开云体育

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 开云体育
Date

Re: Diagnosing AC

 

The compressor is not turning on at all. ?The pressure is fine, I checked it. ?1 resistor it turns out is bad, a new one is coming Monday. ?Not sure if the bad resistor keeps the compressor from coming on. ?I don’t know what the next diagnostic step is…


Thanks,
Bryan?



On Saturday, July 30, 2022, 11:15 AM, mike.mcauliffe@... <99mcbear@...> wrote:

Usually one or both of the fan resistors (for the two fans you have) are burnt up.? P/n?701959263D.? If one is burnt up, the other is not long for proper operation either.? Replace both at the same time.? ?Looks like these are available in a lot of places.? If you know how to test a resistor you can confirm that the resistors are good (or bad).? Resistors are located at front of engine.? Have to remove engine lower cowling cover to access directly under the fans.? There are other things that can fail- fan relays, for example, but go for low hanging fruit first.? Be sure that the compressor is turning-? you can tell when you turn the engine on by the additional load.? ??


Re: Diagnosing AC

 

Usually one or both of the fan resistors (for the two fans you have) are burnt up.? P/n?701959263D.? If one is burnt up, the other is not long for proper operation either.? Replace both at the same time.? ?Looks like these are available in a lot of places.? If you know how to test a resistor you can confirm that the resistors are good (or bad).? Resistors are located at front of engine.? Have to remove engine lower cowling cover to access directly under the fans.? There are other things that can fail- fan relays, for example, but go for low hanging fruit first.? Be sure that the compressor is turning-? you can tell when you turn the engine on by the additional load.? ??


Diagnosing AC

 

开云体育

?

?

The AC in my ’03 is not blowing cold.? The pressure is fine.? The fan does not come on when I put the AC on.? The fan comes on when the engine is hot though.

?

If you have a troubleshooting flowchart that would be ideal.

?

Thanks,

Bryan


Virus-free.


Re: 97 Eurovan running hot

 

Mine runs the same temps ever since I installed the tranny cooler.? I think its just blocked/reduced air flow combined with the heat load of the transmission cooler.

By the time (less) air gets to the radiator, it is preheated by the cooler in front of it.??

I have seen that temps get far higher for VR6 motors in other vehicles that use that engine.


Re: Transmission Fluid Kit

 


Transmission Fluid Kit

 

开云体育

?

There used to be a kit available with the trans fluid, gasket, etc. for the Eurovans ( I have an ’03) . It was about $135 but that was awhile ago. Is that still available somewhere?

?

Thanks,

Bryan


Virus-free.


97 Eurovan running hot

 

Hi all, I have a 97 EVC with about 125,000 miles that has run a bit hot since I have been checking it. The Scanguage says the? operating temperature is closer to 200 and up to 210 or even 220 when pushed, higher then the 183-186 reading I had on the two previous Eurovans I? owned, though in both this Eurovan and previous ones the dash gauge has never shown anything abnormal since it is designed to stay at 'normal' between about 175-210.

Things I've done (and wanted to do anyway to refresh engine): new 80 degree C (176 F) thermostat, new 'crack' pipe and thermostat housing, new water pump, new coolant, new water temp sensor in water jacket, checked to make sure F18 coolant fan sensor in radiator was working correctly and fans turning on to low, medium and high speeds, replaced green resistors behind bumper and checked 2 50 amp fuses near relay block, swapped in new relay block, new radiator, and, since I was replacing the fuel injectors anyway, replaced the head gasket. No real change in temp readings. No CEL codes. I added a transmission oil cooler in front that keeps tranny temps down to 160s/170s. Might be related to coolant flow or radiator as when I turn up the heat to the heater core temp drops 10 degrees pretty quickly and generally stays down closer to 190-195. Also if I take out mechanical thermostat altogether it takes much longer to go to 210.? But new water pump and radiator have me scratching my head why that could be the case. Any ideas?


Re: Retrofit GM 215-464 Vapor Canister to 1997-2000 Eurovan

 

Good advice Phil, a see-through filter makes so much sense.

I found a YT video about the VW N-80 valve and modes of failure and hey presto, at 4:04 a little thimble filter pops out of the canister side hose connector.



I was thinking that maybe if this is partially blocked it might lead to mild excessive pressure while not triggering the fuel tank pressure valve (and hence not triggering a diagnostic code).

When it gets to be my turn to replace the evap canister, I'll plan to extract this thimble filter and do the 'Duane mod' by substituting a NAPA PART 3002 on the canister side of the N-80.

Michael, thanks for these great write ups, they pave the way for the rest of us.

- Jonathan



On Thursday, July 28, 2022 at 04:37:57 AM PDT, Phil <apothecarymortar@...> wrote:


Mike
As to Charcoal dust clogging the N-80:
I would suggest you add a filter just before (to drivers left of N-80). NAPA PART 3002 fits well. Duane came up with this years ago. Simply cut out a very small section of hose- about an inch & a half to two inches - and insert the filter. There are many old style gas filters that do the job. Works great to avoid the charcoal dust from the canister from clogging the N-80. ?Simple and cheap, and readily available, and you can see into the filter- replace when it is obviously dirty. Happy Trails.
Phil B 2003 EV WE 321kmi


Re: Retrofit GM 215-464 Vapor Canister to 1997-2000 Eurovan

Phil
 

Mike
As to Charcoal dust clogging the N-80:
I would suggest you add a filter just before (to drivers left of N-80). NAPA PART 3002 fits well. Duane came up with this years ago. Simply cut out a very small section of hose- about an inch & a half to two inches - and insert the filter. There are many old style gas filters that do the job. Works great to avoid the charcoal dust from the canister from clogging the N-80. ?Simple and cheap, and readily available, and you can see into the filter- replace when it is obviously dirty. Happy Trails.
Phil B 2003 EV WE 321kmi


Re: Retrofit GM 215-464 Vapor Canister to 1997-2000 Eurovan

 

Good ideas, Jonathan:

- no CEL and no codes per VAG-Com, so I don't think I have a leak

- this post on cavevam.com has a great writeup of the 2000 Evap system:

According to this, the N-115 valve connects to the vent, and is open when the van is not running. I can't remember if the gas smell was there before I turned off the engine, or after. That seems important?

- N80 - ironically, during this saga, I replaced my N80 a few weeks ago with a generic part from NAPA. It was either defective, or a piece of junk. When I tested it manually (by applying 12V and blowing through it) I discovered (A) it was backwards (the air would flow only the wrong direction with 12V applied) and (B) even when off, it leaked. So I put the old N80 back on which seems to work fine. I did purchase a brand new N80, but haven't yet installed it. Might be worth it?

Mike

On Jul 26, 2022, at 1:21 PM, Jonathan Mackenzie via groups.io <jonathanmackenzie@...> wrote:

That sounds like a pretty good stress test. I would have expected the check engine light to come on, or at least it could throw an evap code.

Is there a chance that some charcoal dust made its way into the N80 valve filter?

- Jonathan

On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 09:59:05 AM PDT, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:


I'm downgrading this from "reliable" to "mostly reliable":

I'm back from a longer more challenging trip and have mostly success to report, but one failure: After a multi hour drive in temperatures that hit 108F at one point, I filled up with gas at around 4000' elevation, and then drove another 60 miles (in 100F+ temperatures) and ended the drive with final quick uphill to 7500' over about 10 miles. When I stopped the van there was a strong smell of gas, and fumes were escaping from under the van, near the gas tank and my GM vapor canister. There were also gurgling noises, as if the gas in the tank were boiling. I opened the gas cap and there was some pressure release (but not as much as in prior years before this modification). In about a minute everything was OK again, and the rest of the trip was uneventful. There was no smell of gasoline in the engine compartment, nor around the gas cap.

I could not tell whether I had a loose connection to the vapor canister or the gas fumes were venting from some other location.

As I understand it, the entire fuel system is supposed to remain sealed normally. But I assume there must be a pressure release mechanism in case of overpressure, right? If there is an overpressure vent, where is it located? Is it possible that even in a perfectly functional eurovan, extremes of temperature + altitude could overwhelm the vapor canister and cause venting?


On Jul 3, 2022, at 2:11 PM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:

I'm back from another trip, and happy to report the canister replacement is working great. I've driven about 750 miles with it, and done two stress tests: where I drove from sea level to 5000' elevation in 95F temps, and another where I drove to 5000' in about 100F temps, filled up with gas, and immediately drove up to 7500'.

In the past, these situations would have resulted in tons of gasoline fumes, but with the 215-464 canister, it behaved normally.

I'm going to call this a "reliable" fix so far.









Re: Retrofit GM 215-464 Vapor Canister to 1997-2000 Eurovan

 

That sounds like a pretty good stress test. I would have expected the check engine light to come on, or at least it could throw an evap code.

Is there a chance that some charcoal dust made its way into the N80 valve filter?

- Jonathan

On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 09:59:05 AM PDT, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:


I'm downgrading this from "reliable" to "mostly reliable":

I'm back from a longer more challenging trip and have mostly success to report, but one failure:? After a multi hour drive in temperatures that hit 108F at one point, I filled up with gas at around 4000' elevation, and then drove another 60 miles (in 100F+ temperatures) and ended the drive with final quick uphill to 7500' over about 10 miles.? When I stopped the van there was a strong smell of gas, and fumes were escaping from under the van, near the gas tank and my GM vapor canister.? There were also gurgling noises, as if the gas in the tank were boiling.? I opened the gas cap and there was some pressure release (but not as much as in prior years before this modification).? In about a minute everything was OK again, and the rest of the trip was uneventful.? There was no smell of gasoline in the engine compartment, nor around the gas cap.

I could not tell whether I had a loose connection to the vapor canister or the gas fumes were venting from some other location.

As I understand it, the entire fuel system is supposed to remain sealed normally.? But I assume there must be a pressure release mechanism in case of overpressure, right?? If there is an overpressure vent, where is it located?? Is it possible that even in a perfectly functional eurovan, extremes of temperature + altitude could overwhelm the vapor canister and cause venting?


> On Jul 3, 2022, at 2:11 PM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
>
> I'm back from another trip, and happy to report the canister replacement is working great.? I've driven about 750 miles with it, and done two stress tests:? where I drove from sea level to 5000' elevation in 95F temps, and another where I drove to 5000' in about 100F temps, filled up with gas, and immediately drove up to 7500'.?
>
> In the past, these situations would have resulted in tons of gasoline fumes, but with the 215-464 canister, it behaved normally.?
>
> I'm going to call this a "reliable" fix so far.
>
>
>
>







Re: Retrofit GM 215-464 Vapor Canister to 1997-2000 Eurovan

 

I'm downgrading this from "reliable" to "mostly reliable":

I'm back from a longer more challenging trip and have mostly success to report, but one failure: After a multi hour drive in temperatures that hit 108F at one point, I filled up with gas at around 4000' elevation, and then drove another 60 miles (in 100F+ temperatures) and ended the drive with final quick uphill to 7500' over about 10 miles. When I stopped the van there was a strong smell of gas, and fumes were escaping from under the van, near the gas tank and my GM vapor canister. There were also gurgling noises, as if the gas in the tank were boiling. I opened the gas cap and there was some pressure release (but not as much as in prior years before this modification). In about a minute everything was OK again, and the rest of the trip was uneventful. There was no smell of gasoline in the engine compartment, nor around the gas cap.

I could not tell whether I had a loose connection to the vapor canister or the gas fumes were venting from some other location.

As I understand it, the entire fuel system is supposed to remain sealed normally. But I assume there must be a pressure release mechanism in case of overpressure, right? If there is an overpressure vent, where is it located? Is it possible that even in a perfectly functional eurovan, extremes of temperature + altitude could overwhelm the vapor canister and cause venting?

On Jul 3, 2022, at 2:11 PM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:

I'm back from another trip, and happy to report the canister replacement is working great. I've driven about 750 miles with it, and done two stress tests: where I drove from sea level to 5000' elevation in 95F temps, and another where I drove to 5000' in about 100F temps, filled up with gas, and immediately drove up to 7500'.

In the past, these situations would have resulted in tons of gasoline fumes, but with the 215-464 canister, it behaved normally.

I'm going to call this a "reliable" fix so far.




Re: Serpentine, TIming Belt and Water Pump Swap in a 1995 EVC

 

That’s a great write up. As well as the previous documentation on the other work and upgrades.

I have the same year with 306K and thinking it’s time for a drop down or leak test on the engine. Still gets 16-18 mpg and cruises highway with No problem. But the hills are getting down to third gear.

On Thu, Jul 21, 2022 at 4:56 PM coastielfs <lfsiegle@...> wrote:
Very nice writeup & pictures!!

On Thu, Jul 21, 2022 at 1:21 PM me <bbuja@...> wrote:
I just finished up replacing the drive belts, idler/tensioner pulleys and the water pump in my 1995 EVC. I put together a detailed write-up of the process complete with a large selection of images to document the work involved.

Take a look at it here:

Ben Buja
SF, CA


Re: Serpentine, TIming Belt and Water Pump Swap in a 1995 EVC

 

Very nice writeup & pictures!!


On Thu, Jul 21, 2022 at 1:21 PM me <bbuja@...> wrote:
I just finished up replacing the drive belts, idler/tensioner pulleys and the water pump in my 1995 EVC. I put together a detailed write-up of the process complete with a large selection of images to document the work involved.

Take a look at it here:

Ben Buja
SF, CA


Serpentine, TIming Belt and Water Pump Swap in a 1995 EVC

 

I just finished up replacing the drive belts, idler/tensioner pulleys and the water pump in my 1995 EVC. I put together a detailed write-up of the process complete with a large selection of images to document the work involved.

Take a look at it here:

Ben Buja
SF, CA


Re: Need 16” tire recommendation

 

开云体育

I have 16 inch Michelin Defenders on my rig. I tried Nokians but they didn’t last long. After I ordered my Michelins the tire shop started to carry them. 0

OK, . Not big enough for a rig but big enough for me.

?

?

Chandler 97 EVC soon to be for sale, maybe

?

?

Sent from for Windows

?


2002 Eurovan Camper Fog Lights #electrical

 

Noticed for the first time the other day that our?2002 Eurovan Camper has Fog Lights but found they were inoperable. ?The are located low and inside the bumper below the headlights (see photo). ?Had to install new H3 bulbs and fashioned a jumper wire for the ground connection. ?You have to lie under the bumper and you will see a 2 pin connector that can be removed by squeezing the spring wire locking device (no need to remove the spring wire locking device from the connector). ?Next is the hard part, there is a cover that is only held on by being tight on the connector. Put a screw driver under the cover and alternately pry on each side until you think it will break and it will finally pop off. ?Next a quarter turn twist of the housing and pull it off. ?Install an H3 bulb (which has a little tail wire and connector) under the wire bales, then install the negative ground jumper wire if not present. I did not realize that the jumper wire was required to connect the negative ground to the housing that holds the bulb in, so after replacing the missing bulbs nothing still worked. ?I made up my own jumper wire with a short piece of yellow wire with a male connector on one and and female connector on the other. The tuck the wires inside the housing, install with a quarter turn, the push on the outer cover and reconnect the 2 pin connector.


2000 Eurovan full camper for sale

Craig Madden
 
Edited

Hi all,

We're moving out of the country at the end of the year and are selling our 2000 VW Eurovan.

The price is $31,500 and we're in Portland, Oregon.

Full listing can be found on The Samba here:
- 183,000 miles
- New Bus Depot pop top canvas (yellow)
- New pop top struts
- Fiamma 45s awning
- Yakima 3-bike hitch rack
- GoWesty van cover - never used
- All windows have curtains/shades
- Custom made camper blackout screens
- New headliner
- Rear door insect screen
- Telescoping upper-bunk ladder
- New foam in all mattresses
- GoWesty 2" memory foam mattress topper
- GoWesty 16" tires and lift kit - great clearance!
- New Boss radio with Bluetooth 5.2
- Yakima Roof rack with kayak saddles
- GoWesty external roof storage bag
- Road Shower 4 solar water heater shower, with privacy tent

We also have a Thetford portable toilet available you can have. (barely used)


Re: Broken down in Petoskey MI

 

All Eurovans are T4’s, but not all T4’s are Eurovans. Eurovan refers specifically to a North American market T4. There were numerous drive train and body configurations available in Europe that were never sold here, so it is not uncommon for a part intended for the European T4 market not to fit a Eurovan.

Ron Salmon
The Bus Depot Inc.
BusDepot.com


Re: Broken down in Petoskey MI

 

开云体育

All Eurovans are T4's, in the USA. In other parts of the world there are T-5's, T-6's.


On Jul 5, 2022, at 3:19 PM, moedig <maurice@...> wrote:

?

Yes T4 is the designation for “Transporter”.? “4” is the generation.? The friendly name is called the “Eurovan”? ?