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Did they have the vag-com or equipment to enter in your VIN info? If not that could be a/the issue. Also, I have a '95 5 speed & one shop told me that it needed a new ECU. It turned out that the vaccum line from the ecu was accidentally pinched (by the shop) when they replaced the plastic cover on the ecu. Once the vacuum line was correctly routed under the plastic cover it ran fine. Good luck.
Jim

dave_king_ev <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:
Two bad ECUs in a row? Find another shop that understands diagnostics.

--- In ev_update@..., "Matthew" <cartographics@...> wrote:

So I brought my EV weekender (5-speed) into a reputable shop to get

the clutch replaced

and they did a fine job. Although 10 days later it died on me. I

towed back to the shop and

they say it's the ECU. I found another ECU at a salvage yard and

although I couldn't read the

O/E numbers - it came from another 5-speed EV so I purchased it and

brought it in.

The shop said it was bad - so now I need to find a new one. The

folks at SIA would rebuild

mine for $300. Does anyone have any suggestions?
__
Matthew in Boring, OR

Jim Black
Cardiff, CA

Check a few messages back.

Look here:



--- In ev_update@..., "Florian" <fkahlert@...> wrote:

Check a few messages back. Someone had the same issue with the
weekender. I can only speak for the Weekender but there is NO AC

in

the rear. blue will get you room temperature at best. BUT when the
car is hot the exhaust warms up the air box under the car and at

that

point temp is hot no matter what you do.
It could be something more (like the heat exchanger open all the

time

but I would bet its the above.
Florian
03 MVWK

--- In ev_update@..., "turbocivicdx" <turbocivicdx@>

wrote:

Hello, I am trying to see if anyone can help pinpoint this

problem. I

went to look at a 02 EVC today ,and went through all the

equipments.

Here is one problem and I don't know if it is a simple repair or

an

extensive one. I don't have access to a Bentley manual. Anyways,

the

rear vent at passenger foot well is blowing hot air. I was

testing to

make sure the rear have air conditioner but apparently it

doesn't.

There are 2 controller in front (top). I made sure it is turn

towards

the blue (left), but as I turn on the fan (right) it blows out

hot air

and not cold.

I presumed the control knob for the rear is not working.

However I am

wondeing if that is controlled via cable or an electronic one.

If

electronic is it cheap to replace?

Thanks for the help.

It's a good idea to check the rear shock mounts too. I had my pass
rear upper back all they way out after 30 miles of tough dirt driving
near Aspen. Even P'tex Blue didn't hold them after that. I finally
bought a long breaker bar and must have put 300 ft-lbs torque.
Heaven help me when I replace the shocks.

On a related note, I am really struggling with whether to abandon the
Sachs-Boge's for Bilstein. I drive my EV GLS gently and rarely fully
laden, and have been very happy with the life and ride of the OEM's.
Any sales pitches for the Bilsteins (or Koni's for that matter).

Ariel Calonne
'99 GLS 97k
Santa Barbara, CA

--- In ev_update@..., "Garrett" <garrett.elists@...>
wrote:

Hello,

It's probably time to bring this thread back up again.

I just bought my 2002 EVC recently and installed new Bilstien

shocks

on all four corners. (Beautiful ride, by the way!) (I'll post a

more

thorough message on this later)

Of course, I remembered that folks were losing rear torsion bars

all

the time, so I checked the security of mine. Good thing too! ALL
fasteners were loose and two bolts were nearly ready to fall out.
And, this EVC was maintained *religiously* by a VW Stealership.
(Boneheads!)

I pulled all fasteners, cleaned them up, applied "Lock Tite" and
cranked down again. That's a solid fix now.

Let this be another "wake up call" for those with rear torsion

bars.

(2001-2003, I believe) Anyone can do this. Just slide under your
EV/EVC and check it out for yourself!

Best wishes to ALL,

Garrett
1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz"
2002 EVC, "Serenity"

Check a few messages back. Someone had the same issue with the
weekender. I can only speak for the Weekender but there is NO AC in
the rear. blue will get you room temperature at best. BUT when the
car is hot the exhaust warms up the air box under the car and at that
point temp is hot no matter what you do.
It could be something more (like the heat exchanger open all the time
but I would bet its the above.
Florian
03 MVWK

In a message dated 05/14/08 17:37:10 Central Daylight Time, turbocivicdx@... writes:
I presumed the control knob for the rear is not working. However I am
wondeing if that is controlled via cable or an electronic one. If
electronic is it cheap to replace?


If you're looking at an EVC, the Winnebago Camper, they don't have rear air conditioners.

The black floor vent just behind the front passenger seat is only a heater vent.
It is controlled from a multi-speed switch on the dash.

Although they only have front air conditioners, they do a realtively good job at cooling even people in the rear, and I live in Texas.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC

Hello, I am trying to see if anyone can help pinpoint this problem. I
went to look at a 02 EVC today ,and went through all the equipments.
Here is one problem and I don't know if it is a simple repair or an
extensive one. I don't have access to a Bentley manual. Anyways, the
rear vent at passenger foot well is blowing hot air. I was testing to
make sure the rear have air conditioner but apparently it doesn't.
There are 2 controller in front (top). I made sure it is turn towards
the blue (left), but as I turn on the fan (right) it blows out hot air
and not cold.

I presumed the control knob for the rear is not working. However I am
wondeing if that is controlled via cable or an electronic one. If
electronic is it cheap to replace?

Thanks for the help.

I had a '68 Bay Window that went by the name of:

"Mother Waldo Herman Turtle Weaver"

Don't ask me how I came up with that name, but boy did it roll off the
tongue...and fall on the ground.

Bren

When I joined this group I saw that a few of the folks had names for their
vans so I thought why not? My wife names her cars ---I came up with Warren
Z-Van (for the late great Warren Zevon).

Forest

--- Stephen Kramar <sgkramar@...> wrote:

I have a '93 MV (should be same body etc as weekender) and it has a
piece on the outside of the window. The mechanism came loose on my van
and I had to take it apart to tighten up the screw.

Just checked mine at lunchtime out in the parking lot. I guess something did change between '93
and '00 'cause mine has nothing on the outside of the slider windows.

Cinderella Coach as it carries my two princesses (daughters) and queen (wife) everywhere.

JW

Two bad ECUs in a row? Find another shop that understands diagnostics.

--- In ev_update@..., "Matthew" <cartographics@...> wrote:

So I brought my EV weekender (5-speed) into a reputable shop to get

the clutch replaced

and they did a fine job. Although 10 days later it died on me. I

towed back to the shop and

they say it's the ECU. I found another ECU at a salvage yard and

although I couldn't read the

O/E numbers - it came from another 5-speed EV so I purchased it and

brought it in.

The shop said it was bad - so now I need to find a new one. The

folks at SIA would rebuild

mine for $300. Does anyone have any suggestions?
__
Matthew in Boring, OR

2001 WV Weekender. All the standard features. Pop-top, bed upstairs
and downstairs. Upto 7 passengers.
72100 miles
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

see:


--David
feickd@...

Mine is "Dust" - as I peeled off "Winnebago Industries" from the front cargo area I decided to stop there. I have not taken Dust to Burningman to truly christen it, but eventually I will.

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

So I brought my EV weekender (5-speed) into a reputable shop to get the clutch replaced
and they did a fine job. Although 10 days later it died on me. I towed back to the shop and
they say it's the ECU. I found another ECU at a salvage yard and although I couldn't read the
O/E numbers - it came from another 5-speed EV so I purchased it and brought it in.

The shop said it was bad - so now I need to find a new one. The folks at SIA would rebuild
mine for $300. Does anyone have any suggestions?
__
Matthew in Boring, OR

LOL! That's a good one. Thanks for the laugh.

BD
'01 MV WK (which remains nameless)

I have a '93 MV (should be same body etc as weekender) and it has a
piece on the outside of the window. The mechanism came loose on my van
and I had to take it apart to tighten up the screw.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

I named my white Vanagon Vanna White back in '86. It's a great name
and her initials were proudly displayed in the grill!

Also just found the procedure online:


It starts on page 28-11. Bottom line though is that it's done with a warm engine (let the fans
cycle on/off once to be sure, even better if you go on a little drive beforehand), disconnect the
CTS after startup (not before), set timing while a helper is revving the engine between
2000-2500rpm. They go into some VAGCOM stuff to get some temperature readings from the ECU but
that's not necessary...if the cooling fans have cycled on/off you're good.

--- gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

Finally figured out it had to do with the CTS being disconnected in the procedure either before
or after the engine was running. (Sorry I don't remember which...I have it written down in my

mk2 manual though at home, I could look there later if you need me to.)

aha I found it in an old post of mine...disconnect the CTS after starting the engine, not before.

FWIW, this was the Bentley instructions (with a minor modification from me) for my Mk2...Eurovan
should be similar as far as I know:

Bentley #1: On cars with manual transmission, use a 27mm hex wrench to remove the plastic plug
from the timing check hole at the top of the transaxle bellhousing.

Bentley #2: With the ignition off, connect a tachometer and timing light to the battery + and to
the coil negative terminal 1.

Bentley #3: Disconnect the harness connector to the coolant temperature sensor as shown.

(but gti_matt interjects and says do #3 disconnect after the car started and warmed up in step
#4...doesn't work right otherwise...and if you have a CEL it will throw a CEL light that'll need
to be cleared but this is normal for disconnecting the CTS)

Bentley #4: Start the engine and allow it to fully warm up. Oil temperature should be at least
176F. Radiator fan should cycle on and off at least once indicating that the engine is up to
normal operating temperature.

Bentley #5: Briefly raise the engine speed to about 2100rpm and let it return to idle. Repeat 3 or
4 times.

Bentley #6: With the engine running between 2000 and 2500rpm, aim the timing light at the timing
check hole in the transaxle bellhousing. The timing mark on the flywheel should appear adjacent to
the pointer in the hole as shown.

--- newfield4u <newfield@...> wrote:

I timed at about 750 rpm at the btdc mark. The mark on the flywheel was skipping around
some, does that mean that the distributor is worn out?

I don't think so. My Mk2 w/Digifant did the same thing when you looked at the mark at idle.
However I'm 99.999% sure the correct way to time a Digifant VW is with the engine warm, at about
2500rpm, coolant temp sensor unplugged, and IIRC the PCV hose also disconnected and plugged. This
all puts the ECU in learning/adjustment mode for setting the timing. Check it out here:


It doesn't say so either but when disconnecting the coolant temperature sensor, there is a right
way and a wrong way. One of them was disconnecting after the engine was already running, the
other was disconnecting before starting the engine. I forget which is the right way but it does
make a difference. If it doesn't work out one way (after you hook everything back up and the car
runs like crap), try the other way. I remember when timing my mk2 that I did it like 4 times and
every time afterwards the car wouldn't rev past 2200rpm because the timing was so messed up.
Finally figured out it had to do with the CTS being disconnected in the procedure either before or
after the engine was running. (Sorry I don't remember which...I have it written down in my mk2
manual though at home, I could look there later if you need me to.)