开云体育

My wife drives the van probably 10 to 20 miles a day and we live in the NW
so it's very cool here. I don't believe I will need to do much more to it
in a long time as it doesn't smoke and the crank wasn't scored at all. The
little bit of aluminum that was stuck on the crank I carefully cleaned off
using a long strip of 320 grit sand paper. The journals were baby smooth
upon reassembly.



I did the mains by sliding the top half out with a combination of pushing
slightly on the side without the notch with a hard plastic screw driver and
rotating the crank. Apparently there is a tool to push the top caps out by
installing in into the oiling hole but I didn't use that. Once the bearing
half was sticking out the other side slightly I could grab a hold of it with
either a mini pry bar or a brake adjust tool on the notch. The 4th, 5th,
and 6th bearings came out easy as they were the really bad ones. I only had
to crank the motor around. I actually made a tool from wood (oak) to
install the bearings as I didn't want to scrape on anything with metal. I
also made sure to wipe away any aluminum dust left behind after the shell
was pushed into it's spot. The tough part was getting to the cap bolts on
number six as I had to actually chisel away some of the aluminum on the rear
main cover (the aluminum plat that holds the rear main) being careful not to
have the little pieces of aluminum fly into the motor somewhere.
Apparently, these motors were meant to be rebuilt outside of the vehicle
with the rear main cover off (go figure) and there was no clearance for a
socket to fit on the head of the cap bolts. There was still more than
enough area on the rear main cover for the oil pan gasket to seal. I have a
diesel 4 cylinder on my engine stand now and they have the same issue.
Other than that, it's easy from there (although there are some stingy oil
pan bolts and you have to swing one of the power steering hoses out of the
way which I did without leaking any P/S fluid). I did have to clean the
pick up tube as there were some small bearing flakes in it which I'm sure
was causing reduced pressure as well.



As far as the rod bolts were concerned, I did reuse them. I know they were
stretch bolts but I didn't have a choice at the time as the van had to be
back up and running ASAP. I have reused stretch bolts in the past but I
don't reuse them twice and only on my own stuff. BUT, when possible, I buy
new bolts (head and rod) and always when I work on someone else's vehicle.



All in all it was a pretty straight forward job. I would have no problem
recommending other people with the same problem to do the same. I will tell
you all one HUGE tip, though. THE FLYWHEEL HAS NOTCHES IN IT!! You don't
have to pull the transmission to get to the two hidden bolts behind the
flywheel (as the flywheel is some what bowl shaped). I didn't pull the
trans but I was ready to until a friend reminded me that the flywheel should
have notches. I can't tell you how grateful I was that I called this
particular friend and I wasn't even asking about the bolts! I'm just glad
that it worked out the way it did. I only paid $1600 for the van and it's
one of the rare standard vans which have no power anything along with a
manual transmission. I much prefer that as I have 4 cars and don't need to
be constantly fixing on the EV. Right now I am focusing on my 1980 2 door
diesel Dasher with the Brittax ragtop. It's a fun/cute little car with
great potential but I got it pretty beat on. Luckily the motor had great
compression so I didn't have to go down that road, only injectors, glow
plugs, and a lot of adjusting. I'm finding that working on Dashers is
actually easier than working on Rabbits.



Dave

If you don't use the system regularly, it can leak through the seals-
-so it may be worth trying a charge. The self help kits are getting
pretty good these days, I recommend you get one with a pressure
gauge and make sure it is low before you recharge.

Jim Black

--- In ev_update@..., "Ian Mothersill"
<imothers_2000@...> wrote:

Hi,

Looking for some feedback on A/C service for my 93 EV with 160k

miles.

The compressor was replaced 4 years /30,000 miles ago; the high
pressure switch was replaced about three years ago. I bough the

van 2

summers ago, the A/C blew cold then. Last summer it was OK, but
seemed not quite as good. But then the van would not start at all

for

most of the summer so I didn't worry about the A/C. This summer,

the

A/C blows a bit cooler than outside air, but not by much. We have

not

had anything like *hot* weather yet this year (Canadian west coast)
but I doubt the A/C will be up to 95+ degree weather once it

arrives.

If I put the selector on one of the 2 non-A/C settings and slide

the

temp to cold, there is no warmth in the air blowing through. Does
this indicate the foam on the air flaps is OK?

My guess is the R134 needs to be charged up. I am thinking of just
charging up the system and calling it a day. I know this is not

the

most "responsible" approach, but I am not keen on finding a needle

in

a haystack. Assuming I have a leak, is it likely it can be found

when

the system still works after 2 years, just not as well? How hard

is

it to do the A/C charge - is it worth getting a kit and going
self-serve? Any other suggestions?

thanks,

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

Yes, that is a big job! I've done rod bearings and rings that way in the
past. Congratulations for even attempting it, you have bought yourself some
time. How did you do the mains? You must have been able to slide the block
half of the bearing shell in with the crank in there. How did the journals
look? Was there much scoring? Also, did you check if the rod bolts are
reusable, and not the stretch type (I don't know this engine)?



You might want to start a savings program for the ultimate rebuild that is
probably about 50k down the road. That's about all you can expect from a
bearing replacement on a used crank, depending on the condition of the crank
journals. Use a high viscosity oil too, maybe 20w-50. If the pressure
starts to drop again, even try straight 40wt. oil.



Again, congratulations, and good luck!



Stuart, BTDT



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of rabbit16v_77
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 2:57 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure



I recently asked about a low oil pressure problem with my 93 EV. It
would start and the lifters would clack until they were pumped up,
then after about 15 minutes of driving (sometimes less if it were
warm out) it would loose oil pressure and the warning light and
beeper would start. Once you stopped driving it and it cooled off,
the cycle would start all over again.

I had decided that it couldn't be a plugged oil pump pick up tube as
it would have less pressure with the oil cold and more as the oil
warmed up. I didn't suspect the sensors as it truly had low oil
pressure if the lifters would loose their prime. I didn't suspect
the pump as it would have issues even when the oil was colder.

What I did was pulled the oil pan and replaced the mains and rod
bearings. It wasn't the funnest job in the world but I now have
constant oil pressure and no warning lights or beepers. It looked as
though the previous owner had overheated the motor and one of the
oiler bearings had actually come apart blocking the oil hole.

I also did not use "Eurovan" main bearings as they want to charge you
around $50 per bearing. That would be $300 for just the main
bearings. I found that the part numbers were the same for the older
Audi 5 cylinder motors and the whole set cost me about $75.

Anyway, I am just really glad and a little proud that I was able to
fix our little van. My wife is really glad as she can drive farther
than 5 miles at a time before the warning buzzer and light goes off.

Dave

Google "heat absorption refrigeration" and you will find many links.
Some are good (the wiki article is pretty good), some are highly
technical, some are lame. Buyer beware.




--- In ev_update@..., "forest flanigan" <creoflan@...> wrote:

I just thought for general info this wasn't too bad--untill he says

that we

cn achieve 90% more efficiency by adding fans.

Forest


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I just thought for general info this wasn't too bad--untill he says that we
cn achieve 90% more efficiency by adding fans.

Forest

He probably meant to type "thermometer" instead of "thermostat" in the penultimate paragraph, but
he is the expert ;-)

Dave Richoux, 2000 EVC

Jeff,

Here you go, $40 apiece plus shipping

<>

John

Hey Guys,

If this puppy was here in California, it would be on the market for $39,995 and gone in a week or two... same goes for Vancouver, BC. Low mileage is everything with EVCs. I was lucky enough to pick up a 95 a couple of months ago with > 29K miles and the history checked out on CarFax. This is the season to be selling an EVC if you expect a quick, high dollar sale.

John

Hey, that WAS nice.


--- In ev_update@..., kgkirkley@... wrote:

In a message dated 6/25/08 11:47:37 AM, dave_king_ev@... writes:

Oh please....


"Instead of applying cold directly the heat is drawn out, or

absorbed."

This guy makes educational videos?? He wouldn't pass a 10th grade
science class.

Is this really necessary?
If you can't say anything nice, perhaps you shouldn't say anything

at all.

Kent Kirkley


****
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.

()

Oh please....


"Instead of applying cold directly the heat is drawn out, or absorbed."


This guy makes educational videos? He wouldn't pass a 10th grade
science class.

This is for all of us that have a fridge--



Forest

Ian,



We don't need no stinkin' air conditioning here in the Pacific Northwest!
We have natural air conditioning provided by the frigid Pacific Ocean!



Your system has a leak, and it needs to be repaired by a pro. It sounds
like you have lost most of the refrigerant.



Was your '93 upgraded to R134 when you replaced the compressor? If not, now
would be the time to either do that or switch to one of the new products
that is compatible with R12 systems, but environmentally friendly. Anytime
you open the system it has to be evacuated of all the air before new
refrigerant can be introduced. That takes special tools that the pros have.



I hope we do have a warm summer, it's been way too cold this spring.



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of Ian Mothersill
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 8:17 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] How often do you service your A/C ? (93 EV) - anbody do
their own?



Hi,

Looking for some feedback on A/C service for my 93 EV with 160k miles.

The compressor was replaced 4 years /30,000 miles ago; the high
pressure switch was replaced about three years ago. I bough the van 2
summers ago, the A/C blew cold then. Last summer it was OK, but
seemed not quite as good. But then the van would not start at all for
most of the summer so I didn't worry about the A/C. This summer, the
A/C blows a bit cooler than outside air, but not by much. We have not
had anything like *hot* weather yet this year (Canadian west coast)
but I doubt the A/C will be up to 95+ degree weather once it arrives.

If I put the selector on one of the 2 non-A/C settings and slide the
temp to cold, there is no warmth in the air blowing through. Does
this indicate the foam on the air flaps is OK?

My guess is the R134 needs to be charged up. I am thinking of just
charging up the system and calling it a day. I know this is not the
most "responsible" approach, but I am not keen on finding a needle in
a haystack. Assuming I have a leak, is it likely it can be found when
the system still works after 2 years, just not as well? How hard is
it to do the A/C charge - is it worth getting a kit and going
self-serve? Any other suggestions?

thanks,

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

...if you happen to leave your lights on overnight, and next morning
attach your battery charger BACKWARDS (on full "start" charge, for a
few minutes), and then realize your error and attach it correctly, and
spend the next three minutes asking yourself "How could I be so
stupid?" then not to worry: your engine will start and everything
will be OK.

In a message dated 6/25/08 11:47:37 AM, dave_king_ev@... writes:

Oh please....


"Instead of applying cold directly the heat is drawn out, or absorbed."


This guy makes educational videos?? He wouldn't pass a 10th grade
science class.

Is this really necessary?
If you can't say anything nice, perhaps you shouldn't say anything at all.

Kent Kirkley


****
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.

()

Thanks for the info. Being that I have the GLS, Can a get the MV and
Weekended rear seat to retro-fit?

Do you know where I can get a used 3rd row seat/bed assembly?

Thanks again,
Neil

--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

The MV and Weekender rear seat is the same...folds out into a bed.

A

recycler would be your best bet.

The GLS seat is the same width but with more contours and does not

make into a sleeper.

The GLS seat vs. the MV/MV Weekender seats also have entirely

different mountings as well. Won't interchange.

Funny thing happened on the way to a recent camping trip to the
Cowichan River in BC...when I arrives my rear left bumper panel was
missing. I have no idea how it happened but after re=tracing my steps
alas it is gone. Does anyone have an idea where one might be found?
Many thanks

Jeff

Funny thing happened on the way to a recent camping trip to the
Cowichan River in BC...when I arrives my rear left bumper panel was
missing. I have no idea how it happened but after re=tracing my steps
alas it is gone. Does anyone have an idea where one might be found?
Many thanks

Jeff

The MV and Weekender rear seat is the same...folds out into a bed. A

recycler would be your best bet.

The GLS seat is the same width but with more contours and does not make into a sleeper.

The GLS seat vs. the MV/MV Weekender seats also have entirely different mountings as well. Won't interchange.

Wow check this out



Are times getting tough?

I actually went on craigslist to look up the EVC and post it. I saw it
today and from the outside it looks real clean.

Forest

I have a Waeco cooler drawer in my EVWK and like it a lot. Expensive, but very power efficient, mine goes 3 days on the coach battery.

--Stephen