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Re: Furnace Tips?
On my 95, there was several l.e.d. indicator lights on the circuit
board and a sticker to explain their function. That might be of help. If you can't find the sticker: green=start cycle red=valve open slow green=bad electrode fast greeen= timed out I ended up cutting a hole in the forward side of the shroud and copying the sticker and pasting it where I could read it with the furnace intstalled. Now with a mirror I can troubleshoot it while it is installed (after removing the gray plastic interior panel). The Eurovan service training manual from Winnebago (I bought mine from Go Westy), has 18 pages on the furnace.....troubleshooting, wiring diagram, etc. You might want to pick one up. It covers everything Winnebago added to the van, in detail for servicing. Pete 95 EVC |
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Furnace Tips?
adammentzell
I have 1997 EVC with a furnace that will not light. I have pulled it out and found that it is
getting propane, not clogged and the fan is running like a top. I follow the startup procedures and get no heat. Gowesty advised trying to put my hand over the intake on the outside while starting it. No luck. Any tips? I heard that some people have found the thermostat to be the problem??? Thanks, Adam |
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Re: Dash temperature gauge
dave_king_ev
There is something wrong with this "good info" because it describes
all 3 sensors as 4-pin sensors, which would mean 12 pins total, and that would mean 6 devices. But, as far as I can tell (I have a '99 12 valve, and a paper Bentley, but there has been a discussion on vortex -- complete with wiring diagrams posted for the 24 valve motor -- and what I've seen is consistent with mine) there are just 5 devices: ECU gage fan afterrun pump AC cutout Various models -- the 5 cylinder, the 12 valve, the 24 valve -- have various locations and combinations for all the sensors involved (for example on some models the ECU and gage sensors are combined in a 4-pin device while on other models the ECU sensor is a 2-pin device) but all models use only those 5 devices, which would mean only 10 total pins. But, Dave's information shows 3 devices with 4 pins each which is 12 pins which means 6 devices. Something is not adding up. Does the 24 valve motor have a 6th device? If so, what is it? --- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@... wrote: coolant loss will be less that a cup.with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. |
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Re: Dash temperature gauge
Good info.
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And when replacing the sensor, if you replace the cap on the coolant reservoir (after relieving any residual pressure), the amount of coolant loss will be less that a cup. Bob W. In a message dated 5/25/2008 12:33:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
davebo1896@... writes: And the new green d-shaped (oval) sensor did the trick. The dash gauge is now working. Another note, I think the AC was not working while this sensor was malfunctioning. It seems to be working now. I'm not sure if this is related. So to sum up ... There are two sensors under the engine in the thermostat housing. You'll have to drop the belly pan to get to these, they are on the driver's side. The 4-pin d-shaped (oval) is for the dash gauge and the fuel injection. The new sensor is green, the original one was black. the black ones are a known problem. The 4-pin square sensor next to the d-shaped sensor is for the fans. There is a 4-pin blue sensor in a hose near the top of the block that is for the after-run pumps. Each sensor is held in with a c-clip. Each sensor has a rubber o-ring. It is possible to swap out the sensors without draining the coolant system, but you need to be quick with the lower ones (make sure the coolant is cold, safety goggles and a closed mouth are advised) The o-ring does not always come out when you pull the sensor. Make sure it is accounted for before replacing the c-clip. Also be sure the sensor is under the c-clip not over it, or it will pop out and drain all your coolant. Sensors and o-rings are available from Steve at _ () Thanks All !! Dave ****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. () |
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Re: 2000 camper winnebago has anyone removed the closet and rear area
Jim White
I know that's been done quite a few times because there are a number of fairly late model (2001?) EVCs running around in just that condition. Some Seattle-based coffee company turned EVCs into mobile cafes by ripping out the rear closet & storage compartments (keeping the appliances and water systems as you say) and installing an espresso machine in their place.
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I saw one being sold after they were done with it and the coffee machine was removed, but don't recall any details apart from I knew I didn't want to deal with the project involved in reconstruction! Also while I was getting my furnace repaired I got to see what Wolfie (97 EVC) looks like with the plastic panel removed because you have to do that in order to access it. It was a bit of a jolt to see that since I sleep head-to-the-rear the cast iron burner box is just inches away. I suppose it could be considered a good thing because that way if something catches fire I'll notice right away... ;-) Jim & Wolfie resting at home after three weeks on the road. jaychee wrote: I have owed 4 volks campers. in the previous I removed the closet area leaving only the stove, sink, refrigerator component to enable a wider bed. in this model I am afraid to do so because of what I might disturb and because I will have to cut metal and wood to do so. has anyone already tried this? I want to keep the external shower hose of course. |
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Re: Dash temperature gauge
dave_king_ev
Something is wrong with Dave's summary. A 4-wire sensor for the
after-run pump? Wny? All it needs is an on/off switch, which would mean two-wire, not four. Dave, are you looking at wiring diagrams or are you relying on catalog descriptions of the devices? --- In ev_update@..., "davebo1896" <davebo1896@...> wrote: fans. "fuel<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, injection and cooling fans" but that's wrong. |
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Re: Dash temperature gauge
davebo1896
And the new green d-shaped (oval) sensor did the trick.
The dash gauge is now working. Another note, I think the AC was not working while this sensor was malfunctioning. It seems to be working now. I'm not sure if this is related. So to sum up ... There are two sensors under the engine in the thermostat housing. You'll have to drop the belly pan to get to these, they are on the driver's side. The 4-pin d-shaped (oval) is for the dash gauge and the fuel injection. The new sensor is green, the original one was black. the black ones are a known problem. The 4-pin square sensor next to the d-shaped sensor is for the fans. There is a 4-pin blue sensor in a hose near the top of the block that is for the after-run pumps. Each sensor is held in with a c-clip. Each sensor has a rubber o-ring. It is possible to swap out the sensors without draining the coolant system, but you need to be quick with the lower ones (make sure the coolant is cold, safety goggles and a closed mouth are advised) The o-ring does not always come out when you pull the sensor. Make sure it is accounted for before replacing the c-clip. Also be sure the sensor is under the c-clip not over it, or it will pop out and drain all your coolant. Sensors and o-rings are available from Steve at Thanks All !! Dave --- In ev_update@..., Steve Schock <europarts@...> wrote: function was mislabeled on the webstore.<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "Carl Henderson" <chendermi@> wrote:There was a discussion about this on vortex recently. |
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Re: Fuel gauge
If Mike was still here he would tell you that you are wrong, and to
expect further problems in the future. I on the other hand, with real world experience, would say that it is true that the solder joints on the board can crack and separate, and that you need to go over all the pins if possible, at least heat them to see if the solder "drops through" to the other side. If so, add a little solder to firm them up. Of course, it can't hurt to tin the ends of the VR like Mike has espoused. gomi_ --- In ev_update@..., "Pete Peterson" <tds3pete@...> wrote: my cluster last summer. I could reach behind the board and move themulti- pin connector and things would start working. I replaced the VR andthen tested the old VR and found it to be fine.and testing until I got things right, but things have now worked greatfor a year. |
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Re: Cracked Exhaust Manifold-no part availability!
gti_matt
--- foosnews <foosnews@...> wrote:
Thanks Ken. I'll check with the mechanic on the particular manifold in question. By theit's been my experience that fluid they usually will let you bring in since people often have preferences w/fluids. parts generally no, however... 1. I have had mechanics, even a VW dealer, let me do that if it was something I was truly stuck with...like doing a brake job but couldn't get the rotors off...if they see that I tried and I was in a bind they were nice enough to finish off the job for me w/o giving me grief about the parts. 2. If they do let you bring your own parts, they probably will not honor a warranty regarding the part (that is, usually if it's their parts, you get 12 months/12K miles usually on the part but if you bring your own, no warranty). |
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Re: any tips for replacing '93 starter?
That may have been it. I deburred the rim of the bushing with a large screwdriver and now it's in and the van is running.
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Thanks for the help! Steve 636-337-7700 888-797-5994 - order desk On May 24, 2008, at 7:41 PM, dave_king_ev wrote:
--- In ev_update@..., "Steve@..." <steve@...> wrote: |
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Re: Power Converter tripping
jack_son_73
Elden -
Glad you corrected the problem. I used Red & Black electrical tape to recode my front & rear exposed DC cables. When I was into my converter & rear breaker panel, I did the same. Of course, this was done after the first time I hooked up an external charger wrong to the rear bat - even knowing of the wiring code conflict. I also tagged the wires [+] & [-], in case Winnie ever sees my tape. My Ham Radio equipment hooked to front & rear bats are all 'normal' Black = Ground. Crossed polarity on electronic gear isn't fun. I don't want to get in the habit of connecting Red to Black. Jack_son '03 EVC '01 Passat ================================================= --In ev_update@..., "eapling" <EApling@...> wrote: but staycodingYa'know,I was sitting on the porch and I thought. "That coloron.. ????? thanks,Elden is screwy. I better make sure I didn't connect that battery wrong." |
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Re: any tips for replacing '93 starter?
dave_king_ev
--- In ev_update@..., "Steve@..." <steve@...> wrote:
I've replaced that bushing -- it's a sintered metal designed to hold lubricant and it's brittle -- and it can be difficult to R&R. Are you sure the new bushing is in all right? Any little chip will prevent the starter shaft from seating fully. |
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any tips for replacing '93 starter?
I spent about 3 hours removing and attempting to reinstall a rebuilt start on my '93 automatic.
Removal wasn't difficult, but I'm having trouble getting the rebuilt in place. I replaced the bushing, but can't seem to line up the replacement starter. Any tips would be appreciated. Steve 636-337-7700 888-797-5994 - order desk |
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Re: Power Converter tripping
--- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@...> wrote:
battery,the staypower converter clicks every 10 seconds and the lights flick but Ya'know,I was sitting on the porch and I thought. "That color codingon.. ????? thanks,Elden is screwy. I better make sure I didn't connect that battery wrong." Sure enough,I had. Problem solved. Thanks. I also took a Sharpie and wrote the color code on the battery box cover so it won't happen again. Elden |
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Re: VAGCOM on Seattle's Craig's list--THIS IS NOT LEGIT!
Thanks to all that replied.
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When I saw the original post, I assumed it was an owner of a legitimate copy, merely selling his used version. Guess the price was too good to be true. Best, JW -------------- Original message --------------
From: "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@...> Folks, this is a hacked & pirated system. Legitimate USB Vag-Com "dongles" have internal coded chips that couple to the software when it is downloaded to any computer from the Ross-Tech web site and plugged into the test vehicle. There is no software "key" to install. This guy has hacked a "key" for one version of the software, and it would most likely be an old version. Buy at your own risk, knowing you are supporting an illegal operator. Better yet, forget it and buy a legitimate dongle from Ross-Tech (or a private party selling a real one that doesn't need a "key" or software disk) so they can stay in business. Stuart Owner of a legitimate Vag-Com dongle. _____ From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf Of Pete Peterson Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 10:37 PM To: ev_update@... Subject: [ev_update] Re: VAGCOM on Seattle's Craig's list This guy has been selling this on Craigslist since last year. His name is Mike and he's a nice guy, with a fair amount of VW experience. I met him, had him install it on my laptop and run a test on my 95 EVC on the spot to make sure it worked. The engine test worked fine. I'm glad he did the install for me because there were a couple of twists I would have missed. I also bought the 2x2 cable from him which is needed on the 95. I have since tried to run it once and had issues, but he gave me his number and I just haven't got around to calling him about it. Judging from meeting him and his willingness to give me his number (which is still the same), I expect he will walk me through my issue. This is my experience for what it's worth. Pete |
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Re: Power Converter tripping
jack_son_73
Elden-
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Are you aware of the Winnie house wiring code used on ALL of their added 12V DC EVC circuits? Black = HOT = Plus. Green = Negative or Ground. This as been mentioned here, but keeps getting people in trouble. I assume you are using the converter/charger. There's a small 30A circuit breaker buried inside it. It is identical to the one Winnie mounted between front bat & the solenoid/relay on the firewall of my '03 EVC. The automatic reset breaker could be overloading, or could be defective. It is difficult to get access to, requiring removal of the plastic panel below the closet. I suggest checking wiring adjacent to the new rear bat first. Do you have a test meter? How do the galley lights work on just the battery without AC or alternator charging? Regards, Jack_son ================================================= --In ev_update@..., "eapling" <EApling@...> wrote:
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Re: VAGCOM on Seattle's Craig's list
Stuart MacMillan
Jack,
You don't need to be on line to use the Vag-Com, only to download the software and install it on your computer. It doesn't come with a disk. If you do have wi-fi, then you can look up lots of other useful diagnostic info on their site too. Stuart _____ From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf Of jack_son_73 Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 11:27 AM To: ev_update@... Subject: [ev_update] Re: VAGCOM on Seattle's Craig's list Steve - Thanks for your input. I didn't know I was helping to support a pirated operation. Unfortunately, I've learned more about Vag Coms in the past 2 days than the past 2 years +. Personally, I'd pay 2 X price for a system that didn't require hunting for a WiFi AP for my PC, & didn't care which PC I used, just to read a code when I'm not in my driveway. If at home, I could take the other car, or drive 3 miles to Auto-Zone. Regards, Jack_son =========================5======================== --In ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com, "Steve@..." <steve@.> wrote: download a free version of Vagcom on their website that had limiteddoes not require a dongle. I have it on the computer at the office, soI don't recall what version it is. It works great on my 1993Weekender and 1999 GLS. It will not work on newer VW models.this software or not. My guess is this guy on Craig's list is buyingcheap cables and copying the Vag-Com software. |
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Re: VAGCOM on Seattle's Craig's list
jack_son_73
Steve -
Thanks for your input. I didn't know I was helping to support a pirated operation. Unfortunately, I've learned more about Vag Coms in the past 2 days than the past 2 years +. Personally, I'd pay 2 X price for a system that didn't require hunting for a WiFi AP for my PC, & didn't care which PC I used, just to read a code when I'm not in my driveway. If at home, I could take the other car, or drive 3 miles to Auto-Zone. Regards, Jack_son =========================5======================== --In ev_update@..., "Steve@..." <steve@.> wrote: download a free version of Vagcom on their website that had limiteddoes not require a dongle. I have it on the computer at the office, soI don't recall what version it is. It works great on my 1993Weekender and 1999 GLS. It will not work on newer VW models.this software or not. My guess is this guy on Craig's list is buyingcheap cables and copying the Vag-Com software. |
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