开云体育

I am using the Continental Cross Contact tires and really like them for long range comfort. However, they are tall and a bit soft going into the corners, but bite down once you are there. I wish they had stiffer sidewalls however.

Try going through a no-touch car wash with the battery cover off and
you'll quickly realize its utility!

Did you try wiggling the ignition switch? Several folks have reported problems with ignition switches wearing out apparently the contacts do not make a good connection. Hope this helps.

Wiggle the ignition key and see if symptoms change. If so, you need a new
ignition switch (< $10 at europarts-sd dot com). What indicates that the
battery is fine? If you have the original battery, it is likely that you will need
a replacement. Normal battery life is about five years.


Bob W.

The items I would desire it cover include:
AC compressor,
Water pump,
automatic transmission.

Some folks thought their warranty covered such things but after reading the
fine print, were let down. Other folks had their warranty company go out of
business. I chose to save some money and take a chance without additional
coverage.

Good luck,
Bob W.
2001 Weekender with 123,000 miles

Pete -

In my '03 EVC, the LP alarm fuse was not installed,
straight from the dealer. Both the knob and fuse
were missing. Winnie changed to an alarm using a 9V
battery, due to the drain on house battery,

If your LP Gas Detector doesn't have a 9V radio
battery connector inside, then it probably needs
the rear fuse. You may need to buy a complete
extractor AGC or 3AG fuse holder, just to get the
knob part. The ones Winnie used on my EVC are not
a common type, so you may have to replace the
holder. You can buy fuses & holders at Radio Shack,
or an electronic supply house.

Note: With other loads on both batteries, they
drop below 11.5V after a few weeks. If not at
least a weekly driver, you need to trickle charge
them. Harbor Freight has a Float Charger [$10 -
now on sale for $5.97, item # 42292]. "My only
connection with HF is as a customer."

Jack_son
=================================================
--In ev_update@..., "Miles Koppersmith" <miles@...> wrote:

Many of us remove that fuse whenever the EVC is not in use for an

extended

period of time to keep the coach battery from being discharged

which seems

to happen after about 4 to 6 weeks of non use. I always replace

the fuse

whenever we are getting ready to use the EVC because the

refrigerator will

not operate on propane with the alarm fuse removed. As I recall it

was just

a standard automotive type fuse and I picked us a small package at

the auto

supply store or Wal-Mart to have spares when we first purchased the

EVC, but

have never had to use any of the replacements yet. I'll check the

fuse size

when I get home tonight and post for you if no one else provides

the

information before then.

Miles Koppersmith
2002 EVC
-----------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: "pfigura2000" <ginkgo@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 9:27 AM
Subject: [ev_update] Magnetek 3200 converter - source for

replacement fuses?

Hello -

It appears that the previous owner of my 95 EVC removed the LP gas
alarm fuse from the power converter (perhaps his solution to the
frequent alarms mentioned in other threads). For better or worse,
we've never worried about it. But now have a newborn who may

wind up

sleeping on the floor of the van from time to time. Suddenly our
safety concerns have magnified, and we'd like to get the LP alarm

up

and running again.

I haven't been able to find replacement fuses. A local RV
sales/repair place person was baffled by the fuses. Does anyone

know

where to find them?

Pete

1) I've minimized the chirping by adjusting the latch pin -- still
chirps, but not as badly.

2) I bought the following "Warranty America Platinum Plan" from




It cost about $2k, but unlike a lot of plans, this one covers "wear
and tear" failures instead of just catastrophic failures. Moreover, it
will cover engine, electrical, AC, etc.

3) I think the swivel base doesn't accept the bracket on the back for
the rear facing seat. Just call Steve and ask for sure.

--- In ev_update@..., "Florian" <fkahlert@...> wrote:

congrats to the van... if you get it:).
reg. your point 1. this is a fairly common thing and there are 3
reasons why it happens,none of them serious:
a) check the black ribbon around the edge of the pop top roof on the
outside. In ours it has a tendency to losen and almost slip off in
the front left corner towards the middle and in the rear right corner.
If its slipping down in the front(you might see a tiny gap btwn the
ribbon and the edge of the roof) you get wind noise.
b) the second reason is that the top wasn't put down carefully. I'd
pop it and then pull it down again, making sure that all fabric parts
are nicely and carefully tucked in.
c) the third cause would be that the top just isn't sitting tight
enough. You can adjust this by adjusting the pop-top latching system.
I believe there is a document in the file section that explains how to
do that.

Can't comment on your 2 and 3 question.
Good luck
Florian 03 MVWK

--- In ev_update@..., "paraportland" <jimlittle@> wrote:

Greetings,

I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a 2003 Weekender with ~53K
miles. Van looks to be in excellent condition overall, both
mechanical and cosmetic. So... two questions:

1) I've noted a slight "chirping" sounds from the latch on the poptop
while test driving it. Would be irritating on long drives. Goes away
if you put one finger on the poptop handle and gently pull down. Is
this common with these vehicles? Any tips for eliminating it?

2) Extended Warranty: I've read ad nauseum here and at other sites
about the potential transmission problems, procedures for changing the
fluid, etc. I'm considering getting an extended warranty, but the
prices I've seen online are not encouraging. Most of the plans that
cover engine/transmission look to be around $2500+ for a 7 yr/100K
coverage. The company Gowesty.com uses doesn't sell direct to
consumers, only to dealers. Does anyone have a reference for a
reasonably priced ($1500 or less) extended warranty that will cover
major stuff? I'm fine with a reasonably high deductible. If I can't
find one for reasonable price, I'll probably just "self insure" and
put some money into savings and hope I don't need it.

3) Can someone with the rear-facing seat/safe combo from

verify for me when they say "doesn't work with rear facing seat in the
weekender" does that mean you lose ability to put in the rearfacing
seat at all, or does it just mean you can't rotate the seat when the
7th passenger seat is installed?

Thanks!

I left the front bat cover off of my '03 EVC for
a couple of weeks. I noticed water runs over the
bat & adjacent modules. It only takes a leaf or
2 seeds to stop up the tiny drain. The water has
to be extra corrosive - most seems to hit battery.

You should be able to fabricate one from 1/8 inch
Plexiglas, although heavy flexible plastic would
be better. I can't take a pix of mine, but I can
give you approximate dimensions if you contact me
direct. Perhaps someone can take a pix of one mtd.
in place for you.

Jack_son
n=========================
--In ev_update@..., "berkeley5960" <newsie@...> wrote:

Maybe slows down corrosion above by redirecting noxious fumes.

I've had to replace one of my wheel sensors in less than a year of
replacement (can't remember which one, but it was a few $$$).

My mechanic thinks it was due to this very problem: I had to have a
battery replaced almost a year ago because it had been leaking

acid. I

was told that the fumes from that leak had likely rendered the

sensor

kaput.

Maybe slows down corrosion above by redirecting noxious fumes.

I've had to replace one of my wheel sensors in less than a year of
replacement (can't remember which one, but it was a few $$$).

My mechanic thinks it was due to this very problem: I had to have a
battery replaced almost a year ago because it had been leaking acid. I
was told that the fumes from that leak had likely rendered the sensor
kaput.

Thanks, Bruce: I'll file this away.

Karen

--- In ev_update@..., Robert Webster <salsared2004@...> wrote:

Karen

Remove the vent cover (3 or 4 screws), hold the vacuum hose (the

tip on my vacuum is the same diameter as the fridge exhaust pipe) up
against the exhaust (inner) pipe, and turn the vacuum on for a short
time period. Remove the hose, tap lightly on the exhaust pipe with a
hammer, and repeat the vacuuming. I got a lot of soot out of mine and
the fridge worked fine afterwards. However, part of my problem was a
discharged coach battery and soot buildup may not have been a real
problem.

Bruce Webster
'97 EVC

berkeley5960 <newsie@...> wrote:
Bruce: How do you vacuum the vent?

Karen







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sorry, just changed the fluid on Sunday so it will be awhile before
pulling that tube out again. M10 seems like a good guess.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

Let me dig out my notes. I had a warranty that I was going to get that
covered powertrain only for about $995. The bumper to bumper ones were too
expensive.



Thanks,
Bryan



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of paraportland
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 2:13 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Weekender Newbie, questions



Greetings,

I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a 2003 Weekender with ~53K
miles. Van looks to be in excellent condition overall, both
mechanical and cosmetic. So... two questions:

1) I've noted a slight "chirping" sounds from the latch on the poptop
while test driving it. Would be irritating on long drives. Goes away
if you put one finger on the poptop handle and gently pull down. Is
this common with these vehicles? Any tips for eliminating it?

2) Extended Warranty: I've read ad nauseum here and at other sites
about the potential transmission problems, procedures for changing the
fluid, etc. I'm considering getting an extended warranty, but the
prices I've seen online are not encouraging. Most of the plans that
cover engine/transmission look to be around $2500+ for a 7 yr/100K
coverage. The company Gowesty.com uses doesn't sell direct to
consumers, only to dealers. Does anyone have a reference for a
reasonably priced ($1500 or less) extended warranty that will cover
major stuff? I'm fine with a reasonably high deductible. If I can't
find one for reasonable price, I'll probably just "self insure" and
put some money into savings and hope I don't need it.

3) Can someone with the rear-facing seat/safe combo from
.
<

mycart.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=4757939&showprevnext=1

verify for me when they say "doesn't work with rear facing seat in the
weekender" does that mean you lose ability to put in the rearfacing
seat at all, or does it just mean you can't rotate the seat when the
7th passenger seat is installed?

Thanks!

congrats to the van... if you get it:).
reg. your point 1. this is a fairly common thing and there are 3
reasons why it happens,none of them serious:
a) check the black ribbon around the edge of the pop top roof on the
outside. In ours it has a tendency to losen and almost slip off in
the front left corner towards the middle and in the rear right corner.
If its slipping down in the front(you might see a tiny gap btwn the
ribbon and the edge of the roof) you get wind noise.
b) the second reason is that the top wasn't put down carefully. I'd
pop it and then pull it down again, making sure that all fabric parts
are nicely and carefully tucked in.
c) the third cause would be that the top just isn't sitting tight
enough. You can adjust this by adjusting the pop-top latching system.
I believe there is a document in the file section that explains how to
do that.

Can't comment on your 2 and 3 question.
Good luck
Florian 03 MVWK

--- In ev_update@..., "paraportland" <jimlittle@...> wrote:

Greetings,

I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a 2003 Weekender with ~53K
miles. Van looks to be in excellent condition overall, both
mechanical and cosmetic. So... two questions:

1) I've noted a slight "chirping" sounds from the latch on the poptop
while test driving it. Would be irritating on long drives. Goes away
if you put one finger on the poptop handle and gently pull down. Is
this common with these vehicles? Any tips for eliminating it?

2) Extended Warranty: I've read ad nauseum here and at other sites
about the potential transmission problems, procedures for changing the
fluid, etc. I'm considering getting an extended warranty, but the
prices I've seen online are not encouraging. Most of the plans that
cover engine/transmission look to be around $2500+ for a 7 yr/100K
coverage. The company Gowesty.com uses doesn't sell direct to
consumers, only to dealers. Does anyone have a reference for a
reasonably priced ($1500 or less) extended warranty that will cover
major stuff? I'm fine with a reasonably high deductible. If I can't
find one for reasonable price, I'll probably just "self insure" and
put some money into savings and hope I don't need it.

3) Can someone with the rear-facing seat/safe combo from

verify for me when they say "doesn't work with rear facing seat in the
weekender" does that mean you lose ability to put in the rearfacing
seat at all, or does it just mean you can't rotate the seat when the
7th passenger seat is installed?

Thanks!

No mime, located in St. Paul MN at Schemelz Countryside VW

Contact Tim Kullmann 612-203-4318 TSKullmann@...

He says it is silver and in perfect condition. I bought my '93 Weekender from Tim, and he called and asked me to post this for him.


Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk

Prevents big terrifying sparks when you accidentally drop a metal tool on it.
Maybe slows down corrosion above by redirecting noxious fumes.

Greetings,

I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a 2003 Weekender with ~53K
miles. Van looks to be in excellent condition overall, both
mechanical and cosmetic. So... two questions:

1) I've noted a slight "chirping" sounds from the latch on the poptop
while test driving it. Would be irritating on long drives. Goes away
if you put one finger on the poptop handle and gently pull down. Is
this common with these vehicles? Any tips for eliminating it?

2) Extended Warranty: I've read ad nauseum here and at other sites
about the potential transmission problems, procedures for changing the
fluid, etc. I'm considering getting an extended warranty, but the
prices I've seen online are not encouraging. Most of the plans that
cover engine/transmission look to be around $2500+ for a 7 yr/100K
coverage. The company Gowesty.com uses doesn't sell direct to
consumers, only to dealers. Does anyone have a reference for a
reasonably priced ($1500 or less) extended warranty that will cover
major stuff? I'm fine with a reasonably high deductible. If I can't
find one for reasonable price, I'll probably just "self insure" and
put some money into savings and hope I don't need it.

3) Can someone with the rear-facing seat/safe combo from

verify for me when they say "doesn't work with rear facing seat in the
weekender" does that mean you lose ability to put in the rearfacing
seat at all, or does it just mean you can't rotate the seat when the
7th passenger seat is installed?

Thanks!

I need to replace the long block. Worse yet, I likely need to do it
in my driveway.
Van is an 2002 with 160kmi put on it in 3.5 years (read, a lot of hwy
miles).


I need as much advice as possible, so don't hold back. I'm reasonably
mechanical, have a Bentley CD, engine hoist and stand, good jack
stands. The engine going in is a fully rebuilt BDF long block. I
have a AXK motor now in the van. I was told the water pump is
different, oil pick up and pan are different, and one tranny mounting
hole is not aligned.



Questions:

1. Can I drop the motor out with the van on jack stands?
2. I must/should remove the radiator?
3. Tranny needs to come out with the motor?
4. Do I need to separate the lower ball joints to get the motor out?
5. What things should I replace while I'm doing this? (The engine
comes with all new timing chain components, valvetrain, gasket set.)
I'm replacing the WP, thermostat and housing, tie rods.
6. How many hours should I allocate for this?
7. What special tools do I need?

Does anyone know the thread size (M10 X 1K or M10 X 1.5K)&nbsp;on the&nbsp;automatic transmission fluid level indicator plug on the&nbsp;late model automatic transmission.&nbsp;&nbsp;I bought an 1/8 NPT weld-on bushing for&nbsp;my transmission temperature sender, but I'm thinking of&nbsp;getting a VDO sender for the level indicator hole, assuming it's M10 X 10.5 K.&nbsp; It will save me some turn around time and money.&nbsp;&nbsp;
&nbsp;
Toby
2003 MV 100,000 &nbsp;&nbsp;

Many of us remove that fuse whenever the EVC is not in use for an extended period of time to keep the coach battery from being discharged which seems to happen after about 4 to 6 weeks of non use. I always replace the fuse whenever we are getting ready to use the EVC because the refrigerator will not operate on propane with the alarm fuse removed. As I recall it was just a standard automotive type fuse and I picked us a small package at the auto supply store or Wal-Mart to have spares when we first purchased the EVC, but have never had to use any of the replacements yet. I'll check the fuse size when I get home tonight and post for you if no one else provides the information before then.

Miles Koppersmith
2002 EVC

This ad posted only here and Eurovan site for first 3 days as I would
love to see someone on this site have this van.
After many sweet, sweet years of use it is time to sell our van. We
are getting older and my wife is experiencing health problems so we
can no longer use our van.
Full camper with all items in good working order, tranny has been
serviced regularly and has never given us any problems. 93,000 miles,
I'm older so I drive carefully. In addition to the normal EVC
equipment we include many extras: A second set of Michelin Agilis
tires mounted on steel rims (Alloys on van); A professionally
installed Yakima rack with a Tule locking cargo box; A custom full van
cover (wolf brand) it's new this year; A four bike carrier Road Gear
brand, which mounts to the 2" rear hitch and folds down for access to
rear; A Clifford security alarm system with 2 remotes that open doors;
An upgraded Panasonic stereo w/four new speakers and a Sony 10 disc
under seat changer; A full front Eurovan brand bra; A "club" wheel
lock; Eurovan brand pull out awning; second set of front carpets. Body
is very clean, no dents or dings only the normal minor paint flaws
from 10 years of road use. Up top mattress has seen little use as we
are kid free and have been for some time. priced at $21,000. Contact
me via this group or dtone@... or call 541-921-3205 doug parker