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Al,

My '97 EVC "check engine light" came on over Labor Day Weekend at
48,600 miles. Stopped to make sure mechanicals were ok, and drove
on. Couldn't get it into a shop (on the road, plus holiday weekend,)
so went to Auto Zone and bought an ACTRON OBD II Diagnostic Tester
(model CP9035.) Plugged it in, and discovered that the EGR valve had
a malfunction (code 400.) Called my mechanic at home, and he said
that sometimes the sensor in the EGR gets deposits on it, and that
can cause a trouble code to pop up and turn the light on. He told me
to clear the code with the tester and drive the van and see if the
light came back on. Well, it has been 800 miles and it hasn't come
back on, and I had it looked at, and the valve was functioning
properly.

Now, this wasn't as cheap as sticking a pencil in a hole (tester cost
me 150.00) but I was able to drive on worry-free and now I have
another tool in the garage.

--- In ev_update@y..., Al Ferguson <eurovan97@y...> wrote:

Long time lurker, first time poster...
I know this has probably been addressed before but...
I would like to know if any of you good folks can tell
me how to check and reset (if required) the EGR light
on a 1997 Eurovan-Camper (VR6). On my late 80's
Vanagons it was a simple black box on the speedo cable
with a little hole to stick a pencil in - push the
pencil in and the button will make a click sound and
is reset. Had to do that every 30K if I remember
correctly. Heck if I can find a similar setup on this
Eurovan!
So here is the deal, at 48.8K (and change) the
"check-engine" light comes. It is running cool... I
pull over and check oil, leaks, water, etc. - all is
o.k. so I drive it to the dealership - Hueberger in
Colorado Springs, CO - they won't even look at it for
a
week :-/ (terrible service) So I set an appointment.
In the meantime I would like to check that EGR / OXY
to see if it is a simple reset until I can get it in
the shop. YES I WILL GET IT LOOKED AT. BTW - I just
had a smog test on it - passed with ease.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Al Ferguson

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Ok, I did some checking and repairs.
The 2 resistors under the left side headlight where broken (old),
Then the auxilary water pump was ceases because of a leaking sensor
wired to it. Both were replaced.
My 50amp fuses are not blowing anynmore.

Now I'm getting to the A/C that is not working.
I tried this afternoon to turn on the contact without starting the
engine and turn on the A/C.
The front fans on the radiator are not starting so I conclude I have
to go through the checks for the 5 relays on top of the left side
headlamp.

Can someone confirm that this will be the 1st step.
Again, my A/C is not starting, the Compressor is not engaging,
and the fans are not starting.

Thanks
Christian

--- In ev_update@y..., "Christian R." <drz400@c...> wrote:

Thank you for the precious information
I will go through the checking this weekend.
Christian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...>
To: <ev_update@y...>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:01 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 93 evmv cooling fans

Christian,

Here's a short summary of where the fans and coils and controls

are

located

on your EV, and basically what they do. Remember, these things

work by

moving HEAT around (you don't move "cold" around). You making

something

hotter by moving heat in, and you make something cooler by moving

heat

out.

Fans (two) -- under the hood:

There are two fans under the hood. They work together at all

times and

run

at three different speeds (between each fan and the engine is a

plastic

shutter system than opens and closes by a mechanical lever

controlled by

expanding/contracting wax). The three speeds are controlled by a

set of

relays (behind the driver's side headlight) that determine which

circuit

supplies the fans with current. Those relays send current

through a pair

of

heavy-duty resistors (under the headlight behind an exterior

panel) to set

the various speeds. The entire circuit is protected by three

fuses -- one

inside the EV on the fuse panel (controlling current to the

relays), and

the

other two in the small plastic housing behind the headlights

(controlling

current to each fan). Practically every component mentioned

above will

need

to be repaired/replaced at some point.


Coils (two) -- under the hood:

In front of of the two fans are two coils. One is the radiator,

which

moves

heat out a mixture of water and anti-freeze for the engine and

passenger

compartment heaters, and the other is the evaporator, which moves

heat out

of R134a refrigerant for the air conditioning system. The coils

themselves

will quite possibly last the entire life of the vehicle. There

are a

bunch

of control/sensor/sender components along the coolant lines and

along the

refrigerant lines that will eventually fail and will then need to

be

diagnosed and repaired. The lines and hoses connecting all this

stuff

together are generally very reliable, but there are a few hoses

and

fittings

(just a few) that are known to fail.



Fans (two or three) -- in the cab:

There is a large interior fan under the dash that force passenger
compartment air and/or fresh air through the coils under the

dash. There

is

also a fan on the floor forcing air through another small coil,

and a fan

in

the back (if you have rear air conditioning) forcing air through

yet

another

coil and distributing it through the roof vents. All or these

fans are

multiple speed (determined by resistors) and are protected by

fuses on the

fuse panel. The large interior fan can suffer bearing failure,

and

resistor

packs can fail too.



Coils (three or four) -- in the cab:

Under the dash and near the large interior fan are two coils.

One is the

heater coil, containing a mixture of water and anti-freeze, which

moves

heat

into the cab when the 4-speed fan is running and red/blue

temperature

controls are set the right way. The other coil is a condenser,

containing

R134a refrigerant, which moves heat out of the cab when the 4-

speed fan

is

running and red/blue temperature controls are set the right way.

There is

also a small coil containing water/anti-freeze underneath the

floor near

center of the rear cab for moving heat into the rear. Finally,

if you

have

the rear air conditioning option then there is another coil (a

condenser

containing r134a) for moving heat out of the rear passenger

compartment.

Again, the hoses, lines, fittings and control gizmos connecting

all this

stuff together might fail, but the coils themselves will most

likely last

the entire life of the vehicle.

The dealer near my home in Kansas City, Baron VW, ordered four new
7"x15" "Rondo" style, five-spoke Alloys for a EV customer. The
customer failed to pay and now they are stuck with the alloys but are
willing to sell to anyone at their cost which they say is $167.50 each
+ postage.

The part number is 7D0 071 490 666. List price is $225 each. Contact
Baron's parts manager, Brian 913 722 9500 (Nice guy). The wheels can
be seen on the VWOA website under wheel options for the EV. I am told
they fit all EV's, even the early ones. I think these wheels may
standard equipment on all 2001 EV's.

They treat me fairly with my VW parts and service requirements so I
trust they will treat you right, too.

Bruce Braun

JC,

Need more info, so the temp gauge just started showing this? Is it
happening in city driving? Towing? in hot weather only? Is your
coolant level low? what happens when you run the heater when its at
230? Do you know if the fans work? ...

Jerry



--- In ev_update@y..., ieworld@y... wrote:

Hi All:

I just notice lately that the temp GAUGE has start touching 230
degrees. I like to solicit opinions to as what might be wrong in

this

kind of scenario.

My car is a 93 EV GL. Any inputs is highly appreciated.


Thank you!

JC

Reg,

Try the search function on trailers. THere are a few folks out there
who have trailers. Oh, also check the files section, there are some
pics.

Jerry

--- In ev_update@y..., tya <tya@c...> wrote:

Dear List,

I am looking for suggestions for a lightweight flatbed

trailer to

tow behind a Eurovan. Contents will be a 250 lb ultra light
airplane. Fuselage about 16 feet long, wheel width about 60

inches and

two wings each about 13 feet long to be carried. I am hoping to

buy such

a trailer in Kansas and tow it back to Canada with the aircraft I

was going

to buy in Emporia KS.

Reg

Thanks everyone for the encouragement, but this whole business of traveling
during this situation is stressful enough for Kathy, and I just decided to
order the parts from europarts-sd and leave her out of it. I think I can
"go electric" for a week or so while waiting for UPS to deliver. I'm more
worried that Kathy's flight will be delayed/rescheduled and the kids and I
will have to subsist for ANOTHER week on Top Ramen and Cheerios.

Mike <-- can fix ANYTHING except a decent meal

----------
From: wiliam meyer <wmeyer@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Battery power
Date: Thu, Sep 13, 2001, 5:36 PM


i agree, your wife should be able to bring them on the airline.
keep them in original packaging and inform the security check. they can
than open them and/or just x-ray them.


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<> .

i agree, your wife should be able to bring them on the airline.
keep them in original packaging and inform the security check. they can
than open them and/or just x-ray them.

At 07:31 PM 9/13/2001 +0000, mojowrkn@... used the 'hunt and peck' method of typing to come up with the following:

Can anyone recommend a place to get my LP refilled-preferably in SF
or on the Penninsula.

Thanks-John
Agnes 99 EVC

Almost any RV dealer sells propane. Even most RV campgrounds such as KOA and others. I've seen lots of gas stations that also sell it but beware of their higher costs and minimum charge. Your best bet is probably any Flying J travel plaza whose prices are amongst the cheapest and while they sometimes quote a minimum charge, I've seldom seen them enforce it.

Baldy

--- In ev_update@y..., "Christian R." <drz400@c...> wrote:

I just fixed my temp gauge yesterday night.
It was not working at all before, today it is indicating "HOT" I

mean by hot

the gauge goes to the last mark before the end on the top.
What could be wrong ?

Christian,

There have been a lot of posts on this topic in the past, and it
would probably be worth your time to search them.

My personal experience (having the done the "fix" more than once) is
that, if the VR problem is occurring, both the temp gauge and fuel
gauge malfunction together. So, if your fuel gauge also is reading
incorrectly, you may want to re-do the VR fix.

If only the temp gauge is in question, is your engine in fact
overheating? Are the fans running full blast? If it appears that
your temp gauge is reading incorrectly, the problem may be the sender
plug (about $35) located on a flange at the front of the engine.
Previous posts describe this item and its location (I recall that
there are two sender plugs on the flange).

Can a voltage regulator be ruined by solder gun heat? I have
wondered that myself when doing the fix. Steve at Europarts San
Diego sells the VR, so they must go bad from time to time, but I will
leave it for greater minds to say.

Joe

Have your wife put the rollers in her luggage, check the luggage, and she
will be fine. I also suspect that if she leves them in the origonal
packaging, and shows them to the security agents, she will also be fine.
They will spend more time looking into her purse, briefcase, etc.

Well, the wrinkle with that idea is that the plane is flying to Columbus,
with a connection in Cincinnati where she plans to leave the plane. I'd
have to drive to Columbus to retrieve the luggage!

----------
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Battery power
Date: Thu, Sep 13, 2001, 3:55 PM


Your wife can always check in the bag and it will go under.
I do not think that could be a problem even with the current events.

Christian

Hi,

I own a 1995 Eurovan Camper and have had trouble with the air distribution
system fan control switch. When I bought it in 1999, the fan speed control
only worked in position #4. The other positions didn't seem to turn on the
fan at all. The VW dealer "debugged" the problem and replaced the switch.
The new one worked well until I moved the control lever to the defrost
position. I then noticed that the first three positions were again not
working. Moving the control lever away from the defrost position had no
affect. Only position #4 works now. It has been mentioned that the problem
might be the resistor pack but since the control worked for a while when
replaced, I wonder if it is something else.

Any similar experiences out there? Any solutions? I dread having the dealer
"debug" it again at $70/hr!

Thanks,

Jon

Your wife can always check in the bag and it will go under.
I do not think that could be a problem even with the current events.

Christian

I could not find serpentine belt idler rollers in stock at any of the five
VW dealers in the greater Cincinnati area.

My wife is in San Jose, hopefully flying home this weekend, and Bob Lewis VW
has the rollers, but I'm reluctant to ask Kathy to try to carry them on
board. They are about the size of a hockey puck, and I can just imagine her
trying to explain why she's carrying them on board to airport security
personnel.

Steve at europarts-sd.com has them in stock (says he sells a lot of them)
and could ship them UPS, which will take at least a week under the best of
circumstances.

So.......I've been idling the van in the driveway for the last HOUR, and the
fans are kicking on and off, and the fuel pump is pumping, and the ignition
is firing. I turned it off and cranked it again......the starter was
STRONG. Looks like an EV can easily run a full hour on battery power alone,
and still have enough battery left to crank the starter, and that's plenty
for me, so I'm calling Steve and will wait a week or so.

Meanwhile, I guess I find out what it's like to own an "electric car" with a
limited range that has to be recharged every night!

Can anyone recommend a place to get my LP refilled-preferably in SF
or on the Penninsula.

Thanks-John
Agnes 99 EVC

Hi,
I just fixed my temp gauge yesterday night.
It was not working at all before, today it is indicating "HOT" I mean by hot
the gauge goes to the last mark before the end on the top.
What could be wrong ?
Is it possible to mess up the voltage regulator, although I don't think that
I was too close while soldering it.

Thanks
Christian

My experience with "the bad gauge" was that when it malfunctioned,
it indicated Cold. If the gauge indicates Hot, heed it.

My experience was just the opposite. The first clue I had that my
first attempt at the voltage regulator fix didn't work was that the
temp gauge began to read hot. Once I did the fix again, the temp
gauge stayed right in the middle.

Voltage Regulator fix:



BTW, instead of reusing the screw, I put a micro bolt through the
hole in the VR, through the hole in the cluster case (which had
cracks around it), and secured it from the back with a nut and
LockTite. The intent was to prevent the VR and the metal heat sink
from vibrating and ruining the contacts. So far so good.

Joe

In a message dated 09/07/2001 2:58:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
daldrich@... writes:

From the looks of the Winnebago diagram, it appears that the structural
member is just the starboard posts and the others are just bolted thru the
sheet metal so they don't twist during an collision. It could also be that
the port side was omitted for clarity of the drawings.

Dan -

The starboard side attachments are in a VW frame member, and include
small stiffener plates under each bolt.. The port side attachments for the
companion seat are strengthened by the addition of a large U-channel beam
running longitudinal to the body. In the event of a collision this prevents
the mounting bolt attachments from being ripped up through the floor.
I just took a quick look at the underside. I didn't get underneath
because my heavy duty maintenance ramps need some 2" thick planks to extend
and reduce the angle of the leading edge so that they will clear the bib
under the front bumper. But I digress....
The U-beam is about 1.25" x 2" cross section and about 40" long, and is
made of heavy gauge steel. The open end of the U faces up, and there are
three sets of flanges welded to the beam to screw into strategic parts of the
VW floor stiffeners. The forward end of the beam is next to the rear heater,
running almost up to what appears to be a speedometer or tachometer cable.
You are right, there is no reference to this beam in the Winnebago Floor Plan
or Chassis-Modified diagrams. It's not all that clean down there with all
that grease coating, so I didn't get too close. Contrary to Mike's
assessment of my dining room accommodations, it's been several weeks since I
have had lunch down there (and have yet to try eating dinner).
Have you looked at your own EVC attachments for the port attachments for
the *double* bench seat? I didn't take any measurements, but it appeared
that the double would need similar strengthening, because I did not see any
structural members in that general area, and the Winnebago diagrams don't
show any as well.
Did you procure a modification kit from Winnebago? If so, what parts did
they supply besides the two 5/8-11 nuts? I think you either need the parts
from Winnebago, or get the detailed documentation for them. I recall a
posting a year or so ago that talked about getting these parts for something
like $150. It may be worthwhile to make the U-beam at a shop, but I would
think the per-unit cost of having a shop make up the special nuts would be
very high. The flange to make the nuts flush with the EVC living area floor
is very specific to the application.
Let me remind you again to be aware that the vinyl floor has a very low
melting point. A conventional incandescent trouble light will melt the vinyl
in a very short time if the light shield is in contact with the floor. I
recognized this soon enough to avoid significant damage to my floor.
Now if you had left that Nikon CoolPix 950 here with me on Labor Day
Weekend, I could quickly provide you with all the underside shots you need!
Other than that, Jim Mandle is the closest 2001 EVC to you that has the
companion seat configuration.

Bill Armstrong. Digital Camera Speculator
2001 EVC, "Dream Weaver", VIN WV2EB47001H080093, 1726 miles
Endwell, NY
<A href=">
</A>

--- In ev_update@y..., ieworld@y... wrote:

Hi All:

I just notice lately that the temp GAUGE has start touching 230
degrees. I like to solicit opinions to as what might be wrong in

this

kind of scenario.

My car is a 93 EV GL. Any inputs is highly appreciated.


Thank you!

JC

1). Coolant level low - check the overflow tank
2). Air in the system - well documented recently
3). Inoperable/malfunctioning fans - resistor pack discussion well
documented recently and in archives.
4). Bad gauge - smack the dashboard a couple times above the speedo.
Something's up - this engine never ever gets hot if all of the above
are working. Just a high reading isn't a big deal, if the fans are
roaring outside. Check them with and without the a/c on. is the red
light blinking on the dash?

Scott

Hi All:

I just notice lately that the temp GAUGE has start touching 230
degrees. I like to solicit opinions to as what might be wrong in this
kind of scenario.

My car is a 93 EV GL. Any inputs is highly appreciated.


Thank you!

JC