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Re: 1999 EV refuses to start - seems to be flooded
I would guess a leaky injector is allowing the fuel to drain to your intake until the system runs out of fuel pressure. A slow leak isn't going to have a huge impact on performance because so little can leak out between firings, but will allow quite a bit to leak out over 15 mins turned off. And the fuel in the intake when it's not running could easily find a way out to creat a gas smell.
Sam |
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1999 EV refuses to start - seems to be flooded
Great forum and thank you all in advance for info. I have a 1999 Eurovan with about 115,000 miles (auto transmission).? Just took it on a tour around SW CO - lots of big mountain passes.? It ran great!? Except on two occasions, it refused to start up after sitting for a short amount of time.? It acts like it's "flooded" - but happens on first turn of key.? I'm not a mechanic so I'm not sure my description is accurate, but that's how I would describe it ... I waited about five minutes and tried again.? Starts right up. Also, sometimes we can smell exhaust/gas in the car.? Wondering if the two could be related? Thanks again! Kim |
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Re: FLASH! VW introduces a new Campervan, the California
I know how dangerous falso hope can be, but it looks like the chicken tax may finally be going away:
? |
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Re: 1997 Eurovan Camper for Sale in Washington
Ron, Follow the links and you'll find your prize...:) On Mon, Jun 29, 2015 at 5:03 AM, habanero144@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote:
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Transmission slow to shift into drive. Occasional hard 1-2 shift.
Hi all, First of all thanks to all of you for this group. It continues to be a great source of information for me learning my way around Eurovans. ? I know transmissions are a frequent topic and I have read most of the archives and files section documents. ? I'm having some specific symptoms and am wondering if anyone else has had the same. Some initial notes: - It's a 2000 eurovan with ~140k miles. I assume transmission is original but not sure (few records from prior owner). - I'm familiar with the transmission fluid change procedure and have done it several times (I had a 1999 Eurovan for several years before I recently sold it and then shortly thereafter bought another one with a much nicer body and interior). - I have changed fluid and filter in this one twice after I bought it several months ago (twice to get more of the old fluid out). - I do overfill a bit, level the van, shift through all gears, and then drain to even at ~40C transmission temp while running.? - no extra AT cooler. Symptoms (two main ones and one 'sorta' one): - One symptom is occasional hard 1-2 shifts under no load (like coasting down a hill). This only happens maybe 20% of the time when going downhill. It may have happened once or twice in going from 2-3 but so rare that I'm not even sure it happened (I try to pay attention). New fluid and transmission 'reset' procedure doesn't seem to affect it (but again it doesn't happen all of the time). - Other symptom is delay in getting into drive from park. ?It's as if there's not enough pressure to make the shift happen. ?I can get it to shift by giving it a bit of gas but giving it a lot more gas makes the shift into drive harder. - No symptoms when shifting under load (climbing a hill or accelerating).? - Third symptom is it seems to not want to upshift when it should sometimes. ?i.e. low load and ready to go to 3rd or OD but stays in lower gear longer than needed. ?Again like it can't get enough pressure to force the shift. ?It does shift eventually.? Wanting to avoid letting a problem grow over time (and not wanting to purchase transmissions and parts in blind fear), I'm wondering if my description fits any problems any of you have had and what if anything resolved it (i.e. new valve body, new controller, new wire harness, new transmission, solenoid adjustment by a qualified shop, etc.).? Thanks again to all who participate on this list - I hope sometime to repay some of the great VW karma here! Regards, Todd? |
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Norcold Door Cosmetic
Im getting to recolor the interior of my 95 EVC and was looking at the fridge door. Its started to bubble / bulge on the face of the door. I was thinking about taking a heat gun to it and attempt to flatten it out again, but was wondering if anyone has attempted to do this before, or has anyone been able to remove the grey plastic front from the front of the door and replace it with another material?
Thanks |
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Re: Easy fix of my stalling '93 Eurovan
Nice results! ?I had a similar issue on my long gone 1993 MV that I never did fix and wonder if that was the problem. ?I've learned most of my abilities fixing cars from doing the work myself so your not alone. Not sure if I know why that stall was worse after highway driving for you. ?In my case it was generally worse with big changes in the throttle position and I found if I modulated the pedal from high speed the engine was less likely to stall. ?I believe ?the vacuum level is highest with the throttle closed so a leak will probably have more of an impact as the engine tried to adjust the mixture to compensate. By the way, my fix was to trade the '93 in on a new '03 :-) although it was more because rust had taken hold and the cost to do the repairs was too high. I do though miss the '93's manual transmission and more bus like steering wheel. ?
Ron '03 MV approaching 150k miles Emerald Green |
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Re: Vitrifrigo C60i Fan Upgrade
Did the same upgrade on my Truckfridge 65, much quieter, If anyone is looking for another reason to upgrade to an electric fridge here's one: it's so easy to remove the fridge. Nothing like the PITA with the norcold aka nevercold. 4 screws and it pulls straight out like butter. On Sun, Jun 28, 2015 at 11:56 AM, Michael Diehr md03@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote:
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Vitrifrigo C60i Fan Upgrade
I really like my Vitrifrigo C60i as a replacement for the Norcold. My only real complaint with the C60i is the noise, which as it happens comes not from the compressor but rather from the cheap 120mm computer fan it's built with.
Fortunately it's easy to upgrade to a quieter unit, and I've documented this here: |
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Re: EVC Roof Vent/Skylight Solutions
Joshua Frances
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On Jun 28, 2015, at 11:02 AM, Michael Diehr md03@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote:
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Re: EVC Roof Vent/Skylight Solutions
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOn Jun 28, 2015, at 6:42 AM, rjbedell@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote:Oh,yes I have measured - many times before I bought my EVC. ? I just took an accurate measurement, and the MaxxFan when fully closed is 4.75" above the roof at its highest point (which is 20" back from the front of the roof). ? Since the stock vent is not flush, the net increase in height is less than 4.75" but that still sounds like it's not going to work for you. Time for a new house? :-) |
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Re: Sam's Norcold fix
Hi t.everett@..., I only removed the panel above the fridge.? I was familiar with the layout of the parts mounted on top of the Norcold.?This made installing Sam's mod very easy.? [Several months ago I removed my fridge to replace its burner, thermocouple, igniter and re-lighter because the flame in my fridge?would not stay lit.??While the problem was with the re-lighter module, I decided to replace all of these parts).] If you haven't worked on your Norcold before, Sam's instructions are excellent.? The only step that?could potentially present confusion is the second one where you?disconnect the red wire from Terminal T1 on the re-lighter module.? There is another nearly identical red wire to the upper left of?Terminal T1 and it is difficult to see the labeling on the re-lighter module when not removing the fridge.? So the correct red wire to disconnect is the one on the right (as indicated in the schematic that Sam includes in his instructions). Hope that this helps. Rick |
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David