开云体育

"Totally cold" would work. I did mine after a 20-minute cool down. The key
is finding out if the engine temp is still causing an increase in coolant
pressure. I bled off the coolant system pressure, then re-tightened the
reservoir cap, waited a few minutes before removing the cap again, then found I had
no pressure build-up as I loosened the cap. The coolant will still be quite
warm but tolerable when the old sensor is removed.

Bob W.

Jim -

I don't run my Norcold on LP, but I bought a
chimney sweep brush from Home depot ~15 years ago.
You may find other uses for an air compressor & shop
vac, to justify tools vs. chimney sweep labor.
[That's my excuse for purchasing tools, anyway.]

Jack_son '03 EVC '01 Passat

==================================================
--- In ev_update@..., Jim White <jim@...> wrote:

gailco99 wrote:

Thanks Stuart and Forest

I am taking the refrigerator in tomorrow and the man will take

it out and clean out the

burner box and stuff. Lets hope it works. I will bring a

downloaded copy of the Norcold

manual with me.

Still open for any other ideas...

Gail

Having soot come out the exhaust means you have a *lot* of soot in

the

burner box and/or flue. Wolfie (97 EVC) had the same problem and,
although the burner stayed lit on propane, the cooling was poor and

LP

usage high (even though fine on AC). I tried the vacuum thing and

got

some improvement, but then the guys @ GoWesty blew it out with an

air

hose. It has cooled fabulous since then (just as well as on AC),
although it was very hard to start for a couple weeks after that.

If/when it soots up again, I'm going to try a professional chimney

sweep

because I think they will have the tools to do a good cleaning via

the

vents.

Jim

That is poor mileage for a '95 on the highway. If it is for "around town"
with A/C operating, it may be par.

My 2001 Weekender experience is around 18 city, 20 highway at speed limit.

Bob W.

Here is a link to the green sensor in question. It is found under three
different areas
in our web store, those being.... cooling system, fuel system and engine
electrical.



Steve Schock
EUROPARTS-San Diego
The Eurovan parts source
Website: europarts-sd.com
Phone: 858-451-0020

Secure online ordering at:




crazylev_2000 wrote:

87 octane US Gallons
My average in rural driving is 22.7...my worst is 20.7(all city driving).best ever was on rather flat all highway speeds of 75-80 mph with heavy load (7 passengers) no wind 23.6 plain ole ev so lighter than the camper

gailco99 wrote:

Thanks Stuart and Forest
I am taking the refrigerator in tomorrow and the man will take it out and clean out the burner box and stuff. Lets hope it works. I will bring a downloaded copy of the Norcold manual with me. Still open for any other ideas...
Gail

Having soot come out the exhaust means you have a *lot* of soot in the burner box and/or flue. Wolfie (97 EVC) had the same problem and, although the burner stayed lit on propane, the cooling was poor and LP usage high (even though fine on AC). I tried the vacuum thing and got some improvement, but then the guys @ GoWesty blew it out with an air hose. It has cooled fabulous since then (just as well as on AC), although it was very hard to start for a couple weeks after that.

If/when it soots up again, I'm going to try a professional chimney sweep because I think they will have the tools to do a good cleaning via the vents.

Jim

I check for the first time since i bought it last summer, the mileage
of my 96 ev camper and his 5 cylinder anémic motor.
The vehicle and the motor are in great shape and very well maintenance
Running with regular gas 97 octane, I made 17 miles per canadian gallon
which is 14.3 miles per us gallon, What is yours?? dont forget to
mention the type of gallon us or canadian and the motor you have V6 12
or 24 valves, That would be interested to see if there is significant
difference depending of motorisation.

97 EVC, 12v @ 107,000 miles

91-93 octane gas

18 mpg @ 70 up mph rural-flat terrain
21 mpg @ 55-60 mph rural-flat terrain

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC


****
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking
with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.

(;NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

The intake is where air flows through the air filter and into the
engine via the intake manifold. I can't find you an online picture
since various engine covers block the view. The gang of three
sensors is below and to the passenger side of the oil fill cap.

The europarts sensor is here:



--- In ev_update@..., "crazylev_2000" <jonathan@...> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@> wrote:
Dave,

Pardon my ignorance about car stuff, but where and what is the

"intake"? I'm pretty handy

with a tool or two, but not real knowledgable about stuff under the

hood.

By intake, is that cluster near where the air filter is on the

passenger side of the engine

compartment? This sounds like something I can tackle if I know what

and where to look

for.

I looked on Europarts web site and didn't see anything that lookked

like a D shaped

sensor under their exhaust and emissions section. I did cruise that

site and man are parts

for this van expensive. Glad this one is only 20 dollarsUS or so.

Thanks.

Jonathan

There are three sensors side by side on a triple gang fitting near the
intake. I wouldn't worry which is which. Just disconnect all three,
clean them and their connectors, and reconnect them. Live with if
for a while and see if you still get a CEL.

Then, if you do, as others have said, don't bother with any further
troubleshooting. Just order a new D-shaped green one from europarts
and have it installed.

Make sure he has a long brush to clean out those tubes!



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of gailco99
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 4:07 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: refrigerator woes



Thanks Stuart and Forest

I am taking the refrigerator in tomorrow and the man will take it out and
clean out the
burner box and stuff. Lets hope it works. I will bring a downloaded copy of
the Norcold
manual with me.

Still open for any other ideas...

Gail

--- In ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com,
"gailco99" <gailco99@...> wrote:

Hi all

Having trouble with refrig in 2002 EVC. Had the thermocoupler replaced,

now it gets
cold

with plug in but sporadic with propane. When the propane does keep it cool

it runs very
hot

with smoke and soot coming out of the vent. I have been told it needs more

oxygen but
do

not know how to do that.

I have somebody who will work on it but he needs suggestions. Could this

all be a
result of

the burner box needing cleaning?

Could also use a recommendation for somebody who does work on these

fridges out
here.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Gail in Mill Valley, California

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:
Dave,

Pardon my ignorance about car stuff, but where and what is the "intake"? I'm pretty handy
with a tool or two, but not real knowledgable about stuff under the hood.

By intake, is that cluster near where the air filter is on the passenger side of the engine
compartment? This sounds like something I can tackle if I know what and where to look
for.

I looked on Europarts web site and didn't see anything that lookked like a D shaped
sensor under their exhaust and emissions section. I did cruise that site and man are parts
for this van expensive. Glad this one is only 20 dollarsUS or so.

Thanks.

Jonathan

There are three sensors side by side on a triple gang fitting near the
intake. I wouldn't worry which is which. Just disconnect all three,
clean them and their connectors, and reconnect them. Live with if
for a while and see if you still get a CEL.

Then, if you do, as others have said, don't bother with any further
troubleshooting. Just order a new D-shaped green one from europarts
and have it installed.

Can you tell me where I might find Mike's write up on how to trouble
shoot the cooling fan?

Thanks


--- In ev_update@..., "Joe R" <jromas@...> wrote:

Make sure the both cooling fans are operating properly. They are

redundant (two sets of relays, resisters and fuses and she be on at
the same time at the same speed) and have 3 speeds. Mike did a
write up on the website on trouble shooting the cooling fans.

Joe R

----- Original Message -----
From: campbellmeister
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 6:19 AM
Subject: [ev_update] Cooling problem in 93 GL


Hello All,
I recently purchased an EV GL with 90,000 miles on it and I am

loving

this thing. Unfortunately I am having an issue with the cooling

system.

At random times while driving on city streets, the temp light

begins to

blink and the temp gauge needle begins to climb. The needle does

not

climb all the way to the top of the meter but it gets close

enough to

make me concerned. Like clockwork, the light stops blinking and

the

needle begins to plummet back to normal operating temperatures.

My

cooling fans are operational and there is fluid in my overflow
reservoir. I was thinking that this might be a sticking

thermostat. Any

advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advace!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In ev_update@..., "illinirocketscientist"
<websailn2@...> wrote:

OK. Curiosity got the better of me and I had to try my padded cable
canoe tiedowns to secure the Eurovan doors.

These tiedowns come in pairs. I used one across the front between the
front door inside handles, and the second one looped around the sliding
door top post (the part that travels in the top track) and then around
and under the front underside of the passenger seat. Then I hopped out
the rear hatch.

It worked fine, but it seems like a hassle to play Houdini everytime
you need to get in and out of your own car. Plus, I'm never certain my
rear hatch will open reliably which would leave you by the side of the
road looking like an idiot. ;-)

Regards,
Duane
2000 EVC


--- In ev_update@..., "illinirocketscientist"
<websailn2@> wrote:

I've got these padded cables for locking down canoes and kayaks.
They work well and are well made. The canoe ones are 13 feet long so
you could loop them around seats, door handles and the like. Not
sure how you'd get out of the car afterwards, though.




Duane
2000 EVC

this is pretty much my idea also. but why not put the cable lock on
the outside so you leave via the slider, then lock it, and return the
same way.

--- In ev_update@..., "Florian" <fkahlert@...> wrote:

What i don't understand is why the door knobs are making a difference
- any self respecting thief will have a flat blade and unlock the door
by moving it into the side next to the window and grab the mechanism
in the door, right?
Isn't it all about visual prevention anyway. Anyone who really wants
to get in the van at a trail head can just smash one of the many
windows the van has and enter that way. Just make it painfully obvious
that there is nothing to steal (e.g. leave the empty open camera bag
on the seat (big sign EMPTY on it for the dimmer bulbs)

About being robbed while sleeping in the van is a different story.
Maybe an NRA sticker (magnetic so you can remove the embarrassing
evidence in the morning) or one of those "Guns don't kill people..."
or something equally inappropriate may just do the trick. Crass
Pictograms may help to. If traveling south of the boarder, maybe in
Spanish and English, north of the border add French as needed.
rule - if someone really wants to get in the van, they will.
In Europe they had issues in many southern places that thieves use
sleep inducing gas to tranquilize people in the motorhome and then get
in and steal things. Reimo I think has gas detection kits.

Florian
03 MVWK


--- In ev_update@..., "Tobi - yahoo" <tobibenne@> wrote:

One word of caution.

Replacing the door lock knobs with ones that hide from view can

create a safety hazard. In the event of an accident if they are
locked or accidentally lock in a collision, no easy way exists to
unlock your door (except the remote which may or may not work after
the accident, or you may be unconscious and can not press the button).

When I am parked at trail heads I do put the hiding lock knobs on,

but put the stock ones back before driving off. This is a pain to do,
but I feel safer knowing the doors can be opened in an accident.

Tobi

the flat blade will do the 2 front doors. i am not sure about the
slider.thats why i want a bolt or other device to keep the slider closed.
trailheads are probably hopeless, but empty shotgun shells, beer cans,
and a note that says ill be back soon might help.
i am not worried about being in the van. i have a 12g for that. and i
see nothing embarrasing about the nra.

i do not lock the doors while driving. but i see your point. i do have pepper spray handy.

On one of the few nights that my van was locked but not alarmed, somebody smashed the
side window and took two bags that were in there. This did not happen while camping,
but in front of my house which is in an amazingly "safe" neighborhood. Unfortunately, my
laptop was in one of the bags (although disguised) and I think they were very surprised to
find it there.

I had an alarm put on my car when I bought it because I felt that campers were sitting
ducks for breakins. I realize that may not prevent something from happening, but when
sleeping in an area I'm not completely comfortable in or parking in certain areas I do feel
safer with the alarm activated. When I'm camping around a lot of people, etc. I disarm the
alarm and just lock the door when I'm sleeping so I don't disturb other people.

Gail
2002EVC
Mill Valley, CA

Thanks Stuart and Forest

I am taking the refrigerator in tomorrow and the man will take it out and clean out the
burner box and stuff. Lets hope it works. I will bring a downloaded copy of the Norcold
manual with me.

Still open for any other ideas...

Gail




--- In ev_update@..., "gailco99" <gailco99@...> wrote:

Hi all

Having trouble with refrig in 2002 EVC. Had the thermocoupler replaced, now it gets

cold

with plug in but sporadic with propane. When the propane does keep it cool it runs very

hot

with smoke and soot coming out of the vent. I have been told it needs more oxygen but

do

not know how to do that.

I have somebody who will work on it but he needs suggestions. Could this all be a

result of

the burner box needing cleaning?

Could also use a recommendation for somebody who does work on these fridges out

here.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Gail in Mill Valley, California

If you re going to replace that sensor, it is best to go in through the
bottom. Remove the sound deadening pan, look up at the bottom front of the
engine. You will find the thermostat housing (look for large coolant houses).
There is the temp sensor and a plug. To replace the sensor, you will need the
part, an o-ring, and a clip to hold the snesor in. Relieve the pressure in
the coolant system by taking off the cap on the coolant reservoir, then put
the cap back on; having the cap on reduces the amount of coolant loss when the
sensor is replaced.

If you are uncomfortable withe the procedure, consider having a mechanic do
it.

Bob W.

As Stuart said --if someone was in there they* should* have cleaned things
out ---but that means little. Try the vacuum trick and if that does not work
it takes about an hour to get in there and clean out the burner and clean
the flue. other than that make sure that you park pretty level. But it
sounds like to me that it's not burning correctly. In that case it's worth
the time to take it out and clean the burner , box and flue. Spiders , wasps
or any number of bugs and small animals could get in there.

Forest

OK. Curiosity got the better of me and I had to try my padded cable
canoe tiedowns to secure the Eurovan doors.

These tiedowns come in pairs. I used one across the front between the
front door inside handles, and the second one looped around the sliding
door top post (the part that travels in the top track) and then around
and under the front underside of the passenger seat. Then I hopped out
the rear hatch.

It worked fine, but it seems like a hassle to play Houdini everytime
you need to get in and out of your own car. Plus, I'm never certain my
rear hatch will open reliably which would leave you by the side of the
road looking like an idiot. ;-)

Regards,
Duane
2000 EVC


--- In ev_update@..., "illinirocketscientist"
<websailn2@...> wrote:

I've got these padded cables for locking down canoes and kayaks.
They work well and are well made. The canoe ones are 13 feet long so
you could loop them around seats, door handles and the like. Not
sure how you'd get out of the car afterwards, though.




Duane
2000 EVC