开云体育

Hi Dave,

I dont think my fans are running at different speeds. It seems like
they are only running at a single speed. Both fans are opperating at
the same speed. Any advice for testing the multiple fan speeds?

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...>
wrote:

If your radiator cap is leaking you'd know it. It's sealed by a

big

o-ring (over 1" diameter) in the well of the overflow tank. The
o-ring seals long before the cap is screwed down all the way.

Either

the tank holds pressure or it doesn't. Don't waste your time on a

new

one unless you notice the tank failing to hold pressure.

Do the fans always run together? Do they change speeds? What are
your observations?



--- In ev_update@..., "campbellmeister"
<campbellmeister@> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@> wrote:

--- campbellmeister <campbellmeister@> wrote:

Hello All,
I recently purchased an EV GL with 90,000 miles on it and I

am

loving

this thing. Unfortunately I am having an issue with the

cooling

system.

At random times while driving on city streets, the temp

light

begins to

blink and the temp gauge needle begins to climb. The needle

does

not

climb all the way to the top of the meter but it gets close

enough to

make me concerned. Like clockwork, the light stops blinking

and

the

needle begins to plummet back to normal operating

temperatures.

My

cooling fans are operational and there is fluid in my

overflow

reservoir. I was thinking that this might be a sticking

thermostat. Any

advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not overly suspicious of the thermostat myself. T-stats

usually fail in one of two

ways...either fully open (engine usually never fully warms up

unless car isn't moving and is

idling but cools down...way down...after car is moving again)

or

it sticks fully closed, in which

case the car would overheat and the fans would usually not

come on

since the water in the radiator

is still cool and isolated from the hot engine circuit.

It might be a thermostat if it's opening, but just not fully

opening and therefore only partially

restricting water flow, but I've never really seen them fail

that

way myself.

I would instead suspect the lower-speeds fan circuit.

Although

you said the fans are coming on,

are they coming on only in the highest speed? That might be

the

case...the lower speeds aren't

happening and so the coolant heats up and only the highest

speed,

triggered by the thermoswitch

sensing the coolant getting very hot, so that's why you see it

get

close to overheating.

Thanks for your responses. I will go agahead and try the new
radiator cap. As for the fan speeds, I am not totally sure how

to

check the fan speeds. I know that when the AC is running the

fans

are both operating at the same speed. Do you know a simple way

to

check the fan speeds? I've read about a way to close the circuts

on

certain sensors and the fans will operate at different speeds.

I'll

probably go through those checks this weekend unless someone has

an

easier way to check the three fan speeds.

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, tried the gas dryer when this first started. It's possible that is may be the injectors, but the VW mechanic doesn't think so and I have my doubts as well.


Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk

Danielle Cummings wrote:

I have looked at the harness and a safety expert said that since the
rear facing seats do not have headrests that they still with the
harness would not be safe and the manuel states over and over NOT to
put any children at all in the rear facing seats and not to use the
tether anchors for harnesses!

The same headrest works for both front seats and the center rear-facing seats. It seems to me that you would be safer in the rear-facing seat than in the rear forward-facing seat. But I am not a lawyer, nor am I a safety expert.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net

Carl Henderson wrote:

Should probably rename him to "Hannie" from Hannover! ;-)

Oops!

Well, guess I'll just have to tell folks he's a Wolfsburg Edition EVC... ;-)

Jim

--- In ev_update@..., Jim White <jim@...> wrote:

When I got my 97 EVC my friend Mike Levin who has owned several Westies was telling me I had to name it. Not being in the habit of naming my vehicles I said of course I don't. But when I went to place my first order at GoWesty the first question the web form asks is "What's your van's name?". It had a default answer of "New Vehicle", but obviously that wouldn't do.

So I travel with "Wolfie" because he's from Wolfsburg...

Jim

Terrence Parker wrote:

Dear Eurovan Campers:

I was intrigued by the naming thread, so my wife and I started
kicking names around for our !999 Eurovan Winnebago. We occasionally
look at bigger rigs but always end up liking our more modest camper.
The name we chose....."Thistledew."...a little punny thing.

Terry Parker

--- On Thu, 6/5/08, jenn5jam@... jenn5jam@... wrote: From: jenn5jam@... jenn5jam@... Subject: [ev_update]
Re: name your Eurovan Camper To: ev_update@... Date:
Thursday, June 5, 2008, 8:02 PM


Mine's "Volkzilla".

On my 02 EVWK, I am in the process of the replacing the compressor, that is if I could get the old one out. The Bently says you need to remove the alternator first, but I can't get it to budge. I have loosend the serp belt and removed the 2 bolts on the alternator, plus the 2 bolts retaining the compressor. Nothing is budging.

Any advice before I get the hammers, pry bars an cutting torch?

--Stephen

Should probably rename him to "Hannie" from Hannover! ;-)

When I got my 97 EVC my friend Mike Levin who has owned several Westies was telling me I had to name it. Not being in the habit of naming my vehicles I said of course I don't. But when I went to place my first order at GoWesty the first question the web form asks is "What's your van's name?". It had a default answer of "New Vehicle", but obviously that wouldn't do.

So I travel with "Wolfie" because he's from Wolfsburg...

Jim

Terrence Parker wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@... wrote:

If I remember correctly, the EVC has a radio and speakers that are

different

from all other Eurovan models. Many of us non-EVC owners are quite

satisfied

with the original front-door speakers. Should any EVC owner desire

the

original front door speakers in perfect condition from a Weekender,

let me know.

Bob W.
Bob, how about rear cabin speakers for a 03 wknder? Where would be

a good place to get those....I imagine they are unique?

Neal

****Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists

on family

favorites at AOL Food.
()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

We love our '99 EVC. She's got 93K miles, and just purrs. We try to save her for strictly camping--want to drive her till the wheels fall off! We had no choice but to name her "Priscilla, Godess of the Road".

I burn Premium--started out using regular, but she has so much more pep with the premium. I find the extra cost doesn't amount to that much, premium is usually about 20cents/gal higher than regular--for a 20 Gal fill, that's only a difference of $4--and when you're paying around $80 for a fill up, what is another $4. She gets a bit better mileage, too. I usually get 20-22mpg on the hiway, and generally don't use her much around town. Twice I have gotten a freekish 27mpg. Don't know what that was about, refigured it several times, don't think I did it wrong...I'm pretty fastidious about keeping the records in a log. Anyway, like I said, we love her!

Ken
'99 EVC
97402

Sounds like you are down to the injectors, fuel pump or even bad gas (water
in it). Check the pump pressure first, and add some gas dryer. Easiest
stuff first!



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of Steve@...
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 9:43 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] check engine light blues '99 GLS



I posted this quite awhile back and thought I would update the
situation.

I get the occasional cylinder misfire. It can be just #4, or it can be
2,4,6 or multiple misfires. I swapped out the coil the plugs and plug
wires. I checked and replaced vacuum hoses and checked everything I
could think of to check. I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it and
I cleaned the air intake sensor. Nothing seemed to work.

I gave up and took it to the dealer. They replaced a vacuum hose they
thought may be soft and closing up. They checked everything out short
of pulling the injectors and found no problems. They also did some
procedure to clean the valves, but when I picked the van up I got a few
blocks away and the CEL came back on with multiple misfires.

Tonight I replaced the speed sensor as that acted up the other day. It
had been a problem more than a month ago, but the problem went away. I
don't know if this had anything to do with the misfires, but I should
know over the next couple of days.

I'm not sure what else there is to check. The mechanic thinks it's
something simple like a vacuum leak, but he replaced most of the hoses
and this didn't help. He is on vacation for a couple of weeks, so I
have to wait to take it back in. I suspect it could be a bad ECU or
bad connector. I have had a few mornings where I got a high idle.
Performing the adaptive reset corrected the problem.

The van will run perfect for a few days or up to a week. Any other
suggestions are welcome.

Steve
. <> com
636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk

thanks so much for that info!

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@...> wrote:

Florian,
I had to ask my mechanic about the temp. switch as he didn't

record the part number on the bill.

So, he says for the Temp. switch it's: # 025 121 133-80, for the

plug to connect to the switch: # 893 903 231 Also, sometimes the Fan
Switch has to be changed, (but not in our case) # 251 959 481. I
assume these are common VW numbers.

Hope that helps.
One last comment: As the coolant that enters the trany heat

exchangers comes directly from the cylinder head, there is still the
opportunity for very hot water to go to the trany cooler. It did help
to get the fan on sooner and match the thermostat temperature, but
what really dropped the coolant temperature to the trany was the extra
cooler/radiator out in front of all the other radiators. Using a
surface temp scanner, the hose going to the trany cooler is
consistently 20 F cooler than the one leaving the engine.

My mechanic has offered to scan the transmission temperature while

we drive around one of these days. I just need to get over there when
everyone not to busy and the whole gang can go joy ridding.

Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon

Florian <fkahlert@...> wrote:
Just for curiosity - is this the switch we are talking about?


I am intruiged by this lower temp thing. I think that would just do
the trick and get the ATF temp out of the red zone.

Thx
Florian

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@> wrote:

All,
The Thermo. switch was changed out by our local non-dealer

mechanic. Because this lower temp. switch comes from an earlier model
VW, naturally the plug doesn't match so the mechanic changed the plug
on the wiring harness as well. He tells me that he does this to VWs
of all stripes, Vanagon waterboxers and Audis. (he also says that an
added benefit is that the engine running cooler reduces the tendency
for knocking/pinging, thus allowing the use of lower octane fuel,
although I haven't tried that)

The fans probably do run more, however I have noticed that after

cruising at speed (5 over the speed limit in California = 80+ with the
air temp. at 90+F) the fans are not running when we pull into a rest
stop, however they do come on in a minute or less. As for fans
failing, the general consensus on this site has been that the fans
fail when someone beats them up while working in the engine
compartment. (when I have to work around them I either insert a piece
of cardboard to protect them or remove them completely)

The cooler I used is from Summit Racing Equipment

www.summitracing.com model # DER-15502B, (cost $32.39 + shipping) it's
an "engine oil cooler" 3/4 inch thick with 1/2 inch tubing. As the
hoses coming out of the engine and going to the heat exchanger on top
of the trany. are approx. 3/4 inch. I.D., the larger the cooler tubing
the better. (this cooler was the only one they had that was thin
enough to fit behind the grill and in front of the AC heat exchanger
and that had at least 1/2 inch tubing.

For the plumbing part if this, I didn't cut any existing hoses but

disconnected the line coming from the engine and used a lot of brass
fittings to connect the new cooler into the coolant loop to the trany
heat exchanger. (the brass fittings can cost as much as the cooler,
and require more than one trip to the supplier) The new 3/4 inch
hoses where routed from the engine compartment to the grill area next
to the drivers side head light. there is some plastic shrouding that
can be cut away with a mat knife to allow the hoses though.

Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon



rvdalton <rvdalton@> wrote:
I wondered also if this was a stock thermostatic switch

(unscrew the

VW one and install this one in its place)? If a stock switch, what
temperatures are readily available and from what source? Are you
saying both fans come on at 176 F with the new switch?

From what I've heard the VW cooling system (although operating at too
high a temperature for the ATF) has good capacity. This might mean
that the 176F fan switch alone would keep the ATF cooler (without the
separate cooler). If that's the case it might be a choice between
operating the engine too cold (176F or lower?), and operating the ATF
too high (over 200F but depends on how often you want to change ATF)
Also a factor is that the fans have been known to disintegrate with
resulting damage to the radiator, so operating the fans nearly all the
time may not be the best choice.

Rob

--- In ev_update@..., "jd_boldt" <jd_boldt@> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@> wrote:
...I added a lower temp. thermostatic switch for the fans (80c /

176f

) and a cooler just behind the grill to pre-cool the coolant before
entering the heat exchanger on the top of the transmission. So far,
the ATF seems to be staying below 170F, even in the extreme heat and
climbing hills.


Dale;
can you elaborate on your tranny pre-cooler, (where did you source
that?) I'm looking for one that will fit into the space. My
preliminary experiment using a heater core showed the precooler to
have a positive result, but the heater core will not fit between Rad
and grill (too thick, hoses in wrong spot)

Also did you change the engine thermostat and fan thermos yourself,
You can elaborate on that as well or email me, I need to do that

too.

I find the VR-6 and eurovan to challenge my previous VW-Diesel

skills.

janb
Washougal, WA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Rick,
My '99 Weekender fits in that garage.-
Peggy

I posted this quite awhile back and thought I would update the situation.

I get the occasional cylinder misfire. It can be just #4, or it can be 2,4,6 or multiple misfires. I swapped out the coil the plugs and plug wires. I checked and replaced vacuum hoses and checked everything I could think of to check. I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it and I cleaned the air intake sensor. Nothing seemed to work.

I gave up and took it to the dealer. They replaced a vacuum hose they thought may be soft and closing up. They checked everything out short of pulling the injectors and found no problems. They also did some procedure to clean the valves, but when I picked the van up I got a few blocks away and the CEL came back on with multiple misfires.

Tonight I replaced the speed sensor as that acted up the other day. It had been a problem more than a month ago, but the problem went away. I don't know if this had anything to do with the misfires, but I should know over the next couple of days.

I'm not sure what else there is to check. The mechanic thinks it's something simple like a vacuum leak, but he replaced most of the hoses and this didn't help. He is on vacation for a couple of weeks, so I have to wait to take it back in. I suspect it could be a bad ECU or bad connector. I have had a few mornings where I got a high idle. Performing the adaptive reset corrected the problem.

The van will run perfect for a few days or up to a week. Any other suggestions are welcome.


Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk

I drove last Saturday to the Funfest at Motorwerks in Effingham Illinois. I averaged 24.2 mpg driving 60-65.

I use my Scangauge to help me get better mileage. You can see in real time your mpg and it helps you accelerate more slowly. I get my best mpg around 40 mph.

I used the cruise most of the way until it started cutting out on me. I replaced my speed sensor tonight and hopefully this will resolve that issue. I have been getting an occasional CEL for the speed sensor, but it hadn't acted up in quite awhile until I got back from this trip.


Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk

JD,
I know what you mean about dissimilar metals, but I really wanted to stay away from plastic fittings and anyway we have the special VW pink coolant juice mixed with distilled water and a bottle of "KOOL IT" just for extra credit. So, the corrosion thing should be pretty minimal.
A Gage would be nice and I will get around to that, however I have learned my lesson concerning gages with our last camper, an air cooled vanagon with too many gages to watch. Sometimes you don't want to know. On one steep hill in very hot weather when the oil temp was hitting 280f and the oil pressure was dropping and the head temp was above 500f our eldest sitting up front says "dad just don't look".
Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon

jd_boldt <jd_boldt@...> wrote:

The cooler I used is from Summit Racing Equipment

www.summitracing.com model # DER-15502B, (cost $32.39 + shipping) it's
an "engine oil cooler" 3/4 inch thick with 1/2 inch tubing. ..

Thanks for the info,
Any concern with adding Brass and Copper to the mostly Alum. coolant
loop? (becoming caustic due to dissimilar metals + coolant?) Maybe It
would be a good idea to change coolant annually or use a corrosion
resistant additive. I used a flushing tee to join my coolant lines, so
it would be quick to change the coolant.

Did you add a tranny temp gauge?

I had my tranny temp gauge in line with my external tranny cooler, but
can't find a convenient port in Tranny, some have welded a fitting
onto the pan. I may have to add a fitting to the top of the HOT side
banjo bolt of the factory cooler.

If you add antfreeze make sure it made for potable water

Forest

Thanks for the parts info. Being lazy, I still would like to see how
much the ATF can be lowered just with the thermo switch change.

Rob

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@...> wrote:

Florian,
I had to ask my mechanic about the temp. switch as he didn't

record the part number on the bill.

So, he says for the Temp. switch it's: # 025 121 133-80, for the

plug to connect to the switch: # 893 903 231 Also, sometimes the Fan
Switch has to be changed, (but not in our case) # 251 959 481. I
assume these are common VW numbers.

Hope that helps.
One last comment: As the coolant that enters the trany heat

exchangers comes directly from the cylinder head, there is still the
opportunity for very hot water to go to the trany cooler. It did help
to get the fan on sooner and match the thermostat temperature, but
what really dropped the coolant temperature to the trany was the extra
cooler/radiator out in front of all the other radiators. Using a
surface temp scanner, the hose going to the trany cooler is
consistently 20 F cooler than the one leaving the engine.

My mechanic has offered to scan the transmission temperature while

we drive around one of these days. I just need to get over there when
everyone not to busy and the whole gang can go joy ridding.

Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon

Florian <fkahlert@...> wrote:
Just for curiosity - is this the switch we are talking about?


I am intruiged by this lower temp thing. I think that would just do
the trick and get the ATF temp out of the red zone.

Thx
Florian

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@> wrote:

All,
The Thermo. switch was changed out by our local non-dealer

mechanic. Because this lower temp. switch comes from an earlier model
VW, naturally the plug doesn't match so the mechanic changed the plug
on the wiring harness as well. He tells me that he does this to VWs
of all stripes, Vanagon waterboxers and Audis. (he also says that an
added benefit is that the engine running cooler reduces the tendency
for knocking/pinging, thus allowing the use of lower octane fuel,
although I haven't tried that)

The fans probably do run more, however I have noticed that after

cruising at speed (5 over the speed limit in California = 80+ with the
air temp. at 90+F) the fans are not running when we pull into a rest
stop, however they do come on in a minute or less. As for fans
failing, the general consensus on this site has been that the fans
fail when someone beats them up while working in the engine
compartment. (when I have to work around them I either insert a piece
of cardboard to protect them or remove them completely)

The cooler I used is from Summit Racing Equipment

www.summitracing.com model # DER-15502B, (cost $32.39 + shipping) it's
an "engine oil cooler" 3/4 inch thick with 1/2 inch tubing. As the
hoses coming out of the engine and going to the heat exchanger on top
of the trany. are approx. 3/4 inch. I.D., the larger the cooler tubing
the better. (this cooler was the only one they had that was thin
enough to fit behind the grill and in front of the AC heat exchanger
and that had at least 1/2 inch tubing.

For the plumbing part if this, I didn't cut any existing hoses but

disconnected the line coming from the engine and used a lot of brass
fittings to connect the new cooler into the coolant loop to the trany
heat exchanger. (the brass fittings can cost as much as the cooler,
and require more than one trip to the supplier) The new 3/4 inch
hoses where routed from the engine compartment to the grill area next
to the drivers side head light. there is some plastic shrouding that
can be cut away with a mat knife to allow the hoses though.

Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon



rvdalton <rvdalton@> wrote:
I wondered also if this was a stock thermostatic switch

(unscrew the

VW one and install this one in its place)? If a stock switch, what
temperatures are readily available and from what source? Are you
saying both fans come on at 176 F with the new switch?

From what I've heard the VW cooling system (although operating at too
high a temperature for the ATF) has good capacity. This might mean
that the 176F fan switch alone would keep the ATF cooler (without the
separate cooler). If that's the case it might be a choice between
operating the engine too cold (176F or lower?), and operating the ATF
too high (over 200F but depends on how often you want to change ATF)
Also a factor is that the fans have been known to disintegrate with
resulting damage to the radiator, so operating the fans nearly all the
time may not be the best choice.

Rob

--- In ev_update@..., "jd_boldt" <jd_boldt@> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@> wrote:
...I added a lower temp. thermostatic switch for the fans (80c /

176f

) and a cooler just behind the grill to pre-cool the coolant before
entering the heat exchanger on the top of the transmission. So far,
the ATF seems to be staying below 170F, even in the extreme heat and
climbing hills.


Dale;
can you elaborate on your tranny pre-cooler, (where did you source
that?) I'm looking for one that will fit into the space. My
preliminary experiment using a heater core showed the precooler to
have a positive result, but the heater core will not fit between Rad
and grill (too thick, hoses in wrong spot)

Also did you change the engine thermostat and fan thermos yourself,
You can elaborate on that as well or email me, I need to do that

too.

I find the VR-6 and eurovan to challenge my previous VW-Diesel

skills.

janb
Washougal, WA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Florian,
I had to ask my mechanic about the temp. switch as he didn't record the part number on the bill.
So, he says for the Temp. switch it's: # 025 121 133-80, for the plug to connect to the switch: # 893 903 231 Also, sometimes the Fan Switch has to be changed, (but not in our case) # 251 959 481. I assume these are common VW numbers.
Hope that helps.
One last comment: As the coolant that enters the trany heat exchangers comes directly from the cylinder head, there is still the opportunity for very hot water to go to the trany cooler. It did help to get the fan on sooner and match the thermostat temperature, but what really dropped the coolant temperature to the trany was the extra cooler/radiator out in front of all the other radiators. Using a surface temp scanner, the hose going to the trany cooler is consistently 20 F cooler than the one leaving the engine.
My mechanic has offered to scan the transmission temperature while we drive around one of these days. I just need to get over there when everyone not to busy and the whole gang can go joy ridding.
Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon

Florian <fkahlert@...> wrote:
Just for curiosity - is this the switch we are talking about?


I am intruiged by this lower temp thing. I think that would just do
the trick and get the ATF temp out of the red zone.

Thx
Florian

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@...> wrote:

All,
The Thermo. switch was changed out by our local non-dealer

mechanic. Because this lower temp. switch comes from an earlier model
VW, naturally the plug doesn't match so the mechanic changed the plug
on the wiring harness as well. He tells me that he does this to VWs
of all stripes, Vanagon waterboxers and Audis. (he also says that an
added benefit is that the engine running cooler reduces the tendency
for knocking/pinging, thus allowing the use of lower octane fuel,
although I haven't tried that)

The fans probably do run more, however I have noticed that after

cruising at speed (5 over the speed limit in California = 80+ with the
air temp. at 90+F) the fans are not running when we pull into a rest
stop, however they do come on in a minute or less. As for fans
failing, the general consensus on this site has been that the fans
fail when someone beats them up while working in the engine
compartment. (when I have to work around them I either insert a piece
of cardboard to protect them or remove them completely)

The cooler I used is from Summit Racing Equipment

www.summitracing.com model # DER-15502B, (cost $32.39 + shipping) it's
an "engine oil cooler" 3/4 inch thick with 1/2 inch tubing. As the
hoses coming out of the engine and going to the heat exchanger on top
of the trany. are approx. 3/4 inch. I.D., the larger the cooler tubing
the better. (this cooler was the only one they had that was thin
enough to fit behind the grill and in front of the AC heat exchanger
and that had at least 1/2 inch tubing.

For the plumbing part if this, I didn't cut any existing hoses but

disconnected the line coming from the engine and used a lot of brass
fittings to connect the new cooler into the coolant loop to the trany
heat exchanger. (the brass fittings can cost as much as the cooler,
and require more than one trip to the supplier) The new 3/4 inch
hoses where routed from the engine compartment to the grill area next
to the drivers side head light. there is some plastic shrouding that
can be cut away with a mat knife to allow the hoses though.

Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon



rvdalton <rvdalton@...> wrote:
I wondered also if this was a stock thermostatic switch

(unscrew the

VW one and install this one in its place)? If a stock switch, what
temperatures are readily available and from what source? Are you
saying both fans come on at 176 F with the new switch?

From what I've heard the VW cooling system (although operating at too
high a temperature for the ATF) has good capacity. This might mean
that the 176F fan switch alone would keep the ATF cooler (without the
separate cooler). If that's the case it might be a choice between
operating the engine too cold (176F or lower?), and operating the ATF
too high (over 200F but depends on how often you want to change ATF)
Also a factor is that the fans have been known to disintegrate with
resulting damage to the radiator, so operating the fans nearly all the
time may not be the best choice.

Rob

--- In ev_update@..., "jd_boldt" <jd_boldt@> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@> wrote:
...I added a lower temp. thermostatic switch for the fans (80c / 176f
) and a cooler just behind the grill to pre-cool the coolant before
entering the heat exchanger on the top of the transmission. So far,
the ATF seems to be staying below 170F, even in the extreme heat and
climbing hills.


Dale;
can you elaborate on your tranny pre-cooler, (where did you source
that?) I'm looking for one that will fit into the space. My
preliminary experiment using a heater core showed the precooler to
have a positive result, but the heater core will not fit between Rad
and grill (too thick, hoses in wrong spot)

Also did you change the engine thermostat and fan thermos yourself,
You can elaborate on that as well or email me, I need to do that too.
I find the VR-6 and eurovan to challenge my previous VW-Diesel skills.

janb
Washougal, WA

All,
We just returned from a trip to Texas and back, from Oregon.
Fully loaded (6,000 lb.) EVC with a bag of fire wood in the roof rack.
On the way down it was 85mph+ though CA and Arizona (still getting passed by trucks and pickups) result 18 to 20 on 91 oc.
On the way back, a leisurely pace (45-55) though the red rock country and climbing up to 9,900 ft and down and then up again: result 20-22 on 91oc and one time with 93oc in Idaho with no apparent advantage.
On a trip to South Dakota we did get 22 going 85mph all day, however we where headed strait east and had a fierce tale wind.
Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon


Ariel Calonne <acalonne@...> wrote:
That's believable but that's not my point.

My point was that the implication that EV's get better mileage at
higher speeds is likely false. The efficiency gain in the engine would
have to be huge to overcome the increased resistance. See

g_and_mpg.html

There may be exceptions for some vehicles, but I doubt it for our uber
boxes.

Now I seem to have noticed increased mileage on 87 as opposed to 91
fuel - my imagination or bad calculator? I dunno.

Ariel Calonne
'99 GLS 97k
Santa Barbara, CA

--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

--- gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

--- Ariel Calonne <acalonne@...> wrote:

My 99 GLS 12V VR6 has averaged 16.6 mpg over its life in gentle

mainly

city driving. I get 18.5 at 65 MPH highway and 20.2 at 60 MPH.

Any one who thinks their EV gets better mileage at 70-75 than at

55-60

either has a bad calculator or severe delusions.

At an indicated 70mph, cruise control on, no A/C, windows up, I got

21.5mpg last December on the

way back to San Diego from Santa Maria. I'm not delusionary and my

calculator worked.

Oh and that was with a '00 12V VR6 too.

Dear Eurovan Campers:

I was intrigued by the naming thread, so my wife and I started kicking names around for our !999 Eurovan Winnebago. We occasionally look at bigger rigs but always end up liking our more modest camper. The name we chose....."Thistledew."...a little punny thing.

Terry Parker