开云体育

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 开云体育
  1. Eurovanupdate
  2. Messages
Expanded Topics Messages Polls
Date
Re: my 1995 ev camper anemic motor

 

Has the rubber test pipe cap for the catalytic converter burned through?

You could have a clogged cat.

If the cap has not burned through you can pull it at idle and see if you get a lot of exhaust through it.

If you end up replacing the cat, also check the rest of the exhaust system. The resonator can get plugged up when the cat comes apart.

Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk

On Jun 8, 2008, at 8:37 PM, Alain gravel wrote:

Hi!

I made a 300 km trip this weekend and my 95 ev camper with his big 5
cylinder was not even able to follow my friends with their vanagon.
No power i had trouble to reach 95 km/hour (55 mph).It was doing like
if the motor was not running with 5 cylinder, at home i checked the 5
plugs and they all had electicity on it while running. Somebody told
me it could be the timing, but my mechanic told me a couple week ago
it could not be adjusted????? and it took a lot of gas, 19 liters per
100 km which is 1 1/2 what it should be. Somebody has an idea of where
I should investigate?. i have to tell that the vehicle is 140000 km
and the plugs were changed at 100 000 km and the rotor and the
distributor cap change a couple month ago.


------------------------------------

To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to
mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@...
Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: Transmission Fluid Fill Help

 

So just to make sure that I understand correctly, the little tabs do
NOT need to be depressed or pushed in to get the cap off. I simply
need to pull up a little harder to overcome the friction of the
o-rings and the pressure that the tabs are pushing against the fill
tube.

Obviously I am a little hesitant to pull on the cap until I am
convinced that it will come off without breaking something.

Thanks again-
TJC

--- In ev_update@..., "jd_boldt" <jd_boldt@...> wrote:

As mentioned the sealing ring is not crucial, as long as the double
o-ring cap is in place and tight.

WARNING: Be careful when removing the 3/4" hose from tube after
filling tranny. You must hold the tube IN while you pull / twist /
wiggle the hose off. My first change resulted in me pulling the tube
part way out while trying to get the hose off. Fortunately I had
cleaned the area well, but... I am now more cautious when removing the
fill hose. It would ruin your day to pull the tube out and have crud
fall into your fresh fluid.
my 1995 ev camper anemic motor

Alain gravel
 

Hi!

I made a 300 km trip this weekend and my 95 ev camper with his big 5
cylinder was not even able to follow my friends with their vanagon.
No power i had trouble to reach 95 km/hour (55 mph).It was doing like
if the motor was not running with 5 cylinder, at home i checked the 5
plugs and they all had electicity on it while running. Somebody told
me it could be the timing, but my mechanic told me a couple week ago
it could not be adjusted????? and it took a lot of gas, 19 liters per
100 km which is 1 1/2 what it should be. Somebody has an idea of where
I should investigate?. i have to tell that the vehicle is 140000 km
and the plugs were changed at 100 000 km and the rotor and the
distributor cap change a couple month ago.
Re: Wiper repair help needed

 

On my 2003 my wipers died and when I investigated I found that the
linkage just snaps back on (at least where it had come apart). I
looked for a clip or something to hold it and found nothing. I was
dubious it would hold but its been a year with no problems. I think it
may be different on earlier models.

On 6/8/08, jadrma1 <jadrma@...> wrote:
How is the wiper assembly crank attached to the wiper motor? The motor
spindle (shaft?) looks like it has threads and the nut has come off
leaving me without working wipers. In fact the crank is now off the
motor shaft completely. Does anybody have a drawing of this connection?
Is it a bolt and washer that I need or what? What size bolt? I live in
Seattle so working wipers are critical. Thanks

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com
Re: Some good battery info - (swiped from the Sprinter list)

pat_under_hill
 

I did read th your posts, and quite a bit of the website, too. My
point is that VW and Winnebago (and Toyota, for that matter, since I
have a Sienna) don't invest in leading edge battery technology for
running accessories (and doesn't every new vehicle on the road have a
lot of accessories, many of which are used when the motor isn't
running, so good battery performance matters more and more?).

There isn't a single device on your van -- from batteries to seat
belts to gaskets -- that couldn't be made better, much better. You can
always find an aftermarket supplier that does something better. That
doesn't mean, as you exasperatedly wondered, "this stuff wasn't
figured out at the level of the factory engineering."

--- In ev_update@..., "Garrett" <garrett.elists@...> wrote:

Pat,

Okay, your point is made. However, did you read that long post from
the Sprinter list before doing your note here? The original post was
*nothing* about what you're saying I am slamming VW and Winnebago
for.

It wasn't about, as you say, "batteries need to be charged." Of
course they do! And that was the VERY POINT the original poster was
making!! The original post was about supplying the *correct* voltage
and amperage to the batteries and how a cranking battery (up front)
needs a *different* voltage for charging than does the deep cycle
batteries (in back)... otherwise the the deep cycle batteries never
get fully charged... and the deep cycle battery suffers a premature
death and never operates correctly or efficiently from the very start
(because it NEVER gets fully charged).

It was nothing to do about "free lunch."

It was nothing to do about "free electricity."

Let me invite you to first read the original post and then reply to
me off line (privately), if you care to take this further with me.

The orignal post wasn't at all about conversion losses or running A/C
off the battery or alternator. The orginal post was about (that
fellow's assertion as to) how the WRONG amperage and voltage gets
supplied by the alternator and how that hurts the deep cycle
batteries... and the original post went into a possible solution that
he (the original poster) was going to investigate further.

My lamenting is that the correct voltage and amperage (if the
original poster is correct in his assertions) should have been known,
figured out, and supplied by the VW and/or Winnebago engineers.

I'm not slamming anyone for not supplying a free lunch or free
electricity. That would be ridiculous.

Best wishes,

Garrett

--- In ev_update@..., "pat_under_hill"
<pat_under_hill@> wrote:

Garrett, don't be so quick to harshly judge VW and Winnebago. There
is
no free lunch, and no free electricity, either. Batteries need to be
charged, and that takes fuel. Use great batteries (and maybe even an
extra alternator as that website shows) and maybe you can run your
cabin air conditioning system on electricity alone, but is that more
efficient? Maybe not. Rarely is burning gas to charge batteries to
then power devices more efficient than just burning gas and avoiding
the conversion losses. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't, but without
more
information it's premature to slam VW and/or Winnebago.




--- In ev_update@..., "Garrett" <garrett.elists@> wrote:


David Richoux wrote:

For those with a Coach Battery - EVC and others, I found this
on the
Yahoo Sprinter list yesterday. <snip>


This was facinating and quite informative. The post and the
included
URL cited sheds a LOT of clarity and light on the subjet.


Here is the URL again:




It makes me wonder WHY this stuff wasn't figured out at the level
of
the factory engineering (i.e. Winnebago, VW, etc.)? Why should
the
consumer have to go through this kind of re-engineering just to
bring
the product (EVC, Sprinter, etc.) up to minimum standard?

Thanks for swiping and re-posting this piece, David. It also
makes me
wonder if I should also be monitoring the Sprinter list!? ;)


Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"
Re: my 1995 ev camper anemic motor

 

What is the status of the Cat? Possibly plugged? Intake air filter?

Bob W.


In a message dated 6/8/2008 9:37:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
_alain.gravel@... (mailto:alain.gravel@...)
writes:

I made a 300 km trip this weekend and my 95 ev camper with his big 5
cylinder was not even able to follow my friends with their vanagon.
No power i had trouble to reach 95 km/hour (55 mph).It was doing like
if the motor was not running with 5 cylinder, at home i checked the 5
plugs and they all had electicity on it while running. Somebody told
me it could be the timing, but my mechanic told me a couple week ago
it could not be adjusted????it could not be adjusted????<WBR<WBR>? and
100 km which is 1 1/2 what it should be. Somebody has an idea of where
I should investigate?I should investigate?<WBR<WBR>. i have to tell
and the plugs were changed at 100 000 km and the rotor and the
distributor cap change a couple month ago.





****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()
Re: my 1995 ev camper anemic motor

 

What is the status of the Cat? Possibly lugged? Intake air filter?

Bob W.

In a message dated 6/8/2008 9:37:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
alain.gravel@... writes:

I made a 300 km trip this weekend and my 95 ev camper with his big 5
cylinder was not even able to follow my friends with their vanagon.
No power i had trouble to reach 95 km/hour (55 mph).It was doing like
if the motor was not running with 5 cylinder, at home i checked the 5
plugs and they all had electicity on it while running. Somebody told
me it could be the timing, but my mechanic told me a couple week ago
it could not be adjusted????it could not be adjusted????<WBR>? and
100 km which is 1 1/2 what it should be. Somebody has an idea of where
I should investigate?I should investigate?<WBR>. i have to tell
and the plugs were changed at 100 000 km and the rotor and the
distributor cap change a couple month ago.




****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()
Re: Some good battery info - (swiped from the Sprinter list)

 

Pat,

Okay, your point is made. However, did you read that long post from
the Sprinter list before doing your note here? The original post was
*nothing* about what you're saying I am slamming VW and Winnebago
for.

It wasn't about, as you say, "batteries need to be charged." Of
course they do! And that was the VERY POINT the original poster was
making!! The original post was about supplying the *correct* voltage
and amperage to the batteries and how a cranking battery (up front)
needs a *different* voltage for charging than does the deep cycle
batteries (in back)... otherwise the the deep cycle batteries never
get fully charged... and the deep cycle battery suffers a premature
death and never operates correctly or efficiently from the very start
(because it NEVER gets fully charged).

It was nothing to do about "free lunch."

It was nothing to do about "free electricity."

Let me invite you to first read the original post and then reply to
me off line (privately), if you care to take this further with me.

The orignal post wasn't at all about conversion losses or running A/C
off the battery or alternator. The orginal post was about (that
fellow's assertion as to) how the WRONG amperage and voltage gets
supplied by the alternator and how that hurts the deep cycle
batteries... and the original post went into a possible solution that
he (the original poster) was going to investigate further.

My lamenting is that the correct voltage and amperage (if the
original poster is correct in his assertions) should have been known,
figured out, and supplied by the VW and/or Winnebago engineers.

I'm not slamming anyone for not supplying a free lunch or free
electricity. That would be ridiculous.

Best wishes,

Garrett

--- In ev_update@..., "pat_under_hill"
<pat_under_hill@...> wrote:

Garrett, don't be so quick to harshly judge VW and Winnebago. There
is
no free lunch, and no free electricity, either. Batteries need to be
charged, and that takes fuel. Use great batteries (and maybe even an
extra alternator as that website shows) and maybe you can run your
cabin air conditioning system on electricity alone, but is that more
efficient? Maybe not. Rarely is burning gas to charge batteries to
then power devices more efficient than just burning gas and avoiding
the conversion losses. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't, but without
more
information it's premature to slam VW and/or Winnebago.




--- In ev_update@..., "Garrett" <garrett.elists@> wrote:


David Richoux wrote:

For those with a Coach Battery - EVC and others, I found this
on the
Yahoo Sprinter list yesterday. <snip>


This was facinating and quite informative. The post and the
included
URL cited sheds a LOT of clarity and light on the subjet.


Here is the URL again:




It makes me wonder WHY this stuff wasn't figured out at the level
of
the factory engineering (i.e. Winnebago, VW, etc.)? Why should
the
consumer have to go through this kind of re-engineering just to
bring
the product (EVC, Sprinter, etc.) up to minimum standard?

Thanks for swiping and re-posting this piece, David. It also
makes me
wonder if I should also be monitoring the Sprinter list!? ;)


Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"
Re: Transmission Fluid Fill Help

 

As mentioned the sealing ring is not crucial, as long as the double
o-ring cap is in place and tight.

WARNING: Be careful when removing the 3/4" hose from tube after
filling tranny. You must hold the tube IN while you pull / twist /
wiggle the hose off. My first change resulted in me pulling the tube
part way out while trying to get the hose off. Fortunately I had
cleaned the area well, but... I am now more cautious when removing the
fill hose. It would ruin your day to pull the tube out and have crud
fall into your fresh fluid.
Re: Some good battery info - (swiped from the Sprinter list)

pat_under_hill
 

Garrett, don't be so quick to harshly judge VW and Winnebago. There is
no free lunch, and no free electricity, either. Batteries need to be
charged, and that takes fuel. Use great batteries (and maybe even an
extra alternator as that website shows) and maybe you can run your
cabin air conditioning system on electricity alone, but is that more
efficient? Maybe not. Rarely is burning gas to charge batteries to
then power devices more efficient than just burning gas and avoiding
the conversion losses. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't, but without more
information it's premature to slam VW and/or Winnebago.

--- In ev_update@..., "Garrett" <garrett.elists@...> wrote:


David Richoux wrote:

For those with a Coach Battery - EVC and others, I found this on the
Yahoo Sprinter list yesterday. <snip>


This was facinating and quite informative. The post and the included
URL cited sheds a LOT of clarity and light on the subjet.


Here is the URL again:




It makes me wonder WHY this stuff wasn't figured out at the level of
the factory engineering (i.e. Winnebago, VW, etc.)? Why should the
consumer have to go through this kind of re-engineering just to bring
the product (EVC, Sprinter, etc.) up to minimum standard?

Thanks for swiping and re-posting this piece, David. It also makes me
wonder if I should also be monitoring the Sprinter list!? ;)


Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"
Re: Some good battery info - (swiped from the Sprinter list)

 

David Richoux wrote:

For those with a Coach Battery - EVC and others, I found this on the
Yahoo Sprinter list yesterday. <snip>


This was facinating and quite informative. The post and the included
URL cited sheds a LOT of clarity and light on the subjet.


Here is the URL again:




It makes me wonder WHY this stuff wasn't figured out at the level of
the factory engineering (i.e. Winnebago, VW, etc.)? Why should the
consumer have to go through this kind of re-engineering just to bring
the product (EVC, Sprinter, etc.) up to minimum standard?

Thanks for swiping and re-posting this piece, David. It also makes me
wonder if I should also be monitoring the Sprinter list!? ;)


Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"
Re: Transmission Fluid Fill Help

Carl Henderson
 

The red cap is just an extra measure to retain the cap.

The cap itself has some "grip" using the tabs you mention. You should be able to pull the
cap off with a little effort. There are two o-rings on a shaft as part of the cap. These o-
rings provide the real seal and keep dirt out of the pan. The fluid itself isn't under
pressure, nor is the fluid level anywhere near the o-ring seals, so they're just for dirt
exclusion.

As long as the cap is in place, you should have been fine for the past 50K.

--- In ev_update@..., "TJC" <thomasjcook@...> wrote:

I finally worked up enough DIY courage to try the tranny drain/filter
replace/refill task and I hit a problem right at the start.

My filler tube does not appear to have the red cap shown here:

and here


Most likely one of the two previous tran services I have had done (one
at the dealer and one at an independent shop) broke it and did not
replace. It is also possible that it was not there when I purchased
the van a few years ago since the van had ~130k on it when I bought it.

How does the remaining cap come off? Does it just pull up and off?
Do the push tabs on the side grab anything? Since I have been driving
for at least 50k without it how necessary is it? Or does my low fluid
level and moist area around the tranny pan provide that answer for me?

I was able to open the allen bolt for the drain tube but that is as
far as I was able to get before I ran into the filler cap problem.

Thanks for the help-
TJC

1997 EVC - 188+ on original engine and tranny
Re: Cooling problem in 93 GL

Joe R
 

Start looking for bad grounds. Both under the hood and under the dash. You must take off and physically look at every connection including the battery cables.

Joe R

----- Original Message -----
From: campbellmeister
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 12:26 AM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Cooling problem in 93 GL


I found an entry by Mike Mac that discussed how to troubleshoot the
cooling fans. I followed his instruction and confirmed that the low and
medium fan speeds are functional. Both fans opperated at the same speed
when I jumped the wires that plug into the sensor on the pasenger side
of the radiator. So now what?

Since my fans work, does this mean that my sensor might be
malfunctioning? Another strange issue is that the temp warning light
blinks sometimes right after I start the van. When the light blinks, if
I don't turn the AC on, the temp gauge will read that the engine is
overheating. When the AC is activated the temp gauge reads normal.

Anyone have advice on what I should try next?

--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@...> wrote:
>
> Hello All,
> I recently purchased an EV GL with 90,000 miles on it and I am loving
> this thing. Unfortunately I am having an issue with the cooling
system.
> At random times while driving on city streets, the temp light begins
to
> blink and the temp gauge needle begins to climb. The needle does not
> climb all the way to the top of the meter but it gets close enough to
> make me concerned. Like clockwork, the light stops blinking and the
> needle begins to plummet back to normal operating temperatures. My
> cooling fans are operational and there is fluid in my overflow
> reservoir. I was thinking that this might be a sticking thermostat.
Any
> advice would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks in advace!
>
Transmission Fluid Fill Help

 

I finally worked up enough DIY courage to try the tranny drain/filter
replace/refill task and I hit a problem right at the start.

My filler tube does not appear to have the red cap shown here:

and here


Most likely one of the two previous tran services I have had done (one
at the dealer and one at an independent shop) broke it and did not
replace. It is also possible that it was not there when I purchased
the van a few years ago since the van had ~130k on it when I bought it.

How does the remaining cap come off? Does it just pull up and off?
Do the push tabs on the side grab anything? Since I have been driving
for at least 50k without it how necessary is it? Or does my low fluid
level and moist area around the tranny pan provide that answer for me?

I was able to open the allen bolt for the drain tube but that is as
far as I was able to get before I ran into the filler cap problem.

Thanks for the help-
TJC

1997 EVC - 188+ on original engine and tranny
Wiper repair help needed

jadrma1
 

How is the wiper assembly crank attached to the wiper motor? The motor
spindle (shaft?) looks like it has threads and the nut has come off
leaving me without working wipers. In fact the crank is now off the
motor shaft completely. Does anybody have a drawing of this connection?
Is it a bolt and washer that I need or what? What size bolt? I live in
Seattle so working wipers are critical. Thanks
Re: Cooling problem in 93 GL

campbellmeister
 

I found an entry by Mike Mac that discussed how to troubleshoot the
cooling fans. I followed his instruction and confirmed that the low and
medium fan speeds are functional. Both fans opperated at the same speed
when I jumped the wires that plug into the sensor on the pasenger side
of the radiator. So now what?

Since my fans work, does this mean that my sensor might be
malfunctioning? Another strange issue is that the temp warning light
blinks sometimes right after I start the van. When the light blinks, if
I don't turn the AC on, the temp gauge will read that the engine is
overheating. When the AC is activated the temp gauge reads normal.

Anyone have advice on what I should try next?

--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@...> wrote:

Hello All,
I recently purchased an EV GL with 90,000 miles on it and I am loving
this thing. Unfortunately I am having an issue with the cooling
system.
At random times while driving on city streets, the temp light begins
to
blink and the temp gauge needle begins to climb. The needle does not
climb all the way to the top of the meter but it gets close enough to
make me concerned. Like clockwork, the light stops blinking and the
needle begins to plummet back to normal operating temperatures. My
cooling fans are operational and there is fluid in my overflow
reservoir. I was thinking that this might be a sticking thermostat.
Any
advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advace!
Re: Speaker upgrade for 2003 EVC

 

Pictures anywhere? I am interested.
Florian

--- In ev_update@..., "shaliach2007" <caalaredo@...> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., "drnich2222" <drnich2222@> wrote:

I just got my 2003 EVC about a month ago. The stereo had been
replaced
w/ a Sony. I was planning to replace the speakers soon. I know the
doors are 6 /12. What about the dash? I took off the cover and it
looks kinda funky. Will aftermarket speakers mount ok? What size?
Here's an excerpt from an article I submitted to this group site:
I also purchased 2 way (tweeter & 5 1/4" woofer) Audiosource outdoor
speakers for the rear (forget the original rear speakers.) I attached
them using their brackets to the seat belt brackets on either side
using (lots of) nylon ties. I ran wires up & under the trim panels
toward the rear and the amp. (or, if no amp, toward the front and
solder into the original rear speaker wires). The Audiosources swivel
toward the rear in case I want to have a "tailgate party".
Re: Speaker upgrade for 2003 EVC

 

--- In ev_update@..., "drnich2222" <drnich2222@...> wrote:

I just got my 2003 EVC about a month ago. The stereo had been
replaced
w/ a Sony. I was planning to replace the speakers soon. I know the
doors are 6 /12. What about the dash? I took off the cover and it
looks kinda funky. Will aftermarket speakers mount ok? What size?
Here's an excerpt from an article I submitted to this group site:
I also purchased 2 way (tweeter & 5 1/4" woofer) Audiosource outdoor
speakers for the rear (forget the original rear speakers.) I attached
them using their brackets to the seat belt brackets on either side
using (lots of) nylon ties. I ran wires up & under the trim panels
toward the rear and the amp. (or, if no amp, toward the front and
solder into the original rear speaker wires). The Audiosources swivel
toward the rear in case I want to have a "tailgate party".
Re: Speaker upgrade for 2003 EVC

 

Speakers in an EVC compared to those in a Weekender are like apples and
oranges.

Bob

In a message dated 6/7/2008 9:24:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
fkahlert@... writes:

Pictures anywhere? I am interested.





****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()
Re: name your Eurovan Camper

Downtown Computers
 

Mine is the Galloping Shanty

----- Original Message -----
From: terryobrien1
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 2:41 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: name your Eurovan Camper


We call our's "Morrison" as in Van.

-Terry
2002 EVC
60701 - 60720 of 165017