Getting ready to put our MV on the market.? Sad, but realistically, it's not getting used.? Bought from a friend 7/2020 w/95k and currently only has 108k


It's had the tranny refurb done and last year we had the A/C mixing box repair done by specialty v-dub shop.? Everything works as it should with exception that it throws EVAP codes and frankly we've just ignored it for all the obvious reasons.

I have all records documenting first owner from day-one.

Asking $13k OBO.
Mostly just think it needs a good home!
a

Mike
i don’t have any suggestions on shop, but I believe GTA only does Trans- I shipped my trans to them (from N. Carolina) for a go over and a $2 seal replacement at about 227 kmi (it had no issues other than one seal, but I figured it with the miles it needed to be looked over, and the one seal was leaking so good time). I would give them a call as I had heard in my research that there are a number of shops that work on the engines in the Bend Or. area (at the very least that pull the trans for GTA) worth a try-I found GTA very helpful and good. ?The question is a good one as few places can be trusted- I know of two I feel good, no where near you-Austin and Charlotte.

Out of curiosity is that your original timing chain? ?I did mine at 126 kmi and again at 227 kmi- both times it looked decent, but I know the guides can deteriorate and cause issues as you expressed. (I believe the upper hydraulic tensioner was failing at the 126 kmi time- causing ?marbles in can sound which is why I changed it- 2nd time was prophylactic). I now have 324 kmi on it and other than the valve guides (which on overnight startup show mild oil signs for2 minutes the engine is still great and burns no oil. I have not had any internal issues in the engine but had I believe I had at least 2 bad oil pressure sensors in a row back at 227kmi that lead me to think I had very low oil pressure- that was a deep rabbit hole- after a number of consults with top VW mechanics, and having a single crank and rod bearing being pulled and them being “pristine” I got another new O.P. Sensor and changed to 0w40 (recommendation was 0w30 or 40 by a top VW mechanic) all was fine, and remains such thus far. I change my oil at 5-7.5 kmi periods and good synthetic only and do most of my own work- though that may change as I no loner have a garage and am in a condo after my move.?
Happy trails
Phil B 2003 AXK ?EV WE 324 kmi

They’re exclusively a tranny shop last time I checked. It’s been awhile though…
--
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)

开云体育

?

Well it seems to finally be time to freshen up the motor in our 2002 EV MV Weekender. It has about 260,000 miles on it. I was going to take it on a long road trip to CO last week but just prior, the oil pressure light came on. I did not find any issues (oil pouring out, noisy engine, etc.) but am afraid I have a piece of timing chain guide that got sucked up in to the oil pickup. I would like to get the engine freshened up along with a new timing chain and guides.

?

Do any of you have a preferred VW AXK VR6 engine rebuilder in or around Everett, WA? How about places to avoid?

?

I could do the work but am busy with other things and am considering having it done at a shop.

?

Thanks!

Mike Clough

German Trans axle in Bend Oregon. They only work on vehicles shipped or brought to their shop.

开云体育

I replaced my shut off valve (rather, had it done by a local propane outlet). While I was doing that, I replaced the regulator and painted the tank, as well. You can read about it here:?
--
David
1705.net
95 EVG(lamper)
Seattle, WA

Hi Mark,? Hopefully you're still following eurovanUpdate...? I'm experiencing the same LP tank service valve malfunction, live in Charlestown, and am unable to find anybody to help repair.? Have you been able to find someone locally who can service your the LP system on your EVC?? any other advice?? Many thanks, Charlie Taylor

Thanks for the reply Joshua!? I've seen the listings but I'm leery that they aren't actually the part and how difficult the return would be.? I was hoping that someone had a success story and a definitive source.

KC

All you are doing is connecting one hose to another.? The clamps are already there and for 2001 to 2003 I know that a union is already in place right there by the little screw vent.? You can disconnect one hose going to the firewall at that union and the other at the firewall and join them together.? There are few things under the hood easier to do than this.? Just make sure it's cooled down.

BUT perhaps the earlier versions had different plumbing and would require actually providinga union for the hose.? In that case any parts store will have a union (measure ID of hose) or even a garden hose repair kit should work fine if metal.??

Googling that part number shows several online dealers who purport to have the part new. There's a chance you'll order it and they'll cancel the order because stock doesn't really exist, but it's worth a shot.

Does anyone know of a source for the two plastic "wedges" that create the transition from the door frame to the door panel and close the gap with the seal? There is one at the top of the front and back of the panel and they can be removed

They are #13 on this diagram and the one that I can read the part number on looks like?701 867 691



This part also shows up but they don't really look like this image,?

Thanks,
Kent

As posted earlier, I need a rack and pinion assembly for 2002 EuroVan Camper.

UPDATE: Completed the bypass yesterday in about 10 minutes as others described as well.? Definitely think keeping a bypass kit in the Eurovan is a good idea.? $20 backup plan.

Photos will be posted on my website.? Super easy and only required pliers.? I did a refill of coolant, started, drove, topped off... and today I'll check it all again to be sure there isn't another leak.

Question though: My dash temp/coolant light has been blinking even before this failure.? I had already replaced the coolant reservoir... thinking that it was a sensor/reservoir issue.? What conditions will make that dash light turn ON/blink?

- low coolant
- high temp?
- faulty/disconnected temp sensors?? (possibly bad wire or bad sensor)

Is there a VAGCOM-VCDS check I can run that would help diagnose why this is blinking?

I had basically the same problem on my 2003.? I recently repainted my bumpers with Raptor 2-part paint from Go-Westy and discovered that the passenger side fog light was broken off at the inside mounting.? The glass Lense had separated and was rattling against the bumper.? I ended up buying an aftermarket set of LED fog lights from eBay in Britian.? Had to put on new wire ends and dump the VW 2 pin connectors.? I'm not crazy about the fitment (They are plastic and just screw into the inside bumper) but the light from these is terrific!? I'm starting to think that checking anything lower than knee level might automatically become a project.

I don't know if your setup is different than my 2002, but when mine went out I located the connectors going to the heater at the firewall and was able to disconnect the in and out hoses and join them right there using only a screwdriver if I remember right.? Took 10 minutes at a rest area and we finished our summer trip without heat.? No problem.?
Pulling the dash later to change it was a pain, though.??

Here’s a pic of an order I made w p/ns sometime last winter.?

--
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)