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Jerry - Thanks for the reply. Actually, FWIW if I can figure this out
I'd really sort of be poaching parts for an Audi 2.2 liter engine, code
AAN, which stock currently provides @ 227bhp @ 5,400rpm and about
248ft/lbs at 1,950 rpm.

sana-@... wrote:
original article:

The EV used 3 different 2.5L 5 cyl engines (audi engine).

Gas 2.5L (5 cyl) Engines
92-94: engine code AAF; bore = 81mm, stoke = 95.5, CR = 8.5:1
94-96: engine code ACU; bore = 81mm, stoke = 95.5, CR = 10.0:1

Diesel 2.5L (5cyl) TDI Engine
MY 96+: engine code ACV; bore = 81mm, stroke = 95.5, CR = 20.5:1

I think you ought to consider a different route to increasing your
power output. EV parts will not be cheap.

Hope this helps
Jerry




mpederso-@... wrote:
original article:

I'm new to this list. I'm not sure I'm in the right place but I

hope

someone can help or direct me to information on Eurovan engine

optoions

& perhaps some parts.

Is / was there an in line 5 cylinder engine used in the Eurovans?
Was its displacement @ 2.5 liters (ie. a 95.5mm strike and 81mm - 83

mm

bore)?
Gas or diesel?

Is there a source for a block (pistons, rod & crank)?

I'm looking into trying to find out if there may be a parts cross

over

for use with an Audi auto engine (an AAN) to increase the auto's

stock

displacement from @ 2.2 liters to 2.5+.

Would apppreciate any BTDT's or other suggestions or advice. Thanks

Mike P
mpederson@...

Todd,
I really have no first hand experience with the Bosch Platinum plugs in an EV
but the EuroVan Update newsletter has reported some positive and some
negative performance as reported by EV owners who tried the Bosch platinum
plugs. Your experience supports the positive side. Maybe there are other
factors involved. I assume you have the traditional single side electrode
Bosch platinum plug.
Ron

Hello,

A Eugenian here thanking you for the note re. 2000 OR State Parks Pass.? I'll be on the look out for this, and making use of it with our 1999 EV Weekender.

Thanks again,

Donald Newman
1999 Weekender

John Cowan wrote:

EuroVan fans:



Thanks to all who made suggestions regarding my van's hard starting
problem. It's going in to the shop to have a (belated) scheduled
maintenance check, and I will certainly bring up the topic of plugs,
cold-start valve, and fuel lines. I will also be sending in the
change-of-owner card so that I can get in on the (seemingly) impending
recall.



Thanks again,



Marcus Elia

Peterborough, ON

dela@...

'95 EV GLS

In a message dated 11/6/99 6:12:36 PM, RBIEGEL@... writes:

<<some people have hard starting problems with Bosch Platinum
plugs>>

I installed Bosch Platinums in my EV 8,000 miles ago and they seem fine. The
spark plugs I replaced were OEM. We used to have the same "hot" start
problem, but it seems to have gone away since I put in new plugs.

Todd
93 EV GL 87,000 miles

If you do want to try the Champion plugs be sure you get the right ones. They
are made in Belgium! The Champion number on one of my old plugs is
N9BMC/RO/10101000026AA.

Thanks Ron, for the information. I think $7 for a spark plug is a small
investment for a smooth running engine. I will do some research on the net to see
if I can find a cheaper source for the Champions.. I'll let you know if there is
an improvement. I also installed a new cold start valve yesterday and it started
right up this morning.
Thanks
Eckhard

G'day from Australia,
In the Southern Hemisphere the shadow on a sundial
travels anti-clockwise, therefore if clocks had have been invented below
the Equator the hands would have been made to follow this observation
and car speedometer would run backwards!
And it follows that if maps had have been developed here
then you would all be down under! Which way is up ? ;-)
We also drive on the left hand side of the road which has
an interesting side effect, The ashtray for smokers in most vehicles is
in the centre (our left) and most smokers use there right hand !
Which explains why you will often have sparks on the
road from the car in front and why we have lots of fires starting from
roadsides and thousands of empty cans and broken bottles gracing our
highways.
We give way to the right when the best view for the
driver is on the left... not thru the door pillar !
Ray
89' Transporter
99' Tdi almost here.

Greg,


Can you email me with the name of the person who you are dealing with
at VW? I'd like to compare notes.

Thanks.


Ric
(rgolen@...)

This message should have been directed to Greg, and not John but thanks to
all for the updates on this problem.

John,
Thanks for the information on your experience with VW. I have an appointment
on Nov 15th to have my fuel lines inspected by a VW dealer. In the meantime,
I have switched vehicles with my wife and I only drive the van on my short
commute to work. I inspect the lines each day before I leave and so far
there is no evidence of a leak but your comment about the leak occurring
sporadically and the inability to duplicate it's occurrence at the VW dealer
has me worried. I wonder if it makes sense to position a small catch pan
under the suspected connections to keep any sporadic drips from going on the
distributor. This would also give me the evidence I would need.

Eckhard,
If you do want to try the Champion plugs be sure you get the right ones. They
are made in Belgium! The Champion number on one of my old plugs is
N9BMC/RO/10101000026AA. They are special plugs that Champion appears to
make for VW/Audi. They have twin side electrodes with one center electrode
having a tapered post. Never could figure out how to check the gap or if you
even should try to. I suspect an auto parts store would have difficulty
ordering them but never tried. I picked mine up at the VW parts counter. The
VW part number is 101-000-026-AA (the number stamped right on the plug!) and
they cost $7.19 each back in March '96. A bit expensive but I went for it to
avoid second guessing the engineer that selected these plugs for this engine.

Ron

Hi there.

Well, since you ask , I am in Portland Bill.

I have been lurking close to a year. I have a 95 EVC which is the latest
in a line of VW vans. I started out with a Bug in 1971, my senior year
in high school. I have had other rigs but the vans suit me the best,
combining economy of operation and capacity with the ability to camp in
it. I don't know what else I would drive. I had a 62 Transporter, a 72
camper, and an 84 Westphalia. When my wife and I tested the 95 we both
thought we were in her dad's Caddy. Did some one say magic carpet?

I wore out the first set of tires in less than a year. I have Nokias and
Gslaveds on now, the Nokias are noisy. They look to be plowing and I may
let them go to hell and go for a set of Agilis Michelins.

I can recall getting the heater fan replaced under warranty and the deep
cycle battery as well.

The CO detector went falsy on me so I pitched it. I keep my eyes out for
a 12 V model to replace it. The appliances have worked well except for
the fridge would not go in the Wallowas. Lately though, it starts right
up and stays lit. I bet successive tank refills have effectively purged
the tank of "bad air".

I wish I had gotten the middle seat when we got the thing, it would have
come in handy occasionally. And no, I don't want to pay $2000 for one
from the dealer (I'm not making this up). The best deal I could find was
for $400 from Bill Olinger Motorhomes, who deals in big Winnies.

I asked the parts guy at Herzog-Meier about the rear fogs and he told me
they were a Canadian item. I guessed the two EVCs in the lot then were
immigrants. I happened to be in British Columbia a bit later and went in
to a dealer to inquire, guess what, he said they must be an American
item. I am interested in the part number for the OEM front fogs but I am
afraid they will be too expensive. I may go with PIAAs. Any advise?

I dislike the absurd prices for parts, though so far no big repairs
after about 70000 miles.

I commend the group on its continued good natured and congenial give and
take of information and opinion.

I continue to monitor the fuel lines for any sign of leakage. As a power
boater I am keenly aware of the potential of gas vapor. I might
proactively upgrade the thing at some check-up.

Cheers, jc

PS: Oregonians and others: keep an eye out for the 2000 Oregon State
Parks annual pass to go on sale soon at a discount. (I'm a Ranger)

The Norcold fridge has been problematic on propane from the start, but after
spark electrode adjustments, would always start.
However, on the last camping trip it would no longer light on propane.
Examination revealed very little spark to light the propane. Initially I
thought the problem was the spark electrode but replacement made no
difference. The problem appears that the electronic lighter/relighter does
not seem to create enough spark energy to cause a big spark which is capable
of lighting the fridge.

Since from when the fridge was new, lighting on propane was difficult. I
have know come up with a new way to ignite the propane. I am in the process
of installing a universal barbecue ignitor into the burner box to create the
spark. The original norcold electrode is left in place to sense the flame
(green light) so I know when it has been lighted. Preliminary report is the
spark from the barbecue ignitor is at least 5 times as big as the original.
Lights the propane with one or two clicks of the big red button (the one you
normally press on your propane barbecue to light it). The only disadvantge
is, if the flame where to blow out (never happened to me once lighted) the
system is unable to relight on its own. All safety devices are left in
place so if the flame were to go out the propane does get shut off.

I believe this will solve my propane lighting problems once and for all.
Once final insatllation is done I will post the details. Parts cost for
univeral barbacue ignitor kit $15 canadian.

Tobi

John, If you (or your wife) are smelling fuel inside the van while driving, you probably have a leak in the engine compartment. I say this because it would be difficult for the fumes to travel forward from the gas cap to the passenger compartment ventilation intake. You did not see the leak when you looked later because leaking from the blue and black plastic tank lines occurs infrequently and is difficult to recreate. As I posted previously, three weeks ago I smelled raw fuel while I was driving the van in the morning. Having read all the posts about leaks and fires, I pulled over
immediately and shut off the engine. When I opened the hood, fuel was dripping from the metal ferrule connecting the black plastic tank line to the rubber hose supplying the fuel rail. The fuel was dripping steadily onto the distributor and other parts of the engine compartment. I had the van towed to the VW dealer who does most of my service. There was no way was I going to drive it again until the lines were replaced. The good news is that VW has reviewed my case and has decided to replace the blue and black tank lines as a good will gesture. The bad news is that I have been without my
van for three weeks and won't get it back until Monday at the earliest. One of the reasons it has taken so long to repair is that the dealer, who I consider to be a very capable shop, was unable to get it to leak, even after over a week of testing. I made it clear from the start that I was not taking the van back until the lines were replaced and that I felt VW should fix this safety defect at their expense. I have to say that VW customer service handled my initial and subsequent calls quite well and seemed genuinely concerned about the leak and keeping me as a customer (I have previously
owned 2 Jettas and a Sirocco). While I am pleased at the outcome in my case, I fail to understand what's keeping them from just doing a recall to correct a problem that appears to be widespread, and has the potential for big liability. I remain optimistic that VW is just now beginning to realize the magnitude of the problem and will soon do a recall. I would tell anyone who has a leak or smells fuel, to immediately get their van checked out by a VW dealer and report the problem to VW customer service and the NHTSA. Maybe if enough of us do this it will bring this issue to a head and there
will be a recall. Thanks again to all on the list for keeping us informed about this issue.

Greg Kveton
1993 EV GL, 77K miles


From: JDOgden@...

<< You should also make sure you have
the correct plugs EVs seem to only like certain types. >>

This is the first thing I would check since I've also read in the EV Update
newsletter that some people have hard starting problems with Bosch Platinum
plugs. May be worth trying a set of the expensive original Champion plugs
just to be sure.

Thanks for the advice. I have regular Bosch in there. It is funny that Champion
plugs are regarded as the best, especially since my mechanic claims that
Champion plugs are for lawn mowers and nothing else. He swears Bosch are the
best, but then again, he is not a trained VW mechanic. I will get some
Champions and hope it will run a bit better (it does not idle too well even
after I replaced the wires).
Thanks again
Eckhard

When I start it I step on the gas pedal a little. When
I first bought the van I did the same thing and I always had problems
starting it. My wife, who does not have this bad habit, had no problems
starting it (unless it is hot and humid and the engine is warm). Make
sure
you don't touch the accelerator pedal when you start the van.
----------
in responce to the above comments

When you step on the gas pedal you are increasing the air flow and not
the gas flow. Look where the cable goes and what moves when you have
someone step on the pedal. The fuel is delivered at a steady rate
through the injectors. Hence the fire problems are worse because the
fuel keeps spraying even after shutting the key off, do to the
accumulater.

Do not think you are hurting much but you can break your habit anyway.

The problem is probably a dripping injector which can be tested
separatly or your cold start valve. You should also make sure you have
the correct plugs EVs seem to only like certain types. I had some
Delco plat's that mine did not run right with and the dealer changed
them out. They were made and spec for the EV.

Has anyone found any seat covers for the 93 EVGL? I need some for the front seats
but am unable to find anything. The driver's seat is wearing through on the left
side.
Thanks
Eckhard

I am about to put a new (used) automatic transmission in my 93 EV (with 5 cyl
engine.) Does anyone have any tips or advice? I will change the mounts and hope
it will stop shaking when the a/c is running. I will also change the shocks
while I am at it. Since the Bilsteins are out of my price range I will install
Monroe Sensatrac ($78/pair). I'll let you know how they are.
Eckhard

In a message dated 11/6/99 8:07:03 PM, byeager@... writes:

<< You should also make sure you have
the correct plugs EVs seem to only like certain types. >>

This is the first thing I would check since I've also read in the EV Update
newsletter that some people have hard starting problems with Bosch Platinum
plugs. May be worth trying a set of the expensive original Champion plugs
just to be sure.
Ron

In a message dated 11/6/99 8:07:03 PM, byeager@... writes:

<< You should also make sure you have
the correct plugs EVs seem to only like certain types. >>