Re: Difficulty starting when warm
When my 03 Jetta became hard to start, it turned out to be the engine speed sensor. ?Fairly easy to replace on the 24v vr6
I would also be suspicious of the cam position sensor. The ecu uses it to fire plugs?
This is the case where the VcDs software pays off?
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On Jul 4, 2021, at 11:08 AM, Big C via groups.io <k_kodiak1@...> wrote:
?Morning, John,
There's a myriad of reasons what causes a hard start after an engine is warmed up. I suggest you document the issue well (length of drive, where you go (elevation), time of day, ambient temp, who touched your vehicle last and what if anything was replaced or "fixed" on your van etc), save your money, then call around to find a real automotive diagnostician who knows how to use a scope (Pico) and a scan tool (Snap-On, Autel, eScan etc), and then review your documentation with that tech -- because that's the only way you're going to get your hard starting issued resolved properly. Of course, a diag tech with VW experience would be preferable...but not absolutely necessary.
Regarding your "tried giving it no gas while cranking and lots of gas, but that doesn't seem to make any difference": That's because your van has a fuel injection system. Those systems don't prime the fuel system with the gas pedal. :-)
P.S. Your local VW "repair" shop may be good at changing and wrenching parts...but playing parts darts by changing an air filter for a complaint of a hard start when the engine is already hot -- with no other drivability issues? Absurd.
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Re: Sleeping pad for downstairs
as recommended by Paula and Michael
(get the Medium Double size, which is 41x72 inches.)
I had my standard downstairs cushions thickened by an extra inch a few years back.
Jonathan 1999 EVC
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On Sunday, July 4, 2021, 10:08:51 AM PDT, sawodey1 <awodey@...> wrote:
Anyone have recommendations for the weekender downstairs?
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Re: Difficulty starting when warm
Morning, John,
There's a myriad of reasons what causes a hard start after an engine is warmed up. I suggest you document the issue well (length of drive, where you go (elevation), time of day, ambient temp, who touched your vehicle last and what if anything was replaced or "fixed" on your van etc), save your money, then call around to find a real automotive diagnostician who knows how to use a scope (Pico) and a scan tool (Snap-On, Autel, eScan etc), and then review your documentation with that tech -- because that's the only way you're going to get your hard starting issued resolved properly. Of course, a diag tech with VW experience would be preferable...but not absolutely necessary.
Regarding your "tried giving it no gas while cranking and lots of gas, but that doesn't seem to make any difference": That's because your van has a fuel injection system. Those systems don't prime the fuel system with the gas pedal. :-)
P.S. Your local VW "repair" shop may be good at changing and wrenching parts...but playing parts darts by changing an air filter for a complaint of a hard start when the engine is already hot -- with no other drivability issues? Absurd.
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Re: Sleeping pad for downstairs
Anyone have recommendations for the weekender downstairs?
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Difficulty starting when warm
After years of flawless starting, our 2002 Weekender has recently started to be difficult to start once its been run for a while. ?No problem at all when starting when cold, but when warmed up the starter needs to be cranked for a long time before it catches, or several cranking attempts are needed. ?I've tried giving it no gas while cranking and lots of gas, but that doesn't seem to make any difference.
Our local VW repair shop tried changing the air filter, but that made no difference. ?Does anyone have any suggestions on what to try next?
Many thanks,
John
Vancouver Island
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Re: Sleeping pad for downstairs
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On 07/03/2021 2:09 PM Michael Diehr <
md03@...> wrote:
?
?
After years of uncomfortable sleep in the downstairs bed in our 2000 Eurovan full camper, we had tried all sorts of solutions, such as supplementing with Z-lite pads, backpacker inflatable pads, etc. Nothing really worked and the extra layers and bulk were always frustrating to deal with.
?
So, this summer we decided to splurge and purchased the Exped MegaMat Duo 10 (Medium Double) size, and used it as the only sleep surface (e.g. we removed the existing pads and left them at home).
?
The megaMat is a perfect size for the Winnebago full camper bottom bunk, very comfortable and warm. It's mostly self inflating, comes with a little hand pump to adjust the pressure, and easy to deflate. It has two valves (one for inflate, one for deflate). When the bed is not in use you can just fold the mat in half (leaving sheets/blankets in place) and it stores nicely in the trunk area with the bench seat in seating mode.
?
When deflated, it's also quite a bit thinner than the stock foam pads, so you end up with more cargo space in the trunk area as an added bonus.
?
The only downside is the price, but I think this is a quality product worth the $$$. Highly recommend.
?
(get the Medium Double size, which is 41x72 inches.)
?
?
?
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Re: Sleeping pad for downstairs
After years of uncomfortable sleep in the downstairs bed in our 2000 Eurovan full camper, we had tried all sorts of solutions, such as supplementing with Z-lite pads, backpacker inflatable pads, etc. Nothing really worked and the extra layers and bulk were always frustrating to deal with.
So, this summer we decided to splurge and purchased the Exped MegaMat Duo 10 (Medium Double) size, and used it as the only sleep surface (e.g. we removed the existing pads and left them at home).
The megaMat is a perfect size for the Winnebago full camper bottom bunk, very comfortable and warm. It's mostly self inflating, comes with a little hand pump to adjust the pressure, and easy to deflate. It has two valves (one for inflate, one for deflate). When the bed is not in use you can just fold the mat in half (leaving sheets/blankets in place) and it stores nicely in the trunk area with the bench seat in seating mode.
When deflated, it's also quite a bit thinner than the stock foam pads, so you end up with more cargo space in the trunk area as an added bonus.
The only downside is the price, but I think this is a quality product worth the $$$. Highly recommend.
(get the Medium Double size, which is 41x72 inches.)
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?jtl6999, can I ask where you found a quiet stainless steel system? I am trying to find one for my 2002 Eurovan MV and was told that?Techtonics is noisy ("performance" system). Thanks!
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'97 Eurovan full Camper with 5 speed manual transmission and VR6 for sale
I recently had the transmission converted and decided to sell our camper after a recent trip from NC to AZ that put the burden of sole driver on my shoulders. My wife never learned how to drive a manual and we've always split driving, 2 hours on, 2 off. ?It is listed here on?
It has high mileage but all of it was from trips, the van was never used on a daily basis.
It includes lost of extras we kept inside such as charcoal grill, portable toilet, pots and pans, silverware, linens, towels, leveling blocks.
Ron
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Re: ISO 5 speed manual tranny for 95 EVC
I have a manual transmission in Mobile AL
On Friday, June 25, 2021, 04:42:40 PM CDT, Keith Simpson <ksimp@...> wrote:
Got a problem with my transmission.? Looking for a replacement.? TIA
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Re: ISO 5 speed manual tranny for 95 EVC
Everyone talks about German Transaxle in Bend Oregon I think.?
Good luck?
On Fri, Jun 25, 2021 at 5:42 PM Keith Simpson < ksimp@...> wrote: Got a problem with my transmission.? Looking for a replacement.? TIA
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ISO 5 speed manual tranny for 95 EVC
Got a problem with my transmission.? Looking for a replacement.? TIA
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Re: Wanted: Evap Carbon Canister for 2000 Eurovan
More details from several of the Rialta-Tech members, including a nice photo album showing the details: /g/Rialta-Tech/album?id=265381"An alternative to repairing the no-longer-available charcoal vapor canister is to replace it with a currently available canister mounted in the battery compartment. I purchased a Standard CP1022 canister, because of its size and because it can be easily mounted vertically, and mounted it in the battery compartment. To bring the gas tank vent line up to the new canister I disconnected the tubing from the original canister (10mm vent tubing and 8mm purge valve tubing), located in the driver¡¯s side front wheel well on my 2000 FD, and joined them together, which extended the gas tank vent line up to the engine compartment. The original 8mm tubing to the purge valve (N80) in the engine compartment is now the new gas tank vent tubing, which has to be connected to the input of the new canister, located in the battery compartment. Rubber fuel hose from the vent tubing to the canister input, and from the canister output to the purge valve (N80) completes the hookup." "...be sure to have tight connections for this hookup, particularly at the hose transitions. If you plan to use the Standard CP1022 canister be aware that the input port is 8mm (5/16¡±) and the output port is 6mm (1/4¡±). I¡¯ve added a photo album: ¡°Charcoal Canister Replacement - 2000 Rialta¡±, which includes a hastily drawn diagram of the system."
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Re: Wanted: Evap Carbon Canister for 2000 Eurovan
Thanks David - that's a very clever solution: it uses a commodity part and is non destructive, as it re-uses the existing hoses, simply adding some new ones.
Any concern with relocating the vapor canister next to the battery in the engine compartment (possibly increased fire danger?) To be fair, the existing location behind the front left tire isn't great as it's subject to damage from road debris, tire blow-out etc.
Question: when the system gets clogged and is venting fumes, is it venting from the canister or some other location? Is there an overpressure vent on the fuel tank? I haven't been able to figure that out.
Mike
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On Jun 22, 2021, at 4:17 PM, David <dsh1705@...> wrote:
From the Rialta-Tech groups.io group: /g/Rialta-Tech/topic/charcoal_canister_replacement/83717283
¡°An alternative to repairing the no-longer-available charcoal vapor canister is to replace it with a currently available canister mounted in the battery compartment.
I purchased a Standard CP1022 canister, because of its size and because it can be easily mounted vertically, and mounted it in the battery compartment. To bring the gas tank vent line up to the new canister I disconnected the tubing from the original canister (10mm vent tubing and 8mm purge valve tubing), located in the driver¡¯s side front wheel well on my 2000 FD, and joined them together, which extended the gas tank vent line up to the engine compartment. The original 8mm tubing to the purge valve (N80) in the engine compartment is now the new gas tank vent tubing, which has to be connected to the input of the new canister, located in the battery compartment. Rubber fuel hose from the vent tubing to the canister input, and from the canister output to the purge valve (N80) completes the hookup.¡±
--
David
1705.net
95 EVG(lamper)
Seattle, WA
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Hey Moedig, not sure why folks are talking about ATF and temps when your concern is with the final drive.?
I don¡¯t see how this is your fault in any way. The oil would have to leak out or get sucked out, or not have been there in the first place. None of those 3 scenarios apply to you. 6k miles is not acceptable and they should stand behind their work. Amazing that it went 6k without gear oil.?
Maybe put your request to them in writing and consider the BBB and online reviews if they do not own up to it.?
?
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Re: Wanted: Evap Carbon Canister for 2000 Eurovan
From the Rialta-Tech groups.io group:? /g/Rialta-Tech/topic/charcoal_canister_replacement/83717283¡°An alternative to repairing the no-longer-available charcoal vapor canister is to replace it with a currently available canister mounted in the battery compartment.I purchased a Standard CP1022 canister, because of its size and because it can be easily mounted vertically, and mounted it in the battery compartment. To bring the gas tank vent line up to the new canister I disconnected the tubing from the original canister (10mm vent tubing and 8mm purge valve tubing), located in the driver¡¯s side front wheel well on my 2000 FD, and joined them together, which extended the gas tank vent line up to the engine compartment. The original 8mm tubing to the purge valve (N80) in the engine compartment is now the new gas tank vent tubing, which has to be connected to the input of the new canister, located in the battery compartment. Rubber fuel hose from the vent tubing to the canister input, and from the canister output to the purge valve (N80) completes the hookup.¡±
--
David
1705.net
95 EVG(lamper)
Seattle, WA
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Re: Wanted: Evap Carbon Canister for 2000 Eurovan
Some combination of both, I suspect. There's no functional difference between making stuff ourselves and a third party component manufacturer, only one of volume.? I don't think Covid has anything to do with it - they just stopped making them and won't be making any more. Some component manufacturer must have the original drawings but goodness knows how we can find them.
Many parts on the van can be replaced with generics - the fridge, tension belts, tires, bulbs, etc., so we are good there but there is some stuff that cannot and that includes the complex plastic shapes like the evap canister, which are basically designed to 'fit in available space'.
3d printing has just about reached the stage where is is viable to print a replacement of these plastic parts. I'll try making a copy of my '99 EVC evap can at some point if I can't find a broken one to copy.? Maybe I'll add a threaded cap to facilitate the kind of refurbishment that Burton described in this thread.
Once a CAD file has been created - like this drier knob that always breaks on my GE drier - it can be printed anywhere and I'm sure low volume 3D printing shops will start springing up so you can get a part 3d printed in your own locality.
I think it would be great if this group could create a library of CAD files for items that are otherwise unobtainable.
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On Monday, June 21, 2021, 6:48:33 PM PDT, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote: Jonathan, I agree with and echo your sentiment. I wonder, is this: * A: the end of the line for parts for our dear Eurovans, and we have to start making them ourselves or abandoning the vehicles if we can't? * B: simply the normal events when a discontinued model hits 20 years of age, and we just need to wait a bit for 3rd party manufacturers to start making parts soon? * C: either A or B, but possibly worsened by covid-supply-related issues? On Jun 18, 2021, at 1:24 PM, Jonathan Mackenzie via groups.io <jonathanmackenzie@...> wrote:
It is concerning that we are running out of some crucial spare parts for Eurovans. I can think of two ways we can address this. One is to find functionally equivalent generic parts and adapt them to the Eurovan, the other is to 3D print and/or machine an exact replacement.
Both require some work, and I'm happy to participate as I have just semi-retired. If someone can get a broken or worn out evap carbon canister to me (95252), I can refund the postage and make it my first project.
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Re: Wanted: Evap Carbon Canister for 2000 Eurovan
If it were my rig and couldn't get a replacement I would try this:
1, Look up on line for a x ray view (Often called Phantom view) of the internal layout.:
2 Remove unit.
3) Drill a starter hole where the charcoal is.
4) Expand hole to 1/2 inch.
5) Shake out all old charcoal.into a glass jar.
6) Go to Walmart pet dept and buy a bag of activated charcoal used for aquarium filters.
7) add new charcoal (the same amount as what you took out.)
8)Over the hol,e use some kind of screen mesh as a scaffold.? Use a few drops of Crazy glue to locate the screen over the hole.
9) Use some epoxy over the mesh with the old hole facing up.? So the charcoal rests below the fix.
10) After the epoxy sets, re-install the canister.
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Re: Wanted: Evap Carbon Canister for 2000 Eurovan
Jonathan, I agree with and echo your sentiment.
I wonder, is this:
* A: the end of the line for parts for our dear Eurovans, and we have to start making them ourselves or abandoning the vehicles if we can't?
* B: simply the normal events when a discontinued model hits 20 years of age, and we just need to wait a bit for 3rd party manufacturers to start making parts soon?
* C: either A or B, but possibly worsened by covid-supply-related issues?
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On Jun 18, 2021, at 1:24 PM, Jonathan Mackenzie via groups.io <jonathanmackenzie@...> wrote:
It is concerning that we are running out of some crucial spare parts for Eurovans. I can think of two ways we can address this. One is to find functionally equivalent generic parts and adapt them to the Eurovan, the other is to 3D print and/or machine an exact replacement.
Both require some work, and I'm happy to participate as I have just semi-retired. If someone can get a broken or worn out evap carbon canister to me (95252), I can refund the postage and make it my first project.
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Re: Wanted: Evap Carbon Canister for 2000 Eurovan
On eBay right how I see one vapor canister for the 1993-1995 yearl, several for the 2001-2003, but zero for the 1997-2000 year Eurovans.
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On Jun 18, 2021, at 4:43 PM, sam letzring <sletz@...> wrote:
There are some available right now on E-bay!
Sam
02 EVC
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Craig
Vanny 2
David