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Pat, it is too bad you just missed the big discussion we had on changing the transmission fluid. Unfortunately when there are 400 responses to a subject (many of them digressions) it is impossible for the Yahoo Group search function to you get to the gist of the subject. And, I cannot imagine anyone having the patience to actually read all those posts (I know I didn't). But, since your EVC has 110K mi and you don't know if the transmission fluid has been changed, I think it is safe to say that the majority of posters here would recommend that you have the ATF fluid flushed ASAP.

There are instructions in the Files section for doing it yourself. If you are not a DIY person you need to find a shop that can do it for you.  Hopefully others will add the details for what the job actually requires to be done correctly.

Larry
LA, CA

Why not use the built in coach battery charger to charge both
batteries. I assume this would require the jumper to allow current to
flow into the vehicle battery.

Rob

Has anyone in the Denver area purchased and installed on a 01-03 EVC
the tire solution sold by Go Westy?


id=3843&category_id=145&category_parent_id=

Just trying to find a shop in my area who can install and do the wheel
alignment?

And/Or has anyone else gone this route and what are your thoughts about
this solution?

Thx, Sam/2003 EVC - Denver CO

Gerry,

You were replying to a message nearly 9 years old!

You can see a few photos here:


We sold quite a few of these back then, but not many the last few
years. I may only have 1 long rail for the EVC remaining and no real
way to ship it. It's too long to ship by UPS, FedEx, or DHL. You can
use roof racks on these gutters. I even hang an awning from the gutter
on my Weekender.

Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk

This topic came up in Feb., I think. At the time, I suggested an option

Here's the link:



I don't have any affiliation with the vendor, nor have I seen this
product first hand.

Thanks,
Gerry

Mike -

On the EVC, the combiner relay is operated by
the ignition key - with or w/o engine running.
To confirm this on your van, compare voltage
readings on each side of relay, then do same
with key on - but engine off. I think you will
see them equal - within ~0.1V. You can also
check for voltage on small center relay coil
terminal, when key is on.

I often use the 'Key On' to transfer power
into the weaker battery [setting hand brake to
turn off headlights]. I often connect trickle
charger to the relay terminals - one or both.
I plan to add a 1' lead with Twin-Bullet
connectors, to give small charger access to
either battery, w/o removing battery cover
for relay access.

You can equalize batteries without wasting
relay power with an alligator clip lead jumper
between the two large relay terminals. [This
clip lead is also needed when engine battery
is too low to operate the relay. If the lead
is too small to carry much current, clip it
from the small relay coil terminal to the
higher V of the 2 large terminals, with key
OFF. Remove jumper before cranking engine, as
the relay is un-energized during cranking.]

I equalize the batteries for a few minutes
before using a small 'jumper battery' to
assist starting.

Jack_son

===============================================
--In ev_update@..., "tornadokc247" <mdobbs@...> wrote:

Does a trickle charger connected to the main battery result in the
coach battery also being charged or do I need to run a separate

charger

for each battery?

Thanks,

Mike.

These "gutters" sound interesting, but I can't find a pic or description. The only roof-rack
type gutters I'd seen were really not gutters, but short lengths of gutter-like bracket used
to mount accessories (i.e., roof racks) that ordinarily work only on cars with rain gutters.
Thule and others make these.

For my situation, I bought (not yet installed) a Thule track system that gets bolted and
sealed to the top of the roof. Very low profile (1/4" high) and allows sliding the roof rack
"foot" anywhere on the 5' length. I've seen pics from others and it looks like a very clean,
factory-type install, unlike the stubby "gutters" that can also be used to do about the
same thing.

Thanks,
Gerry

How do I remove the metal piece holding the bracket that holds the
window shade in place over the galley? I can't get a bent screwdriver
in there. Also, I have purchased new brackets but the old broken ones
are riveted to metal piece that hold them in place.

Thanks,
Les

That would be my conclusion. Either the sensor is bad or the
connection to the sensor is so corroded that the wiring is not picking
up the circuit through the sensor when it closes in both its positions
(I suppose you would have noticed excessive corrosion during your
jumper tests).



--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@...> wrote:

Dave, I don't think the fans are activating at low, medium and high
speeds like they should be. I jumped the wires that plug into the
coolant temperature sensor on the passenger side of the radiator and
both fans function properly at low and medium speeds. When I start
the vehicle and let it warm up I have not witnessed the fans activating
on low, medium and high speeds. If the fans function properly but they
do not activate when the vehicle gets hot, does that mean I have a bad
coolant temperature sensor?

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@>
wrote:

I didn't ask the question clearly, or you didn't answer clearly, or
both. Let's try again:

The fans have three speeds. Low, medium, high. They always run
together (eg, both low, or both medium, or both high, or both off).

Does that describe your fans?


--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@> wrote:

Hi Dave,

I dont think my fans are running at different speeds. It seems

like

they are only running at a single speed. Both fans are

opperating at

the same speed. Any advice for testing the multiple fan speeds?

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@>
wrote:

If your radiator cap is leaking you'd know it. It's sealed by

a

big

o-ring (over 1" diameter) in the well of the overflow tank.

The

o-ring seals long before the cap is screwed down all the way.

Either

the tank holds pressure or it doesn't. Don't waste your time

on a

new

one unless you notice the tank failing to hold pressure.

Do the fans always run together? Do they change speeds? What

are

your observations?



--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@> wrote:

--- campbellmeister <campbellmeister@> wrote:

Hello All,
I recently purchased an EV GL with 90,000 miles on it

and I

am

loving

this thing. Unfortunately I am having an issue with the

cooling

system.

At random times while driving on city streets, the temp

light

begins to

blink and the temp gauge needle begins to climb. The

needle

does

not

climb all the way to the top of the meter but it gets

close

enough to

make me concerned. Like clockwork, the light stops

blinking

and

the

needle begins to plummet back to normal operating

temperatures.

My

cooling fans are operational and there is fluid in my

overflow

reservoir. I was thinking that this might be a sticking

thermostat. Any

advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not overly suspicious of the thermostat myself. T-

stats

usually fail in one of two

ways...either fully open (engine usually never fully warms

up

unless car isn't moving and is

idling but cools down...way down...after car is moving

again)

or

it sticks fully closed, in which

case the car would overheat and the fans would usually not

come on

since the water in the radiator

is still cool and isolated from the hot engine circuit.

It might be a thermostat if it's opening, but just not

fully

opening and therefore only partially

restricting water flow, but I've never really seen them

fail

that

way myself.

I would instead suspect the lower-speeds fan circuit.

Although

you said the fans are coming on,

are they coming on only in the highest speed? That might

be

the

case...the lower speeds aren't

happening and so the coolant heats up and only the highest

speed,

triggered by the thermoswitch

sensing the coolant getting very hot, so that's why you

see it

get

close to overheating.

Thanks for your responses. I will go agahead and try the new
radiator cap. As for the fan speeds, I am not totally sure

how

to

check the fan speeds. I know that when the AC is running the

fans

are both operating at the same speed. Do you know a simple

way

to

check the fan speeds? I've read about a way to close the

circuts

on

certain sensors and the fans will operate at different

speeds.

I'll

probably go through those checks this weekend unless someone

has

an

easier way to check the three fan speeds.

Well...that depends on how he has been behaving. Usually we call him
the VAN but when he has been bad, you got it...the DAMN VAN!

Grins,
Norby 99 EVC 140k all on reg

Just bought a set of Nokian Z tire. This is a summer tire in the proper load (102 XL). So far,
so good. Got them from Tire Factory.

Thanks,
Gerry

That sounds to me as if you would need to tighten it up a bit. I think
there is a file in the files section describing adjusting the
westfalia poptop.
Florian
03 MVWK

The sticker pictured in the photo is similar to the one in the
doorjamb of my 2002 EVC. But I have an additional sticker inside the
front cover of my Winnebago EVC owner's manual, and that sticker
specifies cold inflation pressures of 49 PSI front and rear for my
225/60R16 102H tires.

Doorjamb sticker
44F/38R fully loaded vehicle
38F/29R lightly loaded vehicle

Winnebago sticker
49F/49R
see

So which tire pressure recommendation is the right one?

David
'02 EVC



--- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@... wrote:

Mike,

I recall that picture of the sticker; it belongs to one adored 2001
Weekender: Mine.

If on the 93 EV there is only one set of numbers, it is safe to

assume that

the numbers refer to a fully loaded EV. It would be criminal to post

lightly

loaded pressures alone.


However, if one chooses to ignore the numbers and inflate the tire

up to the

tires maximum pressure, it can only harm the suspension and the

occupants'

kidneys.

Bob

In a message dated 3/6/2008 10:46:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
mccarthy_mg@... writes:

I've got three stickers in front of me. My 93 EV and my 95 Rialta do
not show two sets of numbers (eg, lightly loaded and loaded). Rather,
they both show just one set: 43/48 (front/rear) for the EV and 50/57
(front/rear) for the Rialta.

Then, there's this sticker:
_
()
That's the mother of all stickers as far as I know. It's got FOUR sets
of numbers.

I think -- not sure though -- that stickers with multiple sets (eg,
lightly loaded and loaded) and the duplicate sets (eg, lightly loaded
and loaded, and for different size tires) did not show up until 1997

or

later.






****It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. ()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In ev_update@..., "Ron" <ronsd@...> wrote:

The coach battery would not get any charge. It's connected to the
starting battery through an isolation relay that's open when the
engine's off. This is so you can use the energy in the coach battery
without running down the starting battery. I don't think that just
turning on the key causes the relay to close - I think the engine

has

to be running.

Ron,

In the EVC, the isolation relay is closed when the ignition switch is
in the "run" position. When the key is turned to the "start" position
the isolation relay drops out. This is to prevent the vehicle and
coach batteries from being connected together during engine cranking.
The wire and circuit breaker and/or fuse between the two would never
withstand the starting current.

A simple trick to charge the vehicle battery while plugged into the
shore line would be to take a short jumper with clips on each end and
connect it to the thin wire terminal on the isolation relay and the
+12 volt input to the relay. The isolation relay would then be
energized and both batteries would be connected together and would be
charged at the same time.

Richard Cox
2002HD Rialta
former '95 & '97 EVC

www.wetokole.com makes awesome custom fit perfect fitting seat
covers. I have been verry pleased with mine water proof with 3 kids
and they make one that fits my rear bench in my 03 EVMV lots of
colors and piping options and decals!check it out. Had mine for
almost 5 years and they still look great though I may warn you fruit
punch does not come out of grey!






--- In ev_update@..., "cactuspaws" <awaytome@...> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., "julietwiscombe"
<julietwiscombe@> wrote:

We would like to get rear seat covers and were surprised that they
were not easier to find given how many van accessories are out

there.

We found a vinyl cover that goes over the rear cushion but so

far, no

rear seat cover. As we have 2 kids and a dog and want to make

this

van last a long time, seat covers are essential. Anyone know

where to

find seat covers without having to have them custom made?

I just installed a back seat cover in my 2002 Weekender and thought
you might be interested in my experience. Unfortunately, I didn't

buy

from EuroCampers though the price was about what was quoted here. I
had searched their site and didn't find seat covers (but I did buy
their rubber floor mats which are great). I think you can get a
discount from them as a member of this group but I ordered before
finding that bit of information so missed out. Anyway, while this

seat

cover is well made and of good quality, it isn't at all what I

wanted

- which was something easy to put on and take off for washing. I

have

three dogs that go everywhere with me.

The cover is actually in two parts, one for the seat, one for the

seat

back. The fabric is a velour-type backed with foam so it doesn't

slide

easily against the existing seat fabric and both pieces need to be
shoved between the seat/back and tied off in numerous places. It
wasn't easy and took me about 50 minutes to put them on. I was told
this fabric is what pet owners usually ordered and that it is

washable

but now I'm wondering if that meant spot washing - not
toss-it-in-the-washer washing. It fits nicely, but I had to cut

slots

into the cover so the seat back will connect with the brackets, and
the handles are covered but still operational. I'd have to cut holes
for the headrests if I used them, too.

I previously made a simple cover out of heavy ripstop nylon that
stayed on with elastic loops but it wore out two years ago. It

worked

pretty well though it tended to slip around if the dogs were moving

a

lot so there was still some hair and dirt getting through. I've also
used a full sized fitted bottom sheet that covered well but wasn't
useful when the dogs were wet.

This seat cover won't be as easy to clean as either of my previous
covers but I guess the good thing is I won't have to worry about
ruining the original seat fabric. Oh well.

Karen

The coach battery would not get any charge. It's connected to the
starting battery through an isolation relay that's open when the
engine's off. This is so you can use the energy in the coach battery
without running down the starting battery. I don't think that just
turning on the key causes the relay to close - I think the engine has
to be running.

Dave, I don't think the fans are activating at low, medium and high
speeds like they should be. I jumped the wires that plug into the
coolant temperature sensor on the passenger side of the radiator and
both fans function properly at low and medium speeds. When I start
the vehicle and let it warm up I have not witnessed the fans activating
on low, medium and high speeds. If the fans function properly but they
do not activate when the vehicle gets hot, does that mean I have a bad
coolant temperature sensor?

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...>
wrote:

I didn't ask the question clearly, or you didn't answer clearly, or
both. Let's try again:

The fans have three speeds. Low, medium, high. They always run
together (eg, both low, or both medium, or both high, or both off).

Does that describe your fans?


--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@> wrote:

Hi Dave,

I dont think my fans are running at different speeds. It seems

like

they are only running at a single speed. Both fans are

opperating at

the same speed. Any advice for testing the multiple fan speeds?

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@>
wrote:

If your radiator cap is leaking you'd know it. It's sealed by

a

big

o-ring (over 1" diameter) in the well of the overflow tank.

The

o-ring seals long before the cap is screwed down all the way.

Either

the tank holds pressure or it doesn't. Don't waste your time

on a

new

one unless you notice the tank failing to hold pressure.

Do the fans always run together? Do they change speeds? What

are

your observations?



--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@> wrote:

--- campbellmeister <campbellmeister@> wrote:

Hello All,
I recently purchased an EV GL with 90,000 miles on it

and I

am

loving

this thing. Unfortunately I am having an issue with the

cooling

system.

At random times while driving on city streets, the temp

light

begins to

blink and the temp gauge needle begins to climb. The

needle

does

not

climb all the way to the top of the meter but it gets

close

enough to

make me concerned. Like clockwork, the light stops

blinking

and

the

needle begins to plummet back to normal operating

temperatures.

My

cooling fans are operational and there is fluid in my

overflow

reservoir. I was thinking that this might be a sticking

thermostat. Any

advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not overly suspicious of the thermostat myself. T-

stats

usually fail in one of two

ways...either fully open (engine usually never fully warms

up

unless car isn't moving and is

idling but cools down...way down...after car is moving

again)

or

it sticks fully closed, in which

case the car would overheat and the fans would usually not

come on

since the water in the radiator

is still cool and isolated from the hot engine circuit.

It might be a thermostat if it's opening, but just not

fully

opening and therefore only partially

restricting water flow, but I've never really seen them

fail

that

way myself.

I would instead suspect the lower-speeds fan circuit.

Although

you said the fans are coming on,

are they coming on only in the highest speed? That might

be

the

case...the lower speeds aren't

happening and so the coolant heats up and only the highest

speed,

triggered by the thermoswitch

sensing the coolant getting very hot, so that's why you

see it

get

close to overheating.

Thanks for your responses. I will go agahead and try the new
radiator cap. As for the fan speeds, I am not totally sure

how

to

check the fan speeds. I know that when the AC is running the

fans

are both operating at the same speed. Do you know a simple

way

to

check the fan speeds? I've read about a way to close the

circuts

on

certain sensors and the fans will operate at different

speeds.

I'll

probably go through those checks this weekend unless someone

has

an

easier way to check the three fan speeds.

Sorry, didn't think there would be differences...this is for an '02
Weekender...not the Camper.



--- In ev_update@..., David Richoux <tubaman@...> wrote:

If you are asking about an EVC, I think (but am not totally sure)
that the key would have to be on for that to work. I do know that

the

coach battery has to be disconnected before doing an individual
external recharge, to prevent possible damage to the normal coach
charging system. The other, easier - but much slower - way to re-
charge the coach battery is to just plug in the "Shore power" AC

and

let the built-in charger do it. That will NOT recharge your

starter

battery - use the trickle charger for that.

If your external charger has a "deep cycle" setting, use that for

the

coach battery.

Dave Richoux


On Jun 9, 2008, at 2:51 PM, tornadokc247 wrote:

Does a trickle charger connected to the main battery result in the
coach battery also being charged or do I need to run a separate
charger
for each battery?

Thanks,

Mike.


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I have an 03. Be sure the sliding hooks are not binding at the top
rail. I have had that problem.



--- In ev_update@..., "tornadokc247" <mdobbs@...> wrote:

The side door window curtain on my '02 weekender does not seem to

fully

cover the window. In fact, it can't reach all the way across to

the

metal closure snap on the door pillar.

Is this true for all Weekenders or do I have mixed up curtain?

Is there a non-dealer source for the right size curtain?

Thanks,

Mike

If you are asking about an EVC, I think (but am not totally sure) that the key would have to be on for that to work. I do know that the coach battery has to be disconnected before doing an individual external recharge, to prevent possible damage to the normal coach charging system. The other, easier - but much slower - way to re- charge the coach battery is to just plug in the "Shore power" AC and let the built-in charger do it. That will NOT recharge your starter battery - use the trickle charger for that.

If your external charger has a "deep cycle" setting, use that for the coach battery.

Dave Richoux