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Seeking 16" Wheels for 93 MVWK
ctrpoint2004
Good Morning,
I am looking for a set of VW (or others that would fit) 16" wheels to replace those on my 1993 MV Weekender, now fitted with the 15" wheels. Would consider with or without tires. Cosmetic condition unimportant. Contact Michael Scanlan at ctrpoint2004@... Thanks! |
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door locks (93 EV MV WE)
keithtracypierce
I bet they're all the same, but mine's a 93, with central locking,
but it's not a central locking question. The problem is that the passenger door won't stay unlocked. At first it seemed that the button simply 'fell' a bit when pulling the handle; I went back to the archives to find a recent post about a 'snubber' and electrical tape solution. The snubber must be the little fingers that center the lock knob in the trim plate; I tightened them and then discovered that the lock knob is actually PULLED downward when actuating the door handle (in or out). The door opens to the 'first notch', and any further manipulation just pulls the knob further down. I was in the door to replace the mirror and noticed that the lock motor had been disconnected (the door was just 'always locked' before, and holding the lock knob up enabled opening the door); I hoped connecting the motor would remedy. The motor is properly actuated by key or knob motion, both directions. But now that the motor's connected, if you fidget trying to open the door beyond that 'first notch' from the outside, eventually the button gets pulled down enough that it actuates the motor and you're locked out of the car, not good and probably why the motor was disconnected. Any ideas how to fix it? 2) similar subject: my sliding door unlocks and locks in response to either of the front door actuators, but unlocking the sliding door itself (from in or outside) has no effect on the front locks. Is this normal central locking behavior? (yes, the child safety latch is in danger! mode) saving my mirror diatribe for another post, Tracy |
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Re: door locks (93 EV MV WE)
First thing I would attempt to do is the lubricate the lock actuator as well
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as anything else in the area. I had a similar problem and I could see that when I attempted to unlock the EV by remote, the driver's door lock "knob" was a little slower to respond than all the others, which then caused the doors to relock. When I manually unlocked the driver's door with a key, all worked OK. I opened up the door panel and lubed everything that I thought could be affecting the lock. That repaired the locks; six months later, all is still OK. Bob W. In a message dated 6/21/2008 11:14:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
keithtracypierce@... writes: I bet they're all the same, but mine's a 93, with central locking, but it's not a central locking question. The problem is that the passenger door won't stay unlocked. At first it seemed that the button simply 'fell' a bit when pulling the handle; I went back to the archives to find a recent post about a 'snubber' and electrical tape solution. The snubber must be the little fingers that center the lock knob in the trim plate; I tightened them and then discovered that the lock knob is actually PULLED downward when actuating the door handle (in or out). The door opens to the 'first notch', and any further manipulation just pulls the knob further down. I was in the door to replace the mirror and noticed that the lock motor had been disconnected (the door was just 'always locked' before, and holding the lock knob up enabled opening the door); I hoped connecting the motor would remedy. The motor is properly actuated by key or knob motion, both directions. But now that the motor's connected, if you fidget trying to open the door beyond that 'first notch' from the outside, eventually the button gets pulled down enough that it actuates the motor and you're locked out of the car, not good and probably why the motor was disconnected. Any ideas how to fix it? 2) similar subject: my sliding door unlocks and locks in response to either of the front door actuators, but unlocking the sliding door itself (from in or outside) has no effect on the front locks. Is this normal central locking behavior? (yes, the child safety latch is in danger! mode) ****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. () |
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Re: OBD II/ VAG COM
Joe R
Here's the page at the Ross-tech (vag-com) site telling you why and how to fix it. Basically aftermarket radio's put 12 volts for the antenna on the "K" communication line.
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Joe R. ----- Original Message -----
From: billweiliii To: ev_update@... Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:19 PM Subject: [ev_update] Re: OBD II/ VAG COM Do you have an aftermarket radio? I had my EVC inspected after I bought it used & everything was fine with the ODBII, but then had a new stereo installed & the ODB port no longer worked. Check the archives for info on this, I think it was even in a VW service bulletin. When I went back to the radio installer, all he had to do was cut one line. Bill 01 EVC Rosa Blanco --- In ev_update@..., "vweuro00" <m_shea@...> wrote: > > my check engine light is on and i'm getting no signal to the OBD II > port. i checked the wires going to it. two of them are ground wires > that both have a good ground. one has 12v going to it and that one is > fine. the other is the gray/white wire. i'm not sure where that one > goes to. the bentley manual shows that it goes to the radio. that > doesn't seem right to me. at any rate, i'm two months past my > inspection now as i've been trying to figure this out. i'd love to get > any ideas. > thanks > mike > |
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Re: moving up from a 1999 Eurovan - correction, 1993
One of those days - I currently have a 1993 5 cylinder Eurovan, not a 1999.
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Dane --- On Sat, 6/21/08, Dane Walther <dane_s_walther@...> wrote:
From: Dane Walther <dane_s_walther@...> |
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Re: driving/fog lights
dave_king_ev
Thanks Bob.
--- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@... wrote: slow speed as part of the Neighborhood Watch program. The lights' pattern is very wide,probably 160 degrees, and short (less than 200 feet). The bulb is an H3,12v, 55w. Europarts-sd carries the bulb for $4.50.()
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driving/fog lights
dave_king_ev
Does anyone use the OEM lights? I see europarts sells them for about
$300 (without the switch and relay and wiring harnesses). You can buy toys in autoparts stores for $40 or you can buy good ones Hella or PIAA for $400-$1000. Here's a little reference info: Does anyone have any experience with the OEM (that fit perfectly in the bumper cover)? What kind of pattern do they have? What kind of bulb? What wattage? Are replacement bulbs a VW-only part? |
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Re: EVC Electrical Problem
jack_son_73
Jas -
I was trying to keep you from having to access the Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the rear power panel, & access requires removing the large plastic panel below the closet. The converter has an internal breaker similar/identical to the ones near the batteries. I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC 'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had 6A for charging house bat.] If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic cover to the left of luggage area, below closet. Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial] access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I will do the same. The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via converter], & front relay connect. Regards, Jack-son ======================== ---In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@..> wrote: through the air vents for the heater?wrote: the fusebattery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut-breakerinside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and forchecks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection enginedistribution? isUsuallyrunning (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rearbattery.A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. nutsaboutshould$20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. Therebe 3wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or <johnstamford@>toholding it to the wall. thebywrote: comecoachbattery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have 1)totheshoreline andconclusion that there is a relay the switches between thethe alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; IamIcorrect? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do help.changeit? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's |
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Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
Can't see why you would want to waste propane when the electicity while driving is free. I am of the opinion that operating the evc while the fridge gas is on is a safety hazard. Typically when driving I have the whole family on board and I would not risk their lives in this way. All horrible accidents usually happen when the hazard was ignored or 'we have done this safely before'. I don't like to see accounts of driving with the fridge gas on because they are a tacit advertisment that its ok, whereas in fact it is very dangerous.
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Jonathan 1999 EVC Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile -----Original Message-----
From: "Miles Koppersmith" <miles@...> Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 17:06:30 To:ev_update@... Subject: [ev_update] Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem) I disagree with your comments about the Norcold. Mine works so well that if I am not careful it will freeze things up. It has never failed to light in the 6 years I have had it except for one time when my house battery was almost dead and it did not have enough juice for the igniter to work. Also I have never cleaned out the burner box or anything else in the past 6 years. I always operate it on propane while driving and it has never gone out or quit. The only time I switch it from propane to electricity is if I am hooked up to electric power at a campground because doing so automatically cuts it off from propane and I have to switch it over to electric mode. I always turn it off when I stop for a fuel fillup (except for a few times when I forgot to turn it off) and it has always relit without hesitation. We have been all around the US from Key West to Seattle, from San Diego to Maryland, from South Texas to Mount Rushmore, and even circled around Lake Michigan. It works as well in the Colorado mountains as it does along the beach. No problems. Of course one thing I always do is make sure I park in a level spot whenever using it since several have said that not doing so may cause your burner to soot up. YMMV. :>) Miles Koppersmith 2002 EVC "Gadabout" --- In ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com, "forest flanigan" <creoflan@...> wrote: > > Hey Larry -- > > I have refilled at many stations that did not have a recovery system--in my > last camper (cab over on a pick up) I refueled all the way down the Baja > Peninsula with the propane on , and that camper had a "normal " fridge where > you could open the door on the outside and see the flame burning. In fact > thats how I had to light it ---my wife would hold the red button in and I > would put a flame to it. > > Again -I 'm not stating this is safe practice. This is a recommedation to > the writer that was losing to much battery. > > Jackson may have the right idea--pull the sucker out and put in one that > really works. Both Sportsmoble and GTRV put electrics in their rigs. > > As I have stated many times on this forum this is the worst designed propane > refer I have come across--and by far the hardest to maintain--I have had > mine out 4 times this week to get it ready for summer. I think that > Winnebago must have threatened Norcold into this design. Maybe saying --"if > you don't make it this way we will go elsewhere for our parts". Norcold > should have told them they would NOT build such a sh%^%tty unit so as to not > ruin their reputation. But in the era of the big boy's pushing us all around > that's not how business is done. It's a proven fact that companies make > different types of the same product for different stores. Iwanted to get > some T-shirts years ago to make some Chrstmas presents --bought some Haines > from K-mart and they were so thin that I couldn't use them --I went looking > for a better brand and wound up buying Haines --just not "the they made for > K-mart " as the seller said. Why would a good company that makes a good > product do this? > > Forest > with a finally working Norcold > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |
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Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
Miles Koppersmith
I disagree with your comments about the Norcold. Mine works so well
that if I am not careful it will freeze things up. It has never failed to light in the 6 years I have had it except for one time when my house battery was almost dead and it did not have enough juice for the igniter to work. Also I have never cleaned out the burner box or anything else in the past 6 years. I always operate it on propane while driving and it has never gone out or quit. The only time I switch it from propane to electricity is if I am hooked up to electric power at a campground because doing so automatically cuts it off from propane and I have to switch it over to electric mode. I always turn it off when I stop for a fuel fillup (except for a few times when I forgot to turn it off) and it has always relit without hesitation. We have been all around the US from Key West to Seattle, from San Diego to Maryland, from South Texas to Mount Rushmore, and even circled around Lake Michigan. It works as well in the Colorado mountains as it does along the beach. No problems. Of course one thing I always do is make sure I park in a level spot whenever using it since several have said that not doing so may cause your burner to soot up. YMMV. :>) Miles Koppersmith 2002 EVC "Gadabout" --- In ev_update@..., "forest flanigan" <creoflan@...> wrote: system--in my last camper (cab over on a pick up) I refueled all the way down theBaja Peninsula with the propane on , and that camper had a "normal "fridge where you could open the door on the outside and see the flame burning.In fact thats how I had to light it ---my wife would hold the red button inand I would put a flame to it.recommedation to the writer that was losing to much battery.that really works. Both Sportsmoble and GTRV put electrics in their rigs.designed propane refer I have come across--and by far the hardest to maintain--Ihave had mine out 4 times this week to get it ready for summer. I think thatsaying --"if you don't make it this way we will go elsewhere for our parts".Norcold should have told them they would NOT build such a sh%^%tty unit soas to not ruin their reputation. But in the era of the big boy's pushing usall around that's not how business is done. It's a proven fact that companiesmake different types of the same product for different stores. Iwantedto get some T-shirts years ago to make some Chrstmas presents --boughtsome Haines from K-mart and they were so thin that I couldn't use them --I wentlooking for a better brand and wound up buying Haines --just not "the theymade for K-mart " as the seller said. Why would a good company that makes agood product do this? |
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Re: moving up from a 1999 Eurovan
In a message dated 6/21/08 2:51:31 PM, dane_s_walther@... writes:
I've been considering selling my 1999 EV and getting a newer VR6 EurovanWhy? Unless you have over 150,000 miles on the '99, there isn't really much advantage to getting a 2002 or 2003 (last year made). The newer ones have the 24v engine, but they also seem to have more problems such as the transmission and ignition. They also have 16inch wheels and tires, which has some advantages but currently there are fewer tires available. Kent Kirkley '97EVC **** Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. () [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: driving/fog lights
In a message dated 6/21/08 2:49:27 PM, dave_king_ev@... writes:
In a message dated 6/21/2008 2:59:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,?Hmmmm.......I think those require energy to turn them on??dave_king_ev@... writes: That will surely impact your carbon footprint. :)) Kent **** Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. () [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: EVC Electrical Problem
jastamford
Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal
diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer... through the air vents for the heater? --- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@...> wrote: is shouldaboutrunning (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rearbattery.A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. Usually$20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There tobe 3wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nuts thewithrear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it abynon-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.wrote: THEN!thealtnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an Icoldgo ona trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge juicewhiledriving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any at14.5thebattery with the engine running and the alternator showed VDCtocoachoutput at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged thebattery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have cometheamshoreline andconclusion that there is a relay the switches between thethe alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1)Ichangecorrect? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do Iit? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help. |
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Re: OBD II/ VAG COM
gti_matt
Do you have an aftermarket radio? I had my EVC inspected after Ibought it used & everything was fine with the ODBII, but then had a new stereo installed & the ODB port no longer worked. Check the archives for info on this, I think it was even in a VW service bulletin. When I went back to the radio installer, all he had to do was cut one line. When I installed mine (bought from Crutchfield) it came with excellent instructions and yes there was one wire, called the K-line, that was not to be connected from the car's harness to the new radio. Read about it here: |
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