开云体育

I'm going to go check this out at my local West Marine. The alternator
output goes directly to the house battery, then to the Duo Charge, and from
the Duo Charge to the start battery. Should be easy to install in the
start battery compartment.



If this is affordable, I'll get an Odessy.



Stuart

_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of David Richoux
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 10:16 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: Some good battery info - (swiped from the
Sprinter list)



This device was just mentioned on the Sprinter list:
. <>
net/page20-Duocharge.html
. <>
net/PDF/Duo%20Charge%20Manual.pdf

How it would fit into the stock EVC charging circuit is another
question... it's always something!

Dave Richoux

--- In ev_update@..., "Ted Maloney" <freecycle@...> wrote:

Thanks Jeff. If it can buy me some time, it's worth a shot.

T
E
D

I have been having the same issue on my 01MV. I know I have a slight leak from the pan
gasket, so I assume fluid level is down. Just got parts to do change in mail today (from
europarts-sd.com) and plan to do change and adjust pressure screw this weekend. I will let
you know how I make out.

Tony
01MV

Thanks Jeff. If it can buy me some time, it's worth a shot.

T
E
D

I finally ordered speakers from Circuit City and had them install.
The original EVC speakers are 6 1/2 " in the door w/ tweeters in the
dash. They have a crossover in there as well. The door speakers are
rather shallow and most will not fit. Polk makes the DB series
separates as well as a DB series slim that work.

I used Polk separates(db series) in the front and Polk DB 461 in rear
(4x6's).

I just had Circuit City install as I didnt feel like messing w/
Crossovers. Cost me less than $70 for install. Sound is
good.








--- In ev_update@..., "Florian" <fkahlert@...> wrote:

Pictures anywhere? I am interested.
Florian

--- In ev_update@..., "shaliach2007" <caalaredo@> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., "drnich2222" <drnich2222@>

wrote:

I just got my 2003 EVC about a month ago. The stereo had been

replaced

w/ a Sony. I was planning to replace the speakers soon. I

know the

doors are 6 /12. What about the dash? I took off the cover

and it

looks kinda funky. Will aftermarket speakers mount ok? What

size?

Here's an excerpt from an article I submitted to this group site:
I also purchased 2 way (tweeter & 5 1/4" woofer) Audiosource

outdoor

speakers for the rear (forget the original rear speakers.) I

attached

them using their brackets to the seat belt brackets on either

side

using (lots of) nylon ties. I ran wires up & under the trim

panels

toward the rear and the amp. (or, if no amp, toward the front and
solder into the original rear speaker wires). The Audiosources

swivel

toward the rear in case I want to have a "tailgate party".

The line pressure adjustment has certainly bought me some time.

My R and D shifts weren't super slow when I did the adjustment, but
were still noticeably faster afterwards.

Jeff

This device was just mentioned on the Sprinter list:



How it would fit into the stock EVC charging circuit is another question... it's always something!

Dave Richoux

I think that batteries (after maybe oils and tires) are the costliest "expendable" components of our EVCs! Anything we can (within reason) do to increase their performance, dependability and service life is worth exploring. If the stock onboard charging system for the EVC coach battery is incapable of properly charging a AGM (which is otherwise probably a better battery for that job) then it is important that we know about it.

I have to use a electrical medical device every night (a CPAP) and I need to know my coach battery will work the way it is supposed to! I was thinking of replacing my standard wet cell deep cycle battery (which has been weak lately) with an AGM, but now I am not sure. I was planning to also put a solar recharging panel on my pop-top, but I assume I would have to put some sort of isolating device to the coach battery charger - that whole circuit is a bit confusing.

If we can have 400+ messages on ATF replacement, then 50 or so on batteries is not too much ;-)

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

What year, model, engine are you driving?

With my 2.5l. '92 EVC my target highway speed is 65-66mph with 87
octane. I get 19.5 m/USgal. The van will go considerably faster
passing and such, but it's noisier and seems to have more
disconcerting vibrations and rattles.

Brian

--- In ev_update@..., jadrma@... wrote:

I just drove from San Diego to Seattle yesterday (yes, nonstop 20.5

hours)

and at 74mph on cruise control with no A/C on the mostly level

valley floor

Bakersfield to Redding I got 16.8mpg in my '95EVC. THAT was an

expensive trip!!

I used regular 87 Octane.



****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking

with

Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You may also want to purge air from the cooling system. I have had some problems with air bubbles triggering the blinking light. My '95 has a purge on the heater hose, but driving up and down some very steep grades will also work out the bubbles. After I changed out my sensors I ran hot inexpliably, until I drove over some coastal mountain grades and worked out the bubble. The sensors are pretty easy to change out.

Jim

campbellmeister <campbellmeister@...> wrote:
I found an entry by Mike Mac that discussed how to troubleshoot the
cooling fans. I followed his instruction and confirmed that the low and
medium fan speeds are functional. Both fans opperated at the same speed
when I jumped the wires that plug into the sensor on the pasenger side
of the radiator. So now what?

Since my fans work, does this mean that my sensor might be
malfunctioning? Another strange issue is that the temp warning light
blinks sometimes right after I start the van. When the light blinks, if
I don't turn the AC on, the temp gauge will read that the engine is
overheating. When the AC is activated the temp gauge reads normal.

Anyone have advice on what I should try next?

--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@...> wrote:

Hello All,
I recently purchased an EV GL with 90,000 miles on it and I am loving
this thing. Unfortunately I am having an issue with the cooling

system.

At random times while driving on city streets, the temp light begins

to

blink and the temp gauge needle begins to climb. The needle does not
climb all the way to the top of the meter but it gets close enough to
make me concerned. Like clockwork, the light stops blinking and the
needle begins to plummet back to normal operating temperatures. My
cooling fans are operational and there is fluid in my overflow
reservoir. I was thinking that this might be a sticking thermostat.

Any

advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advace!

Jim Black
Cardiff, CA

Hello there,

I had Aamco flush and change the transmission fluid, but I am still
getting a several second delay when I put it into reverse. I have to
give it some gas (rev it) to get it to "catch" and go into gear. The
other gears work fine (well, Drive, I guess is the only other gear I
use) and there are no shifting problems or hesitations or clunks on
the road.

When I first get into the car in the morning, it shifts into reverse
faster (less of a delay) than when the car is warmed up.

What can I do? Is it dead, Jim? Did Aamco put enough fluid in? Did
they use the correct fluid (Valvoline Max Life Synthetic)?

Will that magic, star-shaped transmission adjustment screw fix my
problem?

I am poor and out of anwers. Have a nice day!

T
E
D

Richard,

Superb!

Thanks,
Bob W.

--- In ev_update@..., "mchadek" <mchadek@...> wrote:

Hello,

I need some help on fixing the water leaks in my 99 eurovan. We used
the van thru the winter this year and like a dumbing I thought we
could still use the water tank. I drained it in mid winter realizing
my huge mistake but now after filling the water tank it leaks
everywhere. I don't think the tank itself is cranked but I'm sure the
water lines are. Does anyone know of a manual I could get that gives a
detailed breakdown of getting into the areas I need to look at to
check all the lines? Thanks for any help and I'm also bracing myself
for all the hecklers out there who will give me all kinds of grief for
being so stupid.

Michael

Go here:



Richard Cox
2002HD Rialta

Hello,

I need some help on fixing the water leaks in my 99 eurovan. We used
the van thru the winter this year and like a dumbing I thought we
could still use the water tank. I drained it in mid winter realizing
my huge mistake but now after filling the water tank it leaks
everywhere. I don't think the tank itself is cranked but I'm sure the
water lines are. Does anyone know of a manual I could get that gives a
detailed breakdown of getting into the areas I need to look at to
check all the lines? Thanks for any help and I'm also bracing myself
for all the hecklers out there who will give me all kinds of grief for
being so stupid.

Michael

Garrett

As Pat pointed out if everything on a vehicle of any kind was the very finest it would take all the gold in Fort Knox, if there's any left, to buy it! I own a 17 foot Casita travel trailer and battery types and care are a constant topic on trailer groups too. Most people end up replacing the standard wet cel battery with another of the same type. The extra cost does not warrant the better agm battery for most people. But those that do get them buy expensive shore power converters to keep them charged roperly. Both can easily cost $400 then some opt for two batteries. There is no perfect battery!

Let's get back to tires or maybe fuel lines :=}

Joe R

Well I did it. My first drain and drop was a success thanks to
Garret's instructions and Steve's parts.

That was the good news.

The bad news is that the belly pan was not there. I guess the pan
was removed by a mechanic and left off. The car is taken off the road
for 6 months because of the winter( you need 4 wheel drive to reach
my house.) So when I tried to retrace my steps, it was too long ago.

Any Ideas on where to get a used belly pan. The VW price is $471. I
know I am not the first in the group to loose a belly pan. My advice
to everyone, if anyone works on your ev look underneath before you
leave the shop.

Marty

I am posting the following Westy for sale add for my good friends Mike &
Marianne who I met in La Manzannilla, MX while on our Buses in Zamora trip this
past winter. The van is now in California, in excellent condition. I have
seen and worked on this van. They need to sell this van for personal reasons.

For sale: Vanagon Westfalia
year: 1990
price: 17,500.00
body style: Westfalia pop top full camper
exterior colour: white
interior colour: grey
engine: 4 cylinder 2.1 water cooled
transmission: automatic
drive type: 2 wheel drive
doors: 3 doors
mileage: 217,000 miles

Vehicle description:
This is a very clean and straight Westfalia camper. With the full camping
package: pop-up top with 2 beds, 2 burner stove, sink and faucet, closet,
storage cabinets, ext hookups for water, 2 tables, skylight/vent and swivel seats.
Runs and drives great.

We are only the 2nd owners. Maintenance info on request. All work do by
pro's. New tranny at 187k.

Contact for more info and pictures: Mike & Marianne McCombs, Chico, CA,
559-471-6469, _retiredmccombs@... (mailto:retiredmccombs@...)


Cheers,

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
() )
_Frank Condelli & Associates_ ()
- Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
_Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_
()
_BusFusion_ () a VW Camper
camping event, Almonte, ON, June 12 ~ 15, 2008

Hugo,

I have a 1993 MV Weekender.
I am 6 foot tall and not as slender as in younger years, so I do most
of this from outside the van.

To get at the battery under the driver's seat here's what I do:
1 - slide driver's seat fully forward while lifting on the black lever
on the Left (door) side of the seat.

2- standing on the ground with the door open, lean over the seat and
find the grey metal level on the right side, between the seat and the
parking brake handle. It is cleverly disguised as part of the seat
tracks. Pull this out - this allows the seat to slide forward a bit more.

3 - still standing outside, lift up the black lever and slide the seat
further forward (usually pushing from behind, in the center so the
seat doesn't go sideways and jam).

If you have your owner's manual, it has pictures and instructions.

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender
Vancouver, Canada

--- In ev_update@..., "hvarotto" <yahoo@...> wrote:

Hello,

I need to access/remove the 2nd battery under the driver's seat. The

one inside

was installed by the previous owner, and I need to remove it t.

Could anybody please

explain me how to access it for removal.?

I believe I need to slide the driver seat forward. There're 2

levers, one to the

left and one to the right, and if I seat on the seat, I can slide

the set forward by using the

left lever. My understanding is that the right lever/lock is the one

that permits the seat to

slide even further, but I haven't been able to make it slide even

further. Is there a

trick/special order on how to use it ?

I want to install a supporting bracket (battery is currently loose)

and check

some electrical connections. I'll also check how well it charges,

and may consider replacing it

if it doesn't hold good charge.

Thanks in advance,

Hugo

Here's one for a 95 EVC that showed up on TheSamba today:




-- In ev_update@..., Danielle Cummings <ddc_jtc@...>
wrote:

do you know if it will fit in a 97?


----- Original Message ----
From: forest flanigan <creoflan@...>
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 8:34:51 PM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: Want to Buy: Middle Seat for '95 EVC


The 2002 middle seat is different than the 95. I contacted the

person

interested in a 95 and they still want it. So mine will go to her.

Forest

On Thu, May 29, 2008 at 4:58 AM, Todd and Dana <ddc_jtc@yahoo. com>

wrote:

--- I have a 2002 middle seat available IN PA ddc_jtc@yahoo.

com<ddc_jtc%40yahoo. com>

In ev_update@yahoogrou ps.com <ev_update%40yahoog

roups.com> , "forest

flanigan" <creoflan@ .> wrote:

I have a middle seat for a 95 EVC . Another person on the list

was

looking

at it but she's in NY AND I'm in Northern Ca. I'll check with

her --

Write me

off list if your interested

Forest

On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 10:50 AM, alonfw2 <alonfw@> wrote:

If you have one or know of any please let me know. We just had

a baby

and would like him closer to us when we are out and about.

Alon :)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for posting this informative article, David.

As a practical matter, VW and Winnebago designed and installed a very
straightforward, low tech system with standard components available
anywhere. I appreciate this in that it is very reliable and easily
maintained. This is great for a car that spends a lot of time on the
road instead of home, sometimes in the middle of nowhere.

Anytime you build a system like this, it is not perfection, but that
was not the intent. It is reasonably priced, bulletproof and there
when you need it most of the time.

I've never seen much need to improve on a small system like the EVC.
If a person is so inclined, the best source is the marine industry
which has developed a multitude of sophisticated (and expensive)
approaches to battery power for both cranking and house use. A great
resource is West Marine, which has a lot educational info on their
website if you are not in a city where they have a store.

Again, thanks for sharing.

Pete

Yes, that's right. Just pull up on the cap and it should come off. You might want to hold
the base of the tube, just to keep it from disconnecting from the top of transmission.

I replaced my fill tube with a dipstick. I had the original fill tube in my hands this
afternoon and pulled the cap off. No need to depress the little tabs.

C