开云体育

10,000 miles divided by 20mpg = 500 gal of fuel; $4.00 x 500 gal = $2000.
Dang!

Just soldering them together may result in only a temporary repair. On mine,
it appeared that the wires were a bit too short to start with and as a
result each time the driver's door was fully opened, the ground wire was stretched
beyond its length until it separated. In my case, I needed at add an inch of
length to that one ground wire.


Bob W.
2001 Weekender

That seems to be a common problem. Electric driver side window and
both mirrors stopped working on my 2001 EV too. First sporadic, and
then completely. When I pushed back the rubber, I found 3 broken
cables. Someone recommended to just solder them back together - which
I first thought was a ... idea, but it indeed worked well. Go and try
it, it is the quickest and least expensive way to fix it.

-Edgar

I do not have any personal experience but I happened to listen to and interview today with Keith Meldahl author of the book Hard Road West, The book is actually about the gold rush trail to California but I believe it followed the same route as the Oregon trail for at least half of the way. There is a link to the interview here -

Larry
LA, CA

rvdalton <rvdalton@...> wrote: anyone have any good resources or personal experiences? This may be
the first time I weigh the cost of gas and decide to go Prius/motel
rather than EVC/camping. Your thoughts?

--- Sea2river@... wrote:

I noticed that you have recommended doing this mod numerous times. How long ago did you do the

mod and what are the results?

I didn't do it unfortunately because I knew about it only after my 40K change and I'm not due for
another 20K yet and I wasn't going to open the van up again just to do it. (And being that my van
is for sale anyway, I probably won't even get that far).

But the mod is this screw:


Turn that screw in (tighten). Don't loosen...it has a built-in sort of ratcheting mechanism (not
the right word but I can't think of how to describe it otherwise) and is never meant to be
loosened - you will break it if you loosen it. only tighten. it increases the pressure in the
lines and makes the clutches come together firmer and faster. You should notice quicker shifting
between R and D and back again and less slip.

Here's a more complete discussion on the mod (not on a Eurovan but on another VW) if you're
looking for more feedback on those who have done this.

I have a 1993 that one of the dashboard speakers went bad. How do you
remove the grill without damaging the dash or grill?

anyone have any good resources or personal experiences? This may be
the first time I weigh the cost of gas and decide to go Prius/motel
rather than EVC/camping. Your thoughts?

Just reread Dave's original description--the Bentley matches the
location of F95/G110 as Dave has described.

--- In ev_update@..., "Carl Henderson" <chendermi@...> wrote:

F95 (after-run coolant pump thermal switch). The Bentley doesn't show
a location for this device.

On models WITH Climatronic (i.e., GLS and non-Weekender MV's), F95 is
shown combined with G110 (A/C engine coolant temperature sensor) into
a 4-pin device. G110 is shown in a location "behind intake manifold,
center, in coolant hose above exhaust manifold heat shield". But
maybe this device is really mounted in the thermostat housing? And
maybe the 4-pin device is installed in vehicles which aren't outfitted
Climatronic, even though one half of the device isn't actually used?
The Bentley CD isn't very helpful here.

In a message dated 5/25/2008 12:33:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
davebo1896@ writes:

There is a 4-pin blue sensor in a hose near the top of the

block that

is for the after-run pumps.

The Bentley wiring diagrams for a 2003 show the following devices:

G2 (sensor for temp. gauge) and G62 (sensor for ECU) combined in a
4-pin device and mounted in the thermostat housing. This is the
upgraded green D-shaped device (originally black).

F163 (A/C cutout thermal switch) and F165 (3rd speed coolant fan
control thermal switch) combined in a 4-pin device and mounted in the
thermostat housing. This is the green square device.

F95 (after-run coolant pump thermal switch). The Bentley doesn't show
a location for this device.

That's what I've got in my '99, too (although in a slightly different
configuration). 5 devices (G2, G62, F163, F165, F95).

On models WITH Climatronic (i.e., GLS and non-Weekender MV's), F95 is
shown combined with G110 (A/C engine coolant temperature sensor) into
a 4-pin device.

OK, then there's the new 6th device not present in earlier models:
the G110 ((A/C engine coolant temperature sensor).


So, the ECU gets one temp sender (G62) and Climatronic gets another
(G110).


Thanks for clearing that up.








--- In ev_update@..., "Carl Henderson" <chendermi@...> wrote:

Dave,

The Bentley wiring diagrams for a 2003 show the following devices:

G2 (sensor for temp. gauge) and G62 (sensor for ECU) combined in a
4-pin device and mounted in the thermostat housing. This is the
upgraded green D-shaped device (originally black).

F163 (A/C cutout thermal switch) and F165 (3rd speed coolant fan
control thermal switch) combined in a 4-pin device and mounted in the
thermostat housing. This is the green square device.

F95 (after-run coolant pump thermal switch). The Bentley doesn't show
a location for this device.

On models WITH Climatronic (i.e., GLS and non-Weekender MV's), F95 is
shown combined with G110 (A/C engine coolant temperature sensor) into
a 4-pin device. G110 is shown in a location "behind intake manifold,
center, in coolant hose above exhaust manifold heat shield". But
maybe this device is really mounted in the thermostat housing? And
maybe the 4-pin device is installed in vehicles which aren't outfitted
Climatronic, even though one half of the device isn't actually used?
The Bentley CD isn't very helpful here.

And finally, there's FC (coolant fan control), which is a 3-pin device
shown mounted near or in the radiator and not really part of this
listing of devices in the thermostat housing, but I thought I'd list
it since it is related to coolant temperatures.

I have a 2003 Weekender. Next time I pull the belly pan, I'll have a
look at the thermostat housing to see what's there. I did replace the
black with a green D-shaped device several years ago as a preventative
measure.

Carl


--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@> wrote:

There is something wrong with this "good info" because it describes
all 3 sensors as 4-pin sensors, which would mean 12 pins total, and
that would mean 6 devices.

But, as far as I can tell (I have a '99 12 valve, and a paper Bentley,
but there has been a discussion on vortex -- complete with wiring
diagrams posted for the 24 valve motor -- and what I've seen is
consistent with mine) there are just 5 devices:

ECU
gage
fan
afterrun pump
AC cutout

Various models -- the 5 cylinder, the 12 valve, the 24 valve -- have
various locations and combinations for all the sensors involved (for
example on some models the ECU and gage sensors are combined in a
4-pin device while on other models the ECU sensor is a 2-pin
device) but all models use only those 5 devices, which would mean only
10 total pins.

But, Dave's information shows 3 devices with 4 pins each which is 12
pins which means 6 devices.

Something is not adding up. Does the 24 valve motor have a 6th
device? If so, what is it?



--- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@ wrote:

Good info.

And when replacing the sensor, if you replace the cap on the

coolant

reservoir (after relieving any residual pressure), the amount of

coolant loss will

be less that a cup.

Bob W.


In a message dated 5/25/2008 12:33:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
davebo1896@ writes:

And the new green d-shaped (oval) sensor did the trick.

The dash gauge is now working.

Another note, I think the AC was not working while this sensor was
malfunctioning. It seems to be working now. I'm not sure if this is
related.

So to sum up ...

There are two sensors under the engine in the thermostat housing.
You'll have to drop the belly pan to get to these, they are on the
driver's side.

The 4-pin d-shaped (oval) is for the dash gauge and the fuel
injection. The new sensor is green, the original one was black. the
black ones are a known problem.

The 4-pin square sensor next to the d-shaped sensor is for the

fans.

There is a 4-pin blue sensor in a hose near the top of the

block that

is for the after-run pumps.

Each sensor is held in with a c-clip. Each sensor has a rubber

o-ring.

It is possible to swap out the sensors without draining the coolant
system, but you need to be quick with the lower ones (make sure the
coolant is cold, safety goggles and a closed mouth are advised)

The o-ring does not always come out when you pull the sensor. Make
sure it is accounted for before replacing the c-clip. Also be sure
the sensor is under the c-clip not over it, or it will pop out and
drain all your coolant.

Sensors and o-rings are available from Steve at
_ ()

Thanks All !!

Dave




****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking

with

Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.

()

Dave,

The Bentley wiring diagrams for a 2003 show the following devices:

G2 (sensor for temp. gauge) and G62 (sensor for ECU) combined in a
4-pin device and mounted in the thermostat housing. This is the
upgraded green D-shaped device (originally black).

F163 (A/C cutout thermal switch) and F165 (3rd speed coolant fan
control thermal switch) combined in a 4-pin device and mounted in the
thermostat housing. This is the green square device.

F95 (after-run coolant pump thermal switch). The Bentley doesn't show
a location for this device.

On models WITH Climatronic (i.e., GLS and non-Weekender MV's), F95 is
shown combined with G110 (A/C engine coolant temperature sensor) into
a 4-pin device. G110 is shown in a location "behind intake manifold,
center, in coolant hose above exhaust manifold heat shield". But
maybe this device is really mounted in the thermostat housing? And
maybe the 4-pin device is installed in vehicles which aren't outfitted
Climatronic, even though one half of the device isn't actually used?
The Bentley CD isn't very helpful here.

And finally, there's FC (coolant fan control), which is a 3-pin device
shown mounted near or in the radiator and not really part of this
listing of devices in the thermostat housing, but I thought I'd list
it since it is related to coolant temperatures.

I have a 2003 Weekender. Next time I pull the belly pan, I'll have a
look at the thermostat housing to see what's there. I did replace the
black with a green D-shaped device several years ago as a preventative
measure.

Carl


--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:

There is something wrong with this "good info" because it describes
all 3 sensors as 4-pin sensors, which would mean 12 pins total, and
that would mean 6 devices.

But, as far as I can tell (I have a '99 12 valve, and a paper Bentley,
but there has been a discussion on vortex -- complete with wiring
diagrams posted for the 24 valve motor -- and what I've seen is
consistent with mine) there are just 5 devices:

ECU
gage
fan
afterrun pump
AC cutout

Various models -- the 5 cylinder, the 12 valve, the 24 valve -- have
various locations and combinations for all the sensors involved (for
example on some models the ECU and gage sensors are combined in a
4-pin device while on other models the ECU sensor is a 2-pin
device) but all models use only those 5 devices, which would mean only
10 total pins.

But, Dave's information shows 3 devices with 4 pins each which is 12
pins which means 6 devices.

Something is not adding up. Does the 24 valve motor have a 6th
device? If so, what is it?



--- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@ wrote:

Good info.

And when replacing the sensor, if you replace the cap on the coolant
reservoir (after relieving any residual pressure), the amount of

coolant loss will

be less that a cup.

Bob W.


In a message dated 5/25/2008 12:33:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
davebo1896@ writes:

And the new green d-shaped (oval) sensor did the trick.

The dash gauge is now working.

Another note, I think the AC was not working while this sensor was
malfunctioning. It seems to be working now. I'm not sure if this is
related.

So to sum up ...

There are two sensors under the engine in the thermostat housing.
You'll have to drop the belly pan to get to these, they are on the
driver's side.

The 4-pin d-shaped (oval) is for the dash gauge and the fuel
injection. The new sensor is green, the original one was black. the
black ones are a known problem.

The 4-pin square sensor next to the d-shaped sensor is for the fans.

There is a 4-pin blue sensor in a hose near the top of the block that
is for the after-run pumps.

Each sensor is held in with a c-clip. Each sensor has a rubber

o-ring.

It is possible to swap out the sensors without draining the coolant
system, but you need to be quick with the lower ones (make sure the
coolant is cold, safety goggles and a closed mouth are advised)

The o-ring does not always come out when you pull the sensor. Make
sure it is accounted for before replacing the c-clip. Also be sure
the sensor is under the c-clip not over it, or it will pop out and
drain all your coolant.

Sensors and o-rings are available from Steve at
_ ()

Thanks All !!

Dave




****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking

with

Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.

()

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bruce: How do you vacuum the vent?

Karen

-Bruce- I did the vent vacuum trick...thanks for bringing it up. This
fridge has always worked super on gas and I just want to keep it that
way.
When I pull it out, I'll be able to look closely at the burner box
and scope out this visual inspection issue.

Pete

-- In ev_update@..., Robert Webster <salsared2004@...>
wrote:

Forest, Pete, et. al.

I bent down on the floor of my '97 EVC when it was relatively

dark outside and was able to see the flame by looking through the
left end of the grill on the botom of the fridge. Pete...have you
tried the vent vacuum trick?

Bruce Webster
'97 EVC

forest flanigan <creoflan@...> wrote:
Hi Pete-
I know folks on here have talked about a viewing window but I don't

seem to

be able to see anything either.

Forest

On Mon, May 26, 2008 at 12:14 PM, Pete Peterson <tds3pete@...>

wrote:

Forest, thanks for timely post. I just happened to be fooling

around

with mine yesterday and considered taking it out. It has been

lighting

a little slow lately, and I wanted to see what was involved. I

decided

if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Now that I know how easy it is, I will probably pull it next time.

One question...the manual talks about viewing the flame by looking
under the installed unit in place. I can see the burner box fine,

but

the viewing port appears to be on the side. Do folks use a mirror

to

view the flame in place or what?

Pete

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Forest, Pete, et. al.

I bent down on the floor of my '97 EVC when it was relatively dark outside and was able to see the flame by looking through the left end of the grill on the botom of the fridge. Pete...have you tried the vent vacuum trick?

Bruce Webster
'97 EVC

forest flanigan <creoflan@...> wrote:
Hi Pete-
I know folks on here have talked about a viewing window but I don't seem to
be able to see anything either.

Forest

The bit of fluid that doesn't
come out in a change is likely to be uber-dirt-concentrate

The bit of fluid? LOL

Well over a third of the fluid won't drain out the pan. Have the
transmission flushed, period.

It's not the dirt, it's the FLUID. The fluid has worn out. Viscosity
break down. Thermal damage.

Hasn't this been discussed a thousand times? Change the fluid. ALL
of it.


--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

--- Ted Maloney <freecycle@...> wrote:

Is this a death sentence? I shift into Reverse to back out of the
driveway and there is a 2-5 second hesitation before it slips into
gear. I then shift into Drive and everything is fine. There are no
other symptoms....it shifts fine all day as we drive. Just lately
we're getting that delay when shifting into reverse.

I have 102k miles and never changed the ATF....I know, I know it's my
own fault, but I was told it didn't need changing. It was only over
the past few months that I learned from this group that I should have
changed it! I had been told otherwise previously! So, don't tell
me "I told you so!"

Although the obvious answer now is change it because you're more

than 2x overdue and you're having

trouble.

Make sure the pan is clean and also do the trans pressure screw mod

as well while you're in there.

Being that you went to over 100K with the original fluid, you might

even want to do two fluid

changes (do once, drive around for a while, maybe until next

weekend, then change it again...or at

least do the next one after about 10K miles to get all caught up.

The bit of fluid that doesn't

come out in a change is likely to be uber-dirt-concentrate.

I don't think I can do this ATF change myself so I was planning on
taking it to AAMCO or Lee Myles and asking for them to flush and change
the fluid. I remember talk of a screw that can be adjusted, but I
forget the details. Can I trust Lee Myles with this king of power?

T
E
D

Hi Pete-
I know folks on here have talked about a viewing window but I don't seem to
be able to see anything either.

Forest

--- Ted Maloney <freecycle@...> wrote:

Is this a death sentence? I shift into Reverse to back out of the
driveway and there is a 2-5 second hesitation before it slips into
gear. I then shift into Drive and everything is fine. There are no
other symptoms....it shifts fine all day as we drive. Just lately
we're getting that delay when shifting into reverse.

I have 102k miles and never changed the ATF....I know, I know it's my
own fault, but I was told it didn't need changing. It was only over
the past few months that I learned from this group that I should have
changed it! I had been told otherwise previously! So, don't tell
me "I told you so!"

Although the obvious answer now is change it because you're more than 2x overdue and you're having
trouble.

Make sure the pan is clean and also do the trans pressure screw mod as well while you're in there.
Being that you went to over 100K with the original fluid, you might even want to do two fluid
changes (do once, drive around for a while, maybe until next weekend, then change it again...or at
least do the next one after about 10K miles to get all caught up. The bit of fluid that doesn't
come out in a change is likely to be uber-dirt-concentrate.

TED,
My 2002 MV EV transmission failed at 70K miles. It did hesitate and
slip a bit especially going up hills. It never made much noise
before going out, and was never difficult to put into gear. I think
that reverse was tough thou sometimes.

Catch now if you can. Apparently mine failed because the
tranmission fluid got burnt at some point. I was really pissed
especially since it was just a few thousand miles out of warranty.
It cost closet to $10K to get replaced and VW only gave me something
like $600 assistance.

Philip




--- In ev_update@..., "Ted Maloney" <freecycle@...>
wrote:

Greetings friends,

If you have already experienced a failed transmission on your
Eurovan, what were the first few signs of failure?

Hesitating once in gear....like when you accelerate from a red

light?

The transmission won't go into gear?

It slips a little here and there as you are going down the road
(feeling bad)?

When you first get into the car and put it in Drive (or Reverse) it
won't catch for a few seconds?


Thanks for you input. I just want to know what to watch out for!

THANKS,

T
E
D

I was running some errands yesterday, my MV was starting fine, no
hesitation whatsoever with when starting. I make a quick stop, get
back in to leave and the car will not start. Plenty of power in the
system, just nothing getting to the starter. It's as if the starter
just got unplugged or something. I looked around for a blown fuse but
found none.

What could it be? Anyone had a similar problem?

Thanks,
Philip

Forest, thanks for timely post. I just happened to be fooling around
with mine yesterday and considered taking it out. It has been lighting
a little slow lately, and I wanted to see what was involved. I decided
if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Now that I know how easy it is, I will probably pull it next time.

One question...the manual talks about viewing the flame by looking
under the installed unit in place. I can see the burner box fine, but
the viewing port appears to be on the side. Do folks use a mirror to
view the flame in place or what?

Pete