There is no EGR valve in the I5 engine afaik.
This sounds like you may have a fuel flow issue (it's usually the fuel filter), and the ECU is attempting to compensate by richening out the mixture (it's the default VW setting as well for when things go wrong: just flood the engine with fuel)
If it's not that, it's one of the other 4 digifant sensors that control fuel mixture
Also, you may have a vacuum leak issue.? Your excellent mechanics should know about this stuff.
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Hey folks,
I've been pretty quiet for a while but I've been able to start tackling some EV projects and I have some questions for the group.?
One thing I've wondered is if this is the best place still to post questions.? There seem to be more forums out there now and Samba is more active with EV conversation as they age. Facebook groups seem to get a ton of traffic but not quite as expert advice.? Where do you find the best information?
To my topic, I've been battling with my 210,000 5spd being hard to get into 1st gear for a while and last year 5th gear started to not want to mesh up easily.? I replaced all the linkage bushings again and really paid a lot of attention to the adjustment of the shift rod and it still wasn't as good as I was hoping.??
I decided to change the fluid since I couldn't remember when but I was sure that I had changed it in the last 100k/15 years.? I discovered that it was low (I was sure I had checked at some point) and the fluid was quite nasty. It looked more like dirty motor oil and there was a fair amount of nastiness looking in the fill hole.
I refilled with the Redline fluid that GoWesty sells and have driven about 10k on it since. It feels good and goes into 1st consistently and easily.? 5th is still a difficult speed meshing of the syncro to get it into gear, especially after it warms up.
I'm curious if anyone has had trouble with the Redline oil over VW spec oil?? I have a faint memory of using an aftermarket oil in my Jetta TDI manual and I didn't like it and went back to stock for similar reasons.
Also, I'm curious if anyone has ever put Seafoam or similar in a manual trans to clean it up?? I've never seen anyone mention it.
Thanks for your help and I still follow all the posts on this group as it has certainly saved me over the years, not to mention the files section.
Kent
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Thanks Justin!? I love hearing about your TDI EV exploits and I miss getting all those details from a few years back.? It's still something that I would love to tackle when my '95 I5 gives up the ghost or one of my VR6s drives me too crazy trying to get parts.
Thanks,
Kent
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Interesting stuff. I like hearing about it, thanks.
David
On Tuesday, August 9, 2022 at 06:48:17 PM PDT, Justin Soares <greaseworks@...> wrote:
My next mods on this van will be in the performance dept. and both are ones I have some experience w in this van as well as on other platforms—not that this vans a slouch in anyway! Future perf mods: 11mm injection pump redux and propane fumigation.
this gets into the tech weeds right away so skip the rest of this message if need be. My plan is to put the 11mm injection pump back on there that I pulled off this past winter at a timing belt service interval and replaced w the stock 10mm one, as a test to see if my mpgs would get a decent bump—they did not, no gains noticeable (stock AHU IP has a 10mm plunger; but the decrease in power was noticeable! It had an 11mm IP from a a later tdi eng the ALH w A/T ?modded to fit an AHU eng on there for the last 80k miles and I swapped?it out this past winter for the mpg test.
The other mod I’ve got on the horizon is a LPG fumigation mod and something I’ve played around with on a T3 Vanagon also w a MK3 Tdi eng conversion some years ago (decades now:). That was a nice and relatively easy mod that gave a noticeable power bump as well as a slight (2-3mpg) bump, and I like to think a cleaner burn of the diesel fuel—smelled cleaner anyhow. It involves—brace yourselves—plumbing a line from the propane take to the air intake and introducing lpg into the combustion chamber. “Fumigating” a combustible had lpg into the motor via the intake air. Not something for the faint of heart. Lots more info online about this so do your research for more info. I only know diesels and obviously there are very few diesel EVs in NA. Anyhow I’ll keep the list posted on these mods and remember YMMV ;-)
I’m realizing I just hijacked my my own thread—sorry!
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My next mods on this van will be in the performance dept. and both are ones I have some experience w in this van as well as on other platforms—not that this vans a slouch in anyway! Future perf mods: 11mm injection pump redux and propane fumigation.
this gets into the tech weeds right away so skip the rest of this message if need be. My plan is to put the 11mm injection pump back on there that I pulled off this past winter at a timing belt service interval and replaced w the stock 10mm one, as a test to see if my mpgs would get a decent bump—they did not, no gains noticeable (stock AHU IP has a 10mm plunger; but the decrease in power was noticeable! It had an 11mm IP from a a later tdi eng the ALH w A/T ?modded to fit an AHU eng on there for the last 80k miles and I swapped?it out this past winter for the mpg test.
The other mod I’ve got on the horizon is a LPG fumigation mod and something I’ve played around with on a T3 Vanagon also w a MK3 Tdi eng conversion some years ago (decades now:). That was a nice and relatively easy mod that gave a noticeable power bump as well as a slight (2-3mpg) bump, and I like to think a cleaner burn of the diesel fuel—smelled cleaner anyhow. It involves—brace yourselves—plumbing a line from the propane take to the air intake and introducing lpg into the combustion chamber. “Fumigating” a combustible had lpg into the motor via the intake air. Not something for the faint of heart. Lots more info online about this so do your research for more info. I only know diesels and obviously there are very few diesel EVs in NA. Anyhow I’ll keep the list posted on these mods and remember YMMV ;-)
I’m realizing I just hijacked my my own thread—sorry!
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Yeah Justin, it's one great story of the T4.? It has some weak places but more strong mechanical parts.? Your plug in of the diesel is only going to help.? Thanks for the pics, and keep talking about your maintenance.?
v/r,
Mike?
--
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)
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Yeah Justin, it's one great story of the T4.? It has some weak places but more strong mechanical parts.? Your plug in of the diesel is only going to help.? Thanks for the pics, and keep talking about your maintenance.?
v/r,
Mike?
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Also, you may have a vacuum leak issue.? Your excellent mechanics should know about this stuff.
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Check your EGR.? Might be sticking, both in cold operation and warm.? I am not familiar with the I5 engine, so I can't expound any more than that.??
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Hi, does anyone need a single rear / center seat? This is in excellent condition and came from a 1999 Eurovan Camper. I am in Bellingham, WA. Please private message me. Thanks, Joe
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What codes do you get ? Have you drove with ?scan reader connected ? Have you drove with pressure gage on fuel ?
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On Aug 9, 2022, at 12:46 PM, Joshua Van Tol <jvantol@...> wrote:
?Have you tried temporarily installing a fuel pressure gauge to see if you're losing fuel pressure when these things happen?
I would suggest you or your mechanic do that and see that the pressure is stable while running, and that it does not bleed down quickly when shut down (it should hold pressure for an hour or more).
You might also have a bad MAP sensor in the ECU. I know you said it was replaced, but apparently a lot of them are bad by now. Someone on the samba wrote up a procedure for replacing it with a part from eBay, which I did, and can vouch for the process being cheap and easy.
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Have you tried temporarily installing a fuel pressure gauge to see if you're losing fuel pressure when these things happen?
I would suggest you or your mechanic do that and see that the pressure is stable while running, and that it does not bleed down quickly when shut down (it should hold pressure for an hour or more).
You might also have a bad MAP sensor in the ECU. I know you said it was replaced, but apparently a lot of them are bad by now. Someone on the samba wrote up a procedure for replacing it with a part from eBay, which I did, and can vouch for the process being cheap and easy.
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You or your mechanic might find something helpful?on "Ken's Digifant" site.
Havana, our '95 EVC with 140,000 miles, has some issues that are baffling even the superb mechanics at Independent Auto Works here in Corvallis. I must say that I am of the carburetor?generation?(I've owned three '69 VW buses in my life) and know nothing about injectors.? Thus my descriptions use archaic terminology!? Here are the scenarios and observations of the problems (presumably related):?? 1. Minor, but annoying.? Engine is at running temperature and you stop for groceries, viewpoint or gas for 1 to 15 minutes.? When you restart the engine the idle is rough and usually stalls within 30 seconds.? Restart again and pull onto the road- minimal power for about 30-60 seconds, crawl along at 20-30 mph until engine suddenly revs up and away you go.? It is like the choke was on and then it opened up. You just hold the gas pedal in place and wait for it to fix itself. 2. Flat curvy roads, speed limited areas and downhills.? Same symptoms as above if you leave her in Drive and let the RPM's drop below 2500.? The "choking" lasts for 1 to 3 minutes until she roars to life. I can usually prevent this by downshifting to 3rd or 2nd (automatic transmission) and keeping her above 3000 RPM, but what a waste of gas and wear and tear! She runs like a dream on the open highway/freeway for hours on end [sigh].?? We just?replaced the computer to no?avail although?it?seems to have fixed?the?stalling issue.? Sensors all seem to check out normal. Any thoughts or ideas?? ? Thanks In?advance, Curtis
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Havana, our '95 EVC with 140,000 miles, has some issues that are baffling even the superb mechanics at Independent Auto Works here in Corvallis. I must say that I am of the carburetor?generation?(I've owned three '69 VW buses in my life) and know nothing about injectors.? Thus my descriptions use archaic terminology!? Here are the scenarios and observations of the problems (presumably related):?? 1. Minor, but annoying.? Engine is at running temperature and you stop for groceries, viewpoint or gas for 1 to 15 minutes.? When you restart the engine the idle is rough and usually stalls within 30 seconds.? Restart again and pull onto the road- minimal power for about 30-60 seconds, crawl along at 20-30 mph until engine suddenly revs up and away you go.? It is like the choke was on and then it opened up. You just hold the gas pedal in place and wait for it to fix itself. 2. Flat curvy roads, speed limited areas and downhills.? Same symptoms as above if you leave her in Drive and let the RPM's drop below 2500.? The "choking" lasts for 1 to 3 minutes until she roars to life. I can usually prevent this by downshifting to 3rd or 2nd (automatic transmission) and keeping her above 3000 RPM, but what a waste of gas and wear and tear! She runs like a dream on the open highway/freeway for hours on end [sigh].?? We just?replaced the computer to no?avail although?it?seems to have fixed?the?stalling issue.? Sensors all seem to check out normal. Any thoughts or ideas?? ? Thanks In?advance, Curtis
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My goal has been to get to 500k since I bought it from the original owner at 395k (w original VR6 12v eng still running and 2nd auto trans still shifting fine). I defer most of the credit to her for getting it to this level as she kept up w regular as well as irregular maintenance like a pro and kept great records with most service being done at VW dealers—at no small expense.
J
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And I thought I had high miles at 306000 miles on our 95 EuroCamper I5maual5spd….? Something to aspire to now!!! Congrats
On Mon, Aug 8, 2022 at 9:45 PM Bill < coteau@...> wrote: Incredible... ?? --
210 421 4614 -? asynchronous communication
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Re: Norcold green light not lighting
UPDATE?: I finally found the culprit this Morning concerning the green light that wasn’t lighting when pressing the RED button on the mainboard. I decided to chase all the air from the gaz lines by forcing the furnace to work first. Next, I vacuummed with a shopvac the chimney outside ‘cause I suspected a spider’s web Inside. Well, after those two procédures, I tried to start the fridge on gas again and it worked !!! Marvelous.....see the results !!! ? Envoyé à partir de pour Windows ?
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Norcold green light not lighting
Hi,
I changed the burner this Spring. After the work, all seemed OK since today on a very hot day while trying to light up the fridge on gas. Each time I push the red button, the green light doesn't show up. There is propane in the tank and the lines are cleared. Don't understand what's going on. Take a look at the flame at the buttom through the window and it's showing. When I step outside to hear if there's a click-click noise at the outside vent, I hear a click-click noise. What does that mean ? It's lighted up but NO green light on the mainboard !!! Someone can help me troubleshoot ?
Yves
'97EVC
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Justin Soares
Joe A.
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Craig
