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--- On Mon, 6/16/08, Joe R <jromas@...> wrote:

I think it means that it's not bad enough to trigger a CEL yet.

Other way around I believe. It's triggered but clearing the code is pending.

I am looking for 2000-03 EVGLS forward facing or swivel middle captains
chairs with shoulder harness seatbelts. Willing to buy and to pay
shipping. Any lead are appreciated.

Have you checked the wiring in the door or replaced the suspect
speaker yet? These radios outputs are protected from shorts and
opens by a feature known as a crowbar circuit. It prevents damage to
the amplifier from in these types of situations. The amplifier is
also designed to not drive the speakers to power and distortion
levels that would result in the type of speaker damage that might
result in a short. In other words it is unlikely that the radio is
at fault and more likely that the problem lies elsewhere. That
elsewhere is a widely experienced short and or open failure of the
wiring harness in the doors in the vicinity of the hinge. If I were
you I'd open the door, slide the rubber boot back and inspect the
wire harness. The insulation itself may not be broken on the wires
but the conductor inside may be broke. You can see this by flexing
the harness and looking for places where the wire kinks. If the
wires are already kinked, broken or frayed and shorting against each
other or the metal of the car, then you have your cause. Even if the
break or short is not immediately obvious you can't rule this failure
out. If necessary get a wiring diagram pull the plugs on each end
and ohm it out with a multimeter. If the harness is the problem they
are repairable but you are better off replacing it. This is a well
known problem that affects the locks, the windows, the mirrors and
the speakers. I took mine back to the dealer and insisted on free
replacement and they complied. Good luck!

IVAN
Therefore:
I am,
Dan


--- In ev_update@..., "Brian McLaughlin"
<mclaughlinbe@...> wrote:

Hi group,

A shorted speaker has taken out my factory Premium 5 stereo on my

2002 MV. If it is

cranked up all the way it still puts out a bit of sound, but

nothing you can really hear. I'd like

to fix it or replace it with the same thing. Can anyone a) refer me

to a place to get it fixed, b)

sell me your stereo that's been sitting in a box in the garage ever

since you upgraded to

something with a CD player, or c) suggest a source for the obsolete

Delco amp ICs that the

Premium 5 uses? Many thanks.

Brian
mclaughlinbe at yahoo dot com

I think it means that it's not bad enough to trigger a CEL yet.

Joe R

I have a factory radio that came out of our MVWK in the first week of
ownership and has been sitting in a box since then.
Its a brand "new" Premium 5, Mdel 1 J0 035 180 B. Manufacturing date
14 Feb 2002.

How does 75 plus shipping sound? - I need to verify that I find the
security code, but will confirm that before transaction.
Florian


--- In ev_update@..., "Brian McLaughlin"
<mclaughlinbe@...> wrote:

Hi group,

A shorted speaker has taken out my factory Premium 5 stereo on my

2002 MV. If it is

cranked up all the way it still puts out a bit of sound, but nothing

you can really hear. I'd like

to fix it or replace it with the same thing. Can anyone a) refer me

to a place to get it fixed, b)

sell me your stereo that's been sitting in a box in the garage ever

since you upgraded to

something with a CD player, or c) suggest a source for the obsolete

Delco amp ICs that the

Premium 5 uses? Many thanks.

Brian
mclaughlinbe at yahoo dot com

CEL on with the following codes:
P0302 Misfire Detected Cyl 2
P0440 Emission Control System Malfunction - Pending
P0304 Misfire Detected Cyl 4 - Pending
P0306 Misfire Detected Cyl 6 - Pending

My question is, What does "pending" mean here? Does it mean that the ECM is about to clear the codes with that label?

Paul in Pittsfield

1999 EVC for sale in New Hampshire. Email my husband
mattallison @ metrocast.net if you would like details.

Katrina

I know Sportsmobile offers a power top on their pop-tops, however they use a completely different mechanism and vehicle. But you could give them a call to see if there is any chance it could be adapted to the EVC.

Larry

Brian,
I had close to the same symtoms on my 03.
It was a bad socket, replaced under warranty , and no problem since.
Cheers,
Jess



--- In ev_update@..., "Brian McLaughlin"
<mclaughlinbe@...> wrote:

Hi group,

Got a perplexing but probably simple electrical problem on my 2002

MV for you all. It has to

do with my front left turn indicator. During the day it works fine.

At night, when I've turned

on the 'parking lights', it doesn't illuminate when I hang a left,

and I get a rapid blinking,

indicating there is a bulb out. There definitely isn't a bulb out,

and I've checked the socket for

good contact too. Thoughts? Thanks.

Brian
mclaughlinbe at yahoo dot com

Hi group,

Got a perplexing but probably simple electrical problem on my 2002 MV for you all. It has to
do with my front left turn indicator. During the day it works fine. At night, when I've turned
on the 'parking lights', it doesn't illuminate when I hang a left, and I get a rapid blinking,
indicating there is a bulb out. There definitely isn't a bulb out, and I've checked the socket for
good contact too. Thoughts? Thanks.

Brian
mclaughlinbe at yahoo dot com

Hi group,

A shorted speaker has taken out my factory Premium 5 stereo on my 2002 MV. If it is
cranked up all the way it still puts out a bit of sound, but nothing you can really hear. I'd like
to fix it or replace it with the same thing. Can anyone a) refer me to a place to get it fixed, b)
sell me your stereo that's been sitting in a box in the garage ever since you upgraded to
something with a CD player, or c) suggest a source for the obsolete Delco amp ICs that the
Premium 5 uses? Many thanks.

Brian
mclaughlinbe at yahoo dot com

Today when I went to drive our 2001 MV with 105K, I noticed the EPC
(Engine Electronic Power Control) and the ESP (Electronic
Stabilization Program) lights did not go out. The only symptom I
noticed was a very distinct loss of power starting out. Once we got
going, It drove fine. The manual says to contact the dealer (2 hours
away). We do have a non dealer VW repair shop 45 minutes away. How
serious is this, and what needs to be done?

Gary E.

I agree. I put Wet Okole on my rear seat and it folds down fine. They are really nice seat
covers. I got them for the front also. The only drawback is they are damper due to
perspiration in hot weather. But I think it is worth it for the protection.

--- In ev_update@..., "Ed Brady" <electicamp@...> wrote:

I did a search for Wet Okole and found some good information. We have a German

Shepherd

(German Shedder?) and I believe the Wet Okoles would be a good choice. Here is my
question. If we add Wet Okole covers will the rear seat still work smoothly when making

up

the bed in our EVC?

I also did a search for power tops and found nothing. Does anyone know of a

modification to

electrically raise and lower the top? Lots of custom convertibles and other custom cars

are

being made with power operated gadgets, so I bet it is possible, but has anyone tried it?

Thanks

Ed Brady

No problems at all with my EVC's Wet Okole covers, bed-wise. Everything works the same. In fact, they actually add a bit more comfort (not as much as an extra superfoam pad might, but some.) Dog hairs are still a problem for us, but they do come off the covers a bit easier than the seat fabric. Black shows the worst!

No idea on roof lifting, but anything is possible...

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

I did a search for Wet Okole and found some good information. We have a German Shepherd
(German Shedder?) and I believe the Wet Okoles would be a good choice. Here is my
question. If we add Wet Okole covers will the rear seat still work smoothly when making up
the bed in our EVC?

I also did a search for power tops and found nothing. Does anyone know of a modification to
electrically raise and lower the top? Lots of custom convertibles and other custom cars are
being made with power operated gadgets, so I bet it is possible, but has anyone tried it?

Thanks

Ed Brady

I just got a 2005 Rialta about 2 months ago. I've read about the
tranny heating problems here and several other places. In my quest to
see where I stand I installed a Scangauge. During steady-state
driving, the temp stays around 222 F at OAT around 100 F. In city
traffic, it sometimes hits 230-240 F. Since I was concerned that this
was way too high, I fired off an email to the folks at Pentosin about
the ATF1 that is used in my transmission. Here's part of the reply:

"Also very important is the following rule of thumb which is backed by
a theoretical equation of chemistry: an increase of 10°C means a
doubling of the reaction velocity. Here it would be the breakdown
speed. That means: the temperature of 100°C of the oil in the oil pan
does not do the oil any harm. At 200°C the break down speed is ca.
1000 times higher. 2>10=1024. The oil can reach temperatures of 250 to
280°C when passing through a clutch. It is a severe stress but the oil
is still ok afterwards as it is being mixed in the oil pan with
"fresh" oil and that way is regenerated. Therefore: only a small oil
volume has been stressed for a very short time in the clutch. ATF1 is
a life time oil. Minimum mileage required by ZF is 200,000 km."

In reading back posts, it appears that at some point that 10 degree C
became 10 degree F and that the baseline became 175 F instead of 212 F
(100 C). It would really be each 18 degree F change that causes a
halving of life expectancy. Since "lifetime" seems to mean 200,000 km
(124k miles), if I run at 230 C I should change fluid about every 62k
miles. If it runs 240 F, then every 31k miles, so 40k miles seems to
be a happy (?) medium.

Does anyone know where the tranny temp is actually measured? Is it
internal or at the pan? Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Duane

Need help determining fair value for a 1997 EVC that runs just fine
with 130,000 and no mechanical problems. A few blems in the paint
that are being fixed in the first week of July.

Thanks

Michael
616-240-6576
michaelwalenta@...

--- On Sat, 6/14/08, Sea2river@... <Sea2river@...> wrote:

Sounds normal to me. But I am curious as to why a guy who has sold his van is asking the question.

:-) The buyer noticed it being kinda loose and asked me about it specifically and I just said that it always did it and the door still functioned fine but it was one of those things that was bugging me in the head...sort of a "inquiring minds want to know" thing to know if it was typical or atypical of Eurovans.

The sliding door on both my 93 and 01 Weekenders seemed floppy but always
closed tightly. I think yours is normal.

Bob W.

The 2001-2003 utilizes 91-octane best. VW recommends ATF changes every 40k
miles; changing fluid at that interval can only help extend the life of the
transmission.

Bob W.