Re: Adding a Second Coach Battery
Michael Diehr wrote: Lead acids do vent nasty stuff - hydrogen gas (explosive) and sulfuric acid vapor (toxic, corrosive). ?Ventilation is required.
Have you considered upgrading to a Lithium battery? ? They are much more expensive in initial purchase, and can't be charged at temperatures below freezing, but on pretty much every other metric they are vastly superior to lead acid batteries and will probably outlive the van. ? One Lithium battery will outperform two lead acids, and they don't require any ventilation, etc. Time for my battery rant. :-) In the best-case scenario, lithiums can be pretty good. But frankly, that's true for lead-acids as well. Energy storage: Lithiums have about twice the energy storage per pound as lead-acids. But they occupy about the same physical space for the same energy storage. So a 12v 100ah battery is about the same size, whether lithium or lead-acid... the lead-acid just weighs more. Safety: Lithium batteries BURN! The failure modes in lithium batteries can easily start a fire; and it's the type of fire that can be very difficult to extinguish. Keep in mind; you are going to use the battery until it fails. And one of a lithium's failure modes is a fire! Lead-acids don't burn. They might leak acid or vent hydrogen; but they won't start a fire except in the most extreme scenarios. If you're worried about venting or hydrogen, use a sealed AGM type lead-acid. Life: The main problem is that people buy mostly on price. Consumer-grade lead-acids *and* lithiums are only likely to last 3-6 years (no matter what the ads claim). Think about the batteries in your laptop or phone; they are lithium, and most of them get weak and fail within 3-6 years. If you want a lead-acid battery to last, don't buy a 12v starting, marine, or RV battery. They are short-life batteries. Buy a pair of 6v golf cart batteries, or an industrial EV battery, or one for big commercial UPS backup power supplies. These can last 10 years or more. I have Deka gels and Enersys AGM batteries that are over 20 years old and still have more than half their original capacity. If you want a lithium to last, forget the mass-market "lead-acid replacements" and Chinese ebay specials. Get a used electric vehicle battery -- the EPA *requires* the manufacturers to warranty them for 10 years, so the quality is far better. Abuse: Most batteries don't die of old age -- they are *murdered* by negligence and abuse. Bad chargers are everywhere (the Magnetek in the EV is a good "bad" example). Running any battery dead is like giving it a heart attack. Even if it survives, it's been damaged. Marketing: It's said that there are liars, damned liars, and battery salesman. Most people's understanding of batteries is so poor that they fall victim to every kind of puffery and exaggeration. They don't test a battery; they just blindly believe what the salesman and old wive's tales say. It's currently fashionable to claim that a lithium battery is "equivalent" to a lead-acid. This is mostly a marketing lie. If you're starting an ICE, all you need is a few seconds of high current. That amounts to less than 1 amphour. Lithiums tend to be better for this type of high-current pulse. So a tiny cheap low-capacity lithium can start an car engine... once. Car batteries have far higher amphour capacities -- not just to start the engine; but also to maintain power for long periods of time. Modern cars have dozens of always-on loads (clocks, radio presets, keyless entry, security systems, electronic odometers, etc). Our Eurovans have even more (CO detectors, etc.) So the batteries are sized to be able to handle all these "vampire" loads for weeks on end, in case the vehicle is not driven. Lead-acids are *good* at providing small amounts of power for a long time -- you get *more* than the rated amphour capacity when discharged this way. A lead-acid "equvalent" battery can't power these loads. "There are few industries with more BS than the battery industry." -- Elon Musk "The storage battery is one of those peculiar things which appeals to the imagination, and no more perfect thing could be desired by stock swindlers. Just as soon as a man gets working on the secondary battery, it brings out his latent capacity for lying." -- Thomas A. Edison Grumpy old Lee Hart -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Re: Adding a Second Coach Battery
I believe AGM batteries don't need ventilation while charging either. Still quite heavy, but less expensive than Lithium. Can be turn on it's side too.
On Mon, Mar 1, 2021 at 8:50 AM Michael Diehr < md03@...> wrote: Bernie,?
Lead acids do vent nasty stuff - hydrogen gas (explosive) and sulfuric acid vapor (toxic, corrosive).? Ventilation is required.?
Have you considered upgrading to a Lithium battery? ? They are much more expensive in initial purchase, and can't be charged at temperatures below freezing, but on pretty much every other metric they are vastly superior to lead acid batteries and will probably outlive the van. ? One Lithium battery will outperform two lead acids, and they don't require any ventilation, etc.
Mike
I've purchased a battery box, cables and second identical coach battery in order to add the battery in parallel.? I was planning on installing the battery box direclty next to the existing coach battery on the floor of the van in the rear storage? area, and then running the cables through holes I'll drill through the passenger rear enclosed storage area and the existing battery box.
I've read that lead acid batteries can produce explosive gasses and ventilation is needed to prevent a dangerous situation.? The existing coach battery box has a vent hose to the exterior of the? van and seems to be sealed otherwise.? I purchased this box for my setup:??.? That box has fairly large openings under the lid to allow cables into the battery and is therefore not sealed.? Once the box is in place it will be surrounded with stuff in the cargo area and will not have much air movement around it.
Question is...? Is ventilation truly important and what amount is needed?? Could I just run a vent hose, similar is size to the existing coach battery vent hose, from the new box into the old box, and would that be enough?? Even with a connecting vent hose in place, is the fact that this box is not sealed a problem and? should I be looking a buying a different battery box? ?
Thanks!
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Re: Adding a Second Coach Battery
Bernie,?
Lead acids do vent nasty stuff - hydrogen gas (explosive) and sulfuric acid vapor (toxic, corrosive). ?Ventilation is required.?
Have you considered upgrading to a Lithium battery? ? They are much more expensive in initial purchase, and can't be charged at temperatures below freezing, but on pretty much every other metric they are vastly superior to lead acid batteries and will probably outlive the van. ? One Lithium battery will outperform two lead acids, and they don't require any ventilation, etc.
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I've purchased a battery box, cables and second identical coach battery in order to add the battery in parallel.? I was planning on installing the battery box direclty next to the existing coach battery on the floor of the van in the rear storage? area, and then running the cables through holes I'll drill through the passenger rear enclosed storage area and the existing battery box.
I've read that lead acid batteries can produce explosive gasses and ventilation is needed to prevent a dangerous situation.? The existing coach battery box has a vent hose to the exterior of the? van and seems to be sealed otherwise.? I purchased this box for my setup:??.? That box has fairly large openings under the lid to allow cables into the battery and is therefore not sealed.? Once the box is in place it will be surrounded with stuff in the cargo area and will not have much air movement around it.
Question is...? Is ventilation truly important and what amount is needed?? Could I just run a vent hose, similar is size to the existing coach battery vent hose, from the new box into the old box, and would that be enough?? Even with a connecting vent hose in place, is the fact that this box is not sealed a problem and? should I be looking a buying a different battery box? ?
Thanks!
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Adding a Second Coach Battery
I've purchased a battery box, cables and second identical coach battery in order to add the battery in parallel.? I was planning on installing the battery box direclty next to the existing coach battery on the floor of the van in the rear storage? area, and then running the cables through holes I'll drill through the passenger rear enclosed storage area and the existing battery box.
I've read that lead acid batteries can produce explosive gasses and ventilation is needed to prevent a dangerous situation.? The existing coach battery box has a vent hose to the exterior of the? van and seems to be sealed otherwise.? I purchased this box for my setup:??.? That box has fairly large openings under the lid to allow cables into the battery and is therefore not sealed.? Once the box is in place it will be surrounded with stuff in the cargo area and will not have much air movement around it.
Question is...? Is ventilation truly important and what amount is needed?? Could I just run a vent hose, similar is size to the existing coach battery vent hose, from the new box into the old box, and would that be enough?? Even with a connecting vent hose in place, is the fact that this box is not sealed a problem and? should I be looking a buying a different battery box?
?
Thanks!
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Re: Looking for Neutral Safety Switch for 93 Eurovan
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On Fri, Feb 26, 2021, 15:29 sam letzring < sletz@...> wrote: I just found one on Amazon- probably available elsewhere too!
Sam
02 EVC
On 2/26/2021 4:42 PM, Maitland Kelly wrote:
> 095 919 823 B
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Re: Looking for Neutral Safety Switch for 93 Eurovan
I just found one on Amazon- probably available elsewhere too!
Sam
02 EVC
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On 2/26/2021 4:42 PM, Maitland Kelly wrote: 095 919 823 B
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Looking for Neutral Safety Switch for 93 Eurovan
Hi all,
My NSS (part # 095 919 823 B) just developed a crack and has begun to leak fluid out :/?
Sadly these are impossible to find. Does anyone know where one might be able to source one?
Worse case scenario I change out the wiring harness
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Re: 1995 EVC Charging Issues
Thanks to all for the replies/input.? With the alternator being 7 years old and over 100k and it sounds a bit noisy, I'm going to just replace the whole thing.? Easy enough.? Should have it today.
FWIW, this guy's videos are gold:
?
On Mon, Feb 22, 2021 at 4:05 PM Stephen Jackson < register@...> wrote: On mine, the brushes were just worn out and only making occasional contact
I pulled the alternator and did the swap on the bench
Stephen ? Check slip rings where brushes contact them, if wore bad go for a different alternator? On Feb 22, 2021, at 1:55 PM, Tabitha & Mark Reed <tmreedsix@...> wrote:
? I have replaced just the voltage regulator before, since the alternator seemed otherwise OK (not squealing or grinding sounds when I turned the pulley).? Autohaus AZ had the voltage regulator which included the brushes, etc for around $75 at the time.? You can swap out the voltage regulator with the alternator in place, so it is pretty easy to do. (This is on a VR6 model but I would think that the regulator is at least available for your model, access may be another story all together).? This is pretty common preventative maintenance on the 1.8T motor also.
Good luck.
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Thanks to you all for the great leads!
Adios,
Chris
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Re: 1995 EVC Charging Issues
Sounds like the brushes are worn down and only occasionally make contact. They are part of the regulator so if you replace that it should fix the problem. That is also the reason why you are not seeing the red light on the dash. ????????????? Steve
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Re: 1995 EVC Charging Issues
On mine, the brushes were just worn out and only making occasional contact
I pulled the alternator and did the swap on the bench
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On Feb 22, 2021, at 1:03 PM, Wigen via groups.io <chenely63@...> wrote:
? Check slip rings where brushes contact them, if wore bad go for a different alternator? On Feb 22, 2021, at 1:55 PM, Tabitha & Mark Reed <tmreedsix@...> wrote:
? I have replaced just the voltage regulator before, since the alternator seemed otherwise OK (not squealing or grinding sounds when I turned the pulley).? Autohaus AZ had the voltage regulator which included the brushes, etc for around $75 at the time.? You can swap out the voltage regulator with the alternator in place, so it is pretty easy to do. (This is on a VR6 model but I would think that the regulator is at least available for your model, access may be another story all together).? This is pretty common preventative maintenance on the 1.8T motor also.
Good luck.
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Re: 1995 EVC Charging Issues
Check slip rings where brushes contact them, if wore bad go for a different alternator?
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Show quoted text
On Feb 22, 2021, at 1:55 PM, Tabitha & Mark Reed <tmreedsix@...> wrote:
? I have replaced just the voltage regulator before, since the alternator seemed otherwise OK (not squealing or grinding sounds when I turned the pulley).? Autohaus AZ had the voltage regulator which included the brushes, etc for around $75 at the time.? You can swap out the voltage regulator with the alternator in place, so it is pretty easy to do. (This is on a VR6 model but I would think that the regulator is at least available for your model, access may be another story all together).? This is pretty common preventative maintenance on the 1.8T motor also.
Good luck.
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Re: 1995 EVC Charging Issues
I have replaced just the voltage regulator before, since the alternator seemed otherwise OK (not squealing or grinding sounds when I turned the pulley).? Autohaus AZ had the voltage regulator which included the brushes, etc for around $75 at the time.? You can swap out the voltage regulator with the alternator in place, so it is pretty easy to do. (This is on a VR6 model but I would think that the regulator is at least available for your model, access may be another story all together).? This is pretty common preventative maintenance on the 1.8T motor also.
Good luck.
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Re: Thank you for your welcome.
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On Feb 22, 2021, at 10:37 AM, rdesjar897 <rdesjar897@...> wrote:
?
Googled it!! Just S. of Portland Oregon!!
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get
Joe
out of curiosity what country, province, state and perhaps continent is?Multnomah Village??
that could be helpful. Not trying being mean here, I just think it¡¯s helpful and needed to answer your question.
phil
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Re: Thank you for your welcome.
Googled it!! Just S. of Portland Oregon!!
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get
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Joe
out of curiosity what country, province, state and perhaps continent is?Multnomah Village??
that could be helpful. Not trying being mean here, I just think it¡¯s helpful and needed to answer your question.
phil
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Re: 1995 EVC Speedometer Cable?
Thanks Craig and Long.? I'll double check the connection by the firewall.? I do suspect that the distance that the cable had been pulled from the firewall may indicate that the cable was pulled out from the back of the cluster during the repair.? Hopefully not a big deal.?
I need to pull the cluster anyway since I have this common issue with the temp gage to fix too:??
Apologize ahead of time if this is a duplicate message. But couldn¡¯t tell if the first came through.
My cable separated at the threaded connection next to the master cylinder. It appeared to be intact but the two cables were not fully mated. Check that connection first and hopefully that¡¯s all it is.?
See the photo attached at the blue tape.? On Mon, Feb 22, 2021 at 11:00 AM Long1pham < long1pham@...> wrote: Craig, the other side also has a square end shape and it just being pushed in.? Long -----Original Message----- From: Craig < craig.mcclung@...> To: [email protected]Sent: Mon, Feb 22, 2021 7:55 am Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] 1995 EVC Speedometer Cable?
I just had my exhaust manifold gaskets replaced by a local mechanic.? Yesterday my speedometer stopped working.? I noticed that it was routed strangely with an abrupt bend in it and one of the brackets that held it was bent, and, it was pulled out about 9 inches or so from the firewall but still seemed maybe intact behind the firewall.? I straightened out the routing and the bracket with surprising ease indicating that it could have been very easily bent.? I also pushed the cable back into the firewall hoping that 'maybe' the cable would re-engage on the back of the cluster.? Speedometer still didn't work.?
I'm presuming that the mechanic bumped the cable while working on the rather involved job of replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets.? Does anyone know if the cable on the back of the instrument cluster is threaded or pushed onto the back?? I'm a bit concerned that? if it is threaded that the the back of the cluster is now broken...? which I think would be bad...??
Thanks!
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Re: 1995 EVC Speedometer Cable?
Apologize ahead of time if this is a duplicate message. But couldn¡¯t tell if the first came through.
My cable separated at the threaded connection next to the master cylinder. It appeared to be intact but the two cables were not fully mated. Check that connection first and hopefully that¡¯s all it is.?
See the photo attached at the blue tape.?
On Mon, Feb 22, 2021 at 11:00 AM Long1pham < long1pham@...> wrote: Craig, the other side also has a square end shape and it just being pushed in.? Long -----Original Message----- From: Craig < craig.mcclung@...> To: [email protected]Sent: Mon, Feb 22, 2021 7:55 am Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] 1995 EVC Speedometer Cable?
I just had my exhaust manifold gaskets replaced by a local mechanic.? Yesterday my speedometer stopped working.? I noticed that it was routed strangely with an abrupt bend in it and one of the brackets that held it was bent, and, it was pulled out about 9 inches or so from the firewall but still seemed maybe intact behind the firewall.? I straightened out the routing and the bracket with surprising ease indicating that it could have been very easily bent.? I also pushed the cable back into the firewall hoping that 'maybe' the cable would re-engage on the back of the cluster.? Speedometer still didn't work.?
I'm presuming that the mechanic bumped the cable while working on the rather involved job of replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets.? Does anyone know if the cable on the back of the instrument cluster is threaded or pushed onto the back?? I'm a bit concerned that? if it is threaded that the the back of the cluster is now broken...? which I think would be bad...??
Thanks!
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Re: 1995 EVC Speedometer Cable?
Craig, the other side also has a square end shape and it just being pushed in.? Long
-----Original Message----- From: Craig <craig.mcclung@...> To: [email protected]Sent: Mon, Feb 22, 2021 7:55 am Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] 1995 EVC Speedometer Cable?
I just had my exhaust manifold gaskets replaced by a local mechanic.? Yesterday my speedometer stopped working.? I noticed that it was routed strangely with an abrupt bend in it and one of the brackets that held it was bent, and, it was pulled out about 9 inches or so from the firewall but still seemed maybe intact behind the firewall.? I straightened out the routing and the bracket with surprising ease indicating that it could have been very easily bent.? I also pushed the cable back into the firewall hoping that 'maybe' the cable would re-engage on the back of the cluster.? Speedometer still didn't work.?
I'm presuming that the mechanic bumped the cable while working on the rather involved job of replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets.? Does anyone know if the cable on the back of the instrument cluster is threaded or pushed onto the back?? I'm a bit concerned that? if it is threaded that the the back of the cluster is now broken...? which I think would be bad...??
Thanks!
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Re: 1995 EVC Speedometer Cable?
I just had my exhaust manifold gaskets replaced by a local mechanic.? Yesterday my speedometer stopped working.? I noticed that it was routed strangely with an abrupt bend in it and one of the brackets that held it was bent, and, it was pulled out about 9 inches or so from the firewall but still seemed maybe intact behind the firewall.? I straightened out the routing and the bracket with surprising ease indicating that it could have been very easily bent.? I also pushed the cable back into the firewall hoping that 'maybe' the cable would re-engage on the back of the cluster.? Speedometer still didn't work.?
I'm presuming that the mechanic bumped the cable while working on the rather involved job of replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets.? Does anyone know if the cable on the back of the instrument cluster is threaded or pushed onto the back?? I'm a bit concerned that? if it is threaded that the the back of the cluster is now broken...? which I think would be bad...??
Thanks!
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Re: Battery Charging via Shore Power
My understanding is that the isolator connects the engine and coach battery when the ignition is turned on.? Therefore you don't really need the jumper in place while driving since both the coach and house battery will be charged by the alternator.
My 95's EVC stock MagnaTech charger died some years ago and I've been too lazy to pull it out and replace it.? To keep my house and engine battery charged while the camper is idle, I plug in a trickle charger to the engine battery and connect the jumper at the firewall on the isolator to keep both engine and coach batteries charged.??
Bernie
We generally camp at sites with shore power so with the jumper in place both batteries would be getting charged while we are not driving. I assume the jumper wire would allow a charge to the house battery while driving as it is bypassing the solenoid.?
I may make my wire with small booster clamps to make it easier to put on and take off. Currently I plug in the shore power and connect my trickle charger once a month while the van is parked for the winter but only having to plug in an extension cord has its appeal.?
Noel
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Lee Hart
rdesjar897
Craig