开云体育

"Never garaged" is correct. Dad's garage was built with a 1951 Chevrolet in mind. The EVC didn't fit, too tall. Thanks for all the replies. Gives me a general sense, and along with other sources, a price can be set soon. We've had quite a few lookers in the last few days, but no offers. Yet. Probably waiting for the asking price, hoping for a lowball.

John Harkins

Great minds think alike. I've grown weary of fighting the Norcold.
It's simply not reliable and I'm not a fan of throwing parts at a
problem.

I'd thought of permanent installing a high efficiency DC/110 unit
(Engel and Waeco are well reviewed), but a removable unit is intriguing.

I'm upside down with work for a few days (end of an intensive summer
semester) but my schedule will clear in a week or two.

Keep me apprised of how your attempts at repair go.

Kris

The term GEN may have been used in the '60s but it's back again in the
US (since 1993 when California law required consistent terminology and
the Society of Automotive Engineers -- SAE -- had a convention and
settled on standard terms).

Things like "auxiliary air regulator" became "idle air control" (or
IAC) and "fault code" became "diagnostic trouble code" (or DTC). And
"alternator" went back to being called "generator" (or GEN) in
official VW docs (wiring diagrams, service and other manuals.

Obviously the official term is not automatically going to replace the
conventional term, but it's good to know the official term when using
the search function in an electronic manual. Searching for DTC will
get you where you want to be, even if everyone still calls them fault
codes. Search the wiring diagram for ALT and you won't find it.
Search for GEN and there it is. Same thing with procedures. When the
time comes to remove you automatic transmission the manual will first
tell you to remove the generator.

In the case of GEN vs ALT, a lot of people might think a generator
puts out DC and an alternator puts out AC and that's why they have
different names. In fact they both put out AC (that then has to be
rectified and regulated into the DC required by the car's electrics).

So, it makes sense to call them all "generators" since that what they
both do: they generate electricity. Here's a good link explaining
the differences --





--- In ev_update@..., "Ian Mothersill" <imothers_2000@...>
wrote:

Hi Marty

Definitely an alternator... generators went out in the 60's, but the
term has lived on.

Easy thing to check - are the battery terminals tight and clean?

Easy way to test the alternator on any car...
- check battery voltage with the key off - should be 12v
- watch battery voltage while you start the car. anything below 10v,
the battery is low on charge or getting worn out.
- once the motor is running, voltage should be 13? to 14? volts -
varies a bit from car to car. Should not drop when you turn on
lights, heater fan (assuming rpm is 1,000 or more).
- also, check the alternator belt. Is it tight and clean? I have
seen oily belts slip so that the alternator doesn't spin enough to

charge.

Side note: If you are doing this on a Honda - turn on the lights.
They have a timer that waits 60 seconds or until an electrical load is
turned on before switching on the field coil to the alternator (which
makes it charge). Looks like the alternator is dead when actually
there is nothing wrong.

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

--- In ev_update@..., "Martin Rowley" <martinrowley@>
wrote:

Hey group I have a question. My "generator warning light" came on
today. Does the 2002 EV have an alternator or generator? I replaced
the main battery about 2 weeks ago and have not driven much. Now
engine would not turnover so I am charging the battery now. How do I
check to see if the alternator is working? Marty 2002EVWK

Karen,

I know this is a repeat, but I wouldn't give up on the screen repair
outfits. I would eat my hat with catsup if they wanted more than $20
to fix one of the screens. It's such an EASY gig for them... takes
under five minutes... and the screen material is bought in bulk,
costs them about 50-cents. They would be making a killing off you...
it would only set you back about $20 bucks... and you would be out of
there in about the same amount of time it would take you to find
yellow snot at an Auto Supply Store! ;)

Plus, the repair will look like NEW... none of this glue gun repair
look, but actually brand NEW look!

Just my TooSense!

Best of luck!

Garrett

--- In ev_update@..., Stephen Jackson <register@...>
wrote:

I would probably try 3M's gasket glue. It comes under the name of
"yellow snot" among car restorers, but they have a black version
now. Should be available at any NAPA. Wear rubber gloves, put on

a

thin bead and press the screen material into it.

--Stephen

At 06:39 PM 6/24/2008, you wrote:

--- In
<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>ev_update@...,
Stephen Jackson <register@> wrote:

I would just glue on new material. They come out pretty easily.

You

can get the material at a good hardware store, or just call a
window/screen company, they would do it fairly cheaply.

--Stephen

I tried that on one screen a few years ago. I couldn't find a glue
that would hold and ended up putting on gobs of something that

finally

held == it looks pretty bad. Can you suggest a glue that works?

Maybe

clear caulk?

Karen

I have had luck finding parts by going to car-part.com and finding
places that had eurovans and contacting them. The part I was looking
for wasn't listed (cabin filter cover) so I just looked under a common
part (like an oil pump or something like that) and then called the
places that had eurovan parts. I was surprised how many had what I was
looking for, they just had to walk out on the lot and check. I found
that email is a poor way to communicate with these places, I sent out
about 10 emails and only 3 replied, it is much better to call.
Sean



--- In ev_update@..., "Martin Rowley" <martinrowley@...>
wrote:

Bob,

I have made calls and sent emails to recyclers in Texas, Washington,
California, Alaabama and NY. So far no luck. A mechanic left it
off and then the car went into storage for the winter. Of course
noone will take responsibility for leaving it off. I never looked
underneath. Now I am pondering a retrofit but don't know what
material to construct it out of.



--- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@ wrote:

Recycler. In what part of the country are you?

What happened to the old one?

Bob W.


In a message dated 6/23/2008 1:40:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
martinrowley@ writes:

I am trying to locate a third party or used belly pan for my 2002
EVWK.

Dealer wants $471. Any ideas? Marty




****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (

ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kris wrote:

Has anyone dropped in a replacement fridge? I've taken a look at

some

of the Waeco models and they seem promising.

Kris,

I've thought about this myself and have even looked at a few models
that would work well. (What works with my currently non-functioning
Norcold is to take a gallon jug of water and freeze it solid. It
keeps the Norcold rather cool and provides good, chilly water two
days later. Repeat with a second bottle.)

What is appealing to me right now (if I were to go this route) is
sliding in another *portable* 3-way unit on wheels. BUT, the trick
is to make the access hole where the Norcold is now a really fine
looking storage place when the portable unit is not being used. When
I am wanting to take a trip with the 'fridge, just roll it into
place, hook up the propane and electric lines and be done with it.

If there is ever a stop at a hotel (or a friend's home), great...
wheel it inside (where it is much cooler anyway) and plug it into the
wall.

Everything is a function of time and money. And what I have in mind
would take a modicum of both, but would look like a really fine
custom job when it is all finished.

Let's get together for a cup of coffee, my Austin friend... I'll show
you on a napkin what I have planned. ;)

Best,

Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"

I would probably try 3M's gasket glue. It comes under the name of "yellow snot" among car restorers, but they have a black version now. Should be available at any NAPA. Wear rubber gloves, put on a thin bead and press the screen material into it.

--Stephen

Hi Marty

Definitely an alternator... generators went out in the 60's, but the
term has lived on.

Easy thing to check - are the battery terminals tight and clean?

Easy way to test the alternator on any car...
- check battery voltage with the key off - should be 12v
- watch battery voltage while you start the car. anything below 10v,
the battery is low on charge or getting worn out.
- once the motor is running, voltage should be 13? to 14? volts -
varies a bit from car to car. Should not drop when you turn on
lights, heater fan (assuming rpm is 1,000 or more).
- also, check the alternator belt. Is it tight and clean? I have
seen oily belts slip so that the alternator doesn't spin enough to charge.

Side note: If you are doing this on a Honda - turn on the lights.
They have a timer that waits 60 seconds or until an electrical load is
turned on before switching on the field coil to the alternator (which
makes it charge). Looks like the alternator is dead when actually
there is nothing wrong.

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

--- In ev_update@..., "Martin Rowley" <martinrowley@...>
wrote:

Hey group I have a question. My "generator warning light" came on
today. Does the 2002 EV have an alternator or generator? I replaced
the main battery about 2 weeks ago and have not driven much. Now
engine would not turnover so I am charging the battery now. How do I
check to see if the alternator is working? Marty 2002EVWK

I've used a thin bead of black silicone to attach loose portions of the screen. I also used a
few dabs of the silicone to help hold the screen frame in place after breaking one of the
tabs when removing the screen for a window tinting job.

Carl

--- In ev_update@..., Stephen Jackson <register@...> wrote:

I would just glue on new material. They come out pretty easily. You
can get the material at a good hardware store, or just call a
window/screen company, they would do it fairly cheaply.

--Stephen

I tried that on one screen a few years ago. I couldn't find a glue
that would hold and ended up putting on gobs of something that finally
held == it looks pretty bad. Can you suggest a glue that works? Maybe
clear caulk?

Karen

Check Ebay. There is an O1 listed now with 46K miles, with a pending bid of 31.8K I
think your van should go for more than that. In fact if you search EBay you can see what
various EVCs have sold for and get a good sense of a price and adjust it depending on
how fast you want to sell.

--- In ev_update@..., "John Harkins" <JHARK@...> wrote:

Anyone care to venture what the fair asking price for 2002 EVC should be w/17,000

miles, interior like new, car never garaged, new tires (Orig dry rotted), A/C serviced,
brakes serviced, etc., car runs well. Also has orig awning, rear screen hatch cover, sunroof
screen cover; top bed just installed for first time, never used.

Will sell quickly, once selling asking price established and minor cosmetic work (waxing)

completed.

Thanks in advance

John Harkins
Anglesea, NJ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I would just glue on new material. They come out pretty easily. You can get the material at a good hardware store, or just call a window/screen company, they would do it fairly cheaply.

--Stephen

Did you really mean "never garaged" or "always garaged?" $32k is probably
what it's worth even tho that makes me swallow hard. -Jack



****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. ()

do you by chance have any info/paperwork from when this was done?
also are the fridges in the evcs 3163g or 3163t? i am wondering if
the one vent kits are the g model and the two vent kit the t model?
anyone else willing to check their model number to confirm this?
thanks

--- In ev_update@..., kgkirkley@... wrote:

In a message dated 6/18/08 11:44:31 PM, dshel17@... writes:

thanks for your quick reply! did you do this years ago or

recently? how

did you go about it? i would like to email winnebago but cant

find any

decent email addresses to people who can help me. their phone

support

has been mediocre at best for me in the past.

Years ago....

I bought my '97EVC new Feb. '98.
I think I contacted Winnebago customer service about year later.
They just took my ship to address and sent it to me.
They would even partially pay for the installation.

Kent


****
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey group I have a question. My "generator warning light" came on
today. Does the 2002 EV have an alternator or generator? I replaced
the main battery about 2 weeks ago and have not driven much. Now
engine would not turnover so I am charging the battery now. How do I
check to see if the alternator is working? Marty 2002EVWK

I recently asked about a low oil pressure problem with my 93 EV. It
would start and the lifters would clack until they were pumped up,
then after about 15 minutes of driving (sometimes less if it were
warm out) it would loose oil pressure and the warning light and
beeper would start. Once you stopped driving it and it cooled off,
the cycle would start all over again.

I had decided that it couldn't be a plugged oil pump pick up tube as
it would have less pressure with the oil cold and more as the oil
warmed up. I didn't suspect the sensors as it truly had low oil
pressure if the lifters would loose their prime. I didn't suspect
the pump as it would have issues even when the oil was colder.

What I did was pulled the oil pan and replaced the mains and rod
bearings. It wasn't the funnest job in the world but I now have
constant oil pressure and no warning lights or beepers. It looked as
though the previous owner had overheated the motor and one of the
oiler bearings had actually come apart blocking the oil hole.

I also did not use "Eurovan" main bearings as they want to charge you
around $50 per bearing. That would be $300 for just the main
bearings. I found that the part numbers were the same for the older
Audi 5 cylinder motors and the whole set cost me about $75.

Anyway, I am just really glad and a little proud that I was able to
fix our little van. My wife is really glad as she can drive farther
than 5 miles at a time before the warning buzzer and light goes off.

Dave

I'd call Steve. I bought all three from him and shipping was much
less. Something may be messed up on the site.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

You can install them backwards (saw my kids do it once), but there is
no leg room.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

o3EVC,

Understood!

John