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Re: Norcold not cooling well on LP #Norcold

 
Edited

Carl, thank you for your thorough description! ?I¡¯m going to have to hope I can find a shop willing to take this on. ?Your description & photos will help immensely.?

Do you have a photo of your fridge enclosure which shows those two bracket bolts? ?I remember seeing the single large bolt on the left side of the enclosure (over which I had to lift the fridge frame when pulling the fridge out), but not a pair of bolts. And though I shot several pics of my fridge and burner box before reinstalling the fridge, I neglected to photograph the empty enclosure. ?

David
2002 EVC

p.s. ?Wow, this is a lot of work to replace a $30 part which must be replaced periodically - what was Winnebago thinking??


Re: Norcold not cooling well on LP #Norcold

 

I've got my 2001 EVC propane system apart at the moment.

There are four screws that attach the regulator to the bracket.? You need to remove those to remove the regulator.
The plastic cover on mine also has a small screw holding it closed, which can only be accessed when the regulator and cover are removed from the bracket.
The hoses can be disconnected from the regulator once it's off the bracket, or they could be disconnected at their other ends.

You are going to have a much easier time of it if you remove the bracket from the van with the regulator still attached.?
But this means disconnecting the LP line and gauge leads from the LP tank, then removing the tank.? Then inside the van, you'll need to pull the refrigerator to get access to the two bolts that attach the bracket to the van.? The bolts can be loosened from above.? I mistakenly thought that I could loosen the nuts from below, only to find that the nuts are spot-welded onto the bracket (well, they were...).? By the way, the bracket had some grey butyl tape presumably used as a weather seal between it and the van floor.? I will replace it with something similar when I finally put everything back together (look up KST Coating Black Butyl Tape 2" x 42").

While I had everything apart, I had the brackets sandblasted, primed and painted, then I also sprayed Duplicolor black Rockerguard on them.

Not an easy job just replacing the regulator...one thing will lead to another.


Re: Objet : [eurovanupdate] Norcold not cooling well on LP #Norcold

 

Yves, I¡¯ve read that you should NOT disassemble part #4. The left portion of #4 is the burner orifice. Perhaps someone else can recall why we¡¯re told to leave #4 as is, but I assume there¡¯s a reason Norcold sells the burner/orifice combination as a single pre-assembled part.

David
2002 EVC


Re: Transmission Woes

 

The original owners manual for my 99 HD Rilata staets Sealed for life or 10K "unless heavy duty." Then every 30K.? If fluid breaks down it gummies up the valve body.? Often ,a change of fluid cleans it up.
Buy Valvoline Max ATF at walmart.? Much cheaper and just as good.? Been working for me over the last 150K miles.? I used to chnage it every other year.? Now I downshift on long grades instead of staying in D4.? tranny runs much cooler so I haven't changed it for the last 3 years.

Burt Rialta 99 HD original owner


Re: EVC Solar Power 2021

 

If while driving you are not getting a chage (while the SG reds a chaging volatge) its becuase of teh failed Isolation relay contacts.

To test:? Idle engine
Access the coach battery.? It should read a charge voltage over 13V.?? If not, use a voltmeter.? If the isolation relay is working and energized, you should get the same voltage reading? (give or take a few MV)? at both HEAVY terminals front and back of the relay.Most of the legislation relay failures are dirty worn contacts.

To test Lead batteries before they are condemned.?
1) Use a load tester.? First isiolate the batteries.
2) AT HOME: After a 24 hour shore power charge, of 13,8 its charged.? If lower say 13.5V, it means they are still sagging the converter with high charge current.? Wit no battery l;oads on and still pon SP if the battery os 13.8 its fully chaged.

Then, isolate the batteries and wait at least 24 hours. A few days are better.? A good new battery would read unloaded isolated 12.6 to 12.7V? A worn but still good battery might read as low 12.4.? Below that, discard the battery.?


Objet : [eurovanupdate] Norcold not cooling well on LP #Norcold

Yves Desilets
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks a lot, David !! That would help me do it this Summer !!!

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Yves ?

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Provenance?: pour Windows 10

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De?: David Horner
Envoy¨¦ le?:5 juin 2021 09:38
??: [email protected]
Objet?:Re: [eurovanupdate] Norcold not cooling well on LP #Norcold

?

Yves, the part I think you're concerned about is the Norcold burner grommet, part number 617996. ?I found it at Amazon and The Norcold Guy. ?FYI, the smaller, thermocouple grommet is part number 617997. ?

?


Objet : [eurovanupdate] Norcold not cooling well on LP #Norcold

Yves Desilets
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

David,

?

Last question about the Norcold burner. Is it possible to unscrew the sleeve at the end of the burner ( # 4 part on the picture here) ? If so, it would be easier to slip the burner out without damaging the grommet !!! I¡¯ve thought about filing the nut¡¯s edges a git so it could be slipped out without disassembling that part....

?

Yves

?

Provenance?: pour Windows 10

?

De?: David Horner
Envoy¨¦ le?:5 juin 2021 09:38
??: [email protected]
Objet?:Re: [eurovanupdate] Norcold not cooling well on LP #Norcold

?

Yves, the part I think you're concerned about is the Norcold burner grommet, part number 617996. ?I found it at Amazon and The Norcold Guy. ?FYI, the smaller, thermocouple grommet is part number 617997. ?

?


Re: Norcold not cooling well on LP #Norcold

 

On 2001-2003 EVCs the regulator is attached in front of the LP tank, rather than aft. ?I've attached a pic of what I'm seeing from the ground, looking back and up at the bracket. ?It looks like the first steps would be to remove the angled metal shield, and then the plastic cover. ?After that, then what? ?Can I remove the regulator at this point? ?I can feel two screws on the back plate which?may?be the regulator mounting screws, but I can't get my hand up behind the upper part of the back plate to feel for more screws. ?The clearances are so tight that it looks like the regulator will have to be removed from the bracket before the hoses can be disconnected. ?And I think I'll need a lift or an auto ramp to do any of this. ? (Thanks, Winnebago.) ?


Re: EVC Solar Power 2021

Phil
 

Michael
i should have mentioned, I have the standard lead acid battery, not a LFP. ?As an example, my wife and I just finished a straight through 1100 mile trip and upon arrival my house battery was charged to only 62%. ?The alternator range was fine (I monitor it with a Scanguage). The solar panel in this case would have not been charging the battery much at all while driving since it was cloudy or raining for almost the entire trip. My engine battery seemed fine as usual. ?This would indicate to me either my house battery is failing or the MPPT is blocking the alternator from charging the battery. I¡¯m in Florida, and ordinarily the 100 watt solar panel charges the house battery fine, thus masking this issue. ?When I lived in cloudy Pennsylvania it would have been, but I never noticed the issue. ?I do wish I had invested in Lithium way back but it¡¯s hard to justify that with 290 kmi. on the van, even though it¡¯s doing well.
Thanks for the info. I had not heard that, but glad to hear they are not an issue in case I do go Lithium.
Phil B EV WE 290kmi


Re: Norcold not cooling well on LP #Norcold

 

Easy to do on your own. Order of go West placement regulator it'll take you about 20 minutes


On Fri, Jun 4, 2021, 10:21 PM David Horner <dahorner@...> wrote:
OK, another question.? It seems that my best bet might be to replace my LP regulator.? It's 19 years old and should probably have been replaced long ago anyway.? But... how difficult is it to remove & replace the LP regulator on a 2002 EVC?? So far I've been unsuccessful finding a local RV shop willing to work on it. ?(I"m hoping that's because it's the busy season and they don't need the work rather than because they don't want to get near a Eurovan Camper.) ?On 2001-2003 EVCs the regulator sits in front of the LP tank, surrounded by some brackets & a shield, and to this relatively non-handy person it looks like a rather formidable task to remove all that stuff, especially since (1) I don't know what I'm going to find when I do, (2) it's underneath the vehicle, (3) the bolts are unlikely to come loose easily and (4) I don't have a how-to guide like the page that helped me through replacing the burner.? Does anyone have photos and/or a step-by-step procedure they're willing to share?? Or know of a shop within an hour or two of Chicago that might be willing to do this?

David
2002 EVC


Re: Norcold not cooling well on LP #Norcold

 

Yves, I think you're referring to the orange ring that creates the seal between the burner tube and the burner box (rather than the gasket which creates a seal between the box and the lid). ?On my burner box the orange ring was flexible enough to pull the burner out & put the new one in without damaging the ring. ??

David
2002 EVC


Re: Norcold not cooling well on LP #Norcold

 
Edited

OK, another question. ?It seems that my best bet might be to replace my LP regulator. ?It's 19 years old and should probably have been replaced long ago anyway. ?But... how difficult is it to remove & replace the LP regulator on a 2002 EVC? ? On 2001-2003 EVCs the regulator sits in front of the LP tank, surrounded by some brackets & a shield, and to this relatively non-handy person it looks like a rather formidable task to remove all that stuff, especially since (1) I don't know what I'm going to find when I do, (2) it's underneath the vehicle, (3) the bolts are unlikely to come loose easily and (4) I don't have a how-to guide like the page that helped me through replacing the burner. ?Does anyone have photos and/or a step-by-step procedure they're willing to share? ?Or know of a shop within an hour or two of Chicago that might be willing to do this?

David
2002 EVC


Re: Noisy engine-

 

check your motor mounts first... just in case....


On Fri, Jun 4, 2021, 3:37 PM Paula Hyman <paula.hyman@...> wrote:

Suddenly the engine on my 2001 EVC is very loud. There have been many catalytic converters stolen here lately and I¡¯m wondering if that just happened to me. I looked under the van but didn¡¯t see anything obviously wrong. Could someone tell me what I should look for? Also it could be a muffler.?

I appreciate any help with is problem.?


Paula
2001 EVC
Oakland, CA


Re: EVC Solar Power 2021

 

Steve, can you say more about the BMV / Cyrix setup?

Phil, I'm also not sure I understand what you are seeing, where you said "my MPPT has interfered with my Auxiliary Battery charging off the alternator"

There are a couple of LFP battery cautions (which I might call "myths") out there:

1. you can't charge a LiFePO4 battery from an alternator, because it will kill the alternator.
Victron has warning about this. I think this may be true if you have a totally empty LFP battery pack (multiple batteries) and hook it with a massive cable to a standard car alternator, and charge it at idle. The alternator will overheat and die in that situation. But generally, none of these are true - Eurovans have only 1 house battery, the wiring is small (which reduces charge amps) and most people don't idle their vans for hours.

2. alternator charging will never fully charge a LFP battery.
This one is more true, but not that important, assuming you have a solar system. Even if your alternator only charges the LFP to 80% (say), when you stop driving, your solar system will finish the job.

On Jun 1, 2021, at 7:58 AM, Steve via groups.io <seaweedsteve@...> wrote:

Phil. I'm not clear on how the Solar regulator is working at all charging from the alternator in your setup. I contemplated running mine through the panel inputs but learned (on the Victron forums I believe) that it will not work. Are you actually using the MPPT to manage charging your house battery off of the alternator? Are you saying that you do have the alternator output feeding into the MPPT's panel inputs?

Again, my understanding is that this cannot work unless the charging source voltage (panels or alternator) is x volts (is it 5?) above the voltage needed to charge the house battery. If this is what you are doing, then I'm ignorant as to how it works at all!

For me and most if not all installations, you connect your starter battery (effectively the alternator) to a relay and then when the relay is triggered to close, it connects the two batteres together. The higher voltage the starter battery is getting from the alternator charges the house battery. The Solar MPPT is not in the loop.

The only control really needed is to disconnect the batteries when the engine is not running.

As I said, I use the Cyrix triggered off of the BMV relay wire. I also have the relay monitoring the starter battery voltage as it arrives to the relay. Then I set up rules in the BMV software to power or close the relay when it sees say 13.6 volts from the starter battery. And to open if the power exceeds 14.2 to keep from over charging. If I remember right !

There are many possible permutations using the rules, though I wish we could get a more sophisticated rule system, it's useful.

Now, there is typical a case I know of where the device charging your house battery does double duty as a solar input as well. That would be when using DC to DC chargers that also have an input for solar.

Also, I have a note (probably from Victron forums) that the Victron MPPT WILL work as a DC to DC charger if you are charging a 12v nominal off of a 24v nominal system. So, again, it's all about the voltage difference. 12v to 12v (or 14.5 to 13.5+ is not enough difference for the MPPT to work. 12v nominal panels put out closer to 20 v.


Re: Noisy engine-

 

Will do as soon as I have someone todo it with. Sounds like a great idea!

On 06/04/2021 3:49 PM Fred via groups.io <fnewell19@...> wrote:
?
?
?
Take a leaf blower or exhaust of a shop vac and have someone blow air into the exhaust pipe end. ?Then you or someone who's interested lay on the ground, and feel around the exhaust system. ?If there's a leak, you will feel it without ?having to run the engine and burning your hand or risking injury due to moving parts. ?That may answer your question.
?
?
?
On Friday, June 4, 2021, 3:37:15 PM PDT, Paula Hyman <paula.hyman@...> wrote:
?
?

Suddenly the engine on my 2001 EVC is very loud. There have been many catalytic converters stolen here lately and I¡¯m wondering if that just happened to me. I looked under the van but didn¡¯t see anything obviously wrong. Could someone tell me what I should look for? Also it could be a muffler.?

I appreciate any help with is problem.?


Paula
2001 EVC
Oakland, CA


Re: Noisy engine-

 

Thanks. I¡¯ll check. I do think Imsaw what you are describing.

On 06/04/2021 3:46 PM Jonathan Mackenzie via groups.io <jonathanmackenzie@...> wrote:


Just looked on mine - the cat should be a big round thing under the passenger seat with a heat shield under it.






On Friday, June 4, 2021, 3:37:15 PM PDT, Paula Hyman <paula.hyman@...> wrote:





Suddenly the engine on my 2001 EVC is very loud. There have been many catalytic converters stolen here lately and I¡¯m wondering if that just happened to me. I looked under the van but didn¡¯t see anything obviously wrong. Could someone tell me what I should look for? Also it could be a muffler.?

I appreciate any help with is problem.?


Paula
2001 EVC
Oakland, CA






Re: Noisy engine-

 

Take a leaf blower or exhaust of a shop vac and have someone blow air into the exhaust pipe end. ?Then you or someone who's interested lay on the ground, and feel around the exhaust system. ?If there's a leak, you will feel it without ?having to run the engine and burning your hand or risking injury due to moving parts. ?That may answer your question.



On Friday, June 4, 2021, 3:37:15 PM PDT, Paula Hyman <paula.hyman@...> wrote:


Suddenly the engine on my 2001 EVC is very loud. There have been many catalytic converters stolen here lately and I¡¯m wondering if that just happened to me. I looked under the van but didn¡¯t see anything obviously wrong. Could someone tell me what I should look for? Also it could be a muffler.?

I appreciate any help with is problem.?


Paula
2001 EVC
Oakland, CA


Re: Noisy engine-

 

Just looked on mine - the cat should be a big round thing under the passenger seat with a heat shield under it.

On Friday, June 4, 2021, 3:37:15 PM PDT, Paula Hyman <paula.hyman@...> wrote:





Suddenly the engine on my 2001 EVC is very loud. There have been many catalytic converters stolen here lately and I¡¯m wondering if that just happened to me. I looked under the van but didn¡¯t see anything obviously wrong. Could someone tell me what I should look for? Also it could be a muffler.?

I appreciate any help with is problem.?


Paula
2001 EVC
Oakland, CA


Noisy engine-

 

Suddenly the engine on my 2001 EVC is very loud. There have been many catalytic converters stolen here lately and I¡¯m wondering if that just happened to me. I looked under the van but didn¡¯t see anything obviously wrong. Could someone tell me what I should look for? Also it could be a muffler.?

I appreciate any help with is problem.?


Paula
2001 EVC
Oakland, CA


Re: Nokian Entyre 2.0 Availability

mma2
 

My 2002 EVC has a Winnebago sticker on the inside of the upper mirrored cabinet that lists Frt/Rear tire pressures as 49 psi/49 psi.? Same is repeated in the Winnebago manual specifications, with the details that the recommended tire size is 225/60 with a load rating of 102 on 16"x7" rims.? The issue for me is that the Nokian Entyre 2.0 in this size lists a cold tire pressure of 51 psi.? So I have been running them at 46 psi as a compromise.?