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--- dkottum <dkottum@...> wrote:

We have a 95 EVC also, and I feel safer with driving lights as well. How about this approach?
Is there a (good) kit to light the headlights when the engine is running?

There's lots of aftermarket DRL kits out there. Any of them should work fine.

We have a 95 EVC also, and I feel safer with driving lights as well. How about this approach?
Is there a (good) kit to light the headlights when the engine is running?

Doug Kottum, Battle Lake, MN
34 years with VW campers

Help-- I came across a stumper yesterday. Or at least my mechanic did.
The headlight chime in my 95 EVC stopped working a while ago. the
mechanic traced it to the switch-- I live 50 miles from the shop so he
ordered one and I took the van back Tuesday so he could put it
in--still no chime. After tracing the wires with the diagram he still
could not find the problem. Has anyone had this happen.
I am willing to put up with this but I like to drive with the lights
on and seem to forget to turn them off often --operator malfunction.
When these chimes first came out I hated them, but in my old age I
guess i need it.

Thanks
Forest

David -

A Trojan 105 AH Marine bat came with my '03 EVC, &
I added a second 105 AH Marine for double capacity.
I built a new plastic box to fit them - tightly!.

If you plan to keep the original bat box, you may
want to buy the largest deep cycle that will fit.
Look at the AGM higher capacity & price by Optima.
Their Yellow Top are Marine batteries, which have
higher rating for a given size. Add a "T" for 3/8"
Stainless threaded terminals, to fit 3/8" wing nuts.

EVC house batteries never get a full charge from
the alternator. I use a small Harbor Freight ~1.5A
trickle "Float" charger on my house batteries - now
on sale for $6. I modified it with a resistor to
bring it up from 13.3 to 13.8V. If I charge my pair
for a day or two per week, they stay up fine.
Keeping batteries above 11 - 11.5V prolongs bat
life. If I don't drive the EVC once a week, I charge
the front bat also.

If you can't leave extension cord on van overnight,
use the converter/charger, which will top house bat
up a lot faster [at 15 Amps]. To charge front bat at
the same time, leave key on, with hand brake on to
kill the driving lights. The converter/charger will
charge front & rear bats together.

Regards,

Jack_son

==================================================
--In ev_update@..., "davidaprilh" <smithhorner@...> wrote:

The auxiliary battery in my '02 EVC is dead. The VW manual says

that

it's important to chose a replacement with the correct specs, but
neither the VW manual nor the Winnie manual list any specs other

than

12 V. The OEM battery is long gone, of course, so I can't check the
specs on the case. I don't want to assume that the previous owner
installed the right battery, and I do assume that my local battery

guy

will know nothing about the EVC.

What ARE the specs for the '02 EVC auxiliary battery? I've been
reading about Trojans, Dekas, and Odysseys on this board, but which
models match the VW specs? Or does it matter if I depart from the

VW

specs as long as I go with a deep cycle 12 V battery that fits in

the

EVC's battery box and has lots of Ah? My dead battery is a Werker
31MDC: 12V, 105 Ah, 775 CCA.

Thanks for your help!

David
'02 EVC

--- Stuart MacMillan <macgroup@...> wrote:

Won't the torque curve for that engine be less than optimal for the EV?
That is, less low end torque? A six speed might be a good idea.

I'm not familiar w/the BDF engine's specs so I couldn't say.

The 12V VR6 AES Eurovan engine, when compared to the rest of VW's 12V VR6s, did have a different
torque curve, yes, but I don't know if VW went a different route with the 24V AXK engine vs. the
other 24V VR6s. However note that the AXK does have the same 201hp as the rest of VW's 24V VR6s
so it's quite possible that it's not noticeably different.

Louis is a good guy. To me the sticking caliper is the main issue. When
the piston doesn't retract a bit after application, the pad rubs on the
rotor, and that pad wears out fast! When it gets down to metal, you grab
big time! Like a full spin out. BTDT. Twice. And survived. Had to change
my pants though.

Stuart
'97 EVC, but had an '84 Westy for 250k miles!


Subject: Re: Road trip and mechanics litany of issues

Hi,

Thanks everyone - this was from the Wagon Shop in Kirkland, WA who does
work on Vanagons, but I am taking in to Louis Foreign Auto tomorrow for
a second opinion.

It is a 2.1 liter (sorry!) and was a rebuilt installed by Wolfsburg
Motor Works in Ballard.

I really only wanted an oil change and the belts put on - all my records
going back don't show any of these problems.

Time is an issue as I do have a job, and the road trip is also related
to a job....

The van doesn't pull to the side, doesn't make noise....does leak a bit
of radiator fluid...I've been driving it on a lot of trips of three hour
duration....

Has a new sensors....which might have leaned it up a bit....

Les Schwab checked the front brakes a few months ago and said they were
fine.

So....

I guess we will see tomorrow - I just have to wake up at 4:30 am in
order to pull off the second opinion!

I know there are some good mechanics around Eureka and Arcata,
however...

Thanks,

Andree

We're just talking about changing fluid, and cleaning the pan and
filter. We aren't talking about cleaning the entire guts. A solvent
flush is not SOP for a fluid change.

Besides, if the trans is so bad off that it's all gummed up that's an
entirely different conversation.


The idea is to replace worn out fluid. If the fluid is baked and
caked to the point where a solvent is indicated, you've got bigger
problems.



--- In ev_update@..., "Joe R" <jromas@...> wrote:

Part of the operation is to flush it with some type of cleaning

fluid besides transmission fluid.

Joe R
----- Original Message -----
From: dave_king_ev
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 9:51 AM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Trans Fluid Change Detroit



Flushing only adds and drains fluid simultaneously. The fluid moves
in the same direction and under the same pressure whether or not it is
being flushed: it is pumped normally by the internal transmission
fluid pump. There is no plausible reason flushing is going to stir up
anything.

Sometimes -- like 40 years ago -- folks would "back flush" (allegedly)
their cooling systems and maybe some of the crud that had precipitated
out would get pushed around. Maybe.

But, that has nothing to do with a fluid exchange in an automatic
transmission.

--- In ev_update@..., "jeff_westy" <k-and-j.drexel@>

wrote:

>
> You might try:
> If they don't do it, they might know who does.
>
> FWIW, there's EV-myth that flushing might cause more harm than good.
> The only plausible reason I can think of is that the flushing
> dislodges contamination the messes up solenoids or valves... of

course

> it's just as easily myth.
>
> --- In ev_update@..., "Sean" <kowalskisean@> wrote:
> >
> > Anyone know of a good place for a FULL (suck 'n pump NOT drop 'n
drain)
> > trans fluid change in Detroit area?
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Matt,



Won't the torque curve for that engine be less than optimal for the EV?
That is, less low end torque? A six speed might be a good idea.



With that kind of driving he's likely got only a year or two before the AT
blows. Too much work for me to do it over again that soon!



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of gti_matt
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 8:37 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: RE: [ev_update] 2002 engine removal: Need some help and thoughts



--- Stuart MacMillan <macgroup@comcast. <mailto:macgroup%40comcast.net> net>
wrote:

As for other things to replace, do the transmission while you are at it.

I dunno...if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

However...(keep reading...)

What happened to the engine? And, I don't know those designations. Are you

replacing a four cam
201 hp with a two cam 140hp engine?

The AXK is the 24V engine. The 12V is AES, not BDF. BDF looks like a 24V VR6
from a Mk4 GTI.
There wouldn't be anything really to gain by the swap by itself...sounds
like it's just that he
has a handy donor car available. The differences are probably to accomodate
the
way-tilted-forward mounting of the engine in the Eurovan.

However if you have a 6-speed manual transmission bolted to that donor BDF
engine...hmmmm! Are
you up to something sneaky perhaps? :)

Part of the operation is to flush it with some type of cleaning fluid besides transmission fluid.

Joe R

The auxiliary battery in my '02 EVC is dead. The VW manual says that
it's important to chose a replacement with the correct specs, but
neither the VW manual nor the Winnie manual list any specs other than
12 V. The OEM battery is long gone, of course, so I can't check the
specs on the case. I don't want to assume that the previous owner
installed the right battery, and I do assume that my local battery guy
will know nothing about the EVC.

What ARE the specs for the '02 EVC auxiliary battery? I've been
reading about Trojans, Dekas, and Odysseys on this board, but which
models match the VW specs? Or does it matter if I depart from the VW
specs as long as I go with a deep cycle 12 V battery that fits in the
EVC's battery box and has lots of Ah? My dead battery is a Werker
31MDC: 12V, 105 Ah, 775 CCA.

Thanks for your help!

David
'02 EVC

I recently had mine out to do the timing chains. Hope these tips help
and I'm more than happy to answer questions.

Questions:

1. Can I drop the motor out with the van on jack stands?

Yes, but you need to have good high ones. I bought the Goodyear brand
from Sam's because they seem to be well built and I'v used them alot.
And I would recommend having lots of 4x4 blocks so that you can extend
the lift of your jacks. I had to have the front of the van as high as
the ht. of the jack plus the complete ht. of the motor! So, I ended up
building platforms under the jack stands (like house movers do) to get
enough height. BE SAFE!

2. I must/should remove the radiator?

Yes, really easy but messy.

3. Tranny needs to come out with the motor?

Yes, much better to do it this way in my opinion.

4. Do I need to separate the lower ball joints to get the motor out?

You need to remove the axles. Look at the Bentley procedure and pay
complete attention to the special "spline" tools called for. I was
able to get them from a company in Boulder,CO but you can also get
them from SnapOn. You WILL need these tools for several things and
they are uncommon sizes. I wish I would have bought a complete set.
You will also need to replace all of the bolts for the axles per the
Bentley manual. It's not really that hard if you follow procedure.

5. What things should I replace while I'm doing this? (The engine
comes with all new timing chain components, valvetrain, gasket set.)
I'm replacing the WP, thermostat and housing, tie rods.

With that many miles, I would consider putting in new CVs on both left
and right axles. Because you have to take them out anyway. Also I will
second the recommendation to replace the tranny. I have to do this
whole procedure again in the future and I'm not looking forward to it.

6. How many hours should I allocate for this?

It took me 4 days by myself but I was being fairly methodical. Next
time should be faster. ;-)

7. What special tools do I need?

In addition to the splined wrenches that I mentioned above, I welded a
support for the bottom of the motor similar to what the factory uses.
Of course since I didn't have technical drawings it isn't exact but it
does hold the engine tranny combo quite well (and more importantly
stable) while you are lowering them out. I made it so that it would
fit in the top hole of a Goodyear rolling jack (Sam's Club). This is a
decent jack and I could have used 2, but I had access to a couple of
pallet jacks also. Depending on your location and how long you would
need it I might be willing to lend it out.

I did all of the disconnects and then got the jack under the motor
(with the special support) at maximum lift. I then lowered the
motor/tranny and lifted the van after so that I could roll them right
out the front. This is where it would have helped to have another jack!

In addition, take more pictures than I did!!!! Especially the
wiring/hose connections. I marked every connection with different
colors/symbols but when it came time to put everything back in I found
that the routing of the wires was not so self explanatory as it seemed
when I was disconnecting. Rule 1: If you think you have enough
pictures, take some more!

Randal
2000 EVC

You can dislodge junk when dropping the pan and servicing the filter,
too. That's not the point. The question is whether or not flushing
is inherently risky, and the answer is no, it's not.

To fully service the transmission you need to do a fluid exchange to
get all the fluid and you also have to remove the pan to clean it and
service the filter. That's why it's expensive. Doing only one or the
other is a bad idea for a transmission that is way past due its
required service interval. You've got to do both.


--- In ev_update@..., "jeff_westy" <k-and-j.drexel@...> wrote:

True enough... unless removing the cooler dislodges something.

Also, I like the "drop n' drain" because it let's you clean the pan
and magnet as well as change the filter.

Does "suck n' pump" mean you get a filter change and pan wash too?

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@> wrote:

Flushing only adds and drains fluid simultaneously. The fluid moves
in the same direction and under the same pressure whether or not it is
being flushed: it is pumped normally by the internal transmission
fluid pump. There is no plausible reason flushing is going to stir up
anything.

Sometimes -- like 40 years ago -- folks would "back flush" (allegedly)
their cooling systems and maybe some of the crud that had precipitated
out would get pushed around. Maybe.

But, that has nothing to do with a fluid exchange in an automatic
transmission.




--- In ev_update@..., "jeff_westy" <k-and-j.drexel@>

wrote:

You might try:
If they don't do it, they might know who does.

FWIW, there's EV-myth that flushing might cause more harm than good.
The only plausible reason I can think of is that the flushing
dislodges contamination the messes up solenoids or valves... of

course

it's just as easily myth.

--- In ev_update@..., "Sean" <kowalskisean@> wrote:

Anyone know of a good place for a FULL (suck 'n pump NOT drop 'n

drain)

trans fluid change in Detroit area?

True enough... unless removing the cooler dislodges something.

Also, I like the "drop n' drain" because it let's you clean the pan
and magnet as well as change the filter.

Does "suck n' pump" mean you get a filter change and pan wash too?

I am new to this group and having read some recent posts on transmission service I have a
few questions. I have a 97 EVC with 83K on it and to my knowledge it has not had any trans
fluid changes. I should also say I am not a gearhead and trying to understand the lingo as
best as I can..The local VW garage here is suggesting replacing the existing fluid with Amsoil
ATF.

Is this acceptable or should I insist on the factory fluid?

My mechanic also is suggesting looking at the ring and pinion oil which he states is often a
problem in the VR6. Is this so?

Lastly, it seems that a full flush of the system is a bit harder than other systems. My guys
states that it is probable that 85% of the fluid can be flushed. Am I missing something here?

Trying my best to make it out of the "danger zone".

Thanks for your help.

Adam Mentzell

Flushing only adds and drains fluid simultaneously. The fluid moves
in the same direction and under the same pressure whether or not it is
being flushed: it is pumped normally by the internal transmission
fluid pump. There is no plausible reason flushing is going to stir up
anything.

Sometimes -- like 40 years ago -- folks would "back flush" (allegedly)
their cooling systems and maybe some of the crud that had precipitated
out would get pushed around. Maybe.

But, that has nothing to do with a fluid exchange in an automatic
transmission.




--- In ev_update@..., "jeff_westy" <k-and-j.drexel@...> wrote:

You might try:
If they don't do it, they might know who does.

FWIW, there's EV-myth that flushing might cause more harm than good.
The only plausible reason I can think of is that the flushing
dislodges contamination the messes up solenoids or valves... of course
it's just as easily myth.

--- In ev_update@..., "Sean" <kowalskisean@> wrote:

Anyone know of a good place for a FULL (suck 'n pump NOT drop 'n

drain)

trans fluid change in Detroit area?

You can leave the "EV" part out of that sentence.

Joe R

You might try:
If they don't do it, they might know who does.

FWIW, there's EV-myth that flushing might cause more harm than good.
The only plausible reason I can think of is that the flushing
dislodges contamination the messes up solenoids or valves... of course
it's just as easily myth.

--- I have a 2002 middle seat available IN PA ddc_jtc@...

In ev_update@..., "forest flanigan" <creoflan@...> wrote:

I have a middle seat for a 95 EVC . Another person on the list was

looking

at it but she's in NY AND I'm in Northern Ca. I'll check with her --

Write me

off list if your interested

Forest

On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 10:50 AM, alonfw2 <alonfw@...> wrote:

If you have one or know of any please let me know. We just had

a baby

and would like him closer to us when we are out and about.

Alon :)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Adam,

If it were me, I would get the OEM AT fluid, filter, and gasket
(europarts-sd dot com has reasonable prices), plus a sample kit from Blackstone Lab (
_
() ) and prepare to do the change myself or provide it to my mechanic.
As the old fluid is being changed, I would get a sample of the old fluid and
submit it to Blackstone for analysis. A few weeks later, I will have the
sample test results and can see if another immediate ATF change is recommended.
While I am uncertain as to your AT's condition, I suspect you will be OK
and will have avoided ower-reacting.

Good luck.
Bob W.

Hey friend I have an extra one with a small crack in it but it works
ok...Rick in Orlando



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