开云体育

?seems to have pop top canvas for Winnebago Eurovan Campers.

I have had a few parts from reputable suppliers come DOA. FCP Euro has a lifetime warranty on ALL their parts, so that is now my go-to parts supplier.

--
David
1705.net
95 EVG(lamper)
Seattle, WA

Thanks David.? ?I was aware of the guy on the Samba,......but wasn't sure how to search for him,....so, thanks for the link.? ?I'm going to try another coolant temp sensor first.? ?It was replaced only? a few hundred miles ago,....but,....story is that some electronic components arrive DOA.? So, thought it was worth the $10 investment.? I have read through the 1946 UK thead on the Wibbly Wobbly gauges,...and did pull my instrument cluster out,...and disassembled it,....my circuit board is different from the one shown,....so didn't know how to proceed,.....I even bought a new soldering iron to do the job,.....I have since found another thread on VW Vortex,....suggesting repairing a different style of circuit board,....so,....looks like I will be pulling it out again for another look see.

This might be old news, but I spoke with eurocampers today about getting a stock poptop canvas (the stock ones are made with Sunforger canvas - a pretty cool tent material). I have a repaired one, and wanted one to eventually replace it. They indicated to me it was discontinued. I also called winnebagoparts.com and they repeated the same information.

Darn.
--
David
1705.net
95 EVG(lamper)
Seattle, WA

I think VW really missed a big opportunity by not making the new ID-Buzz a Hybrid with an all wheel drive camper variant.? Toyota Hybrids have been used for off-grid camping for years, as they run the climate control system off the Hybrid battery, with the gas engine kicking in only occasionally to recharge the hybrid battery.? Imagine camping in the desert or on a mountain top at a ski resort, and have your mobile home maintain perfect interior temps off the Hybrid battery.? Again,.....something all Toyota Hybrids (and possibly other brands) have done since they were first introduced.? ?This is why even Prius are frequently used for light overlanding with lift kits, all terrain tires, even winches.? It's referred to as "Hotel Prius".

Just search for “flashing coolant light” in the message area on the eurovanupdate groups.io website - that should result in finding this message: /g/eurovanupdate/message/163764 - that links to this page:

There is a guy on The Samba who will repair the instrument cluster, as well:


--
David
1705.net
95 EVG(lamper)
Seattle, WA

?My 1995 EVC has? a flashing coolant light on cold start up.? Coolant level is right at the upper "Max" line in the coolant reservoir and once the engine warms up,......it is well within the normal range.? ?I have read that this problem has been discussed here.? Wondering if there is a way to search for that prior discussion, or if someone can walk me through the fix,....I read that it can require re-soldering the instrument cluster circuit board.?

Some additional information.
?
Prior to purchasing our EVC (December, 2023, The cold month in Arizona) it had a check engine light on with an error code of P0411 (Sec.Air Inj.Sys. Incorrect Flow Detected (/g/eurovanupdate/topic/check_engine_light_error_code/45650733)). The previous owner had the mechanic clear the code and started using regular gas which the mechanic thought might help prevent the return of the P0411 code. I do not think the P0411 is part of the gas fume problem we are talking about here.
?
To date neither the check engine light nor presumably the code has returned. Our EVC passed Phoenix emission testing, shortly after we bought it. Neither our mechanic
nor the MVD has said we have any codes present. We have run only regular gas.

Two more data points:? ?I switched two years ago to regular gas (wish I'd done so years ago) and van runs great with it.? Regular 87.? But symptoms returned (albeit shifted) during new regular gas usage.? ?And ours is a 2002.

We just got back to our van in preparation for hitting the road this summer.? I'm doing other work on the van (front brake hose was rubbing - worth checking!) and while I have yet to start it up for 8 months, I was getting gas fumes in the heat of the day.? ? This was also happening last summer at the same point in time along with rare occasional fill problems later during travels in the West.

This is the second round as first happened years ago - see previous post.? At that time I don't think I had fumes, just the code and fill trouble.

I don't know if we all have the exact same problem causes or just the same symptoms but I'm having a hard time understanding a mechanism where the slight difference in gasoline formulations could affect static parked fumes escaping.? My best guess is that my cannister charcoal is saturated again, but so hard to believe the cannister held liquid for 8 months in high desert.?

I had already ordered a new Stanton gas cap for it and swapped that out yesterday with no relief.? The vapor is light though.? Have to be nearby the cannister/fill area on the driver side. We actually camp with the van while parked inside a metal garage on our property and it's not noticeable otherwise.?

Location - 5900 ft, Silver City, NM? 90 F
Condition- not started for 8 months, then started later light fumes continued.

Anyone?? Bueller?

It took me days to read most of the previous posts on this going back years, but I have now done so. I have to say it is a little overwhelming. Here is our experience.
?
We recently purchased a 1997 Eurovan Full Camper (91K miles). On its first summer trip, day 1, driving from Phoenix (~1000’ & 104°f) starting with a full tank of regular Costco gas (87 octane) and driving to Payson (~5000’ & 93°f) 90 miles, non-stop 1:30 hours. When stopping for gas and opening the tank, you guessed it, lots of gas vapor. After off-gassing for minutes, the filling it up proved difficult as well, pump clicking off as others have noted.
?
Tempted to just run with the gas cap off, but opted instead to just open it up whenever we stopped, or smelled gas. This worked pretty well. I also was careful to orient the gas cap so the two notches were at the 4 and 8 o’clock, (picture included of cap and fill hole). This did not solve the problem, but did mitigate the most obvious symptom, the gas vapor, to a degree.
?
I also noticed when we returned home after a couple weeks of mountain driving the rubber pipe that runs from the N80 to the manifold had a wet look where it goes into the manifold, as well as looking to have melted some of the foam on the backside of the plastic cover (see picture).
?
Next step for us, I think, is to test and replace N80 and also install “…a filter (NAPA Gold 3002) on the line in front of the N80” as someone else did.
?
Don’t think this will fix it, as other have noted, this is perhaps a multifactorial problem. But it’s a start, and something reasonably simple to do. Other suggestions or questions are welcome.

Thanks again George. I definitely would like the extra lifting power as I've got a fairly large Thule rooftop box and one (sometimes two) paddle boards up there.
No worries about the toe wiggle room as we only sleep downstairs ;-)

-Pete

@Pete here are some pics. I found this to be a very useful mod if you want anything on the roof - other wise the back end will sag and your toes will not have any room :). Also helps when lifting the top when stuff is on the roof. I think it would be too much if you don't have any roof stuff tho cuz it might be too hard to pull it down - could go with weaker struts in that case.

Struts I got from Princess Auto (Canada). You can look up the specs at . Pretty strong strut and maybe overkill.

On the other bottom side I had to make an angle mount from aluminum angle for the bottom mount as they didn't sell the steel one (as pictured) any more.

The only slightly tricky parts:
?- cutting the top 10mm ball stud length down to just the right length so as to be able to wiggle it in in the top U shaped metal bracket
?- the 10mm balls come in wide and narrow shoulder widths (i.e. between the ball and the mounting shoulder) - wide shoulders at the top cause the ball to protrude too much into the U shaped channel to allow you to get the socket end of the strut into the ball
????? - i.e. use narrow shouldered ones

Let me know if you need more info.

PS? - I've basically had this setup on the van for 7+ years with no issues with the top (so far :) )

--
George Y

95 EVC Winnabago - Ottawa ON area
?

Look in the Files section of the 开云体育 page for ACP_Repair.pdf .

?By the way, I have yet to get any leaks in the 8 years I've had the tracks installed.? ?Technology is pretty good for sealing.? Again, GoWesty is not going to promote a problematic solution.? ?So I say, stick with the experts' tried and true Yakima track system and don't overthink it in fear of a non-issue.?

I've often thought of installing the roof racks, I have them on every vehicle.? If I were to do it on my 95EVC I'd place some full length white oak strips in the grooves of the poptop bolted through the roof and through some 1/2X4 oak strips on the interior side, thinking it would stiffen up the plastic and keep it from cracking.

Nice solution George. Any chance you can post pics of the? rear hinge gas struts you added to handle the extra weight?

Thanks,
Pete
2000 EVC, ~210k