开云体育

Don't worry about it. I've been totally glued to a TV that hasn't been on for over a month before this... I appreciate it and whenever you get there is fine.

Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine

Can you give me some indication where this switch is located ?
Thanks
Christian

Some sent me a slide show of this past week's events that I found both horrifying and fascinatingly appropriate. I must warn y'all that it is graphic and includes people falling from the towers. Anyone who would like a copy of this please email me personally at madewar@....

Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine

Hi Jerry,

Fans are working and is roaring load. This happens
during city drive. I am not towing anything and the
coolant level is in Max. I have not turn on my heater
and when it hits 230 my A/C is not turn on.

This puzzles me a lot. There is no engine leak that I
know of.


I will looking to this tommorow and will post later
tommorow any results.

Thanks.

JC.


--- sanae@... wrote:

JC,

Need more info, so the temp gauge just started
showing this? Is it
happening in city driving? Towing? in hot weather
only? Is your
coolant level low? what happens when you run the
heater when its at
230? Do you know if the fans work? ...

Jerry



--- In ev_update@y..., ieworld@y... wrote:

Hi All:

I just notice lately that the temp GAUGE has

start touching 230

degrees. I like to solicit opinions to as what

might be wrong in
this

kind of scenario.

My car is a 93 EV GL. Any inputs is highly

appreciated.

Thank you!

JC

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James Gochoco
Analyst / Programmer
Eurovan GL 93
Toyota Landcrusier 1999

__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information

My 2.5L has been making a ticking noise for over 100,000 miles (~143K right
now). You can basically only notice it when the hood is open. I don't have
piston slap noise.

Pulling the radiator forward (remove four bolts) gives more room, but
working on it can still really be a pain. I haven't replaced my timing belt
yet, though I worry about it off and on. Most on this list would suggest
replacing it around 100K.

EVs with VR6 engines have a larger engine compartment -- the nose sticks out
further. I don't think it is possible to put a VR6 in the older frame
without some serious body modifications.

Both Fans are running an like roaring very loud. I
opened the Hood and the Bottle seems normal not
boiling. Anyway, I will take the van to my mechanic
tommorow.

I have gathered all responses from members that
responded and have them check against the situation.

I will post the result later tommorow.

Thanks All!!

JC.




--- IronWood Designs <zawalick@...> wrote:

Are both fans running? If not, see previous posts.
Also check to see that
the radiator louvers are opening.

Stevie-z
93 GL w/133K
-----Original Message-----
From: ieworld@... [mailto:ieworld@...]
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2001 8:04 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Overheating - HELP !!


Hi All:

I just notice lately that the temp GAUGE has
start touching 230
degrees. I like to solicit opinions to as what
might be wrong in this
kind of scenario.

My car is a 93 EV GL. Any inputs is highly
appreciated.


Thank you!

JC






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=====
James Gochoco
Analyst / Programmer
Eurovan GL 93
Toyota Landcrusier 1999

__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information

Techno Blue. 9,500 miles. Flawless.
Mudflaps, and nose cover included.
Change in type of work no longer requires carrying capacity of this
wonderful vehicle. $29,500 firm.
Please email to hobydouglass@... if interested.

I have two Agilis with about 20,000 mi that I would be
willing to sell.

Where are you located?

Larry
LA, CA


--- kta95409@... wrote:

for all, the events of the past 36 hours have been
overwhelming. I am
sure there are people on this list that have been lost or
who have lost
loved ones. The everyday issues that we tend to whine
about seem so
mundane, and trivial now.

All that aside, I drove into a hole and blew out an
Agilis. I cannot
find a replacement. Does anyone have a spare tire or 2
with decent
tread that they would be willing to sell? (my spare is a
goodyear).

Peace, and hope --
Kate
93 MV



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Item #: 595428764
Title: Volkswagen:Van EuroVan Camper Top EuroVan LOW RESERVE
Price: $1.00
Bids: 1
Starts: Sep-13-01 18:45:12 PDT
URL:


Item #: 595427857
Title: Volkswagen:Van Eurovan GL VW Eurovan GL. NO RESERVE.
Price: $1.00
Bids: 1
Starts: Sep-13-01 18:31:58 PDT
URL:

Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine

Anyone get any notes about Busses around the Buoy this last few days? Is
it still on for the weekend?

Gary

--- In ev_update@y..., lars@b... wrote:

--- In ev_update@y..., "Vance, Beaumont W." <Beaumont.Vance@v...>
wrote:

I have 101k on my 95 EVC> According to an Audi mechanic I talked to

they

will run 300k easily. He said that it is easy to find used Audi 5

cylinder

engines because they outlast the auto body.

I know I'm replying to an old message but...I was told that the Audi
2.5L is a truck motor used in Europe. Is this motor easily found in
North American wrecking yards? If so, what vehicles had it?

...lars

Lars-

The 5cyl audi engines used in US amrket vehicles was a 2.2 liter.
The VW engine is based on this block, but is a different beast. It was
built for power rather than speed.

NED
93 Weekender

--- In ev_update@y..., lars@b... wrote:

Just looked at a Westfalia this evening. My wife and I were
originally planning on spending around CAD$8000 (USD$5000) on a
Vanagon and then doing a motor swap but came across a '92 Eurovan
Westy for CAD$19,000 (USD$11,875) tonight. It was in immaculate
condition and has 185,000km (115,000 mi) on it.

Every looked good except the motor (Audi 2.5L) made a kind of a
ticking noise. It wasn't exactly a tick sound but similar...maybe a
small exhaust header leak...or maybe it was normal, I'm not sure.
When it first started up, the motor sounded a bit noisy (remotely
similar to a diesel) but smoothed out with 1 or 2 seconds. Now, I've
heard that '93 EVs had a piston slap problem and I am wondering if
that's what I heard on this '92. Opinions?

-----My 93 makes a ticking noise too. It is a valve issue, and is
relatively harmless according to my mechanic. It generally disappears
after the engine is well warmed up. The diesel-like noise at start-up
is fairly normal too. 5cyl engines just have an odd noise to them.

If it is a piston slap problem, would VW provide a cheap replacement
motor if I'm the 2nd or 3rd owner? Ok, stop laughing, it was worth a
shot.

Is the piston slap problem serious or just an annoyance? Some Jeep
4.0L motors had the same problem but it wasn't supposed to adversely
affect the motor's lifespan (although I've been skeptical).

Anything else I need to watch out for? I might have another look at
it tomorrow in the daylight.

Oh, I do all the work on my wife's Subaru and my Jeep YJ. They're
both really easy to work on. The EV's engine compartment looked very
crowded. Anyone have opinions on that? Is it a real bear to work
with?

-----I t is crowded under the hood, but the radiator and grille
assembly swing forward to allow you to get to the spark plugs, and the
rest of the fluids/filters can be gotten to without much disassembly.
The belly pan does need to be removed for oil changes, so you need to
get the van high enough in the air for aequate clearance. Others on
the list have removed the pan, but I don't suggest it, as it protects
the bottom of the engine from damage.

When does the timing belt need to be changed and how ugly is the
job? What about the water pump?

-----I replaced my timing belt and water pump at 120k miles. I am not
the original owner, and I don't think that it was well cared for by
them. The original belt was in okay shape, so I don't feel too bad
about waiting.

One more question: how many miles or km can I expect to get from the
2.5L motor? Has anyone swapped in a VR6? How difficult was the job?

-----I have 126k on mine now, and there are others on the list with
much more than that. The VR6 will NOT fit under the hood. The 97 and
newer vans have a larger engine bay to accomodate the bigger engine.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my newbie questions.



...lars

-----We are here to answer your questions!!!

NED
93 Weekender

Christian,

My 1st thought on your problem having trouble shot my fans which
included reviewing the bently manual is a possibility that a single
fault may be cause of your lack of AC and fans working.

The AC electrical circuit is set up so if your AC is engaged +
ignition switch is on, then the fans should both come on at low speed.
If the 2 problems are related, trouble shooting the relays will not
find this problem. I suggest you 1st look under the dash to make
sure all electrical/vaccum lines are connected to the HVAC controls.
I'll check the bentley manual tonight for you if there is anything
else to check while you're under there.

Jerry

--- In ev_update@y..., drz400@c... wrote:

Ok, I did some checking and repairs.
The 2 resistors under the left side headlight where broken (old),
Then the auxilary water pump was ceases because of a leaking sensor
wired to it. Both were replaced.
My 50amp fuses are not blowing anynmore.

Now I'm getting to the A/C that is not working.
I tried this afternoon to turn on the contact without starting the
engine and turn on the A/C.
The front fans on the radiator are not starting so I conclude I

have

to go through the checks for the 5 relays on top of the left side
headlamp.

Can someone confirm that this will be the 1st step.
Again, my A/C is not starting, the Compressor is not engaging,
and the fans are not starting.

Thanks
Christian

--- In ev_update@y..., "Christian R." <drz400@c...> wrote:

Thank you for the precious information
I will go through the checking this weekend.
Christian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...>
To: <ev_update@y...>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:01 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 93 evmv cooling fans

Christian,

Here's a short summary of where the fans and coils and controls

are

located

on your EV, and basically what they do. Remember, these things

work by

moving HEAT around (you don't move "cold" around). You making

something

hotter by moving heat in, and you make something cooler by

moving

heat

out.

Fans (two) -- under the hood:

There are two fans under the hood. They work together at all

times and

run

at three different speeds (between each fan and the engine is a

plastic

shutter system than opens and closes by a mechanical lever

controlled by

expanding/contracting wax). The three speeds are controlled by

a

set of

relays (behind the driver's side headlight) that determine

which

circuit

supplies the fans with current. Those relays send current

through a pair

of

heavy-duty resistors (under the headlight behind an exterior

panel) to set

the various speeds. The entire circuit is protected by three

fuses -- one

inside the EV on the fuse panel (controlling current to the

relays), and

the

other two in the small plastic housing behind the headlights

(controlling

current to each fan). Practically every component mentioned

above will

need

to be repaired/replaced at some point.


Coils (two) -- under the hood:

In front of of the two fans are two coils. One is the

radiator,

which

moves

heat out a mixture of water and anti-freeze for the engine and

passenger

compartment heaters, and the other is the evaporator, which

moves

heat out

of R134a refrigerant for the air conditioning system. The coils

themselves

will quite possibly last the entire life of the vehicle. There

are a

bunch

of control/sensor/sender components along the coolant lines and

along the

refrigerant lines that will eventually fail and will then need

to

be

diagnosed and repaired. The lines and hoses connecting all

this

stuff

together are generally very reliable, but there are a few hoses

and

fittings

(just a few) that are known to fail.



Fans (two or three) -- in the cab:

There is a large interior fan under the dash that force

passenger

compartment air and/or fresh air through the coils under the

dash. There

is

also a fan on the floor forcing air through another small coil,

and a fan

in

the back (if you have rear air conditioning) forcing air

through

yet

another

coil and distributing it through the roof vents. All or these

fans are

multiple speed (determined by resistors) and are protected by

fuses on the

fuse panel. The large interior fan can suffer bearing failure,

and

resistor

packs can fail too.



Coils (three or four) -- in the cab:

Under the dash and near the large interior fan are two coils.

One is the

heater coil, containing a mixture of water and anti-freeze,

which

moves

heat

into the cab when the 4-speed fan is running and red/blue

temperature

controls are set the right way. The other coil is a condenser,

containing

R134a refrigerant, which moves heat out of the cab when the 4-

speed fan

is

running and red/blue temperature controls are set the right

way.

There is

also a small coil containing water/anti-freeze underneath the

floor near

center of the rear cab for moving heat into the rear. Finally,

if you

have

the rear air conditioning option then there is another coil (a

condenser

containing r134a) for moving heat out of the rear passenger

compartment.

Again, the hoses, lines, fittings and control gizmos connecting

all this

stuff together might fail, but the coils themselves will most

likely last

the entire life of the vehicle.

sorry, Mad, with all this disaster, i haven't been to sam's ...will go
today...

--- In ev_update@y..., "Vance, Beaumont W." <Beaumont.Vance@v...>
wrote:

I have 101k on my 95 EVC> According to an Audi mechanic I talked to

they

will run 300k easily. He said that it is easy to find used Audi 5

cylinder

engines because they outlast the auto body.

I know I'm replying to an old message but...I was told that the Audi
2.5L is a truck motor used in Europe. Is this motor easily found in
North American wrecking yards? If so, what vehicles had it?

...lars

Just looked at a Westfalia this evening. My wife and I were
originally planning on spending around CAD$8000 (USD$5000) on a
Vanagon and then doing a motor swap but came across a '92 Eurovan
Westy for CAD$19,000 (USD$11,875) tonight. It was in immaculate
condition and has 185,000km (115,000 mi) on it.

Every looked good except the motor (Audi 2.5L) made a kind of a
ticking noise. It wasn't exactly a tick sound but similar...maybe a
small exhaust header leak...or maybe it was normal, I'm not sure.
When it first started up, the motor sounded a bit noisy (remotely
similar to a diesel) but smoothed out with 1 or 2 seconds. Now, I've
heard that '93 EVs had a piston slap problem and I am wondering if
that's what I heard on this '92. Opinions?

If it is a piston slap problem, would VW provide a cheap replacement
motor if I'm the 2nd or 3rd owner? Ok, stop laughing, it was worth a
shot.

Is the piston slap problem serious or just an annoyance? Some Jeep
4.0L motors had the same problem but it wasn't supposed to adversely
affect the motor's lifespan (although I've been skeptical).

Anything else I need to watch out for? I might have another look at
it tomorrow in the daylight.

Oh, I do all the work on my wife's Subaru and my Jeep YJ. They're
both really easy to work on. The EV's engine compartment looked very
crowded. Anyone have opinions on that? Is it a real bear to work
with?

When does the timing belt need to be changed and how ugly is the
job? What about the water pump?

One more question: how many miles or km can I expect to get from the
2.5L motor? Has anyone swapped in a VR6? How difficult was the job?

Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my newbie questions.



...lars

Are both fans running? If not, see previous posts. Also check to see that
the radiator louvers are opening.

Stevie-z
93 GL w/133K

While you're waiting to hear back about this, I suspect you'll do OK using the Goodyear, it being the same size/load rating/general specs as the Agilis. If you want two similar tires on the same axle get a pair of Nokian NRWs for the rear and put the remaining rear Agilis on as the spare.

Lee Thé
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA

U Haul dealers also often sell Propane. I've used the one in Mountain View on El Camino. But Baldy's advice is good. Those minimum charges really nick us EV owners, and I've had good luck getting refills where I camp. Last one was Tuolomne Meadows in Yosemite Park. No minimum, reasonable price, competent fill/purge.

Lee Thé
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA

Are you certain the system is adequately charged? There is a low-coolant
cut-out switch on one of the coolant line that can be shorted to test
whether the compressor engages. If the compressor kicks in when the switch
is shorted then you can conclude your system might only need to be charged.

----------
From: drz400@...
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: 93 evmv cooling fans
Date: Thu, Sep 13, 2001, 8:08 PM


Ok, I did some checking and repairs.
The 2 resistors under the left side headlight where broken (old),
Then the auxilary water pump was ceases because of a leaking sensor
wired to it. Both were replaced.
My 50amp fuses are not blowing anynmore.

Now I'm getting to the A/C that is not working.
I tried this afternoon to turn on the contact without starting the
engine and turn on the A/C.
The front fans on the radiator are not starting so I conclude I have
to go through the checks for the 5 relays on top of the left side
headlamp.

Can someone confirm that this will be the 1st step.
Again, my A/C is not starting, the Compressor is not engaging,
and the fans are not starting.

Thanks
Christian

--- In ev_update@y..., "Christian R." <drz400@c...> wrote:

Thank you for the precious information
I will go through the checking this weekend.
Christian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...>
To: <ev_update@y...>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:01 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 93 evmv cooling fans

Christian,

Here's a short summary of where the fans and coils and controls

are

located

on your EV, and basically what they do. Remember, these things

work by

moving HEAT around (you don't move "cold" around). You making

something

hotter by moving heat in, and you make something cooler by moving

heat

out.

Fans (two) -- under the hood:

There are two fans under the hood. They work together at all

times and

run

at three different speeds (between each fan and the engine is a

plastic

shutter system than opens and closes by a mechanical lever

controlled by

expanding/contracting wax). The three speeds are controlled by a

set of

relays (behind the driver's side headlight) that determine which

circuit

supplies the fans with current. Those relays send current

through a pair

of

heavy-duty resistors (under the headlight behind an exterior

panel) to set

the various speeds. The entire circuit is protected by three

fuses -- one

inside the EV on the fuse panel (controlling current to the

relays), and

the

other two in the small plastic housing behind the headlights

(controlling

current to each fan). Practically every component mentioned

above will

need

to be repaired/replaced at some point.


Coils (two) -- under the hood:

In front of of the two fans are two coils. One is the radiator,

which

moves

heat out a mixture of water and anti-freeze for the engine and

passenger

compartment heaters, and the other is the evaporator, which moves

heat out

of R134a refrigerant for the air conditioning system. The coils

themselves

will quite possibly last the entire life of the vehicle. There

are a

bunch

of control/sensor/sender components along the coolant lines and

along the

refrigerant lines that will eventually fail and will then need to

be

diagnosed and repaired. The lines and hoses connecting all this

stuff

together are generally very reliable, but there are a few hoses

and

fittings

(just a few) that are known to fail.



Fans (two or three) -- in the cab:

There is a large interior fan under the dash that force passenger
compartment air and/or fresh air through the coils under the

dash. There

is

also a fan on the floor forcing air through another small coil,

and a fan

in

the back (if you have rear air conditioning) forcing air through

yet

another

coil and distributing it through the roof vents. All or these

fans are

multiple speed (determined by resistors) and are protected by

fuses on the

fuse panel. The large interior fan can suffer bearing failure,

and

resistor

packs can fail too.



Coils (three or four) -- in the cab:

Under the dash and near the large interior fan are two coils.

One is the

heater coil, containing a mixture of water and anti-freeze, which

moves

heat

into the cab when the 4-speed fan is running and red/blue

temperature

controls are set the right way. The other coil is a condenser,

containing

R134a refrigerant, which moves heat out of the cab when the 4-

speed fan

is

running and red/blue temperature controls are set the right way.

There is

also a small coil containing water/anti-freeze underneath the

floor near

center of the rear cab for moving heat into the rear. Finally,

if you

have

the rear air conditioning option then there is another coil (a

condenser

containing r134a) for moving heat out of the rear passenger

compartment.

Again, the hoses, lines, fittings and control gizmos connecting

all this

stuff together might fail, but the coils themselves will most

likely last

the entire life of the vehicle.

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
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