Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- Eurovanupdate
- Messages
Search
|
Re: Dead Van Walking
Ted Maloney
I don't think I can do this ATF change myself so I was planning on
taking it to AAMCO or Lee Myles and asking for them to flush and change the fluid. I remember talk of a screw that can be adjusted, but I forget the details. Can I trust Lee Myles with this king of power? T E D |
|
Re: removing refrigerator
forest flanigan
Hi Pete-
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I know folks on here have talked about a viewing window but I don't seem to be able to see anything either. Forest On Mon, May 26, 2008 at 12:14 PM, Pete Peterson <tds3pete@...> wrote:
Forest, thanks for timely post. I just happened to be fooling around |
|
Re: Dead Van Walking
gti_matt
--- Ted Maloney <freecycle@...> wrote:
Is this a death sentence? I shift into Reverse to back out of theAlthough the obvious answer now is change it because you're more than 2x overdue and you're having trouble. Make sure the pan is clean and also do the trans pressure screw mod as well while you're in there. Being that you went to over 100K with the original fluid, you might even want to do two fluid changes (do once, drive around for a while, maybe until next weekend, then change it again...or at least do the next one after about 10K miles to get all caught up. The bit of fluid that doesn't come out in a change is likely to be uber-dirt-concentrate. |
|
Re: Has your transmission failed?
TED,
My 2002 MV EV transmission failed at 70K miles. It did hesitate and slip a bit especially going up hills. It never made much noise before going out, and was never difficult to put into gear. I think that reverse was tough thou sometimes. Catch now if you can. Apparently mine failed because the tranmission fluid got burnt at some point. I was really pissed especially since it was just a few thousand miles out of warranty. It cost closet to $10K to get replaced and VW only gave me something like $600 assistance. Philip --- In ev_update@..., "Ted Maloney" <freecycle@...> wrote: light?
|
|
2002 EV MV Wont Start
I was running some errands yesterday, my MV was starting fine, no
hesitation whatsoever with when starting. I make a quick stop, get back in to leave and the car will not start. Plenty of power in the system, just nothing getting to the starter. It's as if the starter just got unplugged or something. I looked around for a blown fuse but found none. What could it be? Anyone had a similar problem? Thanks, Philip |
|
Re: removing refrigerator
Forest, thanks for timely post. I just happened to be fooling around
with mine yesterday and considered taking it out. It has been lighting a little slow lately, and I wanted to see what was involved. I decided if it ain't broke don't fix it. Now that I know how easy it is, I will probably pull it next time. One question...the manual talks about viewing the flame by looking under the installed unit in place. I can see the burner box fine, but the viewing port appears to be on the side. Do folks use a mirror to view the flame in place or what? Pete |
|
Re: Dead Van Walking
I noticed that you have recommended doing this mod numerous times. How long
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
ago did you do the mod and what are the results? Bob W. In a message dated 5/26/2008 5:22:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gti_matt@... writes: also do the trans pressure screw mod as well while you're in there. ****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. () |
|
Re: removing refrigerator
forest flanigan
You don't need to remove the panel--there are a couple of screws under the
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
fridge and two (I think) on each side. Remove the screws outside at the vent and you should be able to slide it out. As soon as you get it out a couple of inches the propane line -12 volt and 110 connections need to be disconnected. Make sure that the gas is tuned off before you do anything. Take apart the burner box and check the thermocoupler and makesure the burner is clean and all of the slots are open--if there is carbon buildup use soap and water to clean it out --brush the inside of the flue out and you should be good to go. Take your time and it will only take a few hours . Good Luck Forest 95 EVC On Mon, May 26, 2008 at 9:38 AM, felixproulx <felixproulx@...> wrote:
Hi everyone, |
|
removing refrigerator
felixproulx
Hi everyone,
I've a 95 EVC and would like to take out the refrigerator to check it out (it doesn't work now) Is it hard to take it out, and then, to put it back in place? How to I disconnect the refrigerator exhaust ? Also, do I have to remove the control panel above the refrigerator ? What else should I know ? Thanks to all. Felix A. |
|
Re: Dead Van Walking
Carl Henderson
Could be you only have a problem when the fluid is still cold. It
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
might be dirty (likely with 102K) or the level might be a little low. I would just do the normal drop and drain ATF replacement, along with a new filter, and see if behavior changes. I don't think you need to go into panic mode yet! Carl --- In ev_update@..., "Ted Maloney" <freecycle@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Furnace Tips?
If the thermostat is bad, you can verify by jumpering the 2 wires
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
together which will call for heat ll the time. If the furnace burns OK it's the thermostat. It would be interesting to modify the furnace so the fan runs all the time (perhaps at reduced voltage to conserve battery and generate less noise). That way it wouldn't wake up light sleepers as it cycles on and off. Would probably have to verify that such a modification was OK with the furnace people. Rob --- In ev_update@..., "Pete Peterson" <tds3pete@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Remote mirrors
Ted Maloney
David,
I'm no expert, but when my window stopped working and someone here told me that a wire was broken between the door and the main part of the car, I thought that they were grasping at straws, but they were right. Peel back the rubber boot in which the wires run between the car and the door. Feel along the wrapped wires and maybe you will feel a break...if not, unwrap the wires and look. Good luck, Ted |
|
Dead Van Walking
Ted Maloney
Hello Gang,
Is this a death sentence? I shift into Reverse to back out of the driveway and there is a 2-5 second hesitation before it slips into gear. I then shift into Drive and everything is fine. There are no other symptoms....it shifts fine all day as we drive. Just lately we're getting that delay when shifting into reverse. I have 102k miles and never changed the ATF....I know, I know it's my own fault, but I was told it didn't need changing. It was only over the past few months that I learned from this group that I should have changed it! I had been told otherwise previously! So, don't tell me "I told you so!" Oh, woe is me! We're dead meat! T E D PS - |
|
Re: Furnace Tips?
On my 95, there was several l.e.d. indicator lights on the circuit
board and a sticker to explain their function. That might be of help. If you can't find the sticker: green=start cycle red=valve open slow green=bad electrode fast greeen= timed out I ended up cutting a hole in the forward side of the shroud and copying the sticker and pasting it where I could read it with the furnace intstalled. Now with a mirror I can troubleshoot it while it is installed (after removing the gray plastic interior panel). The Eurovan service training manual from Winnebago (I bought mine from Go Westy), has 18 pages on the furnace.....troubleshooting, wiring diagram, etc. You might want to pick one up. It covers everything Winnebago added to the van, in detail for servicing. Pete 95 EVC |
|
Furnace Tips?
adammentzell
I have 1997 EVC with a furnace that will not light. I have pulled it out and found that it is
getting propane, not clogged and the fan is running like a top. I follow the startup procedures and get no heat. Gowesty advised trying to put my hand over the intake on the outside while starting it. No luck. Any tips? I heard that some people have found the thermostat to be the problem??? Thanks, Adam |
|
Re: Dash temperature gauge
dave_king_ev
There is something wrong with this "good info" because it describes
all 3 sensors as 4-pin sensors, which would mean 12 pins total, and that would mean 6 devices. But, as far as I can tell (I have a '99 12 valve, and a paper Bentley, but there has been a discussion on vortex -- complete with wiring diagrams posted for the 24 valve motor -- and what I've seen is consistent with mine) there are just 5 devices: ECU gage fan afterrun pump AC cutout Various models -- the 5 cylinder, the 12 valve, the 24 valve -- have various locations and combinations for all the sensors involved (for example on some models the ECU and gage sensors are combined in a 4-pin device while on other models the ECU sensor is a 2-pin device) but all models use only those 5 devices, which would mean only 10 total pins. But, Dave's information shows 3 devices with 4 pins each which is 12 pins which means 6 devices. Something is not adding up. Does the 24 valve motor have a 6th device? If so, what is it? --- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@... wrote: coolant loss will be less that a cup.with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. |
|
Re: Dash temperature gauge
Good info.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
And when replacing the sensor, if you replace the cap on the coolant reservoir (after relieving any residual pressure), the amount of coolant loss will be less that a cup. Bob W. In a message dated 5/25/2008 12:33:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
davebo1896@... writes: And the new green d-shaped (oval) sensor did the trick. The dash gauge is now working. Another note, I think the AC was not working while this sensor was malfunctioning. It seems to be working now. I'm not sure if this is related. So to sum up ... There are two sensors under the engine in the thermostat housing. You'll have to drop the belly pan to get to these, they are on the driver's side. The 4-pin d-shaped (oval) is for the dash gauge and the fuel injection. The new sensor is green, the original one was black. the black ones are a known problem. The 4-pin square sensor next to the d-shaped sensor is for the fans. There is a 4-pin blue sensor in a hose near the top of the block that is for the after-run pumps. Each sensor is held in with a c-clip. Each sensor has a rubber o-ring. It is possible to swap out the sensors without draining the coolant system, but you need to be quick with the lower ones (make sure the coolant is cold, safety goggles and a closed mouth are advised) The o-ring does not always come out when you pull the sensor. Make sure it is accounted for before replacing the c-clip. Also be sure the sensor is under the c-clip not over it, or it will pop out and drain all your coolant. Sensors and o-rings are available from Steve at _ () Thanks All !! Dave ****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. () |
|
Re: 2000 camper winnebago has anyone removed the closet and rear area
Jim White
I know that's been done quite a few times because there are a number of fairly late model (2001?) EVCs running around in just that condition. Some Seattle-based coffee company turned EVCs into mobile cafes by ripping out the rear closet & storage compartments (keeping the appliances and water systems as you say) and installing an espresso machine in their place.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I saw one being sold after they were done with it and the coffee machine was removed, but don't recall any details apart from I knew I didn't want to deal with the project involved in reconstruction! Also while I was getting my furnace repaired I got to see what Wolfie (97 EVC) looks like with the plastic panel removed because you have to do that in order to access it. It was a bit of a jolt to see that since I sleep head-to-the-rear the cast iron burner box is just inches away. I suppose it could be considered a good thing because that way if something catches fire I'll notice right away... ;-) Jim & Wolfie resting at home after three weeks on the road. jaychee wrote: I have owed 4 volks campers. in the previous I removed the closet area leaving only the stove, sink, refrigerator component to enable a wider bed. in this model I am afraid to do so because of what I might disturb and because I will have to cut metal and wood to do so. has anyone already tried this? I want to keep the external shower hose of course. |
|
Re: Dash temperature gauge
dave_king_ev
Something is wrong with Dave's summary. A 4-wire sensor for the
after-run pump? Wny? All it needs is an on/off switch, which would mean two-wire, not four. Dave, are you looking at wiring diagrams or are you relying on catalog descriptions of the devices? --- In ev_update@..., "davebo1896" <davebo1896@...> wrote: fans. "fuel<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, injection and cooling fans" but that's wrong. |
to navigate to use esc to dismiss