开云体育

Hi Jim,

What have they done to test the ECU? There are a number of things
that can go wrong. I had a bunch of trouble with my ignition and
after many hours and rounds of testing I think the problem was bad
grounds, which caused the ECM to fail (twice, actually).

Have them double check the vacuum hose connection to the ECU and the
ECU wiring, in particular the grounds. One of the grounds in the ECU
wiring harness is to the engine block, could it have been detached
when they did the clutch and not put back? This is wire #29, Brown
with black stripe. There are 2 other grounds as well.

There's a document in the files section of the EV_update yahoogroup on
testing the ignition in 93 EV's. Go through these tests and see if
you find a "smoking gun".

Check for trigger signal in the low voltage wires to the coil, if
there is a signal there the ECM should be OK. The coil is a common
failure point in these EV's, according to the list.

If you do a search for stuff posted by "imothers_2000" you'll find a
bunch of questions and answers going back almost a year on this... the
first breakdown was just about a year ago now.

$300 for a rebuild is a good price. The only place I found who seemed
like they could rebuild mine wanted $500. Be cautious with rebuilders
- ask questions. I found out that many can't handle the German stuff,
they focus on US and Japanese units. It all sounded good on the phone
until I asked a few detailed questions.

Drop me a note if you need more info, I have more experience in this
area than I ever wanted!

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5 Sp
Vancouver, Canada



--- In ev_update@..., jim blac<cvu1995@...> wrote:

Did they have the vag-com or equipment to enter in your VIN info?

If not that could be a/the issue. Also, I have a '95 5 speed & one
shop told me that it needed a new ECU. It turned out that the vaccum
line from the ecu was accidentally pinched (by the shop) when they
replaced the plastic cover on the ecu. Once the vacuum line was
correctly routed under the plastic cover it ran fine. Good luck.

Jim

dave_king_ev <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:
Two bad ECUs in a row? Find another shop that understands

diagnostics.

--- In ev_update@..., "Matthew" <cartographics@> wrote:

So I brought my EV weekender (5-speed) into a reputable shop to get

the clutch replaced

and they did a fine job. Although 10 days later it died on me. I

towed back to the shop and

they say it's the ECU. I found another ECU at a salvage yard and

although I couldn't read the

O/E numbers - it came from another 5-speed EV so I purchased it and

brought it in.

The shop said it was bad - so now I need to find a new one. The

folks at SIA would rebuild

mine for $300. Does anyone have any suggestions?
__
Matthew in Boring, OR

Jim Black
Cardiff, CA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I purchased a Winnebago rear hatch screen from a dealer's old stock.
The screen is new, but there are no instructions (or snaps). It
shouldn't be too hard to buy some snaps and manually locate them, but
if anyone has the instructions and would like to post them in the files
or e-mail them to me, it would be a helpful starting point.

I did find some photos/suggestions in the "Links" section, and these
will probably be good enough. I gather that the instructions may not
be that acurate.

Regards,
Duane
2000 EVC

Hi,

Does anyone know what the resistance ranges should be for the coolant
temp sensor (blue, 2 wire to ECM) and the Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor
on an early '93 (mfr 10/92) Eurovan? When cold / warm / hot?

My EV failed the local emissions test, seems like either of these
sensors are potential culprits, with the blue coolant temp sensor more
likely.

Should I get a Vag-Com? Or do it by guesswork in steps? Starting
with the cheapest first, I could add a resistor to the IAT circuit and
replace the Coolant Temp Sensor fairly cheaply, then try the test
again to see what happens. I think I have the early '93 IAT which is
almost $90... at that price I'd rather not be guessing when ordering
parts!

thanks,

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

I have a '95 EVC that I am obviously just learning to use. Thanks for
the info Kent!

Alon :)

--- In ev_update@..., "KG KIRKLEY" <kgkirkley@...> wrote:

In a message dated 05/14/08 19:00:55 Central Daylight Time,

alonfw@... writes:

So I ran my fridge on DC for about 4 hours today, the fins were cool,
but the fridge was not cold yet... should I expect better?

Alon :)
On DC??

What vehicle do you have?

If it's an EVC, the DC mode will only maintain the fridge which is

already cold.

The DC mode is used primarily while driving to keep the already cold

fridge cold.

In DC mode, without the engine running and recharging it, even a

brand new fully charged coach battery will only cool the fridge for a
couple of hours.

If I can't plug into a 110v source, I use propane to cool the fridge.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey Michael,

The fuel gauge and temp. gauge can read wrong due to problems with the
Voltage Regulator - I think some of the other replies have mentioned
that. It is a common problem.

I would be more worried about the tach! It does not rely on the
voltage regulator; it gets a signal from the ECM. When I was
struggling with no start/poor start problems on my EV, I also had
intermittent tach problems. I am 99% sure the issues were caused by a
bad ground in the ECU wiring harness. There are three different
grounds, and one of mine (wire #13, brown with white stripe) had a
4,000-ohm resistance to ground. I fixed it, but too late - the ECM
had quit, and these are not cheap or easy to find.

Since replacing the ECM and fixing the ground about a month ago, the
tach has been 100% fine and my EV always starts & runs.

I can't help with the headliner as my van is a weekender pop-top so
that part is different...

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

I think the Bentley is pretty much the only option. I got mine on CD
from Steve at Europarts_SD. The local places in Vancouver, Canada
wanted 2x the price or worse. Having the manual has probably saved me
$100's already.

Be sure to run the "check web for updates" option - I found some
"bugs" were fixed by doing that. I print off the sections I need
before working on the van... I can get them as dirty as I want, it
doesn't matter!

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp


--- In ev_update@..., "Stephen Kramar" <sgkramar@...> wrote:

AFAIK, Bentley is the the only real option. I have both the book
version (only covers 1992-1999) and the CD version (covers through
2003). I prefer the book because I keep it on the shelf in the garage
and can refer to what I need quickly. The CD requires cleaning hands,
booting up laptop, etc. Though it does have search capability and
better troubleshooting (IMHO).



On 5/13/08, turbocivicdx <turbocivicdx@...> wrote:

I presume it is the Bentley. When I was tinkering with air cool

VW, the

bentley was the shop manual of choice. Is there any other
recommendations and also where would be the cheapest place to order
them?

Are the CD I see posted on the web and on ebay any good?

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

Hi,

I remember looking at a 93MV (non pop-top, actually) where the locking
mechanism was missing from the sliding window in the sliding door.
There was about a ?" round hole in the glass for the lock mechanism.

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

--- In ev_update@..., "Stephen Kramar" <sgkramar@...> wrote:

I have a '93 MV (should be same body etc as weekender) and it has a
piece on the outside of the window. The mechanism came loose on my van
and I had to take it apart to tighten up the screw.



On 5/14/08, gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

--- Stephen Kramar <sgkramar@...> wrote:

IIRC, the window mechanism for the sliding door does not glue on.
There are two parts: one on the outside and one on the inside and
there is a screw that goes through the glass that holds the two parts
together.

IIRC on my '00 (so I guess the '93 might be different) there is

nothing

going through the glass.
It's all smooth on the outside.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

Here is another voltmeter from GoWesty:



It is the same meter that someone posted as availble from a few
different solar power companies, but the Go Westy price is a lot
better.


Cheers,
Duane
2000 EVC

--- In ev_update@..., "Alain gravel" <alain.gravel@...>
wrote:

Here is the information for a voltmeter that you can install in the
lighter plug or direct on the 12V line to verify the status of your
battery



Bob or Angelica
Schumacher Electric. Corp.
801 Business Center Dr.
Mt . Prospect Il. 60056
PHONE 847-385-1600 Ext-214
FAX 847-298-1698

--- kittiecatwoof <kittiecatwoof@...> wrote:

I have a 2002 eurovan can't get the tires that came on it. What do I do?
Tire Rack suggested Dunlop sport sp200E. What do the experts say?
HELP!!!!!!!!

If they're the right size and load rating, use them.

There is no valve on the heater hoses that go to that core on my '97 EVC, so
it always has hot air coming out if you turn the fan on. Insulating the
exhaust won't help. You can make an in-line valve out of copper and brass
plumbing parts and install it in the hose by the heater (lower hose) if you
want to cut off the flow in summer. But that will require you to get under
the van to turn it on and off twice a year!



Stuart





_____

Hello, I am trying to see if anyone can help pinpoint this problem. I
went to look at a 02 EVC today ,and went through all the equipments.
Here is one problem and I don't know if it is a simple repair or an
extensive one. I don't have access to a Bentley manual. Anyways, the
rear vent at passenger foot well is blowing hot air. I was testing to
make sure the rear have air conditioner but apparently it doesn't.
There are 2 controller in front (top). I made sure it is turn towards
the blue (left), but as I turn on the fan (right) it blows out hot air
and not cold.

I presumed the control knob for the rear is not working. However I am
wondeing if that is controlled via cable or an electronic one. If
electronic is it cheap to replace?

Thanks for the help.

In a message dated 05/14/08 19:00:55 Central Daylight Time, alonfw@... writes:
So I ran my fridge on DC for about 4 hours today, the fins were cool,
but the fridge was not cold yet... should I expect better?

Alon :)
On DC??

What vehicle do you have?

If it's an EVC, the DC mode will only maintain the fridge which is already cold.
The DC mode is used primarily while driving to keep the already cold fridge cold.
In DC mode, without the engine running and recharging it, even a brand new fully charged coach battery will only cool the fridge for a couple of hours.

If I can't plug into a 110v source, I use propane to cool the fridge.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC

Not only is there no rear AC in the ECV, that vent duct passes right next to the exhaust pipe so it will get extra warm!

There was a tip in the Files section on how to insulate the duct but I don't see it right now.

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

Thanks to everyone for the quick responds. I feel much better now
because I really like the EVC I went to look at. Now comes the
bargaining part that I hate.

In a message dated 5/14/08 10:44:35 PM, alonfw@... writes:

I have a '95 EVC that I am obviously just learning to use.? Thanks for
the info Kent!

Alon :)

I thought so.
Before I intend to leave with a cold fridge, I'll plug in the shoreline
overnight and turn the dial to about the 7 o'clock position. By morning the fridge
will be between 30 and 40 degrees.

Camping and some RV stores carry a really neat little fan to circulate the
air inside the fridge.
It runs for weeks on just two D size batteries. I place it below the cooling
fins.

I also place drink cans on the bottom with 3-4, 'molded for cans' blue ice
that has been in the freezer. They will keep the entire fridge cool even if
power should fail.

While highway driving I switch the fridge to DC, just to maintain the cool.

Once at my destination, I'll either plug into a 110v source or run the fridge
on propane.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC



****
Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.

()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have a 2002 eurovan can't get the tires that came on it. What do I do?
Tire Rack suggested Dunlop sport sp200E. What do the experts say?
HELP!!!!!!!!

Big Green Love Machine!...

So I ran my fridge on DC for about 4 hours today, the fins were cool,
but the fridge was not cold yet... should I expect better?

Alon :)

Mike,

Did you ever get a measurement on the rear view mirror? I need it
also as I bought mine with the rear view mirror on the floor :)

Alon

Our '95 camper is Honu, the hawaiian word for turtle, 'cause we carry a home on our back and move pretty slowly up those mountain grades. Aloha!
Jim

Bren Smith <bren@...> wrote:
I had a '68 Bay Window that went by the name of:

"Mother Waldo Herman Turtle Weaver"

Don't ask me how I came up with that name, but boy did it roll off the
tongue...and fall on the ground.

Bren

On Wed, May 14, 2008 at 1:36 PM, <jrwetz@...> wrote:

Cinderella Coach as it carries my two princesses (daughters) and queen
(wife) everywhere.

JW

-------------- Original message --------------
From: David Richoux <tubaman@...>
Mine is "Dust" - as I peeled off "Winnebago Industries" from the
front cargo area I decided to stop there. I have not taken Dust to
Burningman to truly christen it, but eventually I will.

Jim Black
Cardiff, CA

Did they have the vag-com or equipment to enter in your VIN info? If not that could be a/the issue. Also, I have a '95 5 speed & one shop told me that it needed a new ECU. It turned out that the vaccum line from the ecu was accidentally pinched (by the shop) when they replaced the plastic cover on the ecu. Once the vacuum line was correctly routed under the plastic cover it ran fine. Good luck.
Jim

dave_king_ev <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:
Two bad ECUs in a row? Find another shop that understands diagnostics.

--- In ev_update@..., "Matthew" <cartographics@...> wrote:

So I brought my EV weekender (5-speed) into a reputable shop to get

the clutch replaced

and they did a fine job. Although 10 days later it died on me. I

towed back to the shop and

they say it's the ECU. I found another ECU at a salvage yard and

although I couldn't read the

O/E numbers - it came from another 5-speed EV so I purchased it and

brought it in.

The shop said it was bad - so now I need to find a new one. The

folks at SIA would rebuild

mine for $300. Does anyone have any suggestions?
__
Matthew in Boring, OR

Jim Black
Cardiff, CA