Re: Weird problem with all automatic door latches
On Tue, Nov 22, 2022 at 02:56 PM, Droppin bombs wrote:
Ingenious! Have you found a place to buy such a spring? And how to remove the lock handle when it continues to go up and down?
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Re: Weird problem with all automatic door latches
Did you ever solve this? My 2002 Eurovan MV locks are all going crazy, and they NEVER stop—i.e., do not lock in the down position, they just keep going!
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On Wed, Sep 18, 2024 at 08:55 PM, Domokos Hadnagy wrote:
I think the whole thing has to come as a single piece.
That's what I thought until I got some of the hose.? You can use the old end pieces and check valve.? Don't even need any clamps.? Just make sure you don't put a kink in the hose.? Cost is about $6 or less for 2' at auto store instead of $87 (when they were available).? I buy a big roll, then cut it into ~18 inch pieces, more than enough for any model year, to sell to others (at cost, currently $2).? Cheaper at the store since I'd have to add postage unless we were meeting up (or you were getting some of the other stuff I keep around).
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Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles
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should I add wire to door harness repair
I'm about to repair a driver's door harness with broken wires. May end
up doing all 22 wires. Some you can see the cracked and exposed wire
others-esp the smaller ones- nothing shows. Would adding about 6" of
wire help with the door pinch? Are the smaller (22gauge) wires less prone to being broken? Some posters have just cut the wire &
soldered at break without adding extra wire.Anyone who has done this repair have any tips on this. Thanks all. Spencer 2002 mvwk
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On Wed, Sep 18, 2024 at 08:55 PM, Domokos Hadnagy wrote:
I think the whole thing has to come as a single piece.
That's what I thought until I got some of the hose.? You can use the old end pieces and check valve.? Don't even need any clamps.? Just make sure you don't put a kink in the hose.? Cost is about $6 or less for 2' at auto store instead of $87 (when they were available).? I buy a big roll, then cut it into ~18 inch pieces, more than enough for any model year, to sell to others (at cost, currently $2).? Cheaper at the store since I'd have to add postage unless we were meeting up (or you were getting some of the other stuff I keep around).
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Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles
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? It’s a molded hose with a check valve in it. I think the whole thing has to come as a single piece.. Attached is a more complete picture.
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On Wed, Sep 18, 2024 at 06:43 PM, Domokos Hadnagy wrote:
The enclosed picture is the hose I am looking for
If it's the main line for the brake booster, you should be able to use Gates 27231 vacuum hose.
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Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles
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On Wed, Sep 18, 2024 at 06:43 PM, Domokos Hadnagy wrote:
The enclosed picture is the hose I am looking for
If it's the main line for the brake booster, you should be able to use Gates 27231 vacuum hose.
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Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles
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The enclosed picture is the hose I am looking for . Can anyone help me.Number is by screwdriver. It is a five cylinder 1995 engine.
Thanks
Domokos
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Re: What to do with the Secondary Air Injection system (ACU engine)
The SAI failed about 25 years ago, disconnected, passes Oregon sniffer rules. YMIV I suppose but looks optional…one less drag on the serpentine belt!
1995 Eurovan Camper Syncro
450000 miles and still For Sale
Cheers, jc
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Re: What to do with the Secondary Air Injection system (ACU engine)
Hi Radek, As far as I know, the secondary air injection system only operates for the first 60 or 90 seconds of a cold start. It pumps air into the exhaust flow to help the catalytic converter convert all the unburned fuel. As long as the system isn’t the source of exhaust or intake leaks, the van should run fine without it. See this samba thread for more info:?
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On Sep 15, 2024, at 8:44?PM, Radek <radek.radarski@...> wrote:
? Hello,
?
I'm troubleshooting a 1995 Rialta with ACU engine for a friend who just bought it.? There were monkeys in the engine bay: loose wires, disconnected vacuum hoses, SAI check valve cut out, radiator blower fans bypassed with a switch - a real mess.
In comparison to my old AAB, this engine has some extra complications, like the SAI system.? My question is this:? should I try to reconnect and repair the SAI, or should I rather do away with it.? Has anyone successfully removed that system? Will the engine run correctly without it?
Thanks for any suggestions,
?
Radek
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What to do with the Secondary Air Injection system (ACU engine)
Hello,
?
I'm troubleshooting a 1995 Rialta with ACU engine for a friend who just bought it.? There were monkeys in the engine bay: loose wires, disconnected vacuum hoses, SAI check valve cut out, radiator blower fans bypassed with a switch - a real mess.
In comparison to my old AAB, this engine has some extra complications, like the SAI system.? My question is this:? should I try to reconnect and repair the SAI, or should I rather do away with it.? Has anyone successfully removed that system? Will the engine run correctly without it?
Thanks for any suggestions,
?
Radek
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Re: ECU for 1993 Eurovan (manual trans)
Very nice to know.? Maybe I'll hold on to it them.
But still, if anybody is in the market... lmk.
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Intake Air Pre-Heater Hose (I think) has a hole/rip in it
Can anybody confirm that this is the Intake Air Pre-Heater Hose?
It is behind the engine and close the the exhaust manufold.
I was inspecting, and I noticed that it appears to have a hole/rip in it.
I'm not sure if this would have a real impact on performance, but guessing any holes in hoses are bad.
But what would be the impact of this?? I live in San Diego... so not sure that the pre-heating matters... but dirty air would be bad. I can't really tell about how to connect a new one.? Looks like it just slides on the engine side.? The air filter side is hidden, and I can't tell how it would attach. Any tips?   
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On Mon, Sep 9, 2024 at 10:00?AM Droppin bombs via <duckdive= [email protected]> wrote: If you do, please document it for everyone. My heater core is shot, and I'm considering dropping my dash.
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I have seen a video where a guy repaired his blender door without dropping it.? Not helpful for me, but if that is your issue, you could try that... tho with the fire, you may want to take a look around.
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If you do, please document it for everyone. My heater core is shot, and I'm considering dropping my dash.
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I have seen a video where a guy repaired his blender door without dropping it.? Not helpful for me, but if that is your issue, you could try that... tho with the fire, you may want to take a look around.
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I believe the vacuum goes through the firewall at the same location as the heater hoses. On mine there is a barb connector that the vacuum hoses connect on either side of the firewall.
Good luck?
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Re: Replaced distributor - now hesitates when starting then stalls
I was able to find TDC using the "rod in #1 plug hole" method.
Then I re-adjusted the distributor to have the "pointer" at #1 spot on cap.
Tried starting several times with no luck.
Then adjusted distributor a few degrees each attempt until it started/ran reliably.
If starting seemed worse, I changed direction.
Prob gonna have a shop fine tune it.
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I think you’re right I was hoping not to have to drop the dash.
On Sun, Sep 8, 2024 at 6:02?PM Domokos Hadnagy via <domokos.hadnagy= [email protected]> wrote: I can move the blender door by hand by actuating the solenoid. The switch doesn’t actuate the solenoid so I’m fairly certain that there is no vacuum coming to it. It is such a rats nest under there that I can’t see where it goes through the firewall. I think my best bet is to try to figure out if there is a vacuum there at all and any suggestions?? I had a 20 second fire in the engine compartment that melted some of the vacuum lines. I think I’ve replaced them all.
On Sun, Sep 8, 2024 at 5:34?PM George Parrino via <geoverde= [email protected]> wrote: Arev you sure the blender door haven't lost all their foam covering? I believe one can see where the vacuum diaphragm is on the blender box, can it be traced from there? May have to drop the dash to see.
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I can move the blender door by hand by actuating the solenoid. The switch doesn’t actuate the solenoid so I’m fairly certain that there is no vacuum coming to it. It is such a rats nest under there that I can’t see where it goes through the firewall. I think my best bet is to try to figure out if there is a vacuum there at all and any suggestions?? I had a 20 second fire in the engine compartment that melted some of the vacuum lines. I think I’ve replaced them all.
On Sun, Sep 8, 2024 at 5:34?PM George Parrino via <geoverde= [email protected]> wrote: Arev you sure the blender door haven't lost all their foam covering? I believe one can see where the vacuum diaphragm is on the blender box, can it be traced from there? May have to drop the dash to see.
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Arev you sure the blender door haven't lost all their foam covering? I believe one can see where the vacuum diaphragm is on the blender box, can it be traced from there? May have to drop the dash to see.
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Spencer Allen
Duane
Quinn Haughey