开云体育

The sticker pictured in the photo is similar to the one in the
doorjamb of my 2002 EVC. But I have an additional sticker inside the
front cover of my Winnebago EVC owner's manual, and that sticker
specifies cold inflation pressures of 49 PSI front and rear for my
225/60R16 102H tires.

Doorjamb sticker
44F/38R fully loaded vehicle
38F/29R lightly loaded vehicle

Winnebago sticker
49F/49R
see

So which tire pressure recommendation is the right one?

David
'02 EVC



--- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@... wrote:

Mike,

I recall that picture of the sticker; it belongs to one adored 2001
Weekender: Mine.

If on the 93 EV there is only one set of numbers, it is safe to

assume that

the numbers refer to a fully loaded EV. It would be criminal to post

lightly

loaded pressures alone.


However, if one chooses to ignore the numbers and inflate the tire

up to the

tires maximum pressure, it can only harm the suspension and the

occupants'

kidneys.

Bob

In a message dated 3/6/2008 10:46:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
mccarthy_mg@... writes:

I've got three stickers in front of me. My 93 EV and my 95 Rialta do
not show two sets of numbers (eg, lightly loaded and loaded). Rather,
they both show just one set: 43/48 (front/rear) for the EV and 50/57
(front/rear) for the Rialta.

Then, there's this sticker:
_
()
That's the mother of all stickers as far as I know. It's got FOUR sets
of numbers.

I think -- not sure though -- that stickers with multiple sets (eg,
lightly loaded and loaded) and the duplicate sets (eg, lightly loaded
and loaded, and for different size tires) did not show up until 1997

or

later.






****It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. ()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In ev_update@..., "Ron" <ronsd@...> wrote:

The coach battery would not get any charge. It's connected to the
starting battery through an isolation relay that's open when the
engine's off. This is so you can use the energy in the coach battery
without running down the starting battery. I don't think that just
turning on the key causes the relay to close - I think the engine

has

to be running.

Ron,

In the EVC, the isolation relay is closed when the ignition switch is
in the "run" position. When the key is turned to the "start" position
the isolation relay drops out. This is to prevent the vehicle and
coach batteries from being connected together during engine cranking.
The wire and circuit breaker and/or fuse between the two would never
withstand the starting current.

A simple trick to charge the vehicle battery while plugged into the
shore line would be to take a short jumper with clips on each end and
connect it to the thin wire terminal on the isolation relay and the
+12 volt input to the relay. The isolation relay would then be
energized and both batteries would be connected together and would be
charged at the same time.

Richard Cox
2002HD Rialta
former '95 & '97 EVC

www.wetokole.com makes awesome custom fit perfect fitting seat
covers. I have been verry pleased with mine water proof with 3 kids
and they make one that fits my rear bench in my 03 EVMV lots of
colors and piping options and decals!check it out. Had mine for
almost 5 years and they still look great though I may warn you fruit
punch does not come out of grey!






--- In ev_update@..., "cactuspaws" <awaytome@...> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., "julietwiscombe"
<julietwiscombe@> wrote:

We would like to get rear seat covers and were surprised that they
were not easier to find given how many van accessories are out

there.

We found a vinyl cover that goes over the rear cushion but so

far, no

rear seat cover. As we have 2 kids and a dog and want to make

this

van last a long time, seat covers are essential. Anyone know

where to

find seat covers without having to have them custom made?

I just installed a back seat cover in my 2002 Weekender and thought
you might be interested in my experience. Unfortunately, I didn't

buy

from EuroCampers though the price was about what was quoted here. I
had searched their site and didn't find seat covers (but I did buy
their rubber floor mats which are great). I think you can get a
discount from them as a member of this group but I ordered before
finding that bit of information so missed out. Anyway, while this

seat

cover is well made and of good quality, it isn't at all what I

wanted

- which was something easy to put on and take off for washing. I

have

three dogs that go everywhere with me.

The cover is actually in two parts, one for the seat, one for the

seat

back. The fabric is a velour-type backed with foam so it doesn't

slide

easily against the existing seat fabric and both pieces need to be
shoved between the seat/back and tied off in numerous places. It
wasn't easy and took me about 50 minutes to put them on. I was told
this fabric is what pet owners usually ordered and that it is

washable

but now I'm wondering if that meant spot washing - not
toss-it-in-the-washer washing. It fits nicely, but I had to cut

slots

into the cover so the seat back will connect with the brackets, and
the handles are covered but still operational. I'd have to cut holes
for the headrests if I used them, too.

I previously made a simple cover out of heavy ripstop nylon that
stayed on with elastic loops but it wore out two years ago. It

worked

pretty well though it tended to slip around if the dogs were moving

a

lot so there was still some hair and dirt getting through. I've also
used a full sized fitted bottom sheet that covered well but wasn't
useful when the dogs were wet.

This seat cover won't be as easy to clean as either of my previous
covers but I guess the good thing is I won't have to worry about
ruining the original seat fabric. Oh well.

Karen

The coach battery would not get any charge. It's connected to the
starting battery through an isolation relay that's open when the
engine's off. This is so you can use the energy in the coach battery
without running down the starting battery. I don't think that just
turning on the key causes the relay to close - I think the engine has
to be running.

Dave, I don't think the fans are activating at low, medium and high
speeds like they should be. I jumped the wires that plug into the
coolant temperature sensor on the passenger side of the radiator and
both fans function properly at low and medium speeds. When I start
the vehicle and let it warm up I have not witnessed the fans activating
on low, medium and high speeds. If the fans function properly but they
do not activate when the vehicle gets hot, does that mean I have a bad
coolant temperature sensor?

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...>
wrote:

I didn't ask the question clearly, or you didn't answer clearly, or
both. Let's try again:

The fans have three speeds. Low, medium, high. They always run
together (eg, both low, or both medium, or both high, or both off).

Does that describe your fans?


--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@> wrote:

Hi Dave,

I dont think my fans are running at different speeds. It seems

like

they are only running at a single speed. Both fans are

opperating at

the same speed. Any advice for testing the multiple fan speeds?

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@>
wrote:

If your radiator cap is leaking you'd know it. It's sealed by

a

big

o-ring (over 1" diameter) in the well of the overflow tank.

The

o-ring seals long before the cap is screwed down all the way.

Either

the tank holds pressure or it doesn't. Don't waste your time

on a

new

one unless you notice the tank failing to hold pressure.

Do the fans always run together? Do they change speeds? What

are

your observations?



--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@> wrote:

--- campbellmeister <campbellmeister@> wrote:

Hello All,
I recently purchased an EV GL with 90,000 miles on it

and I

am

loving

this thing. Unfortunately I am having an issue with the

cooling

system.

At random times while driving on city streets, the temp

light

begins to

blink and the temp gauge needle begins to climb. The

needle

does

not

climb all the way to the top of the meter but it gets

close

enough to

make me concerned. Like clockwork, the light stops

blinking

and

the

needle begins to plummet back to normal operating

temperatures.

My

cooling fans are operational and there is fluid in my

overflow

reservoir. I was thinking that this might be a sticking

thermostat. Any

advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not overly suspicious of the thermostat myself. T-

stats

usually fail in one of two

ways...either fully open (engine usually never fully warms

up

unless car isn't moving and is

idling but cools down...way down...after car is moving

again)

or

it sticks fully closed, in which

case the car would overheat and the fans would usually not

come on

since the water in the radiator

is still cool and isolated from the hot engine circuit.

It might be a thermostat if it's opening, but just not

fully

opening and therefore only partially

restricting water flow, but I've never really seen them

fail

that

way myself.

I would instead suspect the lower-speeds fan circuit.

Although

you said the fans are coming on,

are they coming on only in the highest speed? That might

be

the

case...the lower speeds aren't

happening and so the coolant heats up and only the highest

speed,

triggered by the thermoswitch

sensing the coolant getting very hot, so that's why you

see it

get

close to overheating.

Thanks for your responses. I will go agahead and try the new
radiator cap. As for the fan speeds, I am not totally sure

how

to

check the fan speeds. I know that when the AC is running the

fans

are both operating at the same speed. Do you know a simple

way

to

check the fan speeds? I've read about a way to close the

circuts

on

certain sensors and the fans will operate at different

speeds.

I'll

probably go through those checks this weekend unless someone

has

an

easier way to check the three fan speeds.

Sorry, didn't think there would be differences...this is for an '02
Weekender...not the Camper.



--- In ev_update@..., David Richoux <tubaman@...> wrote:

If you are asking about an EVC, I think (but am not totally sure)
that the key would have to be on for that to work. I do know that

the

coach battery has to be disconnected before doing an individual
external recharge, to prevent possible damage to the normal coach
charging system. The other, easier - but much slower - way to re-
charge the coach battery is to just plug in the "Shore power" AC

and

let the built-in charger do it. That will NOT recharge your

starter

battery - use the trickle charger for that.

If your external charger has a "deep cycle" setting, use that for

the

coach battery.

Dave Richoux


On Jun 9, 2008, at 2:51 PM, tornadokc247 wrote:

Does a trickle charger connected to the main battery result in the
coach battery also being charged or do I need to run a separate
charger
for each battery?

Thanks,

Mike.


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I have an 03. Be sure the sliding hooks are not binding at the top
rail. I have had that problem.



--- In ev_update@..., "tornadokc247" <mdobbs@...> wrote:

The side door window curtain on my '02 weekender does not seem to

fully

cover the window. In fact, it can't reach all the way across to

the

metal closure snap on the door pillar.

Is this true for all Weekenders or do I have mixed up curtain?

Is there a non-dealer source for the right size curtain?

Thanks,

Mike

If you are asking about an EVC, I think (but am not totally sure) that the key would have to be on for that to work. I do know that the coach battery has to be disconnected before doing an individual external recharge, to prevent possible damage to the normal coach charging system. The other, easier - but much slower - way to re- charge the coach battery is to just plug in the "Shore power" AC and let the built-in charger do it. That will NOT recharge your starter battery - use the trickle charger for that.

If your external charger has a "deep cycle" setting, use that for the coach battery.

Dave Richoux

The side door window curtain on my '02 weekender does not seem to fully
cover the window. In fact, it can't reach all the way across to the
metal closure snap on the door pillar.

Is this true for all Weekenders or do I have mixed up curtain?

Is there a non-dealer source for the right size curtain?

Thanks,

Mike

Does a trickle charger connected to the main battery result in the
coach battery also being charged or do I need to run a separate charger
for each battery?

Thanks,

Mike.

Anyone have a good solution for a squeaking/rattling pop-top lock down
mechanism?

I tried WD/40 on the white plastic parts of the lock down. Also some
silicone dry lube. Problem came back within a few weeks.

Thanks,

Mike.

Jack_son,

I think there are actually only 6 LEDs - they are showing various possible combinations to indicate voltage after you program it. Blinking, Steady, On, Off, number of blinks are all a way of showing status without a true meter. They could have done the same thing with one LCD, maybe this was a more rugged (or cheaper) solution?

Anyway, worth further research!

Dave Richoux

Looking for someone coming to BusFusion this week, June 12 ~ 15, from near
Gapland, MD. I would like to find a ride for three Propex heaters to
BusFusion. Anyone ? I am offering partial fuel payment for the service.

BTW, the weather forecast for _BusFusion_
() is looking really good, like almost perfect !

Cheers,

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
() )
_Frank Condelli & Associates_ ()
- Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
_Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_
()
_BusFusion_ () a VW Camper
camping event, Almonte, ON, June 12 ~ 15, 2008

The Winnie sticker. The other doorjamb sticker is applied by VW BEFORE
Winnie puts its camper stuff onto the VW frame.

Bob W.

White lithium grease, available in a small tube for a few bucks at your
local hardware store.

Bob W.

Hey, that's what this group is all about. Hopefully the karma comes back!

Good luck,
Carl

I didn't ask the question clearly, or you didn't answer clearly, or
both. Let's try again:

The fans have three speeds. Low, medium, high. They always run
together (eg, both low, or both medium, or both high, or both off).

Does that describe your fans?


--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@...> wrote:

Hi Dave,

I dont think my fans are running at different speeds. It seems like
they are only running at a single speed. Both fans are opperating at
the same speed. Any advice for testing the multiple fan speeds?

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@>
wrote:

If your radiator cap is leaking you'd know it. It's sealed by a

big

o-ring (over 1" diameter) in the well of the overflow tank. The
o-ring seals long before the cap is screwed down all the way.

Either

the tank holds pressure or it doesn't. Don't waste your time on a

new

one unless you notice the tank failing to hold pressure.

Do the fans always run together? Do they change speeds? What are
your observations?



--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@> wrote:

--- campbellmeister <campbellmeister@> wrote:

Hello All,
I recently purchased an EV GL with 90,000 miles on it and I

am

loving

this thing. Unfortunately I am having an issue with the

cooling

system.

At random times while driving on city streets, the temp

light

begins to

blink and the temp gauge needle begins to climb. The needle

does

not

climb all the way to the top of the meter but it gets close

enough to

make me concerned. Like clockwork, the light stops blinking

and

the

needle begins to plummet back to normal operating

temperatures.

My

cooling fans are operational and there is fluid in my

overflow

reservoir. I was thinking that this might be a sticking

thermostat. Any

advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not overly suspicious of the thermostat myself. T-stats

usually fail in one of two

ways...either fully open (engine usually never fully warms up

unless car isn't moving and is

idling but cools down...way down...after car is moving again)

or

it sticks fully closed, in which

case the car would overheat and the fans would usually not

come on

since the water in the radiator

is still cool and isolated from the hot engine circuit.

It might be a thermostat if it's opening, but just not fully

opening and therefore only partially

restricting water flow, but I've never really seen them fail

that

way myself.

I would instead suspect the lower-speeds fan circuit.

Although

you said the fans are coming on,

are they coming on only in the highest speed? That might be

the

case...the lower speeds aren't

happening and so the coolant heats up and only the highest

speed,

triggered by the thermoswitch

sensing the coolant getting very hot, so that's why you see it

get

close to overheating.

Thanks for your responses. I will go agahead and try the new
radiator cap. As for the fan speeds, I am not totally sure how

to

check the fan speeds. I know that when the AC is running the

fans

are both operating at the same speed. Do you know a simple way

to

check the fan speeds? I've read about a way to close the circuts

on

certain sensors and the fans will operate at different speeds.

I'll

probably go through those checks this weekend unless someone has

an

easier way to check the three fan speeds.

rwcnec wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., "mchadek" <mchadek@...> wrote:

Hello,

I need some help on fixing the water leaks in my 99 eurovan. We used
the van thru the winter this year and like a dumbing I thought we
could still use the water tank. I drained it in mid winter realizing
my huge mistake but now after filling the water tank it leaks
everywhere. I don't think the tank itself is cranked but I'm sure the
water lines are. Does anyone know of a manual I could get that gives a
detailed breakdown of getting into the areas I need to look at to
check all the lines? Thanks for any help and I'm also bracing myself
for all the hecklers out there who will give me all kinds of grief for
being so stupid.

Michael

Go here:

Yeah, you can see the whole list of diagrams (plumbing and wiring) for years and models since 1997 here:



I also got a Winnebago EVC tech manual from GoWesty (which also has diagrams).



Jim

If we can have 400+ messages on ATF replacement, then 50 or so on
batteries is not too much ;-)

No, not too much, but that's comparing apples to oranges, or maybe
apples to knitting needles!

My husband and I just purchased a 1993 with an automatic and, after
googling a bit, I found this group, and I'm glad I did. Our van only
has 110,000 miles, but I don't think the previous owner did anything
but drive it on Sundays to church (that's what he told us, anyway).
He certainly didn't do much maintenance, or keep any records.

Best of luck to all of you trying to achieve storage battery nirvana.
I"m trying to make sure we aren't one "funny noise" away from
negative equity in our new van.

More transmission talk!!! Please!!!

Dave -

I looked at the Balmar dual battery charger. While
searching for some tech specs on it, I got cross-
eyed trying to count the LEDs. I was almost up to
150, when I saw the switches on top. If they have
LEDs built in, the lamps might total ~170.

They omit details, such as voltage drop through the
device, connection to alternators with internal
regulators, - - & price. They must charge at least
$170 to cover all of those LEDs.

I plan to mount a digital meter under the dash,
wired to each side of the battery combiner relay,
with a center off selector switch. This will make
me happier than 170 lights. I ruled out a
digital voice announcing, "Your batteries are OK"
every minute. OTOH, it could call my cell phone.

One of the reasons I mounted Thule rails on my plastic
roof was to be able to use it to for solar panels.
Panels need a simple isolation diode, which is often
included with a solar controler. This could connect
directly to your coach battery.

My large panels are glass, but my smaller ones use
a 1/8" aluminum panel behind thin film cells, with
a clear protective coat. A small hail storm or an
occasional piece of gravel would cause no problem.
[I just reworded that, after recalling news of
base-ball sized ice a few days ago.] Either type
need to be spaced off of the roof a couple of inches,
for cooling, which the cross struts would provide.

Sometimes I put two 0.6A panels on 1" rubber strips
on the EVC dash. This is not nearly as efficient as
on the roof, but I can park, lock, & not worry. If
I average an Amp for a few hours, it's 'free' energy.
I plug output into one of the 12V sockets. In my
drive, this is simpler than extension cords, Battery
Tender, etc. If I couldn't leave extension cords
connected, & hoods partially open, w/chargers tucked
out of the weather, I'd get more serious with panels.

I keep putting off running a DC extension from my
solar panels on my house to the driveway, but I have
to work out details of a quick-disconnect when I
forget to unplug!

I recently replaced engine batteries in EVC & Passat
with AGM. Eventually I plan to also replace my EVC
house batteries [original, & its K-Mart bargain
'marine' twin] with two AGMs. I hope with an AGM in
front, a slightly higher charge will reach the house
bats. If I hadn't already built the new battery box,
I'd just put in 2 AGMs to fit [in, or in-place-of]
original bat box. I keep waiting for the house bats
to die, but I keep babying them, & they check GREAT!

Jack_son '03 EVC '01 Passat
==============================================
--In ev_update@..., David Richoux <tubaman@...> wrote: