelf) has a frame on each side bolted to the
floor with two bolts and a third bolt near the top of the wheel well.

You would have to drill 10 new holes, and reinforce them. VW uses a
small plate about 1.5" x 2.5" with a threaded nut welded to it for
each hole. These are sealed with goop and pop-riveted to the underside
of the floor. I assume the attachment points at the top of the seat
back would be the same on a GL and a MV. You would have to remove the
center row of seats in order to slide the bed open.

I have a GL and I made a bed by building a plywood shelf behind the
rear bench that is the same height as the rear bench with the back
rest folded down. It is approx. 19" high, 58" wide, 25-27" long (to
match the curve of the rear hatch) It is a little narrower than the
width of the van so that I can manouver it in place. I have a second
shelf (24" x 58") that I rest on the rear head rests and something in
front (the middle row seats folded down or legs or my big cooler with
a spacer...). I use two self inflating mattresses (Thermarest
style)on top of the resulting platform.

My bed is about 6" higher then a MV bed but I have LOTS of storage
space under the rear shelf and under the front shelf!
.. and I can leave the middle row seats in place.

Marcel van der Sluis
92EV GL 8 passenger, double slliding doors.








--- In ev_update@y..., SPENCERVW@A... wrote:
Anyone know if the fold down seat/bed from a MV can be installed in
a
standard 93 GL? I would think all the holes and attaching points are
there
somewhere. I have been pulling the seats and using a blow up
mattress. Thanks
Spencer


93 A/C Question

 

Hey All,
My '93 EV's A/C compressor is cycling on and off at idle. If I hold
the engine at 2000 rpm, it seems to work ok. Any suggestions?

Frank

93 EV MV WK
90 Audi 100


Re: 93 will MV rear seat fit GL?

David Iverson
 

It would probably work, however, the MV seat/bed slides on rails, so would
need that and the attachment points at the (2) top corners of the seat back.
(along with the support of the cuddy compartments and rear cushion etc.)

-----Original Message-----
From: SPENCERVW@... [mailto:SPENCERVW@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2001 1:30 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] 93 will MV rear seat fit GL?


Anyone know if the fold down seat/bed from a MV can be installed in a
standard 93 GL? I would think all the holes and attaching points are there
somewhere. I have been pulling the seats and using a blow up mattress.
Thanks
Spencer




Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


Alloy wheels for sale

Christian R.
 

Hi,
I have a set of 4 alloy wheels for sale,
their are stock passat 98-01 - 7 spoke with bolt pattern 5x112
They still have tires on them (Michelin Energy plus)
I got that set to install on my EV but I got an other set of 5 spoke from an
audi and I like them better.
These wheels were never installed on my EV, one tire is new (coming from the
spare) and 3 other are used but don't meet the loading rate.

I'm in the bay area and would like not to ship them.
I can remove the tire before selling if you do not want them.
Pictures available upon request.
Christian


Buses by the Buoy

Ed Davis
 

Returned this afternoon. Lots of friendly people, lovely weather,
great campsite on the water. Buses of all types from early vans to a
Rialta. American flags everywhere, courtesy of the American Legion.
Outstanding dinner with lobster, steamers, chowdah. Great experience
that we plan to repeat. Many thanks to Rich and everyone who worked
to put it on.

Ed
'99 EVC


Re: remove

 

Can I also be removed from the list
________________________________________________________________
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Removing a Norcold for Servicing

 

Hi,

I'm trying to service the Norcold refrigerator on my
2001 EVC. I've followed the procedure described on
Rich's Eurovan site ()
to remove the fridge. However, I can't budge it out of its space.
(I need to replace the thermocouple, and I'm doing
it on my own as a learning exercise.)

Any tips on removing the fridge? I'm worried about bending
hoses or lines that shouldn't be bent.

thanks!
-Mark
2001 EVC


Alloy wheels for sale

Christian R.
 

I have a set of 4 alloy wheels for sale,
their are stock passat 98-01 7 spoke with bolt pattern 5x112
They still have tires on them (Michelin Energy plus)
I got that set to install on my EV but I got an other set of 5 spoke from an
audi and I like them better.
These wheels were never installed on my EV, one tire is new (coming from the
spare) and 3 other are used but don't meet the loading rate.

I'm in the bay area and would like not to ship them.
I can remove the tire before selling if you do not want them.
Pictures available upon request.
Christian


Re: Belly pan

 

The belly pans function is to dirrect the air around the engine.
Removing it could cause hot spot on the block or cylinder head and
improper cooling of the radiator.
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
.


Re: is it worth replacing an engine?

IronWood Designs
 

Mark,

If everything else is working fine, why not replace the engine completely?
At a minimum, I'd replace it with the 81K mi engine. Have you spec'd out
the cost of a new engine? It's the Audi 5 cyl, right?

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Kumler [mailto:kumler@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2001 5:56 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] is it worth replacing an engine?


I was driving my '93 MV from southern California to the S.F. Bay
area, where I intended to leave it with in-laws while I headed off to New
Zealand for a year. It was a hot (*very* hot) day, but the van had
recently had a major tune, was performing wonderfully as usual, and I
plowed through the Central Valley with the AC on. After a lengthy lunch
break (when the engine should have cooled down a bit), I hit the road
again. But within 10 minutes the AC faded, I lost considerable power, and
I barely made it off the highway before a t-valve in the cooling system
blew and -- as I would later learn -- the head was irreparably damaged.
My boys loved the ride in the tow truck and the unexpected Sunday
(or
course) evening in a hotel pool, but I hated the news the next day that it
would be several days and several hundred dollars, at a minimum. After
several trans-Pacific phone calls and nearly 8 weeks, I hear that it'll be
$2200-$2500 for a new head, piston rings, etc. For an engine that already
has 150,000 miles on it.
I'm trying to decide whether to a) repair it, b) buy and have
installed a newer engine ("81,000 miles, compression: 175") from an
unknown
dismantler I found on the web, for about the same total price, or c) sell
it for parts and buy a newer (but still used) one when I return to the
States in a year. Any suggestions?



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Re: is it worth replacing an engine?

 

Mark,

If you really like the MV (does it have the WKR package?) and want to
hold on to it, you need to be prepared to spend at least $3-4K to
take care of all the items mentioned by Mike (they're good ideas).
You could bring that number down a bit if you have good access to
quality tools and can do some of the work.

Your other options might be to consider:
1. an engine swap, a chipped 1.9 TDI? or
2. hold on to this one (as a parts vehicle) and buy another 93 MV, or
3. buy a 00/01 MV

I hope you go for the TDI option...

Jerry

--- In ev_update@y..., Mark Kumler <kumler@x> wrote:
I was driving my '93 MV from southern California to the S.F.
Bay
area, where I intended to leave it with in-laws while I headed off
to New
Zealand for a year. It was a hot (*very* hot) day, but the van had
recently had a major tune, was performing wonderfully as usual, and
I
plowed through the Central Valley with the AC on. After a lengthy
lunch
break (when the engine should have cooled down a bit), I hit the
road
again. But within 10 minutes the AC faded, I lost considerable
power, and
I barely made it off the highway before a t-valve in the cooling
system
blew and -- as I would later learn -- the head was irreparably
damaged.
My boys loved the ride in the tow truck and the unexpected
Sunday (or
course) evening in a hotel pool, but I hated the news the next day
that it
would be several days and several hundred dollars, at a minimum.
After
several trans-Pacific phone calls and nearly 8 weeks, I hear that
it'll be
$2200-$2500 for a new head, piston rings, etc. For an engine that
already
has 150,000 miles on it.
I'm trying to decide whether to a) repair it, b) buy and have
installed a newer engine ("81,000 miles, compression: 175") from an
unknown
dismantler I found on the web, for about the same total price, or
c) sell
it for parts and buy a newer (but still used) one when I return to
the
States in a year. Any suggestions?


Re: is it worth replacing an engine?

Christian R.
 

Where is your van repair being estimated ?
You could try the bettle clinic in San Mateo, Bay Area.
That is a great, excelent mecanic for VW.
He knows very well the eurovan.
You could probably call him to have a second estimate.
I can send the phone number if you are interested.
Christian

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Kumler" <kumler@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2001 5:55 AM
Subject: [ev_update] is it worth replacing an engine?


I was driving my '93 MV from southern California to the S.F. Bay
area, where I intended to leave it with in-laws while I headed off to New
Zealand for a year. It was a hot (*very* hot) day, but the van had
recently had a major tune, was performing wonderfully as usual, and I
plowed through the Central Valley with the AC on. After a lengthy lunch
break (when the engine should have cooled down a bit), I hit the road
again. But within 10 minutes the AC faded, I lost considerable power, and
I barely made it off the highway before a t-valve in the cooling system
blew and -- as I would later learn -- the head was irreparably damaged.
My boys loved the ride in the tow truck and the unexpected Sunday
(or
course) evening in a hotel pool, but I hated the news the next day that it
would be several days and several hundred dollars, at a minimum. After
several trans-Pacific phone calls and nearly 8 weeks, I hear that it'll be
$2200-$2500 for a new head, piston rings, etc. For an engine that already
has 150,000 miles on it.
I'm trying to decide whether to a) repair it, b) buy and have
installed a newer engine ("81,000 miles, compression: 175") from an
unknown
dismantler I found on the web, for about the same total price, or c) sell
it for parts and buy a newer (but still used) one when I return to the
States in a year. Any suggestions?






Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


93 will MV rear seat fit GL?

 

Anyone know if the fold down seat/bed from a MV can be installed in a
standard 93 GL? I would think all the holes and attaching points are there
somewhere. I have been pulling the seats and using a blow up mattress. Thanks
Spencer


Re: is it worth replacing an engine?

Michael G. McCarthy
 

I agree your block's a little long in the tooth. I like the engine with 81K
much better, but there would have to be assurances that the block really
does hit 175 and the top end is quiet. If you have a manual transmission,
now's the time to do the clutch if it hasn't been done within the last 50K
(if you have an automatic, I wonder if Plan C makes the most sense). If you
are going to pull the entire engine, it become economical to do other things
too (eg, new boots for the half-shafts, new coolant hoses, and other soft
parts too) and that's just not the case when just swapping a head, which is
all the more reason I like the 81K engine.


----------
From: Mark Kumler <kumler@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] is it worth replacing an engine?
Date: Sun, Sep 16, 2001, 8:55 AM


I was driving my '93 MV from southern California to the S.F. Bay
area, where I intended to leave it with in-laws while I headed off to New
Zealand for a year. It was a hot (*very* hot) day, but the van had
recently had a major tune, was performing wonderfully as usual, and I
plowed through the Central Valley with the AC on. After a lengthy lunch
break (when the engine should have cooled down a bit), I hit the road
again. But within 10 minutes the AC faded, I lost considerable power, and
I barely made it off the highway before a t-valve in the cooling system
blew and -- as I would later learn -- the head was irreparably damaged.
My boys loved the ride in the tow truck and the unexpected Sunday (or
course) evening in a hotel pool, but I hated the news the next day that it
would be several days and several hundred dollars, at a minimum. After
several trans-Pacific phone calls and nearly 8 weeks, I hear that it'll be
$2200-$2500 for a new head, piston rings, etc. For an engine that already
has 150,000 miles on it.
I'm trying to decide whether to a) repair it, b) buy and have
installed a newer engine ("81,000 miles, compression: 175") from an unknown
dismantler I found on the web, for about the same total price, or c) sell
it for parts and buy a newer (but still used) one when I return to the
States in a year. Any suggestions?



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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<> .