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i have a 93(gifted to me)EV They were broke when i got it...i fixed it with jb weld for now because i will have to replace the whole assembly anyway, which are hard to find used....good luck

We call our's "Morrison" as in Van.

-Terry
2002 EVC

Great story!

We got our first VW camper several years ago in Atlanta. A '84
Vanagon Westy that sort of named itself while driving home over the
Appalachian Mountains. (Pedal to the floor-35 mph.)
We kept "Pokey" for four years before taking him to Denver to trade
him for a nice '97 EVC. (Yay Air-conditioning!) I've struggled with a
name for our "new" camper. For now I call it The Flying Maytag,
because it's big, white, boxy, and kind of plain. But, you take it on
the interstate, set the cruise control on 75, and just fly!
Note: This was before the recent gas hike!

--- In ev_update@..., "aaron.berrios" <Laurieberrios@...>
wrote:

We just had to chime in... sorry this is in the form of a story...

In 2006 we went to help rebuild in the Gulf of Mississippi after
Katrina. We had only a dream of an EVC back then. We travelled from

NY

with a 35 person team, 5 different vehicles, including a 12 seat
passenger van that belonged to a friend. That friend and I and our
youngest children spent our time serving the construction teams

onsite

meals, snacks.
When we returned we found out that this is a typical Red Cross
function, they take re-done ambulances, retro-fitted with cooking

gear

named 'emergency response vehicles' or ERV's and deliver meals and
water to disaster sites. SOOOOO, we decided if we ever bought a

cool

EVC (which we did, everything about it is cool, but the fridge)we
would name it the mini-emergency response vehicle or the MERV -
everyone we know, including our kids, only knows the VW party wagon

as

one thing... a MERV!

While driving up from San Diego to Seattle my windshield wipers
suddenly stopped. I popped the hood and the little "axle" in the motor
appeared to be turning properly but somehow the wiper arm linkage were
no longer engaged to the motor. I could see the end of the spindle turn
with each wiping motion but the arms were motionless. It was as though
gear teeth or whatever were stripped. Can anybody advise what's wrong
and how to repair?? Thanks.

'93 VW passat

Where do you usually camp at Strawberry?&nbsp; We first went to Strawberry in spring 86 when we were driving a Vanogon.&nbsp; We now have a 99 EVC and we usually camp near the intersection of&nbsp; Evergreen Rd and Yosmite Trails Rd. Maybe we will see you there at Labor Day. For others check out strawberrymusic.com.

Larry
LA, CA

I haven't posted here as of yet, but this thread caught my eye, and
figured this a good a place as any to make my debut.

Our 2002 EV is not a camper model, but the license plate for it is "GO
BUG E", and we alternately refer to it as the "go buggy" or
just "buggy"....

Mike

We use our '99 EVC mostly to attend the Strawberry Music Festival in Yosemite twice a year so, of course, we named her "Berryvan".

--Jan from the O.C.
4d.
Re: name your Eurovan Camper
Posted by: "mojowrkn" johndito@... mojowrkn
Fri Jun 6, 2008 4:02 pm (PDT)
.

I just drove from San Diego to Seattle yesterday (yes, nonstop 20.5 hours)
and at 74mph on cruise control with no A/C on the mostly level valley floor
Bakersfield to Redding I got 16.8mpg in my '95EVC. THAT was an expensive trip!!
I used regular 87 Octane.



****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()

For those with a Coach Battery - EVC and others, I found this on the Yahoo Sprinter list yesterday. There is some Sprinter specific stuff, but the overall information should be very useful when deciding what sort of batteries to get.

Dave Richoux
----------------------
( Posted by: "Ken Slaughter" kenslaughter@... )

There are two
primary flavors of batteries (for our purposes here), sealed (SLA -
sealed lead acid) and flooded (FLA - flooded lead acid). Both are lead
acid batteries and have the same chemistry. The Odyssey batteries are
Sealed Lead Acid, and use the same liquid battery acid (electrolyte)
as the traditional wet cell, except that the electrolyte is absorbed
into glass mats (similar to fiberglass), so it doesn't slosh around
like in a wet cell battery. They are called AGM, for the Absorbed
Glass Mat construction. They are "dry" by design, only insofar as they
don't have free liquid sloshing around that can leak. AGM batteries,
even if broken open, will not leak. (well, they will, if you leave a
broken AGM battery laying there long enough. I guess "seep", maybe
"ooze" is a better word than leak).

The sealed, maintenance-free batteries, often marketed as "marine"
batteries, are merely traditional wet cell batteries that are sealed
and vented much like AGM batteries. However, with the cheaper
maintenance-free batteries, you can still add water if necessary (tho
sometimes how to get the caps off isn't readily apparent). Usually
you'll never need to add water, unless you have overcharged them and
they have, in fact, boiled over, outgassed and leaked. Some of the
maintenance-free batteries, like the ones marketed as "marine deep
cycle" like the Everstart Maxx marine batteries at Wal Mart, are
hybrid batteries, basically a cranking battery with slightly thicker
plates that will withstand deeper discharges than a cranking battery.
They aren't deep cycle batteries by a long shot. They are deep cycle
for starting a boat motor, and for use with a trolling motor. That's
what marine deep cycle means, it means a trolling motor battery, and
is designed to be drawn down and cycled in the same manner than a
trolling motor draws on it.

The design life of AGM batteries is indeed 8-10 year, but that's only
if they are properly taken care of, meaning not discharged below 50%
very often at all, and when they are recharged they are fully
recharged with the proper voltage. If you discharge too deeply and
then don't fully recharge them, the lifespan is dramatically reduced.
Like, from 8-10 year down to anywhere from 1-3 years.

Do keep in mind that if you want to charge an AGM house bank battery
with the same alternator that you charge your cranking battery, the
two batteries must be the same type, as in the cranking battery must
be an AGM battery, too, and not a standard cranking battery (sealed,
maintenance-free or traditional wet cell battery). AGM's and regular
cranking batteries (like the OEM Sprinter battery) require different
charging parameters, and a single alternator won't do that. Cranking
batteries require a variable, lower voltage (13.2-13.8), but a
relatively constant amps, while AGM's require a higher, constant
voltage (14.2-14.4), and the amps can be wildly variable. When you try
to charge AGM's with the vehicle's alternator, the AGM's will receive
the same low voltage and low amps that the cranking battery will get,
and the result is the AGM's will never be fully charged.

AGM's aren't like traditional batteries in the sense that with regular
batteries, you can charge them up fully at a lower voltage, it just
might take them a long time to get charged. With AGM's, if you try to
charge them at a voltage that is lower than 14.2, it doesn't matter
how long you leave them on the charger or alternator, they'll never
get fully charged. At best you'll get them to about 80% charged. And
chronic undercharging is the surest way to kill a battery before it's
time.

When you charge an AGM at, say, 13.6 volts, as the battery charges up
the internal resistance will match that of the charging voltage, and
when the internal voltage reaches 13.6 volts, and the charging voltage
is 13.6 volts, there ya go, charging stops, usually at around 80%, and
it won't charge beyond that, regardless of how long you pump 13.6
volts at it.

Even at that, the vehicle's alternator will throw a variable voltage
at the battery, not a constant 13.6 (or whatever) because the cranking
battery needs a constant amperage, not constant voltage,yet AGM's are
the opposite in that they need constant volts, variable amps.

Optima batteries are a hybrid, but are more like an AGM battery than
they are a "marine" or other battery type. They are true deep cycle
batteries, but are on the lower end of the deep cycle battery scale.

In the mid and upper range are the AGM (and gel) batteries from makers
like Odyssey (hardly the best battery you can buy, however), Deka, a
few others. And on the higher end of mid and upper range of consumer
AGM batteries you'll find Concord Lifeline and Discover Energy
batteries. The difference between the four brands I mention here are
small, and mainly related to specific applications, with Deka and
Odyssey being on one level and Concord and Discover Energy being
slightly above the other two. There are several differences, but the
primary one being the amount of amps you can pump into the different
batteries. Concord and Discover will take as many amps as you can pump
into them, up to 400% of the battery bank capacity, whereas Deka and
Odyssey will max out somewhere between 50% and 100% of capacity. Few
people will have the battery cables large enough to pump 400% of
battery capacity into a Concord. Imagine a 400 amp hour bank, and
trying to find a charger and telephone pole-sized battery cables that
can handle 1600 amps and 14.4 volts. That would be fun. :)

Just keep in mind that if you want to charge an AGM house battery with
the Sprinter's alternator, you really and truly do need an AGM
starting battery, in order to get the same voltage to both batteries.
Also keep in mind that AGM batteries don't perform very well at temps
below zero, so the cranking amps may be a little low at those times.

If you have different cranking and house bank batteries, this may be a
viable option.


I haven't talked with them, yet, but I plan to. They apparently have a
proven system with a tandem regulator for the Sprinter's Bosch
alternator that delivers different charging voltages to the house bank
and the cranking battery. Only thing I need to find out is how many
amps it can divert to the house bank, as it would be a shame to have a
150 amp alternator that only delivers the standard 30 or so amps of
charge to the batteries. It ain't cheap, but compared to the cost of 2
or 4 high end AGM's, it's pretty cheap if it'll keep them fully and
properly charged.

Stuart,
how many pages are in the winnie service/training manual? is the
information very good? you said you might scan this manual and post
it someday. any idea when "someday" might be here? =)

--- In ev_update@..., "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@...>
wrote:

Bummer. Probably froze and cracked a fitting. I doubt that the

tank itself

is cracked.



Anyway, I've never done it, but according to the Winnie service

training

manual:



1. Remove the rear seat.



2. Remove the left side panel compartment

a. Remove 11 plastic caps and the screws
b. Pull panel free of vehicle



3. Remove the rest of the panel and bed support

a. Disconnect wires to the 12v receptacle and water pump switch

(don't

short circuit them)
b. Remove rear cover from 110v outlet by prying locking tabs

outward.

Remove wires from the outlet.
c. Disconnect water tank fill and vent lines at panel
d. Disconnect shower head
e. Remove breaker panel. (no instructions given for this)
f. Remove rear panel from vehicle.



4. Remove water tank access panel

a. Remove duct box by disconnecting duct hose and removing 4

retaining

screws
b. Remove the access panel retaining screws. 5 screws on the

lower

edge and 6 on the upper edge which are accessed from inside the

wardrobe and

small galley door openings.



5. Fix the problem and put it all back together again



6. Be sure to drain system every fall or add antifreeze!!





This is a bit cryptic, and manual has a couple of unhelpful line

drawings,

nothing else. It looks like the water tank access panel is behind

the

furnace. But you should be able to figure this out as you go.



Someday I'll scan this manual and put it in the archives.



Stuart

'97 EVC



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...]

On Behalf

Of Randy
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 2:17 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Water Leak from Fresh Water Tank on 1999

Winnebago EVC

I bought my 1999 EVC with a slow water leak on the center floor

with

the gray vinyl material. The leak over time has destroyed the OSB
board, and I have a new board to install and even found the

original

gray vinyl material from a source in Washington state.

However, this afternoon I refilled the water tank close to the top
and and am finding water along the driver's side inside wall behind
the small water pump. Winnebago tech support has told me that is
rare that the 13 gallon water tank will itself develop a leak. At
this point it appears to me that this tank will have to be removed

to

see where the leak may be coming from. Winnebago support said they
have seen very few EVCs so they are not sure how it comes out. The
only two choices that I see, are the furnace removes and the tank
slides out thru the rear hatch, or MORE LIKELY, the entire rear

built

in cabinet on the driver's side has to first be removed to examine
the water tank and its fittings.

Does anyone have experience on how to proceed, and if the side wall
of cabinets have to be removed, just how would one proceed doing

such

a thing? I understand that the cabinet attaches to the floor with
screws, but the top part of the cabinet where it ajoins the roof
leaves me a bit confused.

Please help if you have some knowledge here, and if you want to

email

me a phone number at Asic00@sbcglobal. <mailto:Asic00%

40sbcglobal.net> net

that would help too.
Thanks for any assistance. Randy in Michigan 248-546-1207







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In ev_update@..., Stephen Jackson <register@...> wrote:

On my 02 EVWK, I am in the process of the replacing the compressor,
that is if I could get the old one out. The Bently says you need to
remove the alternator first, but I can't get it to budge. I have
loosend the serp belt and removed the 2 bolts on the alternator, plus
the 2 bolts retaining the compressor. Nothing is budging.

Any advice before I get the hammers, pry bars an cutting torch?

--Stephen

Even with the bolts out, the units stay on there really tight. I just
used a large screwdriver and pry the units to get them to pivot.
Notice that the AC will hit the PS fitting. Pry against the fitting
and the AC housing gently to get it to move. Work it, it will come
out. IIRC, there are 2 bolts for the Alt and 2 for the AC.

The fridge that is on my 95 evc. After spending the longest time
learning about my fridge I was able to get it working perfectly. It all
happened by learning how the entire system worked (interrupter,
relighter board,etc) and then making sure everything in the system
works step by step.I also learned by experimentation. Taking the
igniter out and watching how it makes a clicking sound even though the
spark was not jumping. I assumed if i could hear clicking it must be
working but learned thats not true. Bypassing the interrupter to
determine if the reigniter was causing the flame to go out or some
other problem. Anyway sorry to ramble but the point is Dont Give Up On
Your Fridge!!!

Hi,

I seem to remember Gomi posting about tee-ing into, or adding an additional vacuum to the
EGR valve. Mine appears to be getting stuck in the non-vacuum applied position, causing
the CEL to come on. Does anyone have details, or performed the procedure?

Thank you

It's different.
gomi_

--- In ev_update@..., "Joe R" <jromas@...> wrote:

Go ahead and check it out. Yes it does look like all the rest of

them but I'm told it's different???

Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: gti_matt
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Blinking Temp Light on '93 EV GL


--- Joe R <jromas@...> wrote:
> FWI the coolant level sensor, at least for 93, is part of the

coolant resivore and is not

> available seperatly. My local import parts store says it's EV

part only.

I'd have to check for sure but that surprises me. The reservoir

looks like the same round thing

that's in a gazillion VWs. I'd be surprised if the sensor is

different.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

When the bolts are tightened on any of those components, it clamps
tight by sliding the "nut" that the bolt screws into. If you put the
bolts back in about a half inch, and then give them a good whack or two
with a deadblow hammer or mallet, the component should drop right out.
You may need to spray the "nut" with some penetrating oil first
depending on your climate.
When you retighten, you will feel the bolt bottom out, then suddenly
when the nut starts to move it will feel like you have stripped it out-
it will then tighten a few more turns and then snug up.
gomi_

We just had to chime in... sorry this is in the form of a story...

In 2006 we went to help rebuild in the Gulf of Mississippi after
Katrina. We had only a dream of an EVC back then. We travelled from NY
with a 35 person team, 5 different vehicles, including a 12 seat
passenger van that belonged to a friend. That friend and I and our
youngest children spent our time serving the construction teams onsite
meals, snacks.
When we returned we found out that this is a typical Red Cross
function, they take re-done ambulances, retro-fitted with cooking gear
named 'emergency response vehicles' or ERV's and deliver meals and
water to disaster sites. SOOOOO, we decided if we ever bought a cool
EVC (which we did, everything about it is cool, but the fridge)we
would name it the mini-emergency response vehicle or the MERV -
everyone we know, including our kids, only knows the VW party wagon as
one thing... a MERV!

The rear speakers for the EVWK are unique and not easily replaced.
They are straight 5 inch speakers. But its not only that, the frame is
pretty unique too and won't really allow for an airtight fit to
enhance the bass. Most people, after trying a couple of things,
resort to keeping the stock speakers. In the end any replacement would
be only marginally better. And there is not a lot of space to build in
other speakers without impacting any of the moving parts (like the bed).

Florian 03MVWK - have tried to replace the rears at least 3 times.
Still stock.

Our 99 EVC is named Agnes.

--- In ev_update@..., Jim White <jim@...> wrote:

Carl Henderson wrote:

Should probably rename him to "Hannie" from Hannover! ;-)

Oops!

Well, guess I'll just have to tell folks he's a Wolfsburg Edition

EVC... ;-)

Jim

--- In ev_update@..., Jim White <jim@> wrote:

When I got my 97 EVC my friend Mike Levin who has owned several

Westies

was telling me I had to name it. Not being in the habit of naming my
vehicles I said of course I don't. But when I went to place my first
order at GoWesty the first question the web form asks is "What's your
van's name?". It had a default answer of "New Vehicle", but

obviously

that wouldn't do.

So I travel with "Wolfie" because he's from Wolfsburg...

Jim

Terrence Parker wrote:

Dear Eurovan Campers:

I was intrigued by the naming thread, so my wife and I started
kicking names around for our !999 Eurovan Winnebago. We occasionally
look at bigger rigs but always end up liking our more modest camper.
The name we chose....."Thistledew."...a little punny thing.

Terry Parker

--- On Thu, 6/5/08, jenn5jam@ jenn5jam@ wrote:
From: jenn5jam@ jenn5jam@ Subject: [ev_update]
Re: name your Eurovan Camper To: ev_update@... Date:
Thursday, June 5, 2008, 8:02 PM


Mine's "Volkzilla".

I just did a quick review of the California DMV site and some other safety links. I <think> that the biggest safety issue they all bring up is the problem of using Rear Facing infant seats on Rear Facing Vehicle seats, probably because of the way the infant seats are designed to work with the seat belt harness to direct the impact forces. If a rear facing infant seat is used "backwards" it could cause it to flip "heel over head" in a frontal impact.

This from the CA DMV site:

Any child under the age of six weighing less than 60 pounds must be secured in a federally approved child passenger restraint system and ride in the back seat of a vehicle.

A child under the age of six weighing less than 60 pounds may ride in the front seat of a vehicle when:

There is no rear seat or the rear seats are either side-facing jump seats or rear-facing seats.
The child passenger restraint system cannot be installed properly in the rear seat.
All rear seats are already occupied by children under the age of 12 years.
A medical reason requires the child to ride in the front seat.

there is a bit more here:

< article.html>

< article.html>

Pretty confusing!



Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

On Jun 6, 2008, at 1:38 PM, Lee Hart wrote:

Danielle Cummings wrote:

I have looked at the harness and a safety expert said that since the
rear facing seats do not have headrests that they still with the
harness would not be safe and the manuel states over and over NOT to
put any children at all in the rear facing seats and not to use the
tether anchors for harnesses!

The same headrest works for both front seats and the center rear- facing
seats. It seems to me that you would be safer in the rear-facing seat
than in the rear forward-facing seat. But I am not a lawyer, nor am I a
safety expert.
--