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jadrma1 wrote:

When I store my two foam mattresses along with the hinged platform
squished into the narrow space between the roof and the poptop it

seems

to be way too tight

No, don't do that! ;)

Unless, of course you are okay with putting way-too-much stress on
your poptop and fostering problems in short order.

Too tight is, in fact, TOO TIGHT!!

Someone mentioned ABS for the poptop material. Here is the actual
composition of the High Grade ABS:

The roof is BASF Luran庐聽S

"styrene acrylonitrile copolymers that have been impact-modified with
acrylic ester rubber"

Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"

Neil,

Find someone nearby with a Vag Com!

Stuart, in Seattle and have a Vag Com

I like this idea. I would start by bleeding the clutch line which
just takes a few minutes and visually inspect the components.

--- In ev_update@..., "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@...>
wrote:

Has to be a clutch problem. Anything from the master to the clutch

itself.

Could be a swollen (blocked) hose that is not allowing the throw-

out bearing

to retract or a bad master cylinder. I'd start with the

hydraulics,

easiest and cheapest first. When did you last replace the clutch?



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...]

On Behalf

Of hilary.veen
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 8:27 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] 5-speed transmission problems



Hi there,

We have a 1984 Diesel Eurovan (with Westfalia). Here's the problem:
As soon as we've been cruising on the highway for a while, but then
have to downshift to 4th to go up a hill, the gear shift goes into
spasm and we cannot shift after that into any gear, or we have to
force it, or stop at the side of the road, turn off the engine and
start again. Two different shops couldn't find anything. Does

anyone

know what it could be? We don't even want to drive the thing now!

Hilary





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I know there is no maintenance interval for the manual transmission
oil, but I would change it as long as you are fiddling around. Make
sure it is SAE 75W90 synthetic. Once you have the lower pan off for
your other work, it only takes a few minutes.

I have never had a VW van yet (and I have owned every model made) that
didn't shift better with a tranny oil change every few years. My 95 EVC
shifted stiffly when cold, but great when warm. I changed the oil using
Mobil 1 synthetic per the Bentley specs, and now it shifts like butter
always. From the odor of the old fluid, I think the oil in there was
dino oil not synthetic, although I have all of the cars records and no
oil change was apparent.

I also noticed in the Bentley on page K 34-23 thru 34-24 there is a
detailed description of linkage adjusting. It might be worth a peek at
that to make the linkage reassembly go smoother.

Let us know how things work out.

Pete

Has to be a clutch problem. Anything from the master to the clutch itself.
Could be a swollen (blocked) hose that is not allowing the throw-out bearing
to retract or a bad master cylinder. I'd start with the hydraulics,
easiest and cheapest first. When did you last replace the clutch?



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of hilary.veen
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 8:27 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] 5-speed transmission problems



Hi there,

We have a 1984 Diesel Eurovan (with Westfalia). Here's the problem:
As soon as we've been cruising on the highway for a while, but then
have to downshift to 4th to go up a hill, the gear shift goes into
spasm and we cannot shift after that into any gear, or we have to
force it, or stop at the side of the road, turn off the engine and
start again. Two different shops couldn't find anything. Does anyone
know what it could be? We don't even want to drive the thing now!

Hilary

Jack,



The bed is supposed to be left fully open for storage. This is a major
deficiency of the EVC design, but a necessary compromise to allow the van to
fit under a standard 7' garage door opening. The Vanagon Westy had the
space between the top and the body to allow the bed to fold in half for
storage (top rose up higher too), and still cleared a 7' garage door because
the van was not as tall.



I don't use the upper bunk, so it's in storage, and my memory foam topper
for the lower bed folds in half and fits in the space you are trying to
stuff the upper bunk into.



Don't do that anymore, you risk damaging the top and the hinges. The top is
ABS, not fiberglass, and can crack!



Stuart

'97 EVC



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of jadrma1
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 7:31 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Pop Top mattress storage question



When I store my two foam mattresses along with the hinged platform
squished into the narrow space between the roof and the poptop it seems
to be way too tight and I hear an occasional thumping noise as I drive
which I think is caused by the air-tightness of the poptop seal being
compromised towards the front of the poptop. When I don't store these
items in my '95 EVC the stange noise does not occur. Question, should
the hinged platform be fully extended and the two mattresses in the
sleeping position when driving? This would reduce the thickness
considerably. What is the proper way to store this equipment when
driving? -Jack

Jack,
According to my '95 Winnie-beggar manual, the hinged bed board has to
be flat, not folded double when the top is closed. Whether or not the
mattress can be left in place isn't perfectly clear as I read the
manual. Here is the text, you tell me:
"Important: The upper bed must be stored in the user position (flat)
for the pop-up roof to lower and latch properly. If you need extra
headroom while the roof is closed, remove the bed board and mattress
from the support rails before lowering the roof, then store in the rear
area or remove from the vehicle."

Now, I'd love to store the memory-foam mattress topper up top, but have
the same problem you mentioned with the top not closing fully. I have
considered installing some external latches to snug the top down and
compress the foam but it seems a bit kludgy. I'm interested in others'
opinions on this...

Ken in AK

--- In ev_update@..., "jadrma1" <jadrma@...> wrote:

When I store my two foam mattresses along with the hinged platform
squished into the narrow space between the roof and the poptop it

seems

to be way too tight... (snip) >

IIRC there are two nylon balls and a nylon bushing in the linkage on
top of the tranny. I've had the pleasure of only 3rd and 4th three
times, and I believe the order of failure was large ball, small ball,
bushing. There was at least a year or two between each failure. I
think Steve at Europarts sells a kit with all the pieces and
recommends replacing them all at once.

Replacing the components is not technically difficult, but access is a
bit of a pain and it can take some perseverance.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

When I store my two foam mattresses along with the hinged platform
squished into the narrow space between the roof and the poptop it seems
to be way too tight and I hear an occasional thumping noise as I drive
which I think is caused by the air-tightness of the poptop seal being
compromised towards the front of the poptop. When I don't store these
items in my '95 EVC the stange noise does not occur. Question, should
the hinged platform be fully extended and the two mattresses in the
sleeping position when driving? This would reduce the thickness
considerably. What is the proper way to store this equipment when
driving? -Jack

There is a snubber that ads friction to the button so the weight will
not let it slide down and actuate the locks. Wrap a little electrical
tape around the base of the plastic plunger. This will keep it from
dropping down by it's self.

揟hou believest that there is one God; Thou doest well . . .� James 2:19



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jack,

The top bunk should always be stored flat, opened out as when ready to
use. I don't have the Winnebago book with me at work right now, but I
believe this is the preferred way to keep the top bunk. You could also
remove both mattresses and store them in your attic during off season and
in that case you could leave the support portion of your upper bed folded
back to give you lots more headroom when not camping. Originally your top
bunk came enclosed in large clear, heavy-duty plastic bag for storage when
not in use.

That should take care of the problem for you. Regards,

John Harkins
[Dad's 2002 EVC currently for sale]

When you say it wouldn't turn over, do you mean you turn the key and nothing happens? The starter doesn't turn the engine?

Maybe a bad starter, or bad ignition switch?

There are so many problems that can cause misfires. I have been fighting this on my '99 GLS for around 8 months now.

If you have a bad speed sensor it should throw a code, and you will have problems with your speedometer. I replaced mine recently as the speedometer would stop working sometimes while going down the road. It was very easy to replace.

Use a spray bottle and mist the coil with the engine running and see if you get your rough running to return. You can also mist each plug wire.

Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk

I had a similar problem driver lock would go up and down untill you
pulled up the passenger lock, then windows went. in door wire harness
there were so many frayed wires, I tried to splice as many as I could
grab but eventually had new wire harness put in 500.00 and everything
works.

--- In ev_update@..., "B Feddish" <bfeddish@...> wrote:

Hey all... just recently my doors started to lock and unlock only

after

the van was started. Any ideas what could cause this?

- Thanks!

Check out my youtube video. I though I had a bad actuator but it

was the

wires in the door.







Thanks,
Bryan







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

for the past few months car has been running rough when ideling. and a
few times over the winter it would do it only after a hard rain. last
week it wouldnt start, new battery, just wouldnt turn over. after some
rest it started took it to VW. had codes PO400 EGR bad they think that
is the solenoid. PO300 and PO302 misfires. needs coil plugs and wires.
I am going to do the coil first as I have had that code in the past,
arcing. just dont have money to do all. also possiable speed sensor?
The car always started for them. but has done it on me 2 more times
while waiting for coil.

Question: Does the primary problem sound like it would be the
coil/plugs. Or would You try something else first. Check engine light
has come on and off for 6+ months, started only after rain then off
when dry now on after this problem 90% of time.....thanks for your
help....todd R.I. via Oregon

And if you do go to a dealer, avoid ones that act like this:




<;feature=related>
&amp;feature=related



(Love that video..)



Bryan

Hey all... just recently my doors started to lock and unlock only after
the van was started. Any ideas what could cause this?

- Thanks!

Check out my youtube video. I though I had a bad actuator but it was the
wires in the door.







Thanks,
Bryan

I can't say enough about the Eurovan as an overall family vehicle. I love
this thing. I have had mine almost a year now. You are going to either want
a GL or an MV (but not the MV Weekender). I have the MV and that's what I
was looking for since I camp in it sometimes. I was also holding out for
the sunroof and as a plus I got the heated seats. The heated seats are
priceless. They are one of those things you though you could live without
until you try them. :-) Watch all the car sites and try to get a good idea
of the price range you are looking for. I wanted an MV (preferably a 2003)
with less than 60K miles on it. I discovered the average price in my area
was about $18K for that vehicle. The same in a GLS would have been about
$15K and an MV Weekender wound have been about $23K. These are for vehicle
that SOLD, not for what they are listing them for. I saw plenty of MV
Weekenders for $30K+ and they are probably still for sale. I also was
really starting to want a 2003 because for some reason the prices were
almost the same for 2000 to 2003. Why get a vehicle that is even 4 years
older when the price was not much different. My vehicle has an extended
warranty that the original owner purchased. I would have bought an extended
powertrain warranty if it had not had one. As for a dealer, I would have
considered it but the ones that I found with the right prices were sold
already. The dealers van is going to come with a 2 year warranty so you are
going to pay more but you have a real VW warranty for 2 years, not an
aftermarket one. The prices were not too much higher at the dealer for the
GLS's and MV's, probably $1,500 more. The MW Weekenders though were about
$28K. You can only get 2003's now pre-certified and next year they're will
be none.



As for the Routan, I don't feel as others that it's going to be a junky
vehicle. I love VW's but I never felt VW was the pinnacle of low maintenance
high reliability cars. If I had not done allot of my own work and have a
cheap mechanic I would have had $2,500 in repairs over the last year. In my
opinion though, and I am totally making this up, is the Routan will be an
orphan as it's a stop gap for VW to have a van while they build their own
plants here and begin to build the microbus concept van that nobody in the
world wants except us. ;)



Feel free to p-mail me with any other search questions. I am not a mechanic
but did allot of homework before buying one of these last summer.



Bryan



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of chipcook1975
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 4:57 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Newbie Eurovan Questions



Hello - I own a 2005 JettaWagon TDI which I love, but my growing
family requires that I get a new car. In December, I will have three
kids (got two now). Have not figured a way to put three kids seats in
a 2005 JettaWagon!

I like the Eurovan - read lots of good (and bad) on its quality. I
guess I am in the market for a 2003, also looking at the Routan. I
don't like the idea of teh Routan not being a true German engineered
VW, and the fact I can get the same basic type model from the
Chrysler dealer and get it cheaper!

So - is the 2003 Eurovan pretty good on average for a family van?
Which model do I look for if I want the moonroof and heated seats?
Any plusses on buying the dealer VW certified ones (of which at the
time of this posting there are three to pick from on VW's website)?

Also, I know you guys and girls own other VW's. do the newer (2007
and later) VW Wagons in the US offer any more width in the rear seats
for accomadating three kids seats (two for 3 year olds, 1 for a
newborn).

Thanks!

Sam

BusFusion 2008 'the movie' part 1 is available now on youtube.com :
_
()

Cheers,

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
() )
_Frank Condelli & Associates_ ()
- Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
_Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_
()
_BusFusion_ () a VW Camper
camping event, Almonte, ON, June 12 ~ 15, 2008

Would someone mind describing how to replace the darn bushings

in the manual trans shifter...they were replaced about 20K ago
(by local indy), but today I suddenly had nothing but extreme play,
especially to the right, and access to 3rd and 4th gears only.

Sounds more like something came loose and not a bushing. It's really a matter of getting under the van and looking at the shifter rods and levers and seeing if something looks disconnected.

Which model do I look for if I want the moonroof and heated seats?

GLS or MV (but not MV Weekender or Camper - those have pop tops that would negate a moonroof). Pretty much anything w/o a pop top could be equipped with the (optional) moonroof.

Any plusses on buying the dealer VW certified ones (of which at the

time of this posting there are three to pick from on VW's website)?

Warranty. But you will pay dearly for one off of a dealer's lot.