If you've got +3 volts at a bulb... and you've beat yourself up checking grounds...?

More likely you've got loose or corroded connections to the + battery terminal...

Definitely sounds like a bad ground. Interesting the Norcold doesn't work while the control panel does. Don't understand your comment that the "norcold is unresponsive on the the converter". Does the NOrcold work on AC or propane? Have you checked the circuit breakers? Pulled them out and reset them? Have you removed the breaker panel and looked for loose connections- burned wiring? I'll pull some schematics tomorrow and see if I can think of anything.

sam

02 EVC

On 1/20/2023 10:10 AM, angelescrest via groups.io wrote:

Hello, I help a friend with her 2000 EVC. I've managed to get quite a bit working on it, but the camper electrical system is still a little quirky and contradictory.

I'm writing because, long story short, I'm wondering if there is someone else in greater Los Angeles (van is in Burbank area) who could help us out w/ this van, as i've got one more afternoon w/ it before I say "I really don't know!" Among the possibilities is a loose ground wire, but I need a better wrench to disconnect the LP line to the heater (which is frozen, presumably never having been disconnected) without breaking it to better access the ground.

Regardless, the issue is basically none of the cabin lights work, and if you play w/ the cabin lights, it'll trigger what I believe to be the LP monitor low voltage alarm (though I think it could just be its expiration sound too -- it's never been replaced). For the main cabin dome light, when I turn it "on" it gives an approx 3-volt reading, though the battery across the terminals is 12.4. The water pump does work. I also notice the galley fluorescent light flickers on for a second when I connect the battery cabin battery, but is unresponsive to the switch (which is the one that triggers the LP alarm). The control panel does work, and the fridge doesn't (but I imagine that might be something else -- haven't done much trial/error w/ the norcold fridge, which is unresponsive on the converter, and makes me wonder if the intellipower converter is just shot, too)

The best I can tell, there's an issue w/ the DC wiring, and my next afternoon is hunting for a loose ground wire, but if I can't find one, then I'm not sure where to go next.

I have the appropriate service manuals, and can share a little more re: specific voltage read outs taken across different points in the system, but I will keep my cry for help relatively short.

Thanks for reading, and please take care.

Hello, I help a friend with her 2000 EVC. I've managed to get quite a bit working on it, but the camper electrical system is still a little quirky and contradictory.

I'm writing because, long story short, I'm wondering if there is someone else in greater Los Angeles (van is in Burbank area) who could help us out w/ this van, as i've got one more afternoon w/ it before I say "I really don't know!" Among the possibilities is a loose ground wire, but I need a better wrench to disconnect the LP line to the heater (which is frozen, presumably never having been disconnected) without breaking it to better access the ground.

Regardless, the issue is basically none of the cabin lights work, and if you play w/ the cabin lights, it'll trigger what I believe to be the LP monitor low voltage alarm (though I think it could just be its expiration sound too -- it's never been replaced). For the main cabin dome light, when I turn it "on" it gives an approx 3-volt reading, though the battery across the terminals is 12.4. The water pump does work. I also notice the galley fluorescent light flickers on for a second when I connect the battery cabin battery, but is unresponsive to the switch (which is the one that triggers the LP alarm). The control panel does work, and the fridge doesn't (but I imagine that might be something else -- haven't done much trial/error w/ the norcold fridge, which is unresponsive on the converter, and makes me wonder if the intellipower converter is just shot, too)

The best I can tell, there's an issue w/ the DC wiring, and my next afternoon is hunting for a loose ground wire, but if I can't find one, then I'm not sure where to go next.

I have the appropriate service manuals, and can share a little more re: specific voltage read outs taken across different points in the system, but I will keep my cry for help relatively short.

Thanks for reading, and please take care.

On Jan 20, 2023, at 07:10, angelescrest via <angelescrest@...> wrote:

Hello, I help a friend with her 2000 EVC. I've managed to get quite a bit working on it, but the camper electrical system is still a little quirky and contradictory.

I'm writing because, long story short, I'm wondering if there is someone else in greater Los Angeles (van is in Burbank area) who could help us out w/ this van, as i've got one more afternoon w/ it before I say "I really don't know!" Among the possibilities is a loose ground wire, but I need a better wrench to disconnect the LP line to the heater (which is frozen, presumably never having been disconnected) without breaking it to better access the ground.

Regardless, the issue is basically none of the cabin lights work, and if you play w/ the cabin lights, it'll trigger what I believe to be the LP monitor low voltage alarm (though I think it could just be its expiration sound too -- it's never been replaced). For the main cabin dome light, when I turn it "on" it gives an approx 3-volt reading, though the battery across the terminals is 12.4. The water pump does work. I also notice the galley fluorescent light flickers on for a second when I connect the battery cabin battery, but is unresponsive to the switch (which is the one that triggers the LP alarm). The control panel does work, and the fridge doesn't (but I imagine that might be something else -- haven't done much trial/error w/ the norcold fridge, which is unresponsive on the converter, and makes me wonder if the intellipower converter is just shot, too)

The best I can tell, there's an issue w/ the DC wiring, and my next afternoon is hunting for a loose ground wire, but if I can't find one, then I'm not sure where to go next.

I have the appropriate service manuals, and can share a little more re: specific voltage read outs taken across different points in the system, but I will keep my cry for help relatively short.

Thanks for reading, and please take care.

Hello, I help a friend with her 2000 EVC. I've managed to get quite a bit working on it, but the camper electrical system is still a little quirky and contradictory.

I'm writing because, long story short, I'm wondering if there is someone else in greater Los Angeles (van is in Burbank area) who could help us out w/ this van, as i've got one more afternoon w/ it before I say "I really don't know!" Among the possibilities is a loose ground wire, but I need a better wrench to disconnect the LP line to the heater (which is frozen, presumably never having been disconnected) without breaking it to better access the ground.

Regardless, the issue is basically none of the cabin lights work, and if you play w/ the cabin lights, it'll trigger what I believe to be the LP monitor low voltage alarm (though I think it could just be its expiration sound too -- it's never been replaced). For the main cabin dome light, when I turn it "on" it gives an approx 3-volt reading, though the battery across the terminals is 12.4. The water pump does work. I also notice the galley fluorescent light flickers on for a second when I connect the battery cabin battery, but is unresponsive to the switch (which is the one that triggers the LP alarm). The control panel does work, and the fridge doesn't (but I imagine that might be something else -- haven't done much trial/error w/ the norcold fridge, which is unresponsive on the converter, and makes me wonder if the intellipower converter is just shot, too)

The best I can tell, there's an issue w/ the DC wiring, and my next afternoon is hunting for a loose ground wire, but if I can't find one, then I'm not sure where to go next.

I have the appropriate service manuals, and can share a little more re: specific voltage read outs taken across different points in the system, but I will keep my cry for help relatively short.

Thanks for reading, and please take care.

On Dec 14, 2022, at 10:11 AM, evripos via <evripos@...> wrote:

Mike,

Do you happen to know the VW part number?

Yanni

On Wed, Dec 14, 2022 at 12:33 PM, Michael Diehr

<md03@...> wrote:

An update on the saga.? See for the backstory.

My 2000 EVC with the GM retrofitted vapor canister was due for a smog check.? I took it to the local guy who is friendly and has seen the van before, and asked him "will this pass"?? He said that it would not pass visual inspection, but there is a referee process one could use to try to get approval.? However, he's mostly seen people trying to get non OEM catalytic converters approved, and has never heard of anybody getting a non-OEM vapor canister approved.? His opinion was that it would be difficult, because (A) it's a GM part and (B) it's in a different location than stock.

In any case, I told him that I had the original canister which was in (somewhat) working condition.? He said that if I brought the van in with no OBD II faults and all readiness codes set, with the OEM canister installed, it would pass.

So that's what I did.? I left the GM canister in place, zip tied the hoses up out of the way, and re-installed the WV canister.? It took about 30 minutes to swap it and pass smog.?

I have 2 years till the next smog check, so that gives some time to decide what to do next - perhaps some third party will start making these parts again?? Perhaps I'll try the referee process?

Mike

On Wed, Dec 14, 2022 at 12:33 PM, Michael Diehr

<md03@...> wrote:

An update on the saga.? See for the backstory.

My 2000 EVC with the GM retrofitted vapor canister was due for a smog check.? I took it to the local guy who is friendly and has seen the van before, and asked him "will this pass"?? He said that it would not pass visual inspection, but there is a referee process one could use to try to get approval.? However, he's mostly seen people trying to get non OEM catalytic converters approved, and has never heard of anybody getting a non-OEM vapor canister approved.? His opinion was that it would be difficult, because (A) it's a GM part and (B) it's in a different location than stock.

In any case, I told him that I had the original canister which was in (somewhat) working condition.? He said that if I brought the van in with no OBD II faults and all readiness codes set, with the OEM canister installed, it would pass.

So that's what I did.? I left the GM canister in place, zip tied the hoses up out of the way, and re-installed the WV canister.? It took about 30 minutes to swap it and pass smog.?

I have 2 years till the next smog check, so that gives some time to decide what to do next - perhaps some third party will start making these parts again?? Perhaps I'll try the referee process?

Mike

On Dec 8, 2022, at 6:35 PM, Droppin bombs via groups.io <duckdive@...> wrote:

?See attached photo of (3) bulb plastic thingy mounted to firewall.? Looks like the rivets failed.

Guessing a sheet metal screw to remount would suffice... unless anybody has any other suggestions?

<IMG_4141.jpg>

<IMG_4140.jpg>