advice and parts for 2003 EV MV WE
Hi, all -? I took my van to the dealer as my local go to guy wasn’t available for a 40K service at 155K miles. Major issues discovered included a coolant leak and an oil leak. The coolant leak requires a new water pump altho it was replaced 4 years and 20K miles ago. The part is on order.
I was told the oil leak was from a valve cover gasket -which was diagnosed by putting something in the oil and using a UV light. The engine is still intact. The dealer told me the gasket parts are no longer available and they couldn’t find an aftermarket source. I did get the part numbers which are listed here as follows: 022-133-227B -1 needed? 022-133-227D - 2 needed 022-133-227A-1 needed Other gaskets that were available included 022-103-483-E (1 needed) and 022-103-484-F (6 needed).
I am at the dealer's mercy as I have no clue about any of this. The only positive thing is that I was told the technician working on the van was a Eurovan owner but of course I didn’t think to ask to talk to him.
My question for those who know about these things - are there alternatives to these gaskets? I did look on GoWesty and found 022-133-227A which is listed as an intake manifold gasket-lower for the princely sum of ?$8.94. ?The Bus Depot has A ($6.82) & B ($28.81) but not D.?
My sense is to let the dealer do the water pump and the rear brakes - but to keep searching for gaskets and find someone else to do that repair. Is that reasonable? What kind of risk to harming the engine do I have by putting off this repair? Much of my reluctance is the dealer’s charge of $280 to diagnose each issue … - for example I asked them to find out why the motor for the external mirrors didn’t work - ?$280 ?to tell me the fuse was ok but wanted $480 to take door panels off to continue to diagnose the issue ?and then whatever to fix it. Plus a warning that the plastic parts could break. Grrr. Said no to that one.?
Thanks for any advice! Kate
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gaskets and parts search for 2003 EV WE
Hi, all -?
I took my van to the dealer as my local go to guy wasn’t available for a 40K service at 155K miles. Major issues discovered included a coolant leak and an oil leak. The coolant leak requires a new water pump altho it was replaced 4 years and 20K miles ago. The part is on order.
?
I was told the oil leak was from a valve cover gasket -which the service advisor informed me when I asked was diagnosed by putting something in the oil and using a UV light. The engine is still intact. The dealer told me the gasket parts are no longer available and they couldn’t find an aftermarket source. I did get the part numbers which are listed here as follows:
022-133-227B -1 needed?
022-133-227D - 2 needed
022-133-227A-1 needed
Other gaskets that were needed and available included 022-103-483-E (1 needed) and 022-103-484-F (6 needed). I am unclear as to why they are needed. The answer from the service advisor was along the lines of "the technician said so".?
?
I am at the dealer's mercy as I have no clue about any of this. The only positive thing is that I was told the technician working on the van was a Eurovan owner but of course I didn’t think to ask to talk to him.
?
My question for those who know about these things - are there alternatives to these gaskets? I did look on GoWesty and found 022-133-227A which is listed as an intake manifold gasket-lower for the princely sum of ?$8.94. ?The Bus Depot has A ($6.82) & B ($28.81) but not D. I didn't order them yet.
?
My sense is to let the dealer do the water pump and the rear brakes - but to keep searching for gaskets and find someone else to do that repair. Is that reasonable? What kind of risk of engine ?harm do I have by putting off this repair? Much of my reluctance is the dealer’s charge of $280 to diagnose each issue … - for example I asked them to find out why the motor for the external mirrors didn’t work - ?$280 ?to tell me the fuse was ok but wanted $480 to take door panels off to continue to diagnose the issue ?and then whatever to fix it. Plus a warning that the plastic parts could break. Grrr. Said no to that one.?
?
Thanks for any advice!
Kate
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Okay I've seen a few things about opening the rear hatch from the inside. I have a 2001 Weekender does anybody know how to do this?
Thx
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Re: EVC rear hatch (Liftgate) latch operation has "reversed"
That's it the 3 lock position?
On Wed, Aug 24, 2022 at 10:19 AM, Carl Hansen via groups.io <CARL_HANSEN@...> wrote: Physically impossible for the operation to "Reverse"...
Check the owners manual on the lock 3 positions?
Ch
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Re: EVC rear hatch (Liftgate) latch operation has "reversed"
Physically impossible for the operation to "Reverse"...
Check the owners manual on the lock 3 positions?
Ch
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Re: EVC rear hatch (Liftgate) latch operation has "reversed"
You know I had a similar problem in my 2001 I think what I realized is the key turns a couple different ways one will allow it to be unlocked when the other doors are locked and the other way it will not .I really can't remember but it was something to do with the key anyway give it a try it's easy if it works.
On Tue, Aug 23, 2022 at 10:10 PM, George Ya <gny@...> wrote: All of a sudden the rear liftgate outside handle will not open the liftgate when the van is unlocked, but will open when the van is locked. Has this been seen before (I can't find anything)?
Short of replacing the electric actuator (I assume it must be faulty inside?), any actuator repair videos out there?
Alternately, the Chinese replacement ones seem to be very inexpensive -> are they reliable?
--
George Y
95 EVC Winnabago - Ottawa ON area
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EVC rear hatch (Liftgate) latch operation has "reversed"
All of a sudden the rear liftgate outside handle will not open the liftgate when the van is unlocked, but will open when the van is locked. Has this been seen before (I can't find anything)?
Short of replacing the electric actuator (I assume it must be faulty inside?), any actuator repair videos out there?
Alternately, the Chinese replacement ones seem to be very inexpensive -> are they reliable?
--
George Y
95 EVC Winnabago - Ottawa ON area
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Re: Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper
#partswanted
Female “spade” connector ;-)
--
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)
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Re: Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper
#partswanted
Nice write-up, thank you Ken.
- Jonathan 1999 EVC
On Monday, August 22, 2022 at 10:48:10 AM PDT, Ken <ken.friesen@...> wrote:
Michael mentioned to bring a spare ignition switch and right angle screwdriver as part of the spare parts. Having the ignition switch just fail me one day before taking it on a long trip in the Sierras I decided to do a write up on it. The actual 'emergency 'part I would recommend is a three foot wire with a female butt connector on one end. This is to simply 'jump' the van when it doesn't start because the ignition switch went bad. Here's my write up on the emergency and permanent fix:
Ken
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Re: Which Tools & Parts Would You Recommend for a Road Trip? 2001 Eurovan Camper
#partswanted
Michael mentioned to bring a spare ignition switch and right angle screwdriver as part of the spare parts. Having the ignition switch just fail me one day before taking it on a long trip in the Sierras I decided to do a write up on it. The actual 'emergency 'part I would recommend is a three foot wire with a female butt connector on one end. This is to simply 'jump' the van when it doesn't start because the ignition switch went bad. Here's my write up on the emergency and permanent fix:
Ken
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Re: New HD 1200N rear hatch struts installed domestic supplier
I installed the same spare tire mount and struts, the struts seem a little light in the uplift power, becareful on cold days as the struts seem to be a little weaker till they warm up.
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Re: New HD 1200N rear hatch struts installed domestic supplier
Next, let's see if the door hinges can take and keep the door in alignment.?
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On Aug 20, 2022, at 10:55 PM, coastielfs <lfsiegle@...> wrote:
? Nice, that vendor is worth remembering! After installing a spare tire rack and tire on my rear hatch it was no surprise the OE struts couldn’t hold up the hatch anymore—not a chance. After diving into several old threads trying to track down the proper “uprated” 1200n HD struts and striking out with several NLA suppliers in the UK, and domestically both I found a supplier based in California who was a breeze to work with, shipped for free and was here in just 2-3 days. Total cost $58.00, and the 1157n rating is close enough for me ?
?Anyhow I’m very happy with the final results w my “heavier than normal” rear hatch held up high and functioning normally?once again.?
?
?
--?
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)
  
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Re: New HD 1200N rear hatch struts installed domestic supplier
Nice, that vendor is worth remembering!
After installing a spare tire rack and tire on my rear hatch it was no surprise the OE struts couldn’t hold up the hatch anymore—not a chance. After diving into several old threads trying to track down the proper “uprated” 1200n HD struts and striking out with several NLA suppliers in the UK, and domestically both I found a supplier based in California who was a breeze to work with, shipped for free and was here in just 2-3 days. Total cost $58.00, and the 1157n rating is close enough for me ?
?Anyhow I’m very happy with the final results w my “heavier than normal” rear hatch held up high and functioning normally?once again.?
?
?
--?
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)
  
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New HD 1200N rear hatch struts installed domestic supplier
After installing a spare tire rack and tire on my rear hatch it was no surprise the OE struts couldn’t hold up the hatch anymore—not a chance. After diving into several old threads trying to track down the proper “uprated” 1200n HD struts and striking out with several NLA suppliers in the UK, and domestically both I found a supplier based in California who was a breeze to work with, shipped for free and was here in just 2-3 days. Total cost $58.00, and the 1157n rating is close enough for me ?
?Anyhow I’m very happy with the final results w my “heavier than normal” rear hatch held up high and functioning normally?once again.?
?
?
--?
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)
  
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Selling my 1995 Manual EVC with 92K miles
I love this van but we don't seem to be able to get out camping anymore so I am reluctantly selling it.? Posted on The Samba:?
Thanks! Deb 1995 EVC
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
I reached out to 16cvs per Mike?Brown's recommendation (thanks Mike!). Waiting to hear back on any suggestions for shops on the peninsula.
On Fri, Aug 19, 2022 at 7:57 AM Michael Diehr < md03@...> wrote: Re: San Diego area:? I had same rust-around-windshield problem, got it all fixed at a body shop (including new windshield).
Not cheap - about $1800, but this was done in 2010 and has held up perfectly.? It was "Bradley Allen Autobody & Paint" in Encinitas.
> On Aug 18, 2022, at 10:02 AM, Droppin bombs via <duckdive=[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Following.? I've got the same issue.? I'm located in San Diego.? Let's compare notes and quotes.? My rust has been pretty bad.? Wish I dealt with it earlier.
>
> I've got bad rust around my spider web windshield, along a rear and a side window, and along the foot well.?
>
> Don't end up with a bad TCM -
>
> Luckily, swapping that took care of it.
>
>
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
Re: San Diego area: I had same rust-around-windshield problem, got it all fixed at a body shop (including new windshield).
Not cheap - about $1800, but this was done in 2010 and has held up perfectly. It was "Bradley Allen Autobody & Paint" in Encinitas.
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On Aug 18, 2022, at 10:02 AM, Droppin bombs via groups.io <duckdive@...> wrote:
Following. I've got the same issue. I'm located in San Diego. Let's compare notes and quotes. My rust has been pretty bad. Wish I dealt with it earlier.
I've got bad rust around my spider web windshield, along a rear and a side window, and along the foot well.
Don't end up with a bad TCM -
Luckily, swapping that took care of it.
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
On Thu, Aug 18, 2022 at 03:22 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
I've been able to solder new metal in to replace rusted out areas. But that's no good for anything structural.
I don't know a specific shop in CA, but a fellow in NH found a place that builds race car bodies.? They work on his Rialta during their down time, so don't charge him an arm and a leg, but do all the sheet metal, including structural replacement.? Another fellow in FL wasn't as lucky.? His 'repair' lasted all of 2 years before the rust was worse than ever. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 220K Miles
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
16cvs on the samba vanagon forum is a windshield repair guy in San Fran. Message him through it and I bet he can either help you or point you in the right direction.
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On Aug 18, 2022, at 4:22 PM, Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote:
?matthew urso wrote:
Same with the rust... I'm in Colorado and shops here really don't like dealing with it My grandfather was really good at brazing new pieces of sheet steel into thin steel car bodies to replace rusted out areas. He was also amazingly good with an English wheel at making entirely new pieces of compound curved metal; even entire hoods or fenders from scratch! Alas, he is no more. Skills like that seem to have disappeared.
I've been able to solder new metal in to replace rusted out areas. But that's no good for anything structural.
Bondo of course makes it look smooth and nice; but it will not stop the metal from continuing to rust. I've found that POR-15 is the best paint for preserving rusted areas that are still structurally sound. Then you can fill in the holes without the repair just falling out again.
I wish I knew of a home handyman technique for stopping rust as effectively as the original coatings used on newer cars.
Happy motoring,
Lee Hart
--
Knowledge is better than belief. Belief is when someone else does
your thinking for you. (anonymous)
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
--
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Re: Body shop recommendations? - San Francisco Bay Area
matthew urso wrote: Same with the rust... I'm in Colorado and shops here really don't like dealing with it My grandfather was really good at brazing new pieces of sheet steel into thin steel car bodies to replace rusted out areas. He was also amazingly good with an English wheel at making entirely new pieces of compound curved metal; even entire hoods or fenders from scratch! Alas, he is no more. Skills like that seem to have disappeared. I've been able to solder new metal in to replace rusted out areas. But that's no good for anything structural. Bondo of course makes it look smooth and nice; but it will not stop the metal from continuing to rust. I've found that POR-15 is the best paint for preserving rusted areas that are still structurally sound. Then you can fill in the holes without the repair just falling out again. I wish I knew of a home handyman technique for stopping rust as effectively as the original coatings used on newer cars. Happy motoring, Lee Hart -- Knowledge is better than belief. Belief is when someone else does your thinking for you. (anonymous) -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com
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Justin Soares
Duane
Lee Hart