Working on the air conditioner on my 1995 Eurovan. I discovered that I wasn’t getting adequate flow from my air conditioner. The air was very low.. taking off the panels below the dashboard I discovered that the blender door for heat is mechanically controlled, but the blender door for the air conditioner is vacuum controlled.
I am trying to determine two things ……Where does the vacuum line come through the firewall from the engine to the dashboard? I can’t find it.
And secondly, how does one test if the vacuum system is sealed and working?
Any help would be appreciated
thank you
Domokos
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Re: Replaced distributor - now hesitates when starting then stalls
Also worth checking…did you get OEM type or China version? I ask because I learned this lesson the hard way years ago.
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On Sep 7, 2024, at 2:07?AM, Kyle via groups.io <kboberlee@...> wrote:
Timing is probably off. If you have the firing order correct. It’s timing. Not to hard to set it on these but you will need a timing light.? I replaced my 1993 distributor.? I took care to mark the bolt locations.? I put the wires back to the same spots.
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When I start, it hesitates and then it stalls.
Starting my research now.
Figure I'd post while I'm searching.
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Re: Replaced distributor - now hesitates when starting then stalls
Timing is probably off. If you have the firing order correct. It’s timing. Not to hard to set it on these but you will need a timing light.?
I replaced my 1993 distributor.? I took care to mark the bolt locations.? I put the wires back to the same spots.
?
When I start, it hesitates and then it stalls.
Starting my research now.
Figure I'd post while I'm searching.
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Replaced distributor - now hesitates when starting then stalls
I replaced my 1993 distributor.? I took care to mark the bolt locations.? I put the wires back to the same spots.
?
When I start, it hesitates and then it stalls.
Starting my research now.
Figure I'd post while I'm searching.
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I had a small, very short fire in my van, due to a gas leak, and a spark from a bad wire. With the help of people on this site, I’ve been able to make the repairs. however, I still have one problem. It appears one of the vacuum lines melted and I can’t find where it’s supposed to go. If anyone has this version of eurovan, r. R five cylinder, please take a look at the pictures. Perhaps you can tell me where the vacuum line is supposed to go thanks again in advance..Domokos
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Re: ECU for 1993 Eurovan (manual trans)
Yes, I've done a bunch of ECU research while fixing my own.
Do you have your old ECU?
The 1993 units have a letter designation that follows the ECU P/N
The relevant information that is specific to that letter designation is stored on the EEPROM chip inside the ECU.
I've confirmed this: You only need to swap the EEPROM to change what vehicle the ECU supports.
For example, if you own a "H" unit, you can buy a "G" unit, and swap the EEPROM to make it an "H" unit.
I was able to buy an ECU from a 1993 Eurovan (manual trans) recently.
I didn't know the EV was manual, and as I understand / compared, the ECU is different from my auto trans 1993 EV ECU.
Anybody with a manual in San Diego area that needs one?? I want to get my money and time back.
Also, I have VCDS, and I'm wondering if I were to hook it up to mine... just to get a scan to validate it responds properly... I was thinking I should disconnect my TCM first though.
Or does anybody have any thoughts on how to validate the ECU?
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ECU for 1993 Eurovan (manual trans)
I was able to buy an ECU from a 1993 Eurovan (manual trans) recently.
I didn't know the EV was manual, and as I understand / compared, the ECU is different from my auto trans 1993 EV ECU.
Anybody with a manual in San Diego area that needs one?? I want to get my money and time back.
Also, I have VCDS, and I'm wondering if I were to hook it up to mine... just to get a scan to validate it responds properly... I was thinking I should disconnect my TCM first though.
Or does anybody have any thoughts on how to validate the ECU?
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Re: 2002 transmision with the. GoWesty cooler 224f deg
When you say stuck, what do you mean?? High trans temp so you don't want to drive?? Limp mode? Something else?
Have you had a shop diagnose?? Have you scanned?
I've been stuck in Reno before (on the way to )'( )? - partial story and later follow up here - http://www.eurovanrescue.com/2019/06/23/have-you-ever-seen-a-tcm-that-is-damaged/
By the "stuck in Reno" comment and timing, are you passing through? Which way did you arrive in Reno? 80, 395 or other?
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2002 transmision with the. GoWesty cooler 224f deg
I am stuck in Reno for the night I have 177000 miles and the scan gage usuals at 179 went to 224 and would no come down There is a small leak somewhere but can’t tell if this cause of overheating
I will check the auto trans fluid tomorrow and run a scan check using my laptop and the VCDS light program
Any ? suggestions
Bernard
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Re: Eurovan Gasoline Fumes when Hot & High - Recap
Replacement of the N80 purge valve on 1997 EVC 8/24/24
Tested the old N80 valve. Applied 12 volts DC, it clicked. I could, by blowing on the input side, get some air to pass, but very little and I had to blow very hard.
I replaced the original Bosch 0-280-142-308 valve with an aftermarket URO P/N UR-077133517C. Tested the new N80 valve and could easily blow air through it with 12 volts applied.
The N80 is attached to the same support used to support the radiator reservoir, with the use of an additional bracket, a bolt, and a clever rubber fitting that holds and surrounds the valve.
Replaced the hose from the Intake manifold to the N80 with some Fuel line/PCV/EEC hose 5/16”, part# NBH H176, from NAPA and added hose clamps.
Reused the short piece of hose from the input side of the N80 valve. This hose is 3”- 4” long and formed into an “L” shape. It looks to have a part number on it of “VW DE COO 701 201 801 C32 96” This hose runs horizontally towards the driver’s side and then drops down once past the radiator reservoir support. VW even put a slight notch in the support and added a piece of rubber to prevent it from cutting into the hose as it turns downward after passing the radiator reservoir support.
Attached a NAPA fuel filter part # FIL 3002, using some of the new hose from NAPA and some more hose clamps. The filter “nests” vertically behind the radiator reservoir, and pressed up against the vacuum boost for the breaks. It sits about an inch forward of where the original hose came up to meet the N80 valve, so the rubber on the notch was removed and saved for posterity.
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If anyone sees something that looks problematic drop me a line. In the meantime, I will monitor the filter and see if the new, functional N80 valve helps with the fuel vapor issue.
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Re: Eurovan Gasoline Fumes when Hot & High - Recap
On Fri, Aug 23, 2024 at 03:27 PM, JallyCamper wrote:
it looks huge, 2" diameter and 4" long. Up stream of the N80 valve is understood, but where precisely?
It basically replaces the hose from the driver end of the N80 to the upright solid line.? The only 'old' hose you need is enough to make the connections.
--
Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles
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Re: Eurovan Gasoline Fumes when Hot & High - Recap
Curious where and how you placed the NAPA Gold 3002 filter. Picked one up yesterday, it looks huge, 2" diameter and 4" long. Up stream of the N80 valve is understood, but where precisely?
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Wow, thanks for sending that.? I believe I have the second one.? I like how he says “this was the most difficult part of the job” !? It has been for me. ? Bryan ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Alex L
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2024 2:22 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] Wire for alternator? Hi Bryan,? Just had to do this a couple weeks ago. There’s two different alternator styles - one with a “D” style connector and one with a square connector.? The square connector has a metal clip securing the wire in place. Squeeze both sides to release. Demonstrated here:? The “D” connector has a plastic tab on the top that needs to be pulled up to release. a right angle pick tool or small screwdriver is useful. demonstrated here:? ?
On Aug 22, 2024, at 04:33, B Feddish via groups.io <bfeddish@...> wrote: ? Trying to get the wire unplugged from the alternator but I can barely reach my hand up there. What’s the secret to getting that off in the cramped space? If anyone has a picture of it so I can even see what type of connector it is I would appreciate it.
?
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Hi Bryan,? Just had to do this a couple weeks ago. There’s two different alternator styles - one with a “D” style connector and one with a square connector.?
The square connector has a metal clip securing the wire in place. Squeeze both sides to release. Demonstrated here:?https://youtu.be/-3VWxZfXdjE?t=100
The “D” connector has a plastic tab on the top that needs to be pulled up to release. a right angle pick tool or small screwdriver is useful. demonstrated here:?https://youtu.be/lwnNbEreqFU?t=544
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On Aug 22, 2024, at 04:33, B Feddish via groups.io <bfeddish@...> wrote:
? ? Trying to get the wire unplugged from the alternator but I can barely reach my hand up there. What’s the secret to getting that off in the cramped space? If anyone has a picture of it so I can even see what type of connector it is I would appreciate it. ? Thanks, Bryan
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? ? Trying to get the wire unplugged from the alternator but I can barely reach my hand up there. What’s the secret to getting that off in the cramped space? If anyone has a picture of it so I can even see what type of connector it is I would appreciate it. ? Thanks, Bryan
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Re: '99 replacing and recoding garage cluster
I used a repair service and they sent my cluster back saying the circuit board was "too far gone" for repairing. Suggested I replace with another cluster.?
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Re: '99 replacing and recoding garage cluster
Learnings after calling Volkswagen and speaking to a cluster repair service.?
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You need to speak to VW to find the specific part numbers for clusters that will work with your VIN.
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Once you've located a replacement cluster, I bought one on eBay, you'll need to inspect the circuit board for corroded or weak soldering. After cleaning and resoldering any poor connections you'll then use software to reprogram the EEPROM chip with the the odometer and vehicle information. I suggest doing some YouTube searches to learn more about programming EEPROMs. This is the process that the instrument cluster repair services use to program a new to you vehicle cluster with your vehicles information.?
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Then install your new to you cluster. This is pretty simple if you are comfortable with some basic automotive work. Good video here on that process. https://youtu.be/RXM7ZreBuuY?si=4gx4ks80IO2qJEFt
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Re: 2002 Weekender Heater Core Issue- Maybe
Problem went away after installing this:???almost a year ago.? I only wish I would've installed it earlier.
On Saturday, August 17, 2024 at 08:27:24 PM PDT, Jim <marski@...> wrote:
Read thru most heater core posts, but have odd situation-
2002 Weekender- when I turn on the heat control, I get a definite antifreeze smell and the inside of the windshield fogs up
I don't see any leakage trails inside the vehicle or under the hood. Also don't see any reduction in the antifreeze level.
Any thoughts on this? Misting when heat is on? Heater core or control assembly?
Any thoughts appreciated.
Also any reccommendations on Eurovan repair folks in Denver-Boulder, CO area?
?
Thanks,
Jim Marski
Pine, CO
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File /Eurovan cab door latch rod repair.pdf uploaded
#file-notice
The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: Pete <pdebarber@...>
Description:
Door latch rod and rod end clip repair
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Re: 2002 Weekender Heater Core Issue- Maybe
Bill,
I’m honestly not sure. I haven’t tried to calculate the engine work only part separately from all the other things we did. But I’d guess it’s in the ballpark of your $10k.
David Springe
Sent from my iPhone, please excuse my typos.
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Sean Robinson
Duane
Kyle Henderson